SupraChrgd82

Are there any overdrive gears or other mods to improve steering radius for the CFX chassis?

I don't believe the Hilux and Bruiser parts would be easily interchangeable. The Bruiser uses a dedicated molded box for the servos that integrates the servo mount with the box' thus requiring a full conversion to the Bruiser components. The Bruiser also has stamped steel chassis rails whereas the Hilux has solid aluminum chassis rails and different cross braces. I am by no means saying it can't be done, it just wouldn't be a direct bolt-on and could trigger additional changes to the chassis to make everything mate up. Is your purpose to restore the vehicle, or to have a runner? Regarding the part for sale, another member may be willing to assist in getting it mailed to you.

If you don’t mind posting, I’d like to hear about any changes to the vehicles handling after swapping to the diff.

Given the rugged chassis and identical wheels all around, I am inclined to say that it is an amusement park RC vehicle.

Not much value in those anymore. There’s a re-re Bruiser and since the advent of OEM crawler ladder frames the scale builders don’t need ‘em. The only market left is the few whom are restoring a vintage Bruiser.

In your case, it looks to have been built meticulously in accordance with the manual. It's likely that the trans is not in need of any service. You may be able to feed it some Tamiya grease through the open ports and enjoy an occasional jaunt through your yard as it sits. Does the trans feel smooth and shift as it should? If so, that would be an indicator as to it's condition. I wish I could offer more detail on the trans. My Bruiser has an Engle single speed, and the only other 3-speed I had was the High Lift version. If your confident in rebuilding and it gives piece of mind. there is no harm with servicing it.

I use a 3PV for 9 vehicles (buggy, touring, crawler) and have zero qualms about reliability and support. It is a marvelous TX. My one complaint is related to the 3rd channel, which is my own shortcoming for not thinking ahead. The 3rd channel is a 2 position switch that requires operation with the steering hand. Now that I am deeper into crawlers, I desire a momentary contact button beneath the throttle hand thumb (to operate a dig, 3 speed transmission, or light controller). Again, it's my bad for not having the foresight to anticipate that preference. For the basic 2 channel operations (forward/reverse, left/right), there is no way you can go wrong with a 3PV. Also note that the T-3PV has telemetry; it is a fine luxury to see the battery voltage in the car in addition to the TX.

What sort of driving do you plan on doing and what continent do you reside? For instance, if drifting you may wish to look for something gyro capable, for crawling something dig/4ws capable, scale cars something LED light capable, etc. It really boils down to whether you want the 3rd+ channel and what button/swich the TX has to actuate that 3rd channel. Regarding your location, we find that some brands have limited availability and product support in some regions.

Yes, sir, purchased from Pargu RC several years ago.

I believe our Scorpions are distant relatives. Needless to say, it looks great!

Stunning! Even the sponsor decals are period correct and pertinent to Vee-Dub parts manufacturers.

It looks 99% complete, and in fantastic condition. I suggest that you find a copy of the manual and acquire the little bits such as the tranny seal plugs & period-correct TX and either display the lot or run it very gently so as not to damage or scratch it. You're very fortunate to have found one in that condition. Even the axles are glossy, not having oxidized from grubby hands touching the raw aluminum. Very nice.

My buddy from Melbourne says, “Australia is just the convicted. The real criminals are still back in Britain.”

I dare not post pictures, but I am a sucker for the Lego Architecture and Ferrari kits. My son has 2 x 35 gallon Rubbermaid tubs filled with Lego inherited from his big sister. We have no qualms about dumping them all over the floor to spend hours building.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/duratrax-3-nylon-body-post-black-2-dtxc2613/p642236?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5--xys679gIV7nxvBB3k5QheEAQYAiABEgLsRPD_BwE

To open the opportunity for 2.2 wheels and tires, there's a few options; Purchase Super Hornet wheels and rear drive adapters: https://www.tamiyaclub.com/modalpic.asp?img=14.jpg Purchase the hex conversion kit (trash the front adapters) and use any 2wd buggy wheels that accept 5x11x4 bearirgs: 12mm HEX Adapter 4pcs for TAMIYA Grasshopper/Hornet/Frog/Wild One/Grasshopper 2 | eBay

Trendy yellow grill lights for the Knightrunner

I’ll vouch for ABC Hobby. I purchased the BRE 510 for a M-chassis last year and a 510 in standard 1/10 touring for a friend for Christmas. The body details are excellent. Decal ink seems a bit thin/transparent, but is definitely acceptable. I believe the Lexan grade they use can become brittle if left outdoors, more so than the big name companies (HPI, ProLine, Protoform, etc). If Tamiya quality is a 10, I rate ‘em 8.5. However, I give ‘em a 10 for producing the all the classic JDM cars that would otherwise be impossible to acquire.

Happy birthday, Saito2

Kyosho Perfex electronics…she’s a bit dusty as this one is a shelf queen Sidewinder.

Tentatively finished the Knightrunner. Wiring and connectors are in place, servo centered, ESC programmed, EPA’s set. Contemplating LED lights and light buckets from Knight Customs…

I really like #2. It has great contrasting colors that accent the body lines well. A perfect blend of retro and modern style.

99% done with the Knightrunner. Now to install the RX and solder a connector to the ESC.