SupraChrgd82
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Posts posted by SupraChrgd82
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Are there any overdrive gears or other mods to improve steering radius for the CFX chassis?
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I don't believe the Hilux and Bruiser parts would be easily interchangeable. The Bruiser uses a dedicated molded box for the servos that integrates the servo mount with the box' thus requiring a full conversion to the Bruiser components. The Bruiser also has stamped steel chassis rails whereas the Hilux has solid aluminum chassis rails and different cross braces. I am by no means saying it can't be done, it just wouldn't be a direct bolt-on and could trigger additional changes to the chassis to make everything mate up.
Is your purpose to restore the vehicle, or to have a runner?
Regarding the part for sale, another member may be willing to assist in getting it mailed to you.
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6 hours ago, alvinlwh said:
Spent the evening swapping out parts on the 3R M4.
The front spool swapped for a diff.
If you don’t mind posting, I’d like to hear about any changes to the vehicles handling after swapping to the diff.
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Given the rugged chassis and identical wheels all around, I am inclined to say that it is an amusement park RC vehicle.
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Not much value in those anymore. There’s a re-re Bruiser and since the advent of OEM crawler ladder frames the scale builders don’t need ‘em. The only market left is the few whom are restoring a vintage Bruiser.
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In your case, it looks to have been built meticulously in accordance with the manual. It's likely that the trans is not in need of any service. You may be able to feed it some Tamiya grease through the open ports and enjoy an occasional jaunt through your yard as it sits. Does the trans feel smooth and shift as it should? If so, that would be an indicator as to it's condition.
I wish I could offer more detail on the trans. My Bruiser has an Engle single speed, and the only other 3-speed I had was the High Lift version. If your confident in rebuilding and it gives piece of mind. there is no harm with servicing it.
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I use a 3PV for 9 vehicles (buggy, touring, crawler) and have zero qualms about reliability and support. It is a marvelous TX.
My one complaint is related to the 3rd channel, which is my own shortcoming for not thinking ahead. The 3rd channel is a 2 position switch that requires operation with the steering hand. Now that I am deeper into crawlers, I desire a momentary contact button beneath the throttle hand thumb (to operate a dig, 3 speed transmission, or light controller). Again, it's my bad for not having the foresight to anticipate that preference.
For the basic 2 channel operations (forward/reverse, left/right), there is no way you can go wrong with a 3PV.
Also note that the T-3PV has telemetry; it is a fine luxury to see the battery voltage in the car in addition to the TX.
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5 hours ago, GTVeloce said:
Hello everyone,
After doing a lot of reading on transmitter recommendation threads etc, I have some specific questions since I am just starting up. I mention Futaba since I am used to the brand from back in the day (never had one, just looked at them in magazines). Furthermore, something tells me that I should not cut corners on a Tx even though I am only interested in casual driving and not racing etc.
I would like to start sort of "defensively" on the purchases in case things don't pan out well with the hobby etc... In other words, I would rather pick something basic first (and stick to it if I just use the car here and there and the hobby does not pick up). If thinks go well (with the hobby), then to opt for a better option inside the same ecosystem* (*if this makes sense, to have 1x basic and 1x better Tx with common Rx's in more cars in the good scenario).
So along those lines, I was thinking about a Futaba 2HR (stick route), or a 3PV (pistol type route), and then for level 2, if and when that comes, a 4GRS or a T4PM respectively.
So the questions:
1. Does it make sense to go with Futaba or should I consider other less expensive solutions like FlySky etc...
2. For someone used to sticks (albeit with simple RC cars back in the 80's like Nikko buggies etc...), wouldn't wheels/pistol seem odd? They do in theory to be honest...and sticks make more sense (like gamepad driving of sorts).
3, I take it that FHSS Rx's will be compatible with any of the Tx's mentioned so the plan will work right? In other words any of the aforementioned Tx's will be able to be paired with any car (as long as it has an FHSS futaba Rx)
Other considerations: The basic Tx must be suitable for my little one as well (either the 2HR or the 3PV). Given more cars and a 2nd TX, the 2nd TX will enable us to run simultaneously.
Many thanks in advance for your time and replies and apologies for the lengthy post and some too obvious questions.
GTVeloce
What sort of driving do you plan on doing and what continent do you reside?
For instance, if drifting you may wish to look for something gyro capable, for crawling something dig/4ws capable, scale cars something LED light capable, etc. It really boils down to whether you want the 3rd+ channel and what button/swich the TX has to actuate that 3rd channel.
Regarding your location, we find that some brands have limited availability and product support in some regions.
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8 minutes ago, Willy iine said:
Nice-!! Are those wheels aluminum?
Yes, sir, purchased from Pargu RC several years ago.
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On 3/27/2022 at 2:39 AM, moffman said:
I got lost in the moment last night and stayed up until the early hours finishing my scorpion then forgot the clocks went forward (yeah I know phones change automatically but I didn't take any notice of it) good job I wasn't going to work! Actually while I was building it I took the diff apart because its pre-built and I remember someone doing this a while ago because they thought it was a bit noisy and it didn't have a bit of lubricant in it!....and guess what? It was bone dry!
I believe our Scorpions are distant relatives. Needless to say, it looks great!
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Stunning! Even the sponsor decals are period correct and pertinent to Vee-Dub parts manufacturers.
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It looks 99% complete, and in fantastic condition. I suggest that you find a copy of the manual and acquire the little bits such as the tranny seal plugs & period-correct TX and either display the lot or run it very gently so as not to damage or scratch it.
You're very fortunate to have found one in that condition. Even the axles are glossy, not having oxidized from grubby hands touching the raw aluminum. Very nice.
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My buddy from Melbourne says, “Australia is just the convicted. The real criminals are still back in Britain.”
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I dare not post pictures, but I am a sucker for the Lego Architecture and Ferrari kits. My son has 2 x 35 gallon Rubbermaid tubs filled with Lego inherited from his big sister. We have no qualms about dumping them all over the floor to spend hours building.
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To open the opportunity for 2.2 wheels and tires, there's a few options;
Purchase Super Hornet wheels and rear drive adapters: https://www.tamiyaclub.com/modalpic.asp?img=14.jpg
Purchase the hex conversion kit (trash the front adapters) and use any 2wd buggy wheels that accept 5x11x4 bearirgs: 12mm HEX Adapter 4pcs for TAMIYA Grasshopper/Hornet/Frog/Wild One/Grasshopper 2 | eBay
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Trendy yellow grill lights for the Knightrunner
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I’ll vouch for ABC Hobby. I purchased the BRE 510 for a M-chassis last year and a 510 in standard 1/10 touring for a friend for Christmas. The body details are excellent. Decal ink seems a bit thin/transparent, but is definitely acceptable. I believe the Lexan grade they use can become brittle if left outdoors, more so than the big name companies (HPI, ProLine, Protoform, etc). If Tamiya quality is a 10, I rate ‘em 8.5. However, I give ‘em a 10 for producing the all the classic JDM cars that would otherwise be impossible to acquire.
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Happy birthday, Saito2
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Kyosho Perfex electronics…she’s a bit dusty as this one is a shelf queen Sidewinder.
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Tentatively finished the Knightrunner. Wiring and connectors are in place, servo centered, ESC programmed, EPA’s set. Contemplating LED lights and light buckets from Knight Customs…
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I really like #2. It has great contrasting colors that accent the body lines well. A perfect blend of retro and modern style.
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99% done with the Knightrunner. Now to install the RX and solder a connector to the ESC.
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rudeness of people on this sight
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