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Hey TurnipJF, thanks again for your reply. Actually, I did a test today. I put some superglue in the holes, and now the steering is really stiff, it is FINALLY steering straight !!!! This is temporary of course. I will order the gpm parts you mentioned. Any other advice for the steering ? If not, thanks for your precious suggestions. Hope i will find the gpm parts easily

Hello guys, I would like to upgrade the steering of my tt02b. i bought the entire steering system for the tt02, tamiya part 54752 and I am super happy with it. However, this kit is not available for the tt02b, I guess because of the turnbuckles length. well, does it exist such a kit for the tt02b? Or do I have to buy servo saver + steering bridge + steering parts + turnbuckles ? Which gonna be quite expensive compared to the 54752 kit. or may be the 54752 kit +the turnbuckles ? what do you think ?

Hey Guys, I think I know where the problem is. It is related to the steering. Look at the video : Can I find these parts easily or do you have another idea to solve this problem ? thanks

Hello, please find some video of the torque steering problem and gears skipping. https://youtu.be/8lTDDiVcAG4 https://youtu.be/9ah2NGJHnNM https://youtu.be/D4o8cxeBNeI what do you think ?

Thanks TurnipJF i will have a look next tuesday but this not explains why there is a huge torque steer. I guess there is something else than just splines being wore out. Or may be one side more than the other! Would that explains the torque steer ? What about the toe in of your Ff01? Could you send a picture ? i also see that the steering arms are not perfectly horizontal. They have a slope between the wheel and the servo, you also have that ? one last question : is it best to have the diff really hard to rotate or very free ? Thanks again for your contribution.

Do the Tamiya 53070 would fit for the FF01? I’m pretty sure yes but before buying it I would like to be sure. i am now more and more confident that the problem is located at the diff or the outdrives. There is no other logical explanation. And the fact that the external wheel bushing were not installed during initial mounting confirm this fact. The play at the wheel was enormous, so it can explain that the dogbones, the outdrives moved a lot in the internal diff and eat the splines. It is really when there is a “shock”. But to be sure I will take the Tamiya 53070 and Tamiya 50493 parts to be sure that everything is new. I will double check the frame to be sure nothing is cracked. i saw a lot of YouTube video with Ff01 hopped up with power brushless, but they all seems to handle quite smooth. I’m tired to unmount / remount everything and still have this handling + gear skipping problem. What do you think ?

In the manual, they don’t explain how to adjust the ball diff. They only show how to close it with the key, that’s it. i suppose that depends on wether you tighten it or not? Or there is different settings with the ball diff ? If you talk about the ball bearings, I just replaced all the bushing with bearings, those of the diff included. you point something quite interesting. I was thinking to that as well but I don’t know how to check if the splines of the diff are good or not. I think you also have a FF01 ? Do you have a video to show how it behave when you accelerate and go idle ? How is the handling ? Thanks for your help, much appreciated

Do you think it would be wise to order the full new ball bearing kit with the 2 outdrives ? When a ball diff is new or correctly greased, is it easy to turn or really difficult ? Because mine seems to be difficult to rotate, well there is some force if I can say

Yes I should post a video when I come back home in a few days. and what about the torque steer, is it normal on this model to have so much torque steer ? i set the toe in as explained in the manual for the front wheel, this is a little better but When I go idle after full thrust, now the opposite is true, she is steering the other Way. Very strange handle..,

The noise appears when the wheel is “jumping” so I guess when there is kind a vibration, like a shock or something. The A2 seems correctly closed but I will check for cracks indeed. if i replace all the gears and then it is not that, i would be fed up :-)

They seems to sit correctly but the guy who mounted the car forgot to put the external bushings. So the wheel axle was playing in all directions. I put now all the ball bearings and regreased the ball diff. May be the diff outdrives are worn but this is not shocking me at first look. Of course if I could compare to a new one, should be easy I don’t think it’s the dogbones, because I tested full deflections and they sit correctly in the diff outdrives and in the wheel side.

I just replace the motor pinion. But still same problem. All the gears seems fine but I have a huge torque steering. It s impossible to handle. The gear skipping is really present when I turn full deflection and accelerate full throttle. Any idea ?

Here is a pic of the car, just out of the box from the attic. I will start the dismantle very soon since I received the ball bearings. unfortunately today, we did a small run (10 min) and at the end the gears were skipping again. I really don’t know why this is happening. Every time, I unmount the motor, check everything then remount everything and it is working again. When unmounting, I don’t see any loose screw. I also check through the little window to see if the gears are correctly aligned and everything seems perfect. i’m totally Lost. Would that be possible the the torque tuned motor has too much torque compared to the original ? I really doubt but what strange is that the gear skipping always appears when applying full thrust... and seems to be worse with time. Certainly something not keeping tight but what?

For the windows, I will just remove the masking, on the front there is some stickers I will use, same for the rear. Nothing on the sides, but there is 2 mirrors each side so result should be nice. I already cut out the masking for the side windows, normallly it was in one block. I bought the leds for the lights, and now I’ll wait 2 days for the paint to be very dry to install the accessories (wipers, mirrors, lights, diffuser, spoiler...), then the lights, then the stickers. next episode in a week

Paint is dry, removing the plastic cover. I’m happy with the result. The only bad point is the holes in the body for the support. I know tamiya has some tools but anyway, it is never easy to do it correctly, even on genuine body.

Here is a pic of the body with 3 layers of red and 3 of silver (ps48).

No I don’t give up on Dremel at all. I love this tool and I use it with several different heads. The same as yours for the gross work, and the one that really polish to finish. The result is pretty neat but of course you still have to correctly cut initially. I started the painting of the lancer today. I finally didn’t find a black metallic paint so I gave up on black for the hood and roof. However, I use the ps37 translucent red with another silver, semi metallic anodised. I have to check for the number. We will see for the result since it is my first translucent paint. To be honest, I am not aiming the queen shelf one. Just a correct painting that reflects a potential existing model, that’s it. i also bought the led lights :-) I will post some pictures of the project. I can already tell that this can spray are really ****ty, I already have “spits” in the paint at some places, just because the can was not totally straight. Well, I knew that but translucent is not that kind of paint that forgives. Anyway, she will ride sooner than expected i look forward to see the final result with a black backing for the bumpers and the air entries on the hood. Cheers

That’s perfect, i will start making a list and hope to find anything. many thanks for the links. I wish I can post a picture of the bearhawk in the current state, but it’s just a massive amount of pieces in a box. May be in a few weeks ? With an original body shell :-)

Wow nice, explanations and pictures ! Thanks a lot

That’s an excellent call for the saved search with alerts, I didn’t thought to it! Thanks the problem is not finding the parts, but to be sure they are well compatible with the model. For example, I have a 17T pinion installed on it. On the other hand, I have no idea of the other gears/spur gears installed by default. Of course it takes some times but If someone has already done it, or knows exactly how to find the correct parts, it can saves me a lot of time. thanks for your links btw

Thanks for the replies and tips. Yes it is silver and not grey, my bad. (Tamiya PS12). i think it is metallic silver which gives the translucent red his shiny part. I should test with white or red backing as you suggest. For the black, I still have no solution. I don’t like the simple black in the PS cans. I really want a metallic shiny black, but they don’t have that :-( Any idea for a metallic black ?

Thanks for the answers guys. I already looked on eBay but found nothing for the shell. may be another bearhawk would be best, as suggested ;-) I will keep an eye on ebay

Thanks for your replies guys. Since I have now 2 TT02, i will think for the next one. May be another type ;-)

Hey Guys, i know there is hundred of topic about tips and tricks for the painting, and I read a lot of them. Anyhow, I still have unanswered questions and still want to have your recommendations. i will prepare a Lancer Evo X body shell in a few days. I know exactly what I want as a color : the PS37 translucent red. first question : - I know I have to back With grey but I find the result really dark. What option do I have if i want a more flashy red ? - the ps black is black and non metallic. Can I use the TS paint to have the metallic black ? Or any idea how to have a really shiny black? - if I want my hood and my roof black, and I use the ps37 red, how would you do the masking ? Because if I back with black, even on the grey, I fear the red will be darker, no? - is it possible to do a carbon like paint for the hood ? Other questions, more recommendations actually : - how do you finish the cutting of the shell ? I use a dremmel but the result is not perfect. Any other tips ? - how do you cut it ? With cissors, knife or both ? What would be the best ? - for the stickers, I read the water + soap technique. Any other good thing to know ? - about the lights, do you have a kit you recommend to put led on the head and tail lights ? i think that’s it for the moment, please don’t hesitate to tell your stories if you think that would help me Thanks