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Tamiya Fan 1

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  1. Your right, I think on mine, I swap the 2 center MFC servo wires to RX, J-5 and J-6. The order would be J-4 into channel 1, then J-6 into channel 2, J-5 into channel 3, and J-7 into channel 4. This will put throttle/shifting on left stick and steering/5th wheel on the right stick. Much easier to control. Also "DOC", do both your transmitter sticks self center? Most left sticks don't unless modified. That would also be hard to control. Note to my last post. The reason why the 5th wheel switch lowering power w/out trailer, is so it is more realistic and has the power needed to pull the extra load of the trailer and any load put on trailer. A high turn motor will give you more torque and less speed. Or just control your throttle, not full stick all the time. "Berman" is right about the motors.
  2. That plug (old computer like) comes in the "Light kit" only, Tamiya doesn't sell it separate. I did find on Ebay a while back, some one makes them up (China) and are done well, but not Tamiya brand. Will work just as good, don't have a link though. Do you have a servo in front of the 5th wheel? If so you should be able to disconnect the trailer and put the trailer legs up/down via transmitter. Switch on trailer for legs is part of that system, so you should have it. Unless truck and trailer weren't built for each other. Meaning trailer built for another truck or visa versa. The "Shell" trailer isn't made any more and is hard to get. It looks nice. About gear shifting. If you have 1 and 2, 3 should be there some where. Or it needs adjustment. (servo) Sounds like you got it working? The 5th wheel for speed, has a little switch mounted on it to trigger when trailer pin is connected. It is micro and has green/black wires hooked to J-12 on MFC. The "Trailer support legs" are separate than J-12 switch. There are 2 different things going on with the 5th wheel if you have all the bells and whistles. Wasn't sure if you new that? Sorry if to much information, hope it helps.
  3. I'll try to help. My radio is set w/left stick controls: up/down = throttle, left /right = gear shift. W/right stick: up/down = 5th wheel/leg support, left /right = steering. You can change positions by connecting MFC connecters into different position on the receiver to accomplish this. I would reset MFC to the radio via button and follow MFC manual. A good set up with (reset) can make a huge difference on how it operates. (all functions) (follow manual) Note: An older radio with ratchet trims (analog) should work the best w/MFC via manual. That being said most digital radios work fine with MFC. The trailer plug is part of the" Light Kit" for the trucks. Operates trailer lights via MFC. Also there is a "Trailer leg support" kit that you can run legs up and down via 5th wheel and transmitter. Not sure what plug you where referring to. The 5th wheel for trailer has a switch in it to control ESC power when trailer is hooked up. When trailer connected, truck will run faster. These aren't race trucks they are made for realism. In third gear they move quick for what they are. They are a lot of fun to operate. Hope this helps and have fun!
  4. Should be charging at 5 Amp. for those size batteries on a fast charge about 45 mins. A slow charger (overnight) would take longer (14-16 hrs.) at a lower Amp. setting but should still get it there. If you can hook up a voltage meter while charging (fast charge), you can watch voltage meter, volts will increase till it is peaking , and then voltage will drop when charge should be stopped. That's how to tell when charge has peaked. For the mah of those batteries you have, at 5 Amps. should take more than 45 mins. before voltage drops (peak). Slow charge will work this way also, but it's hard to check meter all the time. They will get warm-hot when done, that's normal. Hope that helps.
  5. Maybe Tamiya clear green. Might not be the right shade?
  6. Yes you do. That's a good idea. Beats letting it seat in a box.
  7. WD-40 sprayed on a paper towel and rub gently for acrylic paint. Go easy and watch the lines not to take off more than you want. It is like a "SAFE CLEANER" so to speak (not like thinner). Then clean the oily residue of if painting more. This works better sooner than later for how long paint has dried. Doesn't harm lacquer much unless you go crazy. Just another idea.
  8. FoxShot I didn't catch you wanted shock pliers. I wasn't taken a shot at you. They do make it easier as any tool does, so I'll keep it all !!
  9. What isn't in my tool box!! Off the top of my head I could do without shock shaft pliers but makes life easier.
  10. Nice crisp paint job! it looks good. Isn't that nuts about wheel hub sizes. Do you like the sleeks better than the knobbies and will this be a Shelf Queen?
  11. I remember those. From the 70's/80's is about right.(more 70's) I think right before Futaba "Magnum Jr."/"Attack R" if any one remembers those. And every thing was bigger back then, there was no micro, just the way that was. It wouldn't be an original to the Wild Willy. It would of had a three speed manual speed controller, run by a servo, with 2 resistors that would get hot. Was not sure if you knew or not. The old Wild willy is a lot of fun. My first Tamiya RC. Still have mine boxed up. The Original spring loaded wheelie bars work the best. Nice find and happy rebuilding.
  12. Thanks for the detailed response. I purchased one of these about the same time as you. (as far as I can tell. any way) Thought it looked like a cheap build to fill in time. Well I started buying hop- ups ahead of time. I shop (plan) ahead of schedule to, before the kit was ordered. While I was planning and looking through all the sites of where to order (maybe a day wait) and that intermittent gear disappeared. Well I can't find any where right now so I have all HR gears and the stock int. gear. might be all right. Waiting for motor mount now. (another oops) I went with 28 pinion and Sport Tuned motor. I bought hop ups to make it better, but also they were "cheap". It adds up for those "cheap" parts and not a "cheap" build any more! I only did the smaller hop-ups though. I can imagine what $ you have into yours, changing every thing! You have the "King" T3-01. Your build was not out when I started mine. (or didn't find till now) Keep bringing the build I'm following it. Should be a fast one!
  13. Where did you get the HR intermediate gear? Sold out every where.
  14. I know your trying go cheap. But did you know about "LESU" support legs? Like an actuator in leg form. Just throwing that out there.
  15. Good to know. I thought it might have gone away and that would be a shame. Thanks for the info.
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