legau
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Posts posted by legau
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2 hours ago, ThunderDragonCy said:
Here you go.
For grass i would knock the buggy gearing up 1 (so for 10.5 run around 9 FDR instead of the suggested 8 in the table), but otherwise thishas been pretty good for me
Please correct me if i’m Wrong. Gear ratio of the TT02 is 2,6. If I installed the 10,5 in my touring car tt02, with a spur of 68 and pinion of 35, I have a FDR of 5 so the motor should run perfectly right ?
and for the buggy with the 13,5T, with a spur of 70 and a pinion of 25, I would have a FDR of 7,28 which is close to the optimum ?
am I missing something?
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46 minutes ago, Wooders28 said:
For gear ratios, i normally check motor temps, if it's hot, then it's geared to tall (assuming the gearbox is free running etc etc) Generally on grass, I gear low and work from there, or add a bit of boost/timing. I only run off road buggies, so if I run on the road, I can run tall gears, fairly confident it won't run too hot.
12awg silicon wires are the pretty much standard size.
You should have 3 bullet connections with the motor, that push onto the motor. (Think the theory is, you can swap motors quickly in a racing environment)
Not used those esc's, but the motors are labelled A B C , and in sensored motors, need to be wired A to A etc (whatever "A" colour is on the tble02s)
I went for a speed passion esc, but not available new these days. Depending on what your plans are, general bashing about I'd say hobbywings 10bl120 is hard to beat for the cash (£40) , if you're planning on racing, then something more substantial like hobbywings XERUN (I've not run these, but a couple of the guys at the club swear by them) at around £120, although I'm finding the reedy 510 flawless but at £220 new a bit pricey! (Got mine 2nd hand).
A better esc does extract more performance from a sensored motor, by being able to apply timing to the motor at various Rpm's, a recent YouTube vid I watched managed to get 5200kv out of a 13.5t motor , which started as 3200kv in 'Blinky' (stock tune, zero timing).
Budget wise, you can get a low volt alarm that plug a into the balance lead ,off ebay for a quid. But as you say, if you get a new ESC, it should have a low volt cut off (generally adjustable) built in.
Personal preference, I've cut the XT60 off one of mine and solder on a deans , only because most of mine are on deans (race cars on 4mm bullets).
Either way, ditch the molex (tamiya) plugs, they have a rating of 15A, and can struggle providing the juice of a nimh, the 13.5t with timing pulled around 100Amps peak (if I remembered right 🙄)
Wow thanks for the infos.
When you say you add a little bit timing, I guess that’s not possible with the tble02?
If i understand correctly the theory, the lesser turns you have in the motor, the more torque it will provide ? Meaning if I have to choose between a 13,5T and 10,5T with same gear, I would prefer the 10,5T if I go to the grass etc. And it will run less hot than the 13,5T, right ?
when you say low volt built in, I guess if the esc is programmable (connection to a pc) you have all the features you need (low volt cut, timings, firmware upgrades, etc.). If it doesn’t, i can forget about it??
I will ditch the tamiya plugs, that was planned, but since I have all my lipo in xt60 for my drones, I was hesitating to have both deans and xt60. Either way, both are great but I won’t fly with a dean plug ever, so xt60 would be a good choice for esc and lipo/nimh.
you have a recommendation for the wires and connectors ? (Brand, shop, ...)
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Hello, I have 2 speed passion, 10,5 and 13,5T v3.
For the moment, I use the 13,5 in a tt02 with a 25T pinion and the stock spur gear.
i have several questions :
- I read somewhere that every motor has an optimal FDR. I find a table in another topic but i would like to have more info on that. How to use it ? What do I have to take into account for my tt02?
- I bought the high speed gear and a pinion of 35T with a spur gear of 64T. So basically I have 22/23/24/24/35T pinion and 70/68/64T spur gear. How would you configure it to have a decent final speed but still a good acceleration? With the 10,5 or 13,5?
- what do you use to solder your speed passion, what type of wires ? What type of connectors to do that properly?
- I have a tble02 esc, but If i follow the colour code BYO, I have to reverse the thrust on the remote. Any suggestion to have it correctly set ?
- if I want another esc to go with the speed passion, what would be the best choice ? To benefit from its optimum efficiency? But also to upgrade to lipo in a near future ( I read that the tble02 should have a buzzer for low battery power, but what if I choose another esc, will it be equipped with that kind of security ?)
- is there any cons to use XT60 instead of tamiya or deans connector for the esc/battery ?
Thanks
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10 hours ago, Juls1 said:
Looking much better.
If you find you don’t have enough steering you may need to use a softer front spring or play with the mounting positions.
Try it out on the track the rear may need to be slowed a touch more yet, but I think your pretty much there. When you drop the car it should compress and then return to its neutral position without any bouncing.
I think you should see a difference at the track now.
Steering seems really nice with the hopped up steering compared to earlier so I really have to test it on the track.
when you say slowed a touch more, you mean more preload ? More oil weight ?
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21 hours ago, nbTMM said:
Looks good to me. For what it's worth, I just upgraded mine to carbon shock towers and here's how I've set it up with stock shocks.
Rear shocks have 800cst oil, stock springs with the largest spring collar/spacer. Mounted to the holes as pictured. X3 must be installed on the shock shaft as per instructions otherwise the piston will crash into the rubber bladder, possibly damaging it over time. Even with it there is plenty of compression.
Droop:
Settled:
Compression:
Front shocks have 1500cst oil, reason being that the suspension arm has much higher leverage on the front shock due to how they are mounted, so much higher shock and spring rates have to be used to realise similar effective rates at the front and rear wheels. Despite this, the stock front springs were still way too stiff, even using the softest combination of mounting holes, so I substituted springs from a TT02 road car. These are significantly softer than the stock TT02B springs and also physically shorter by about 1cm. I stretched the springs to make them a little bit longer, and installed all 3 collars/spacers. The collars are just enough to keep the spring captive (so the spring perch doesn't fall out), they are not providing any preload on the spring. V11 is omitted from the shock shaft to provide maximum compression. This is slightly stiffer than the rear (both shock and spring) and has slightly less suspension travel - should help in making the handling tend towards understeer instead of oversteer, and keeping the nose up higher so when it comes across sticks/rocks/bumps the chassis ends up sliding over them rather than bulldozing them with the nose of the car.
Droop:
Settled:
Compression:
Drop test from 1ft/30cm (watch the shock towers / chassis because the shell isn't secured down)
My battery is a 5000mAh 3S pack so it is heavier than average (429g) - the result is my suspension will effectively be a bit softer because it has to deal with more weight. Ride height is about 29mm - you'll probably want a bit lower than this to improve cornering performance and prevent traction rolling. I'm using the inner mounting points for the turnbuckle upper arms as I want to prevent traction rolling as much as possible due to my raised height and increased weight. Shortening the turn buckles and using the outer holes will give camber gain (wheel cambers as it compresses) which will improve cornering grip by keeping the outer tyres flatter with the road when the car body rolls in a corner.
I haven't had the chance to run it yet but I think this will be a good start for my intentions (30-50km/h bashing over rough ground and grass). On the bench it is miles ahead of the stock configuration (which was laughable). I suspect if anything the first change I'll probably need to make is either to put heavier oil in the rear shocks, and/or move the rear shock lower mounting point to the middle hole and readjust the top hole to achieve the same ride height as now.Thanks for the sharing, really interesting, it gives me some inputs to work later on.
Your setup seems nice, let me know when you have tested it ;-)
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Ok long parts installed, filled the rear with 60wt oil. Here is the result :
what do you think ?
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3 minutes ago, nbTMM said:
I would not place too much importance on making the suspension so stiff that it doesn't bottom out when jumping, because you'll probably compromise how it performs over smaller bumps. I don't race, but from a bashing point of view, the chassis hitting the ground when landing big jumps is desirable, as it prevents breaking your suspension.
You’re probably (certainly) right on this. I discussed with some enthusiasts at the track and in the shop, they all agree that for a « smaller » car like this, even with good equipment, I will never be able to jump like badword... which is kind of frustrating according to the power of the car : she just wants to fly... a lot. They say I have to use the slope for the landing, if there is none, don’t jump! That’s may be common sense but when you see a jump, all you want is... jump! :-)
Anyway, the goal now is to have the best settings it can have for an « all round » type of driving. Something in between track and bashing.
And may be for this particular track (which is kind of tricky), I will need a Xray xb8e / mugen mbx7r or 8 / TLR or anything really strong and close to competition. I am not yet there (and my wallet neither, even tough all the hop ups are not cheap, but at least I learn the basics right ?)
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1 hour ago, Juls1 said:
Yep, car setup ready to race, reduce the preload until you have about 20-30% sag. Assuming you can still achieve a reasonable ride height. The arms slightly tilted down from level should give about 20-25mm clearance. I think you’ll need those longer ends to achieve both the desirable sag and ride height requirement.
The sag allows the wheels to drop down into holes and keep the car more level and stable, instead of the whole car falling in the hole if you have no sag.
Thanks Juls1, I will try that out and make another video. In the mean time, I think I will change the oil and put the longer ends.
i will keep you posted.
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Indeed I use the small ones. I will try these ones, thanks for the suggestion.
ok I understand the droop is almost equal to sag for my car, so I have to decrease the spring pressure and configure everything with battery etc (ready to run) right ?
So to be sure I clearly understand, I will load my car with battery, « unscrew » all the crowns and rescrew them until 30% of the stroke is inside the shock, or at least 20%, correct ?
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31 minutes ago, Juls1 said:
Rear shocks nearly look like there is no oil in them. Does seem like you have a lot of preload though. Usually you would setup the car with the droop set so the arms sit fairly level, the TT02b is a bit lower than normal and has little or no anti squat built in.
In any case you want your suspension to sag till the arms are almost level. You might like to try the more outer position holes on the tower and arms. You can use the longer eyelets on the bottom so you can have about 8-10mm of sag (measured on the shock shaft) while still keeping that slightly above neutral ride height. Doing this might let you run less preload on the springs and alleviate that bouncing but it does seem you need to jump to probably 60 if not 70wt oil to get that nice pack to prevent bottoming from a 10-15cm drop and improve stability. I can see with its current setup it’d be a *** hole to drive.
Thanks a lot Juls1 for your analyse.
i notice if use the other holes (outer and middle), the ground clearance is less.
May be I can use the middle hole with a 800cst oil and see how it goes ?
how do you set the droop? Just by turning the crown and stiffen or soften the spring ?
the longer eyelets ? What are they ? Included in the df03 kit ?
Thanks again for all your inputs, really appreciate. I’ve learned a lot since i’m Here, but still a lot know!
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Some vid of the damper test :
shoot your comments
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1 hour ago, ThunderDragonCy said:
This is good quick look up table nowyou are tuning your chassis.
https://www.rcscrapyard.net/uk/tips.html
As a tip, the kit springs for your tt02b are way softer than those gold df03 springs, so you can play with that for a start. If you want to get more into it, the df03 spring set 53927 is good.
Thanks for the info :-)
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4 hours ago, hanzo said:
If you do the 'drop test' by dropping the buggy on the bench say 10 or 20 centimetres, does it still bottom out/or bounce with the Tamiya yellow shock oil on the rear with the DF03 shocks?
I'm in the same situation and switched to 750 in the rears with the stock CVA's. Higher than 10cm it bottoms out for me. I also used the lower inner most mount point.
Yes it is still touching the ground :-(
i will post video
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Thanks, i ordered the arrowmax in case of, but I received my df03 dampers this morning, along with a lot of hopups, so I didn’t want to wait and I use a heat shrink tube (several layers) around my little pliers and It went good.
I filled the front with tamiya yellow but added a little bit of 800cst oil. Il filled the rear with tamiya yellow only. I think the rear is really too soft but I can clearly see the difference between the standard shocks and these ones.
I also installed the steering + turnbuckles, the reinforced lower arms and gear covers, the propeller shaft and joints, the fastrax motor mount with a pinion of 24T and the wheel alu hex. Not to forget a new savox servo with metal gears and the servo saver! A lot of work today!
I also shimmed a lot of parts (lower arms, wheel axle, diff)
The spoiler has a lot of crashes as you can see in the picture
but that’s the buggy life!
i am now waiting for the front and rear aluminium wheel hub and I think she will be close to finish.
Any other recommendations ?
i’m hesitating with the high speed gears and a larger pinion but it is already really nice like this. May be the universal shaft ?
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4 hours ago, Juls1 said:
Start with 40wt (Tamiya yellow) use the smallest hole piston. See how that goes, if your not getting enough stability or pack then you can go up a little bit in oil weight, if the shocks are too slow you can drop weight a bit, but I highly doubt that would be the case.
Feel free to have a look through my buggy damper thread.
Thanks for the info, really helpful.
ok I will flll the df03 dampers with tamiya yellow and see how it goes.
A dumb question but what tool do you use to maintain the shaft when you are screwing the little plastic support ?
i do like tamiya says, with something to protect the shaft but it always ends with some marks.
any tips ?
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20 hours ago, Juls1 said:
In that video he uses 3 racing oil shocks instead of Tamiya df03’s. I have both, the 3 racing units are junk compared to the Tamiya units.
I just ordered the df03 :-)
what oil would you first test with these shocks ?
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Look at these vid : https://youtu.be/j-gpxgySQ0k
it seems the upgrade is inevitable :-)
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8 hours ago, nbTMM said:
Trial and error, driver preference, type of track
. Just try different spring/shock settings, ride heights and see what works best for you.
I don’t find the correct setting to avoid smashing it on the ground after every jump.
You said earlier the car should have a droop/compression ratio at about 20/80.
i have the impression that mine has 0/100. When I drop gently the car on the table, the shocks are not compressing at all. And I think I already had that with the stock oil.
Even with no spacer.
What am I doing wrong ?
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Thanks a lot for the explanations, really helpful.
anyhow, I set the shocks in the inner holes, rear and front, up and down (shock tower and suspension arm), I filled with 1130cst oil and use with spacer and no spacer at the rear.
the ground clearance is indeed improved but I still get ground impact when jumping more Than 50cm (more or less).
with the aluminium shocks of the df03, will It solve this problem or it is just the TT02b design that sucks on that point.
other than that, i’m Really happy with the car so far, the guys at the track were pretty impressed by the plasma edge, the performance With not so many hop ups, and the crash it can take before breaking. They all thought it was tamiya so just sh**t, diff not good with brushless etc... but I have demonstrated this was totally false beliefs, at least after more than 20 batteries without any problem. Anyway, my gpm steel gears are on the way, in case of... ;-)
so last question, how to get a correct suspension on this car ?
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9 hours ago, nbTMM said:
Bounciness is caused by springs too stiff or shocks too soft. Try heavier weight shock oil, 1000cst
Slapping the chassis on the ground is due to shocks too soft, or not enough ride height. Having the lower arms drooping down a bit is ok - they don't need to be completely straight.Mounting the shocks to the inner holes on the lower suspension arms will give more range of suspension motion and it will be overall softer. The outer holes will give stiffer suspension and less range of movement.
Thanks for your advices. What is the viscosity of the stock tamiya oil ?
I have 1130cst oil, team losi. I already filled the rear shocks.
When you say too soft, you mean oil not thick enough or spring too soft ?
if I mount the shock to the inner holes, they will be softer, I can use spacers for the spring then, but they will have also more ground clearance and with 1130cst oil, should be ok for that type of track no?
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13 hours ago, Jonathon Gillham said:
Thats a pretty decent track for something that is just open to the public!
Yes it is, but pretty hard tough. Very dry at that moment, the clay is just rocks.
anyway it is very fun
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I have indeed frp front shock tower installed on the video. I also have the rear one but not yet installed.
What would you use as shocks other than stock ?
this is an open track so i’m not sure they even have a race or club.
So I can start by changing the stock oil with more thick oil and see how it goes.
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Another silly question, how do you setup your shocks on the tt02b ? What about spacers / springs / inner-middle-outer holes ?
Here is mine on a very hard track :
As you can see, after a jump, the chassis is touching the ground. She is also bouncing on every stone and rocks.
my setting is the following :
- spacers until the dogbones are horizontal.
- châssis must be parallel to the ground
- I use the standard holes for the shocks.
any recommendation ?
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I just ordered the steering part.
what else do you have installed on your ff01?
. Just try different spring/shock settings, ride heights and see what works best for you.
Speed passion and gearing
in General discussions
Posted
My 2 speed passion motors come unwired but now I know what wire to use and what type of connector, I will do my wirings at the exact size I need.
thanks for the info about the tble02, I really will drop this thing.
What would be the pro and cons about a 60A or 120A esc ? Because for the price difference (5 euros), is it not better to take the 120A directly ?
i saw the programming box, I didn’t know that was for that purpose ;-) are they compatible with all the brands or they are specific per brand?