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Tamiya Fan 1

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  1. They sell a universal adaptor that is banana plugs to the charger and have 8-10 different plug connectors on it to connect with batteries. I'm not sure witch plug the traxxas has but you can look on line. They come in real handy. (Tamiya, Deans, Futaba, etc.) I don't have change hook almost ever. Look up battery charger connectors. If not what you want they are made all signally, or make your own. The universal one is not to costly either. Makes life easier. Ebay, Amazon, Hobby stores, etc.
  2. Your motor is getting way to hot!! They should never run this hot. Gearing could be the problem. You can go about 3 sizes up or down with the pinion from stock to be safe. I don't know what the original sizes are. Is everything moving freely? Rusty bearings that need oil? Motors get warm to hot but not scorching. Should try to find it because you will fry your motor if not all ready. Hope this is some help.
  3. That is why there is sensored to fix the problem you are having. Crappy response if not sensored.
  4. Another thought. Try to hold wheels so they won't spin, and give it a little throttle, do you hear the noise still even though wheels/gears are not spinning? A brushless motor is more electronic than a brushed motor and could create a high pitch also. Also if you spin the wheels by hand, is there any tightness/binding or is it smooth? Check those few things and see what you find.
  5. Not sure but ESC will have a high pitch to it. (electronic high pitch) Brushless motor cans should not be tightened to tight, this will bind them up, and gets worse when they get hot. Should be snug but not cranked on. You have some gear lash between pinion and spur gear? (not to tight) Possibly something out of place or tight in gear box. With out hearing it, sounds like electronic noise motor or esc. (whine) That's all I can think of.
  6. With a 6 channel radio that gives you more options to turn lights on/off or add-ons. The truck takes 3-4 channels (depending on what you go with) and you'll have 2 extra to work with. (always in demand) If you use a MFC for your controller, all extra lights can be run off of a "Pico Switch" from "Dimensions Engineering", US though. It uses a channel on the RX to turn them on/off and power comes from the battery so nothing overloads. Look it/them up, they have more items. Do some research, they are so many options and ways to go. Plan what you want out of it and you'll be happier. I use all Tamiya items to do mine: MFC-01, Trailer lights (gray cable), Motorized trailer support legs. All hooks up together and is simpler (?) I think to come up with the final truck. Just me. Ask and people will help you out. Many different ways to approach things. This site and others have good sections to look at and see what others have done.
  7. Put any lights in trailer before build. Do as much as you can (want to do)to it while building. It's just easier. It depends how far you want to go with it. The semi's are great to build and run. Very realistic and fun. The flatbed is a nice trailer. Oh, I said OBD in my last post, I meant OB-1. Don't stress out just enjoy. Take your time with it and plan what you want it to be. (many options) They have motorized trailer legs also.(should be done while building) You can't have just one.
  8. I would recommend the MFC-01. It is made for the kit, everything fits the way it should. Makes it much easier on you. As far as the trailer goes, Tamiya makes the trailer light kit. That gives you the tail lights, turn signals, and brake lights. If you want additional lights like side lights, there are many ways to do this, which will involve drilling. How to control this depends on how many channel radio you have etc... Gt power also made a 4 channel light kit only for the tractor which works ok. Pain to set up though and in the end I didn't really like it over the MFC. OBD also makes blue tooth stuff for the whole truck (2 piece kit). Which is made to be an add on to the MFC to add extra lights for truck and trailer. Just some thoughts, hope it helps.
  9. If your not charged for it at check out, you should be good. (no tax)
  10. "Tower" used to be the place to buy kits. Couldn't beat the price, but now - not so much. I miss those days! I don't use as much as I used to. kwkenuf - You are correct. Tower is not the same, but they do have fast shipping usually.
  11. I think it was done like that so any skill level person could do it. They do work well and add that extra realism to the experience. Un hook and drive away or visa versa. Soldering is a cleaner way to go. (not so bulky)
  12. I would solder all wire connections on Motorized Leg Supports, if you can. The way the instructions tell you to do it isn't very good. That's how I have done all mine and eliminates bad connection happening down the line.
  13. Lipo batteries should be stored at 3.8V. (I think) That is where it is stable for long term storage. Meaning not using it. I would get a Lipo low voltage digital sensor. Different ones out there, from $5 on up. Reads full voltage and each cells voltage. Lets you monitor it when needed. To discharge them to the correct voltage, I recommend ISDT-FD-100 Lipo discharger. It works great, simple to use, and does what it should. Going for a good price. Some chargers now days have the discharge function also. If you ever see bulging of the battery, I wouldn't use it anymore. Different cell voltage inside the battery is not good either. Hope that helps
  14. Try stirring the bottom thick stuff in and then shake. Especially for white, yellow, and red paints. This helps a lot to thicken it up and be more consistent. Maybe that helps.
  15. I tried to repair batteries with no long term solution. Plus bad things can happen! Like shorting, sparks and fire. Some thing bad happened to your battery. Your better off getting new and/or different brand. All batteries are not created equal even if pricey.
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