SupraChrgd82
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Posts posted by SupraChrgd82
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Could be any number if things;
Compressed O-ring/seals, incompatible damper oil, stiff O-rings, binding shafts or pistons, dirt, chafed shafts. I’m betting on the O-rngs around the shaft. If they become swollen from incompatible oil or if they are compressed in any way, oil is squeezed out of the sealing zone and they bind on the shaft.
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Agreed. I think the only way I could see appeal in the mini market is if the manufacturers banded together and re-re’d the classics collectively in the same scale. I’d settle for a display of 1/16 Javelins, RC-10s, JR-X2s, etc. Of course the preference would be a shelf filled with 1/10 cars. Most certainly not a 1/24 RC-10, 1/16 JR-X2, 1/10 Optima, 1/18 Inferno…..Even a gathering of buddies for a friendly retro race yields a field of David & Goliath contenders.
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That sounds about right. Unless you buy a secondhand rig, $500-800 is about what a finely dialed crawler will cost. RTR’s are largely garbage with atrocious electronics and floppy plastic links.
Shop around for sales and clearance kits if you want to buy a new one. Be wary of chinesium on Amazon.
Comparatively, it’s less expensive than most other genres of the hobby. You wont be crashing into curbs at 50mph and routinely replacing A-arms. Low speed tumbles rarely break anything.
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I used to think grease is grease. I took my rebuilt Hornet out of the closet not long ago and found that the grease has caused the plastic gearbox housing to crumble. Lesson learned, use Tamiya grease. It is presumably selected so as not to cause Tamiya parts to deteriorate.
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Practice driving first. Learn about your driving style and how you evolve, then make changes to the car to better suit our style. Some drivers like understeer, some like a loose rear end, some like 4 wheel slide, some like fast turn-in, some make up time in the corners...it varies by the individual. You'll struggle if you set your car up for a style that does not suit you.
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Do visit a Dog Haus restaurant and get a “Hangover” burger.
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It is very tempting to create a replica of the ‘84 kit. It’s a great looking kit that sounds like a fun ride. Alberto has a good (read “honest”) review of the original. I see myself loving the build and first few runs, then shelving it in disappointment. But it is such a great lookin’ RC that my inner 8 year old still yearns for….
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Being that you are roughly on the same continent as where Tamiya parts are produced, I don’t expect that there is anything profound to be had from the Tamiya lineup in Cali. There is a good selection of hobby shops to visit. Head south to Orange County and sales tax is slightly less which takes the edge off large purchases. Some of the hobby shops that have been around for decades occasionally have Tamiya NOS parts kicking around. Maybe win a few ebay auctions or Craigslist sales to avoid shipping.
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My other addiction
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Very coveted and collectible in the US. They made top shelf mods in the mid-80’s. That’s a valuable chassis as it has both front and rear arms.
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My experience with “clones” is that they look identical enough that one would assume there is parts compatibility between the clone and name brand original. Such is not the case, as there are small design differences and a few millimeters difference in size. Motor mounts may be different enough that pinions don’t line up, gears don’t mesh, axles are different lenghths or are missing machined steps to retain bearings, A-arms have different bulkhead widths, fasteners are different diameters. I think they do this to skirt patent laws. Ultimately you are left with a car that has zero parts support.
My advice is to steer clear of the clones and limit chinesium purchases to select upgrade parts for a real name brand article. Buy thigs like Axial aluminum hubs or Axial link kits, but never a whole clone vehicle kit.
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Still scratching the other retro itch. Hope to return to RC soon.
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Try setting up a small track and driving it, oval, figure-8, or something a little more complex. It will add a new perspective to understanding handling and throttle control. As you rope in your friends, it becomes quite exhilarating.
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Well, shoot, I was about to be disappointed that I missed it.
Last year they combined it with some sort of RV show but at least there were some big names.
Hope it comes back to something resembling what it was years ago.
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Wider wheel hexes will help move the wheels out and away from the dampers. I believe the CC-02 comes with 5mm hexes. A 6 or 7mm hex should do the job without being too wide to get a wheel nut on.
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Yup. The rear is wider than the front.
I had an OG Bruiser rear narrowed by thus guy about 20 years ago.
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On 2/16/2023 at 9:58 AM, bRIBEGuy said:
Zaskar needs to be the polished version, IMO... Though hard to find them not riddled in cracks! Nice build!
Polished aluminum sucks - oxidizes and pits too easily.
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18 minutes ago, clobbo said:
mmmm.. are you on Retrobike?
Tough isn't it.. I've got that "problem" too, but having built up two Kona's I think I'll take a break from it and focus on RC.
Yes, and yes. You and I seem to bounce back and forth between the two hobbies/forums, yeah.
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Still scratching my other vintage itch
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$5-800 for a beater, $2400-ish for one built and in fine condition, $3800-4200 for NIB
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On 1/15/2023 at 9:06 AM, gkatz said:
Hi all;
for someone who is the occasional driver, is it worth moving to LIPO?
it seems like its a hassle charging and discharging, low voltage cutoffs (i am suprt confused).
I am used to NiMH where I dont really care about this stuff. are this disclaimers for real? i mean, I dont want to work for the battery i want the battery to work for me
it would be nice to bump us the run time of the car though...
thanks in advance
My experience -
Most non-competition Tamiya kits are sprung for NiMH or LiFe packs. Lightweight LiPo leave the car feeling stiff and prone to loose handling on packed dirt or asphalt.
In crawlers, the heavy NiMH packs add needed weight and forward weight bias. They are big and restrict me from using forward motor trannys, but it’s not a detriment to my rigs.I occasionally drive a makeshift parking lot track with friends. They run LiPo (5000 mah) and I run NiMH (3000 mah). They hit low voltage cut off within minutes of my battery being completely drained. My car is not “punchy” at all, but being smooth and steady suits my driving style. My friend’s cars are punchy enough to break traction at will.
I leave all 22 on my NiMH packs stored with a full charge. I can drive any RC at will with zero time needed to plan, prep, charge or store batteries. Minimal safety precautions are needed in charging areas, and zero regard is given to battery voltage at any stage of use.
I’m obviously a proponent of NiMH…
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Black wires on the ESC and servo facing the outside edge of the receiver? ESC channel 2, servo channel 1?
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3PV…I use the same radio. Though that complicates the troubleshooting process, it is still highly reliable paired to the TBLE02.
First confirm that the radio is set to S-FHSS for the R203Gf and not T-FHSS for the telemetry models.
Cost of crawling
in General discussions
Posted
I’d suggest an Element Builder’s Kit I. The drivetrain and dampers are head and shoulders above Axial in terms of smoothness. Steel tranny gears add good weight and durability as do stainless links. A little overdrive makes for improved turning radius. Aftermarket offers endless parts support.
A Hobbywing 2in1 is low maintenance and inexpensive.
Traxxas is out for ethical reasons. Cross RC is just plain weird. RC4WD is too scalerish.
My buddies and I have found more enjoyment from crawlers than buggies or touring cars. They go everywhere from local parks, camping trips, hiking trails, river beds, backyards….the fun extends into cutting trails, building obstacles and hunting down new places to drive. No more playing in a pre-made parking lot. Everything is now your playground.