Apollo11

Hi there, I am hoping for a bit of steering in the right direction. Because I wasn't happy with how my lexan body turned out, I ordered a replacement so that I could have another go. I used the score and snap technique to remove the excess, which worked well. As well as sanding down the rough edges. I later keyed the inside with some fine paper so the paint would hold properly and that gave a decent finish for the most part. What I wasn't happy with was the intricate corners in the shell where the excess was hard to remove. I didn't get a smooth curve and in a couple of places the shell cracked which was really not good. The other point was that I had trouble getting an even spray into the smaller recesses in the shell (like where the horizontal and vertical planes of the rear spoiler join for example). So before I proceed, my questions are twofold: 1) How do I remove the excess shell when it goes into a tight point? I now have a handheld drill (like a Dremell). Would drilling a small hole in the excess then sanding what is left the way to go? 2) How do I get an even coat of paint into the inner recesses? Would a separate pot and a small brush do the job? Many thanks.

Having decided this was the cheapest, minimal fuss option, this is what I’ve gone for in the first instance. Thank you. if I decide not having a switch is a drawback after all, I’ll look into getting one.

While installing a Quickrun ESC into my hotshot, I found that because the switch was a different shape to the original ESC, it wouldn't mount in the hole without a little modification. With the switch rubber fixed in place using a glue gun, I then did something that I now realise wasn't so smart after all. I tried to fit the switch in place by some further use of the glue gun. Unfortunately it appears that enough of the glue managed to find its way inside the switch as to prevent it making a contact and now the ESC is completely dead. I have cleaned out the switch as best I can using isopropyl alcohol, unfortunately to no avail. With the switch cover off, I have found that if I short a couple of points on the switch circuit, the ESC comes to life. This leaves me with the following options as a next course of action: Complain to modelsport that the ESC is faulty and try and wangle a replacement Solder together the two points on the circuit thus bypassing the switch. Cut the leads and join the two relevant ones together (there are three leads) Buy a replacement ESC switch (I have seen a replacement for about £10 inc delivery) plus wire connectors buy another ESC Head down the Winchester until it all blows over With regards to option 4, is there anything that I need to bear in mind when choosing what I need and I am open to recommendations? What would folks suggest?

Nice, I see. Fortunately I don't think that will be necessary, which is a bonus. Unfortunately the motor is mounted in a much more exposed position on the supershot and with vent holes all the way around, there wasn't much I could do with positioning it to prevent dirt ingress. I did look into motor dust covers, but they were all listed in the states or Japan and I knew shipping would take ages and be prohibitively expensive. But then I came up with a cunning plan. I bought some aquarium filter foam on Ebay for a few quid. I'll cut a section off that, wrap it around the motor and hold it in place with zip ties. That will filter the dirt out, but allow the motor to vent the way it needs to in order to keep cool. Depending on how I get on, I may soak the foam in a little light oil to make it a more effective filter. What do you reckon?

Would they? Pity. Never mind, I have converted them to jpegs, so this should work ok:

Wow, thank you for confirming. I thought that might be the case, but as you can imagine, didn't want to pull on the connectors and risk damaging the motor. As you can see from the photos, having taken one off, it's much easier than I feared. The connector comes off to reveal a male bullet connector that the female end of the ESC cable fits on to. So no soldering required at all. My main concern now is the vent holes on the motor. Clearly they're there to aid cooling, but I'm concerned about grime getting in. Would it be a bad thing to cover them with stickers? Failing that, the super stock motors came with sponge boots that covered the end bell. Is something like that available separately? 20201123_085021690_iOS.heic 20201123_085041591_iOS.heic

Thank you. I got both of these: the ESC with a Deans connector, a 10.5T speed passion v3.0 plus a 5100maH Nimh battery to go with the ESC. It has a Deans-Tamiya adaptor so I can still use the slow charger. My fast charger came with a multitude of connectors, so that's not a problem. The issue I have now is it's not clear to me how to connect the ESC to the motor? Do those connectors pull out of the end of the motor for soldering to the ESC cables? Do I need anything else, as I need to refer back to modelsport anyway as I have realised the sensor cable I chose it too short anyway. Bit disappointed the motor doesn't come with even the most basic of manuals or have even a website to refer to (unless I am mistaken?). But such is a challenge.

I ordered a Hobbywing Quickrun ESC and a Speed passion V3.0 motor, which arrived today, along with a sensor cable20201118_194235944_iOS.heic. Thing is these connectors don't look like they are supposed to go together. Am I missing something?

Thanks, that looks pretty useful. As it is, I've got this one: https://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=443330

Thank you, that's most informative. I did a search and found a few other comments about the the Tamiya connectors melting. Also Modelsport have removed that connector from the options, which is telling. I'd rather stick to Nimh as that is the type of charger that I have, rather than moving over to Lipo also as I understand that means further considerations. However, I don't seem able to find a 7.2V battery with a Deans connector that is 5000maH. The highest is 3000. I reckoned that a drop in capacity would limit the run time further if the ESC is going to draw more current. Any ideas why that would be please?

I'm in a similar situation. I have built a super hotshot with the GT motor and ESC that came with the kit. I'm now considering taking it up a notch. Would this be too much? https://www.modelsport.co.uk/absima-brushless-combo-set-thrust-bl-eco-1-10/rc-car-products/404844 Or would a BZ 23T motor be a better option? Then again would an ESC upgrade be worthwhile? I'm using Nimh batteries at the moment. Is this brushless kit available with the right type of connector? Many thanks.

Thank you. I've got one now. It took a little while as I grabbed what I thought was a bargain on Ebay. But the seller had made a **** up on the listing and sent a pair of ladies hot pants instead. fortunately when I pointed this out, he swiftly provided a full refund. Getting to keep the hot pants would be a bonus if I had any use for them. I was a little frustrated about the mem function. It just seems to scroll forwards. It's difficult to go back to a more recent reading. But never mind. I wrapped black electrical tape around the axle, leaving the bevel clear for the laser. Using the same AA battery, these are the readings I took on both motors: Motor A Motor B Forward 7375 8375 Reverse 4933 4593 I was a little surprised at the difference in performance between the two. I got similar results each time I repeated it. One motor was consistently fast than the other. What I am planning on doing is adjusting the timing of motor A to get it as fast as possible in reverse. Then adjusting the timing of motor B to match it forwards. How closely do I have to actually get the two to match in order for it to work in the Clod?

Yes, I see the point now. No point in buying kits with an ESC that is quickly going to go in the bin. Pity they don't do the same with cans or bearings.

I spoke too soon. I took it for another run this afternoon and although faster, I still faced disappointment. So what I did was reverse the way the motor is wired, so it is now: yellow - yellow and blue - green. I then flicked the switch on the transmitter to reverse throttle operation. Just as TurnipJF suggested. this was much better. It was much more fun and I was able to do wheelies, something it wouldn't do before. This lead me to think that I had somehow connected the esc to the receiver in reverse. So this evening I opened up the chassis again. Only I could not have done as the tab on the esc keys into a notch on the receiver. Although I have a work around, I am perplexed as to how this could have happened?

Thanks guys. The good news is that you can ignore everything in my original post. The esc manual that I had followed was one posted on the web and was in German, so a tad difficult to follow. Fortunately I came across my original one and so was properly able to rtfm. I've gone through the High Point Setup process as described. I've not put it back together yet, but as far as I can tell from running with the wheels off the table, it seems to been running on full tap.

I've just completed my build of a super hot shot and took it out for a run at the weekend. My first impressions? Well I was distinctly underwhelmed by its speed and started to consider upgrades. But then I realised that it goes significantly faster in reverse than it does forwards. I doubt very much that the motor is retarded rather than tuned, so can only imagine that the most likely explanation is that I haven't set it up right. It's a standard setup from the kit, so consists of: GT Sport 25T motor TBLE-02S ESC Absima CR2SV2 transmitter/receiver I have consulted manuals for the esc and the transmitter, but they have been less than informative. The other explanation is that there is something horribly wrong with the build of the gearboxes and transmission. So to eliminate that possibility, I switched the wiring of the motor around and tested it again. It did the same thing, but obviously in reverse. What do I need to do please?

Oh ****. Well, as they say 'Act in haste, repent in leisure'. Thank you for the insight. I see those tachometers are around £12 on Ebay. Are they straightforward to use?

Thank you for all your advice, photos of the finished result are at the end of my other thread: The good news is that the paintwork and stickers have very nicely stood up to a load of thrashing and bashing out in the local woods. Unfortunately that is with the exception of a couple of corners that have lifted away. My question is, what's the best to get them to stick down again?

Ok, I've purchased a Hobbywing Quicrun 880 ESC and looking at the user guide, it has these specs: see attached. What exactly is the motor limit telling me? I have a pair of Super Stock Motor type-BZ (23T) and a 5000mah NimH stick. Simple question, will this work? Scan.pdf

I'm not going to claim that it's perfect. Some lessons learned for future reference. But as promised, here are some photos of the finished article.

I've got the hang of the score and snap technique for removing the excess around the lexan body. For the round holes I plan to use a 3mm drill bit. Although I am wondering if hand held would be safer, or if fitting it to the drill would result in a smoother finish? However my main question is what is the best method for cutting out the more rectangular shaped slots? I have tried using a modelling knife, but it takes ages and produces a really jagged finish.

Thank you. The pinions are the standard ones that came with the motor. I'll look out for replacing those if need be. The kit was built using sealed bearings throughout. I've done a search and read the instruction sheet that came with the Super Stock Motor and there's no mention of timing. So I think we're ok on that front.

Just that ESC, or the motors as well? What do you mean by 4S btw?

So that would work then? And not put too much strain on the transmission and the like? I'm happy to stick with Nimh, at least for the time being. At the risk of asking a bone question, what is this advanced timing? I've read it mentioned before, but don't understand what it is. I think I get what you're referring to re: one axle pushing/pulling the other: if the two motors aren't in sync, then one would be running faster than the other.

Assuming these motors will be ok in my Clod, would this be a suitable ESC for them? https://www.modelsport.co.uk/hobbywing-quicrun-0880-dual-motor-brushed-esc-80a-waterproof/rc-car-products/440053