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About Apollo11

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  1. Thank you. The pinions are the standard ones that came with the motor. I'll look out for replacing those if need be. The kit was built using sealed bearings throughout. I've done a search and read the instruction sheet that came with the Super Stock Motor and there's no mention of timing. So I think we're ok on that front.
  2. Just that ESC, or the motors as well? What do you mean by 4S btw?
  3. So that would work then? And not put too much strain on the transmission and the like? I'm happy to stick with Nimh, at least for the time being. At the risk of asking a bone question, what is this advanced timing? I've read it mentioned before, but don't understand what it is. I think I get what you're referring to re: one axle pushing/pulling the other: if the two motors aren't in sync, then one would be running faster than the other.
  4. Assuming these motors will be ok in my Clod, would this be a suitable ESC for them? https://www.modelsport.co.uk/hobbywing-quicrun-0880-dual-motor-brushed-esc-80a-waterproof/rc-car-products/440053
  5. Before anyone says anything, I will admit that in hindsight this wasn't the smartest of moves. But the thing is that in a fit of youthful exuberance (doesn't happen often) I decided to get the fastest brushed Tamiya motors I could find. So I ordered two Super Stock BZs. Stupidly I didn't check against the spec of the ESC first. Now that one has arrived (two different suppliers as they were low on stock), I see it is 23T. The standard ESC that came with the Clod is rated for motors over 25T. Other than uprated bearings, the Clod is currently as standard. This leaves me with two fundamental questions: 1. How serious a problem is this? (i.e. how much damage would it do to the ESC? Is this far too much motor for the Clod?) 2. What are my options?
  6. Right folks, thanks for all the guidance. It has been really useful. I have very nearly finished the Clod. All the body paint work is finished and the stickers are on. I am just waiting for the paint on the spot lights to cure properly before I put them on and apply those stickers. When it is complete I'll upload some final photos. I'm conscious of a couple of mistakes so I won't claim it's 100%, but I am still pleased with the result overall. The bits I found trickiest was the detailing the window surrounds. I've enjoyed this challenge so much, that I went and bought a super hot shot as my next build. Something to stop me going nuts during the lock down. I watched a couple of Youtube videos on spraying the inside of the body. One of them mentions rubbing the body with 1000 grit sand paper - omitting any windows - to give the paint something to key on to. But this is not mentioned elsewhere. What are peoples' thoughts on this?
  7. Great, thanks for the heads up. If you hadn't explained that one, I would have left the clear coat until last and ruined the detailing as a result.
  8. Will do, duly noted. Why the clear coat first? I had expected that to go on last, after the black in the vents. I've got some thin brushes, so I'll use them.
  9. it's the 2nd photo I'm referring to. But I like the idea of making the vents black. Thanks, I'll give that a go.
  10. As I'm now doing the gun metal grey section at the back, the bonnet and cab area are masked over. But looking at the photos again, I'm now having second thoughts about the paint finish in the air intake under the windscreen. Would it be possible and worthwhile to take a scalpel and scrape out the bits of paint left from the original attempt and spray that area again?
  11. Cool, got the link now thank you. Looks good. Incidentally I am viewing on a Desktop. But I'm not seeing your signature?
  12. That's a relief. I applied the masking sheets on Sunday and the last coat went on the previous weekend. So it had plenty of time to cure. I've now taped on a spare plastic bag to cover the rest of the cab from over spray. I'm now going to have wait for the weather to calm down before the next layer. yes, I watched an informative youtube video that demonstrated the soapy water trick. I used the technique when applying the masking sheets. Partly to make sure I got them lined up correctly. But also to practice applying the technique before taking on the stickers. it worked rather well. Not familiar with the window cleaner trick, what's that? is it much the same thing?
  13. I'm in the UK. Ironic that the world has gone down the rtr route. Back when I was surrounded by r/c cars, it was the Tamiyas that ruled and anything pre-assembled was treated with scorn. Perhaps it's linked to the general dumbing down of society? I'm not interested in an rtr model as it's the challenge of the build that I was after anyway, as I had been denied the opportunity first time round. As for the shop I bought the kit from, I had made a special point of seeking out a specialist r/c store. The guy's been running it for 20 years and has always only broken even (so he says anyway). He's stocked with numerous r/c kits, radio sets, tools, spares, paints, that sort of thing. Although he does focus more on the flying models and teaches regularly in a nearby field. It was clear I was buying everything I needed from scratch, so to some extent he missed out on a few upsell opportunities. On another note, earlier today I fixed the masking stickers in readiness for spraying the gun metal grey detailing at the back of the truck. But it got too dark before I had a chance to do the spray. the masking will need to be peeled off when I am done. Will leaving it on too long be bad for the base paint?
  14. And that won't cause an incompatibility in the types of paint? That's what Geniusanthony was referring to earlier on in the thread.
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