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  1. No, you didn't mention it. I did wonder what the original problem was. Funnily enough I was working with two paint brands as well. Someone else (cant' recall who, they had been recommended) in a slightly different shade of blue, then Tamiya's mica blue and gun metal grey on top. I'm familiar with scotch brite pads as we used to use them to clean weapons. I'm guessing that superfine would be the grade to go for?
  2. That's a bit of a bonus. I've done a load of hunting around on Ebay and Amazon and cannot find anything cheaper. With any bit of luck, due to the time of year I may find something on sale at B&Q. Your point about dust and fibres made me realise: If I cut into a carboard box to fashion it into shape, that will send dust/debris everywhere. So a challenge to dampen that down. So I have discounted that option as it would be too fiddly making it dust free. I've never heard that one about warming up spray cans before. I'll have to give that a try.
  3. That is one smooth and shiny paint job at the end there! I now know the finish I have to aim for. so first coat, just a light fog?
  4. Yes, done. I've ordered that along with the stickers and paint from time tunnels. Included a roll of masking tape to ensure I qualified for free delivery. So it etches the surface? Fair enough, I sometimes wondered what the purpose of primer was. Tad miffed this wasn't mentioned when I bought the kit, particularly bearing in mind I made a point of going out of my way to get it from a shop. A good example of a business missing an up sell opportunity to provide better value for the customer.
  5. This is a brilliant suggestion thank you. Although it has inspired me to think of alternative that should save £21 in beer tokens: I have a fairly large sturdy cardboard box kicking around waiting to be recycled. I should be able to figure out a way to re-purpose it for the role with judicious use of a stanley knife.
  6. Well I'd now like to make a little speech and it goes something like 'AAaargghh!!'! Why wasn't any of this mentioned in the instructions? Sounds like you're all absolutely right and I've wasted a load of paint, masking stickers and time. Oh well, all part of the process. The good news is that as suggested I have managed to get what I needed at Time tunnel models: primer, mica blue and sticker sheet. While they're on their way, I can see how well the paint will come off and prep the surface properly. I also have an idea as to how I can cover the body while the paint is drying to protect it from dust and hair settling. Thank you all.
  7. Ok, here's the thing. I came to paint the shell for my clod build. So I did several coats of the mica blue, allowing them to dry between each coat. When that was done I cut out and fixed the masking stickers and a couple of plastic bags to protect the main section of the body from over spray. Then I did a couple of coats of the gun metal grey for the rear section. The bags, sticker on the tailgate and stickers on one side all came away ok. but peeling away the masking stickers on the left side they took away large sections of the mica blue paint with them, leaving nothing but the bare plastic shell behind and a few patches of blue where the masking clearly hadn't stuck quite as well. Clearly I need to start from scratch all down the left side now. This leaves me with some questions, so some advice would be appreciated. Where the heck did I go wrong to start with? Do I need to remove the patches of paint that are left to start with a clean slate? If so, what's the best technique to get back to a decent surface? Would it have been worth starting with a primer before the blue? Where is the best place to source a replacement sticker sheet? I've find it listed in modelsport.com for about £16, but it's out of stock and I don't fancy waiting eons for them to get it to me.
  8. So as you can see, having originally discredited my original assertion, he finally signs of with something along the lines of, "That's odd, dunno how that could have happened. Oh well." This was a setback that I could have done without.
  9. Hi Totally bizarre that, thanks for those pictures. I cannot understand how with the many thousands of these parts produced over the years this is the only ones that have come up. I don’t think the answer will ever be known…… Let me know if you need any more help in the future. Best regards, Colin. From: Sent: 13 August 2019 13:39 To: Colin Subject: RE: Re: Fw: Tamiya Clodbuster Hi Colin, Thank you for confirming. Here are the two other photos that I took with the relevant bits circled in red. As you can see the nipples on my parts are 180 degrees away from where they need to be. As you pointed out in your earlier reply to Mayoor, it is genuinely surprising that something like this could crop up in such a well established kit such as the clod. This little situation set my build back a bit, but I am making progress once again. Once I have attached the steering rods, I can mount both assemblies on the chassis. Best regards,
  10. (You can see how the example above differs from my photo posted 6th August).
  11. Hi Image attached as requested, hope this helps, I have only ever received 1 image but that’s all I needed…..been building these kits for too long!!! Feel free to send me your other images. With regards to date codes on the sprue, possibly but I’ve never had to check before. Out of interest I did some more checking, this part was first used on the original Clod Buster way back in 1987 and hasn’t changed since. Also used on the Bullhead kit from 1990 amongst others. Glad you have rotated the axle shafts already, enjoy the rest of the build. Best regards, Colin. From: Sent: 13 August 2019 11:53 To: Colin Subject: Fwd: Re: Fw: Tamiya Clodbuster Thanks Colin, Did you also receive the two photos showing the axle tubes end on? Would you be able to send us photos of the axle tubes indicating the position of the nipple in relation to the screw hole at the other end of the tube? what you describe below is exactly the problem that I encountered. I originally fitted the axle tubes to the gearbox shell without much consideration as lining the parts up was clearly what the nipple was for and would only allow me to fit them one way round. As explained, it was when I came to mount the axle stays that I realised that something was wrong and that all four tubes needed to be rotated by 180 degrees in order for me to continue. The arrows on the sprue should presumably indicate the date or batch of manufacture? Best regards,
  12. ----- Original Message ----- From: Colin To: mayoor Cc: rob Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2019 10:10 AM Subject: RE: Tamiya Clodbuster Hi Mayoor. As you probably know, Tamiya kits are incredibly detailed and rigorously tested so I was very surprised to read your email, especially as this version of the Super Clod Buster has been in production for over 15 years!!! The picture you have sent me is of the plastic ‘sprue’ that holds the 2 axle tubes together in the moulding process. I have picked up a pair from our warehouse along with the gearbox sides and they fit together perfectly and correctly with the nipple in place. This nipple is there to ensure that they are installed correctly so that section 30 of the instruction manual showing the attachment of parts BP2 and BP3 can be completed. I can only think that with the removal of the nipple that they are now upside down as the actual part hasn’t changed at all in all of the years in production. Please advise your customer that he needs to rotate these axle tubes 180 degrees to ensure the mounting holes for section 30 are to the top, not bottom. The nipple is only a guide, it doesn’t matter that he has remove them at all as the axle tubes are mounted and held in place by 4 nuts and bolts. So no replacement parts are required. I have attached 3 pictures showing the parts together still on the sprue, our showroom Super Clod Buster showing the parts in place and section 30 of the manual. If your customer is certain that the part is incorrect please could I have some pictures of his axle tubes in place on his gearbox casings for me to see. Let me know if you require any more help or information. Best regards, Colin. From: mayoor Sent: 09 August 2019 13:14 To: Colin Subject: Tamiya Clodbuster Hi Mayoor, I am away at the moment and my emails are sparadic. If you contact Colin at the MK office, he will be able to help you prior to my return. Email the customer issue to colin Hello Colin Rob has asked me to contact you as one of my customers is have a small problem with the Clodbusteer a bought from me a couple of weeks ago. Here is what he said > From: > Email: > > ------------------------------------------------------ > > Hello there. Back in July I came in and bought a Tamiya clodbuster and > accessories from you. I am sure you remember? How are things with you? You > will be pleased to know that the build has been progressing well up to > now. > As it is my first foray into model building I am finding it surprisingly > addictive. I am pleased to say that I have made only two mistakes in the > build up until now and both of those were while building the gearboxes. > > However, one thing which I thought was a third mistake turned out to be a > flaw in the kit. When attaching the axles to the gearbox shells, there is > a > nipple to guide the axle on a specific way round. This is so that a screw > hole is in the right place in order to attach the axle stay later on. > However what I found was that in my case, the nipple is 180 degrees away > from where it needs to be. This means that with it in place you cannot > build > the transmission correctly. I tried various things - including inquiring > on > the Tamiya club forum - and was left with no option other than to cut the > nipples off with a stanley knife. I have taken photos showing what I mean, > and the date stamp on the parts tree. Would you be able to forward these > on > to Tamiya for me, to see what the problem is and perhaps they send > replacement parts? Many thanks, I will send the photos shortly. Please do what ever is necessary. Regards Mayoor Monarch Models
  13. I didn't get as far as Tamiya PLC, unfortunately. Only the Hobbyco the UK distributors and TBH, I wasn't exactly impressed with their response. There was more than a hint of suggesting that either I was telling porkies or was a complete moron. I shall post the email trail below. The photos I sent them were the ones that I have already posted above. To give them the benefit of the doubt, the first reply was based on only having received one photo for some reason, as not all had been forwarded on. Surnames and email addresses have been redacted.
  14. Wow, it looks like my over research and preparation into this has somewhat backfired. Perhaps I should have stuck to rtfm? Looking at them this morning, the 3 stickers on the chassis look worse than they did last night. This leaves me the option of either leaving them off, or getting a replacement sheet. A quick search on eBay brings up one at £18. So do I have no use for the micro set, micro sol or liquid film? If not, that’s another £16 I didn’t need to spend. Oh well! Kev, you mention soapy water; I take it a drop of washing up liquid in a dish of warm water will do? Is this just to help it slide into position? Thanks for the link to the video Juggular. That makes it look straightforward. I see what he does with snipping the end of the backing paper off. It gets it out the way. Also, you mention Lexan bodies. What are those, is that another make?
  15. Ok, this is my first foray into an R/C build and it came to a stage for affixing some decals to the chassis. So I watched several youtube videos on the matter and equipped myself with: hobby knife, micro set, detail paint brushes, cotton buds, kitchen towel, reverse action blunt ended tweezers and a dish of warm water. In the videos the decal slid neatly off the backing paper and on to the model where it could be slid into place. That's not quite what happened with me. No matter how long or short I soaked the decal in the water for, all that happened was that the blue backing paper turned into a mush and wouldn't come away from the decal. The three decals I now have on my clod look an embarrassing mess and have stuck on with a varying degree of success. Simple question, where am I going wrong please?
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