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Tamiya Fan 1

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  1. Do you mean Futaba T4YF (Y)? No I wouldn't convert it. It might be illigal? (Fcc) Especially in UK. Fataba sells a T4YF 2.4ghz radio that looks exactly the same. Unless you are certifeid with radio's, I wouldn't mess with it. I assume it was a T4YF not T4VF.
  2. Yes, that is correct. The site has all the specs for it. It should handle 50 or less leds. They have bigger ones for more money called the" battle switch" I think. It plugs to the RX, you wire the leds to the relay, and yes it will turn extra lights on via 5 or 6 channel. You also have to wire leds from your battery. The "pico swicth" is the on/off between the battery and leds, controlled by RX. I've used a lot of these in different trucks. Will run other things up to 1 Amp also. (on/off)
  3. I just saw this. NO you can't add that many to the MFC-01. It will overload it. One, maybe two can be added to a connector (in parrelell), depending on which one, but more will cause havick. There are ways to do it. Do you have more then a 4 channel radio? If so, you can get a add on switch to turn the extra lights on via extra channel. For alot of leds, I recomend a "Pico Switch" from "dimensions Engineering". It is a 1 AMP relay switch, that connects to the RX. Handles about 50 Leds (red/yellow/amber) less for other colors do to there current. I like the " pico" because the relay will isolate if anything goes wrong, and won't fry other components. (worst scenario) There are other smaller switches that work same way but no relay and not sure they will handle a lot of Leds. I use the smaller ones for smaller loads. (under 10 leds) Different generic makers for these (Ebay/hobby shops) Sorry late to answer, hope it helps.
  4. So many possibilities. Did you center the servo before installing? Yes wires matter, usually the dark color wire would be ground. (Black/ brown )It can be put in backwards. The signal wire is white or yellow. The servo could require higher voltage than the "BEC" can deliver? It could be many things, try to check these and go from there. Maybe a local hobby shop could help out.
  5. Do you have the on/off switch controlling a "light kit"? Light kits have a strobe affect and you toggle to that by interrupting the on and off switch. I think you are toggling through that getting the strobe affect. The meter you have hooked up showing the switch is doing it's thing. That is my guess. If you have a light kit look in the manual for the strobe. I have a feeling if you wait a few seconds between on/off the strobe might not turn on. (power zero's out) Hope that makes sense.
  6. A 4000 MAH is a bigger battery pack then from back in the day when 1800 MAH was big (1990's). Your charge rate should be 4-5 amps for that battery, so you are doing it right. I charge my 3800 MAH batteries at 5 AMPS and it takes about 45 mins. Yes they will get hot at the end of charge. that is normal. On fire hot no good but will feel hot to the touch, and you could hold on to it if wanted to. (a good hand warmer) The lower the Amps the longer it will take to charge and may not charge completely. So you should charge at higher rate unless trickle charging (lower Amps.) which helps balance the cells and takes over night. Hope that helps
  7. A lot of skill full work done on that, looks nice. I'm sure your dad enjoyed doing it.
  8. Was it TS paint on a lexan body or did you mean PS paint? TS is the wrong paint for lexan. Any way, the above mentioned Tamiya product works well I hear. Another "mild" cleaner would be WD40 and some rubbing. but will have to clean body off when done to get rid of oily residue. It is a gentle approach.
  9. You should be proud of it. For a trailer you can do it. Just match your pant scheme with the colors and curvy lines it will look amazing. The same thing as cab just bigger. Repeat what you have all ready done. I think for you it would be easy. I hope you do because I would like to see it. Have a good one and enjoy your fine job.
  10. That turned out really nice. All the curved lines, details, sweet. Enjoy, you have a talent. The smile will always be there.
  11. I think the trim will look good, no worries. The tape marking I get seems to chemically reacted with the paint and looks filmy. I have used Wd-40 and wax to make it better but not a 100%. Never liked spray painting. I do it because, well I have to but not easy for me some times. (impatient) Will get a good look eventually though. Thanks for the tips. I will try isopropyl alcohol next time. Do you think that would hurt Tamiya TS lacquer paint?
  12. That's a nice touch with the strip, looks good. Your more of a painter than you think. What I did on my Knight Hauler, (to much chrome) was to leave the tanks chrome, paint there straps, painted the bottom rail body color, and the little rear tool boxes flat black. That breaks it up so it doesn't look like "Mr. T's" necklace on the lower half. (in Chrome) Your doing nice work on the look. Can't wait to see it done. Question and it may be above. How long did you wait before re-mask and re-paint between colors, dry time? I have issues with tape marking the paint it is protecting. leaves like a coating that is in the paint? ( Permanent) Keep it up.
  13. Power needs to be off when changing the switch for it to change- FYI. Some dumb questions, but: 1) Batteries have a full charge, truck and transmitter? 2) No loose wire connections? Control box to MFC. 3) Default set MFC as mentioned above? Turn power off after this, turn back on and reset transmitter to the MFC W/SW -1. That's all I can think of, unless Skyfly isn't set right? Not familiar.
  14. Some chrome is nice but it can really be to much some times. RE: Knight Hauler lower half. Good choice and I love the Voodoo Blue!
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