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Tamiya Fan 1

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    Elgin, Il. USA

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  1. All the Tamiya Tanks are becoming scares. Maybe they will only be available when they come out and then for a short time? Don't know why but it is a shame.
  2. It should be the same as it always was. It is a good kit. Tight for wiring. Uses fiber optics for lighting. It is a better kit than the very first kits.RE: Tiger 1, King Tiger, Gepard, First Leopard tanks. But no there has been no updates or changes over time.
  3. There is a Sheridan 551 tank on Amazon. I'm in the US though. A little pricey, but not terrible. I found out it was a "limited edition". That's why it was a short run. Came out in 2019. I think the TYPE 10 was "Limited Edition" also. I can't believe how many tanks became discontinued.
  4. The Sheridan at Tamiya USA is a static version -sorry. Also Aeromax is listed as out of stock but couldn't find one not to long ago any where? Maybe bad timing. Tamiya is cutting back it seems since the pandemic. Big time in the tank section.
  5. You can still find all the different kits online. Tamiya USA has the Sheridan. But the site is running low on choice. Sherman, Type 10 are not listed. They seem to be pushing the cheaper tanks that come with a radio? Semi trucks are discontinued also. Mercedes Benz 1850L, Cascadia (not new) but was slated for a short run, and I think another one. (Aeromax) I liked all of those and have multiples. That sucks when the items start to dry up.
  6. sturge - No problem. I looked into it more and the passenger seat might not be doable, (the MFC is high there) center dashboard may have to eliminate it, (not glued into place) it is a very tight cab (maybe the smallest one I have done) The "Globeliner" would be easier to do. I'm still going to try it again, think it can be done if everything is just right? There is room in there - just not in the right places. NOTE: Let the MFC breath at the heat sink, RH side truck, (silver piece) with what you do. Expect a lot of trial and error! But that is the fun some times. I think it kicked my butt though. (for now) Good luck, have fun, and let us know what you discover.
  7. I have tried on the M/B Arocs 4151 tipper, the bigger dump truck. I think the cab is fairly the same. Many hours and adjustments! I am determined to do it. But it still is not done do to frustration and time. I wanted to do the same thing. Putting a wall in the back won't clear because of the cab swing to open. What else I did. Get the MFC-03 as matched to "the manual" placement flat to floor. I used Velcro as some placement is possible for more clearance. Tuck the wiring in neatly.(more important than ever) Made seat brackets out of aluminum sheet that connect like the originals but seats higher in the cab. (seat screwed to aluminum without seat base) Also ended up doing 2 sets of the brackets because had to go even shorter. (higher up) Then cut Driver legs off at the knees. Then cut the center dashboard where it hangs down. Over and over I tried. Trying to keep and cut as little as possible. Still no luck and the seats will push up this way to. I gave up and still sits complete but with the cab off. Just never got back to it yet. (frustrating) I think the way to do it (thought this many times all ready) is to build a false floor, over the MFC, seats attached to that, etc... There really isn't room on this one. The original plastic seat hangers won't work. Center dashboard is a big issue. Which all sucks after a nice paint job and then cut /repaint over and over. The interior looks good stock. The big trouble is finding out what is blocking it from shutting now! Hard to tell! Bottom line is it won't be easy and frustrating. I still think it can be done but not traditionally. The cab swing to open gets in the way also. In hind sight, try to make it all fit first then paint dash board, seats, driver. It sucks having it look good (done) and then cutting/re-paint. I hope this gives you some clues and if you you do figure a way to do it let us know. GOOD LUCK!
  8. Looks like an optocoupler? Should have isolation between the two sides. J-20 puts out 4volts with the 2 leds connected. Amps at J-20 not sure? Let us us know how it all works out.
  9. You don't have an extra channel on your radio I take it. Pico switch works great for this, if you have radio space. Your on the right track. I wish I could help more, but nothing, I know of is made for this. Maybe an audrino would work, but I don't know much about them.
  10. I thought MFC Expander might not be up to par. I THINK you'll get 5volts from J-20. (Haven't looked at my notes) But relay might pull to much current for MFC to sustain it and could do bad things to the MFC. Leds don't draw much current (amps) I would look to something in the transistor switch which will be like a relay but lower current. So look for something like the relay switch but has a transistor instead to turn on/off. Is there something, not sure?? I haven't been up on it lately. The MFC can't handle big loads as I think you know. Transistor is like a electronic version of a relay, low current to operate, trigger it on, where as relay coil will use more current than MFC will provide. I wouldn't feel safe doing it. It's not so much the voltage but the current that the MFC has available. make any sense? Hope this helps some what.
  11. I thought about this and remembered I saw something that might work? It is called a "MFC Expander Board". I would put Tamiya in front of that for web search. I have not tried this, I don't see it working with what I know about the MFC. May be it has some circuitry in it to makes it work? It is supposed to plug in to MFC and give you 10 extra plugs to plug in. Not much info on it , does it work?? Note it is not made by Tamiya as far as I know. This may work for you? About $23, I've seen it on Ebay and a hobby store. Let me know if you need help finding it? If it works let us know. Remember MFC's are expensive. Just trying to help.
  12. If you run extra leds off of MFC ports, you can only get 1 or 2 extras before the lights won't light because that port will be over current. So you do need something in between Like a relay that powers from battery. But a relay won't drive of of J-20 because there isn't enough power there. Hope that makes sense? I think MFC is some what protected but to much or done wrong could damage MFC $$$$. Be careful !! Also why I don't want to responsible.
  13. A "Pico Switch" is the way to go. Unless you don't have an extra channel. But you want to run it off of J-20. (so your extra lights turn on with truck run lights) I get it! That is exactly what I wanted to do In the beginning of my First Knight hauler. So I experimented for about six months with electronics. (on and off) A lot of failure till I got the circuit right. I am not an electronics guy, just self taught when I was a kid. (Just enough to be dangerous) Any way I came up with a circuit that will do just that. It gets added into all my trucks. When you toggle through the lights, roof lights turn on and so do the extra lights. RE: extra truck lights and added trailer run lights. They are hard wired to trailer along with the Tamiya Trailer light kit. Unfortunately all forums that talked about this are gone these days. "Mr. Lights" came with a set up that could run as many lights as you wanted. (see if he can still be looked up, but doesn't do them any more). Mine has a current limit, but handles a good amount. Bottom line is it can be done if you know electronics a little. I don't want to say much more do to liabilities, etc... Not trying to be a D_ _ K. I've thought about this in the past and don't want problems with some one burning up a MFC/Etc...(possibly Tamiya) You make a "Y" to connect to J-20 on MFC. Roof leds/J-20 connect to one end and circuit to the other. When you turn lights on it's like you pulled the switch in the truck and all running lights turn on. Very realistic, no extra channel. The MFC does it's thing and the circuit does it's thing simultaneously. The circuit runs off the battery but triggered by J-20. I answered this because that is exactly what I thought way back when. It can be done off of J-20. So you are on the right track. Nothing is available to purchase out there to do this. (I looked/that I know of) A lot of trial and error to figure it out though. I am no electronics wiz, but I came up with it. Is it right?? But does work in about 20 of my trucks. No problems unless I had to many LEDS and it will kick in out, or not light at all. This got long. Do to Liabilities I don't want to say more?? But your on the right track. An Extra channel will work also. You can figure it out. Your on the right track.
  14. I would just buy the original, much easier. "Tamico" has them and will ship UK. Part #7325031 Tamiya. Doesn't look pricey. It is a very small switch and hard to find on it's own. Just my two cents.
  15. "Fast Eddy" bearings. one stop shop, have all kinds with good prices. Or Ebay for odd balls. Ceramics are huge $$ though.
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