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My 2 speed passion motors come unwired but now I know what wire to use and what type of connector, I will do my wirings at the exact size I need. thanks for the info about the tble02, I really will drop this thing. What would be the pro and cons about a 60A or 120A esc ? Because for the price difference (5 euros), is it not better to take the 120A directly ? i saw the programming box, I didn’t know that was for that purpose ;-) are they compatible with all the brands or they are specific per brand?

Please correct me if i’m Wrong. Gear ratio of the TT02 is 2,6. If I installed the 10,5 in my touring car tt02, with a spur of 68 and pinion of 35, I have a FDR of 5 so the motor should run perfectly right ? and for the buggy with the 13,5T, with a spur of 70 and a pinion of 25, I would have a FDR of 7,28 which is close to the optimum ? am I missing something?

Wow thanks for the infos. When you say you add a little bit timing, I guess that’s not possible with the tble02? If i understand correctly the theory, the lesser turns you have in the motor, the more torque it will provide ? Meaning if I have to choose between a 13,5T and 10,5T with same gear, I would prefer the 10,5T if I go to the grass etc. And it will run less hot than the 13,5T, right ? when you say low volt built in, I guess if the esc is programmable (connection to a pc) you have all the features you need (low volt cut, timings, firmware upgrades, etc.). If it doesn’t, i can forget about it?? I will ditch the tamiya plugs, that was planned, but since I have all my lipo in xt60 for my drones, I was hesitating to have both deans and xt60. Either way, both are great but I won’t fly with a dean plug ever, so xt60 would be a good choice for esc and lipo/nimh. you have a recommendation for the wires and connectors ? (Brand, shop, ...)

Hello, I have 2 speed passion, 10,5 and 13,5T v3. For the moment, I use the 13,5 in a tt02 with a 25T pinion and the stock spur gear. i have several questions : - I read somewhere that every motor has an optimal FDR. I find a table in another topic but i would like to have more info on that. How to use it ? What do I have to take into account for my tt02? - I bought the high speed gear and a pinion of 35T with a spur gear of 64T. So basically I have 22/23/24/24/35T pinion and 70/68/64T spur gear. How would you configure it to have a decent final speed but still a good acceleration? With the 10,5 or 13,5? - what do you use to solder your speed passion, what type of wires ? What type of connectors to do that properly? - I have a tble02 esc, but If i follow the colour code BYO, I have to reverse the thrust on the remote. Any suggestion to have it correctly set ? - if I want another esc to go with the speed passion, what would be the best choice ? To benefit from its optimum efficiency? But also to upgrade to lipo in a near future ( I read that the tble02 should have a buzzer for low battery power, but what if I choose another esc, will it be equipped with that kind of security ?) - is there any cons to use XT60 instead of tamiya or deans connector for the esc/battery ? Thanks

Steering seems really nice with the hopped up steering compared to earlier so I really have to test it on the track. when you say slowed a touch more, you mean more preload ? More oil weight ?

Thanks for the sharing, really interesting, it gives me some inputs to work later on. Your setup seems nice, let me know when you have tested it ;-)

Ok long parts installed, filled the rear with 60wt oil. Here is the result : https://youtu.be/fycqKIOu3XU what do you think ?

You’re probably (certainly) right on this. I discussed with some enthusiasts at the track and in the shop, they all agree that for a « smaller » car like this, even with good equipment, I will never be able to jump like badword... which is kind of frustrating according to the power of the car : she just wants to fly... a lot. They say I have to use the slope for the landing, if there is none, don’t jump! That’s may be common sense but when you see a jump, all you want is... jump! :-) Anyway, the goal now is to have the best settings it can have for an « all round » type of driving. Something in between track and bashing. And may be for this particular track (which is kind of tricky), I will need a Xray xb8e / mugen mbx7r or 8 / TLR or anything really strong and close to competition. I am not yet there (and my wallet neither, even tough all the hop ups are not cheap, but at least I learn the basics right ?)

Thanks Juls1, I will try that out and make another video. In the mean time, I think I will change the oil and put the longer ends. i will keep you posted.

Indeed I use the small ones. I will try these ones, thanks for the suggestion. ok I understand the droop is almost equal to sag for my car, so I have to decrease the spring pressure and configure everything with battery etc (ready to run) right ? So to be sure I clearly understand, I will load my car with battery, « unscrew » all the crowns and rescrew them until 30% of the stroke is inside the shock, or at least 20%, correct ?

Thanks a lot Juls1 for your analyse. i notice if use the other holes (outer and middle), the ground clearance is less. May be I can use the middle hole with a 800cst oil and see how it goes ? how do you set the droop? Just by turning the crown and stiffen or soften the spring ? the longer eyelets ? What are they ? Included in the df03 kit ? Thanks again for all your inputs, really appreciate. I’ve learned a lot since i’m Here, but still a lot know!

Some vid of the damper test : https://youtu.be/3ziltAoJqDc https://youtu.be/NVGG8659lZk https://youtu.be/jY2YTdbSnEM shoot your comments

Thanks for the info :-)

Yes it is still touching the ground :-( i will post video

Thanks, i ordered the arrowmax in case of, but I received my df03 dampers this morning, along with a lot of hopups, so I didn’t want to wait and I use a heat shrink tube (several layers) around my little pliers and It went good. I filled the front with tamiya yellow but added a little bit of 800cst oil. Il filled the rear with tamiya yellow only. I think the rear is really too soft but I can clearly see the difference between the standard shocks and these ones. I also installed the steering + turnbuckles, the reinforced lower arms and gear covers, the propeller shaft and joints, the fastrax motor mount with a pinion of 24T and the wheel alu hex. Not to forget a new savox servo with metal gears and the servo saver! A lot of work today! I also shimmed a lot of parts (lower arms, wheel axle, diff) The spoiler has a lot of crashes as you can see in the picture but that’s the buggy life! i am now waiting for the front and rear aluminium wheel hub and I think she will be close to finish. Any other recommendations ? i’m hesitating with the high speed gears and a larger pinion but it is already really nice like this. May be the universal shaft ?

Thanks for the info, really helpful. ok I will flll the df03 dampers with tamiya yellow and see how it goes. A dumb question but what tool do you use to maintain the shaft when you are screwing the little plastic support ? i do like tamiya says, with something to protect the shaft but it always ends with some marks. any tips ?

I just ordered the df03 :-) what oil would you first test with these shocks ?

Look at these vid : https://youtu.be/j-gpxgySQ0k it seems the upgrade is inevitable :-)

I don’t find the correct setting to avoid smashing it on the ground after every jump. You said earlier the car should have a droop/compression ratio at about 20/80. i have the impression that mine has 0/100. When I drop gently the car on the table, the shocks are not compressing at all. And I think I already had that with the stock oil. Even with no spacer. What am I doing wrong ?

Thanks a lot for the explanations, really helpful. anyhow, I set the shocks in the inner holes, rear and front, up and down (shock tower and suspension arm), I filled with 1130cst oil and use with spacer and no spacer at the rear. the ground clearance is indeed improved but I still get ground impact when jumping more Than 50cm (more or less). with the aluminium shocks of the df03, will It solve this problem or it is just the TT02b design that sucks on that point. other than that, i’m Really happy with the car so far, the guys at the track were pretty impressed by the plasma edge, the performance With not so many hop ups, and the crash it can take before breaking. They all thought it was tamiya so just sh**t, diff not good with brushless etc... but I have demonstrated this was totally false beliefs, at least after more than 20 batteries without any problem. Anyway, my gpm steel gears are on the way, in case of... ;-) so last question, how to get a correct suspension on this car ?

Thanks for your advices. What is the viscosity of the stock tamiya oil ? I have 1130cst oil, team losi. I already filled the rear shocks. When you say too soft, you mean oil not thick enough or spring too soft ? if I mount the shock to the inner holes, they will be softer, I can use spacers for the spring then, but they will have also more ground clearance and with 1130cst oil, should be ok for that type of track no?

Yes it is, but pretty hard tough. Very dry at that moment, the clay is just rocks. anyway it is very fun

I have indeed frp front shock tower installed on the video. I also have the rear one but not yet installed. What would you use as shocks other than stock ? this is an open track so i’m not sure they even have a race or club. So I can start by changing the stock oil with more thick oil and see how it goes.

Another silly question, how do you setup your shocks on the tt02b ? What about spacers / springs / inner-middle-outer holes ? Here is mine on a very hard track : As you can see, after a jump, the chassis is touching the ground. She is also bouncing on every stone and rocks. my setting is the following : - spacers until the dogbones are horizontal. - châssis must be parallel to the ground - I use the standard holes for the shocks. any recommendation ?

I just ordered the steering part. what else do you have installed on your ff01?