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SupraChrgd82

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Posts posted by SupraChrgd82


  1. Practice driving first.  Learn about your driving style and how you evolve, then make changes to the car to better suit our style.  Some drivers like understeer, some like a loose rear end, some like 4 wheel slide, some like fast turn-in, some make up time in the corners...it varies by the individual.  You'll struggle if you set your car up for a style that does not suit you.   

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  2. It is very tempting to create a replica of the ‘84 kit. It’s a great looking kit that sounds like a fun ride.  Alberto has a good (read “honest”) review of the original. I see myself loving the build and first few runs, then shelving it in disappointment.  But it is such a great lookin’ RC that my inner 8 year old still yearns for….

     

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  3. Being that you are roughly on the same continent as where Tamiya parts are produced, I don’t expect that there is anything profound to be had from the Tamiya lineup in Cali. There is a good selection of hobby shops to visit.  Head south to Orange County and sales tax is slightly less which takes the edge off large purchases.  Some of the hobby shops that have been around for decades occasionally have Tamiya NOS parts kicking around. Maybe win a few ebay auctions or Craigslist sales to avoid shipping.

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  4. My experience with “clones” is that they look identical enough that one would assume there is parts compatibility between the clone and name brand original.  Such is not the case, as there are small design differences and a few millimeters difference in size.  Motor mounts may be different enough that pinions don’t line up, gears don’t mesh, axles are different lenghths or are missing machined steps to retain bearings, A-arms have different bulkhead widths, fasteners are different diameters. I think they do this to skirt patent laws. Ultimately you are left with a car that has zero parts support.  
     

    My advice is to steer clear of the clones and limit chinesium purchases to select upgrade parts for a real name brand article.   Buy thigs like Axial aluminum hubs or Axial link kits, but never a whole clone vehicle kit.

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  5. 18 minutes ago, clobbo said:

    mmmm.. are you on Retrobike?

    Tough isn't it.. I've got that "problem" too, but having built up two Kona's I think I'll take a break from it and focus on RC.

    Yes, and yes.  You and I seem to bounce back and forth between the two hobbies/forums, yeah.  


  6. On 1/15/2023 at 9:06 AM, gkatz said:

    Hi all;

    for someone who is the occasional driver, is it worth moving to LIPO?

    it seems like its a hassle charging and discharging, low voltage cutoffs (i am suprt confused).

    I am used to NiMH where I dont really care about this stuff. are this disclaimers for real? i mean, I dont want to work for the battery i want the battery to work for me :)

    it would be nice to bump us the run time of the car though...

    thanks in advance :)

    My experience -  
    Most non-competition Tamiya kits are sprung for NiMH or LiFe packs.  Lightweight LiPo leave the car feeling stiff and prone to loose handling on packed dirt or asphalt.  
    In crawlers, the heavy NiMH packs add needed weight and forward weight bias. They are big and restrict me from using forward motor trannys, but it’s not a detriment to my rigs.

    I occasionally drive a makeshift parking lot track with friends.  They run LiPo (5000 mah) and I run NiMH (3000 mah).  They hit low voltage cut off within minutes of my battery being completely drained.  My car is not “punchy” at all, but  being smooth and steady suits my driving style.  My friend’s cars are punchy enough to break traction at will.

    I leave all 22 on my NiMH packs stored with a full charge.  I can drive any RC at will with zero time needed to plan, prep, charge or store batteries. Minimal safety precautions are needed in charging areas, and zero regard is given to battery voltage at any stage of use.

    I’m obviously a proponent of NiMH…

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  7. That’s a helluva dilemma. Despite Traxxas being Traxxas, their electronics are horrible.  Factor in the cost of real servos, it’ll be unjustifiable.

    Though I have little experience with the CC02, the greatest drawback I hear about is the abundance of speed.  It needs an ESC with low speed fidelity and some low gears.  I’ve found that tiny crawlers roll quickly.  Perhaps it’s my old eyeballs and aging reflexes, but they go from creeping up an obstacle to tumbling before I can register what just happened.  Big crawlers tip in slow motion.  Good for aging eyes and reflexes.  Low speed throttle fidelity helps.  Regardless, I feel the allure of the CC02 as well.

    If you’re open to suggestions, Element Enduros are excellent.  Buttery smooth drivetrain, plush suspension, good COG from the factory, lots of aftermarket….

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  8. Sometimes the chase is more thrilling than the prize.

    This guy for example.  I just had to make a Blazer with rallley wheels and a white topper.  No desire to drive it, it just needed to be built that way and I obsessed until it was done.  It’s been shelved for years.  The idea was more thrilling than the completion.

    B83B98C1-196C-4117-9049-9E7F2254E3AA.jpeg

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  9. Good choice for axles. The older AX10 axles are very robust and smooth.

    Regarding the suspension, I suggest attempting to move the upper damper mounts closer to the center of the chassis or locatingsofter springs.  
    I don’t know what damper pistons are inside or how heavy the battery is. Those are additional factors that will effect how the suspension compresses.  
    Generally monster trucks have supple compliant suspension.  For this reason I doubt that thicker damper oil is the direction you would want to go.  Damper oil would best be sorted after softening the ride.

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