Apollo11
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Posts posted by Apollo11
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Right folks, thanks for all the guidance. It has been really useful. I have very nearly finished the Clod. All the body paint work is finished and the stickers are on. I am just waiting for the paint on the spot lights to cure properly before I put them on and apply those stickers. When it is complete I'll upload some final photos. I'm conscious of a couple of mistakes so I won't claim it's 100%, but I am still pleased with the result overall. The bits I found trickiest was the detailing the window surrounds.
I've enjoyed this challenge so much, that I went and bought a super hot shot as my next build. Something to stop me going nuts during the lock down. I watched a couple of Youtube videos on spraying the inside of the body. One of them mentions rubbing the body with 1000 grit sand paper - omitting any windows - to give the paint something to key on to. But this is not mentioned elsewhere. What are peoples' thoughts on this?
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On 2/26/2020 at 8:22 AM, jonboy1 said:
If you put acrylic paint on - especially in very thin lines or small details - and then spray a non-acrylic clear coat on afterwards, the solvents in the spray will dissolve the acrylic paint and make it bleed and/or run. Not what you want. So always do your detail painting like vents, window trim etc after the clear coat. You can always go over them with an acrylic clear with a brush afterwards to protect them.
Great, thanks for the heads up. If you hadn't explained that one, I would have left the clear coat until last and ruined the detailing as a result.
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Will do, duly noted. Why the clear coat first? I had expected that to go on last, after the black in the vents. I've got some thin brushes, so I'll use them.
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On 2/3/2020 at 10:38 PM, Apollo11 said:
Right folks. Having completed the following steps over time, I am pleased to report the results:
1. Used the B&Q paint stripper to get the old paint off.
2. Used some Tamiya liquid surface primer to fill in the scratches where I had been over exuberant.
3. bought a B&Q PVC greenhouse to use as a spray booth.
4. In spray booth, used a can of Humbrol Acrylic spray primer to build up numerous thin base layers.
5. Got through two cans of Tamiya mica blue spraying from various angles to ensure an even spread, this is the first colour completed:
(Annoyingly the flash makes the sides look uneven when it's fine in the flesh.
it's the 2nd photo I'm referring to. But I like the idea of making the vents black. Thanks, I'll give that a go.
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As I'm now doing the gun metal grey section at the back, the bonnet and cab area are masked over. But looking at the photos again, I'm now having second thoughts about the paint finish in the air intake under the windscreen. Would it be possible and worthwhile to take a scalpel and scrape out the bits of paint left from the original attempt and spray that area again?
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Cool, got the link now thank you. Looks good. Incidentally I am viewing on a Desktop. But I'm not seeing your signature?
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48 minutes ago, geniusanthony said:
If you click down below and find the Blackfoot videos I had a whole saga of getting my BF CR01 just right.
Sorry, click where? I've looked but don't find it.
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19 hours ago, geniusanthony said:
Not as long as the base coat has cured thoroughly. You used TS (lacquer based) paint which cures relatively fast. I used the same mountain peak masking sheets on my coral and purple Super Clod, you'll find that the stripe border will help to conceal the masked edge a bit too. When it comes time to decal do you know about the soapy water/ window cleaner trick for extra positioning time?
That's a relief. I applied the masking sheets on Sunday and the last coat went on the previous weekend. So it had plenty of time to cure. I've now taped on a spare plastic bag to cover the rest of the cab from over spray. I'm now going to have wait for the weather to calm down before the next layer.
yes, I watched an informative youtube video that demonstrated the soapy water trick. I used the technique when applying the masking sheets. Partly to make sure I got them lined up correctly. But also to practice applying the technique before taking on the stickers. it worked rather well. Not familiar with the window cleaner trick, what's that? is it much the same thing?
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7 hours ago, geniusanthony said:
I didn't catch where you were from, something to keep in mind regarding the annoyance is that we are now in a rtr world. It seems very few outside of the Tamiya community even bother painting their own shells, all over FB you see questions like, will this body fit this car etc...when in reality the only variables to what fits are dimensions that are usually stated if one is willing to read a bit of documentation.
In the end, clear coat or not, the choice is left up to the builder in determining the path that they want to take. The only benefit to clear is sealing the edges of the decals and evening out the gloss due to the inherent black magic of painting with spray cans.
Point is, you can't be sour at the shop because they probably don't know any better, again b/c of this rtr world we live in.
I'm in the UK. Ironic that the world has gone down the rtr route. Back when I was surrounded by r/c cars, it was the Tamiyas that ruled and anything pre-assembled was treated with scorn. Perhaps it's linked to the general dumbing down of society? I'm not interested in an rtr model as it's the challenge of the build that I was after anyway, as I had been denied the opportunity first time round.
As for the shop I bought the kit from, I had made a special point of seeking out a specialist r/c store. The guy's been running it for 20 years and has always only broken even (so he says anyway). He's stocked with numerous r/c kits, radio sets, tools, spares, paints, that sort of thing. Although he does focus more on the flying models and teaches regularly in a nearby field.
It was clear I was buying everything I needed from scratch, so to some extent he missed out on a few upsell opportunities.
On another note, earlier today I fixed the masking stickers in readiness for spraying the gun metal grey detailing at the back of the truck. But it got too dark before I had a chance to do the spray. the masking will need to be peeled off when I am done. Will leaving it on too long be bad for the base paint?
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And that won't cause an incompatibility in the types of paint? That's what Geniusanthony was referring to earlier on in the thread.
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Thanks, I think it looks great even if I do say so myself. I can't take credit for the choice of colour, I merely went with the theme stated in the kit. There are some stencils for adding some gun metal grey to the rear of the body, which I need to do next.
Thanks for mentioning the clear lacquer, I would have overlooked that. For the avoidance of doubt, to be clear, the TS13 clear lacquer is the last to go on after all the coats and before the stickers?
It's annoying none of this was mentioned in the kit or by the shop I bought it from.
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Thanks. I know it doesn't look 100% in the photos due to the unevenness from the flash, but in the flesh it looks a deep smooth blue colour. Not a high gloss shine, but I'm happy with that. My one regret is that that Tamiya surface primer was really watery. This made it easy to apply, but I should have gone to more layers to fill in those scratches better. They are still evident in some places. Too late now though.
With the first coats I quickly realised that the spray wasn't reaching in the tighter spots behind the cab, I sprayed a bit into a cleaned margarine tub and applied it using a small brush. Then I used the following spray coats to even out the brush marks, which worked rather well.
Now I need to move on to the next stage. Hopefully the stencils won't take the paint off and undo all my careful efforts this time round. As there was pauses between each spraying session, all things considered this stage has taken more time and effort than the rest of the build combined. But then it really has been a learning process.
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Right folks. Having completed the following steps over time, I am pleased to report the results:
1. Used the B&Q paint stripper to get the old paint off.
2. Used some Tamiya liquid surface primer to fill in the scratches where I had been over exuberant.
3. bought a B&Q PVC greenhouse to use as a spray booth.
4. In spray booth, used a can of Humbrol Acrylic spray primer to build up numerous thin base layers.
5. Got through two cans of Tamiya mica blue spraying from various angles to ensure an even spread, this is the first colour completed:
(Annoyingly the flash makes the sides look uneven when it's fine in the flesh.
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I've been away for a couple of weeks so not progressed this for a while. As the scratches are very shallow, I reckoned a water based filler that can be painted on would be easiest to work with? For example this product available from Amazon: https://smile.amazon.co.uk/Vallejo-Model-Color-Plastic-Putty/dp/B000PHCNLC/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Vallejo+Plastic+Putty&qid=1571170058&sr=8-1
That notwithstanding, I also notice that Tamiya produce putty and liquid primers. Is this because they are a load of rubbish, or people just don't prefer them?
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Right folks,
After having to put this on hold for a bit, I've made so more progress. I got a tub of the paint stripper from B&Q: https://www.diy.com/departments/home-strip-paint-stripper-500ml/254572_BQ.prd
as recommended by Jonboy. Thank for the recommendation, that does work really well. Plus, as a bonus it is quite pleasant to use. The smell isn't too strong and goes on easily. I've got most of the paint off now, and will need to do a 2nd coat to get some of the stubborn bits off.
The trouble is, the instructions recommended a scraper which worked well for the most part. Unfortunately in a couple of places the edges of the scraper caused some scratches. My question now is, would sufficient layers of primer then paint smooth out these scratches ok, or have I ruined the body and would be better off starting again with a replacement one? (Not doing too well here, but I knew this was one area I would struggle with most).
When I have a moment, I could post photos.
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4 hours ago, geniusanthony said:
I don't know if I ever covered it in the vid but my problems early on had to do with the incompatibility of the different kinds of paints, Eg, Urethane Enamel(which was the custom mix) and the Lacquer primer. Tamiya TS spays are to my knowledge all lacquer based, Which is great because they go on thin, dry quickly to a hard finish and are durable.
To answer your question, yes, thin coats always to avoid runs. Keep it clean and keying the surface (green Scotch-Brite pad) aids adhesion as well.
For those that didn't know, those 3M scotch pads come in 5 colors with 5 levels of abrasive. Quality auto store should carry them, worldwide I would presume... because 3M.
No, you didn't mention it. I did wonder what the original problem was. Funnily enough I was working with two paint brands as well. Someone else (cant' recall who, they had been recommended) in a slightly different shade of blue, then Tamiya's mica blue and gun metal grey on top.
I'm familiar with scotch brite pads as we used to use them to clean weapons. I'm guessing that superfine would be the grade to go for?
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That's a bit of a bonus. I've done a load of hunting around on Ebay and Amazon and cannot find anything cheaper. With any bit of luck, due to the time of year I may find something on sale at B&Q.
Your point about dust and fibres made me realise: If I cut into a carboard box to fashion it into shape, that will send dust/debris everywhere. So a challenge to dampen that down. So I have discounted that option as it would be too fiddly making it dust free.
I've never heard that one about warming up spray cans before. I'll have to give that a try.
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18 hours ago, geniusanthony said:
@Apollo11
I agree with all of the above and can add the following moving picture show. I nearly ruined a Blackfoot with several problems during painting. Eventually got it. See here
That is one smooth and shiny paint job at the end there! I now know the finish I have to aim for. so first coat, just a light fog?
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45 minutes ago, GooneyBird said:
Don't forget primer. This etches the surface and makes the paint stick way better. Tamiya Fine Surface Primer is what I use, though any reasonably fine primer should work. (So not the stuff you'd use to paint a shed.
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Yes, done. I've ordered that along with the stickers and paint from time tunnels. Included a roll of masking tape to ensure I qualified for free delivery.
So it etches the surface? Fair enough, I sometimes wondered what the purpose of primer was.
Tad miffed this wasn't mentioned when I bought the kit, particularly bearing in mind I made a point of going out of my way to get it from a shop. A good example of a business missing an up sell opportunity to provide better value for the customer.
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1 hour ago, jonboy1 said:
If you go to B&Q looking for the paint stripper, may I suggest going to the garden section and seeing if they have anything like this on sale:
https://www.diy.com/departments/plastic-2-tier-mini-growhouse/177872_BQ.prd
they make brilliant spray booths
This is a brilliant suggestion thank you. Although it has inspired me to think of alternative that should save £21 in beer tokens: I have a fairly large sturdy cardboard box kicking around waiting to be recycled. I should be able to figure out a way to re-purpose it for the role with judicious use of a stanley knife.
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Well I'd now like to make a little speech and it goes something like 'AAaargghh!!'! Why wasn't any of this mentioned in the instructions? Sounds like you're all absolutely right and I've wasted a load of paint, masking stickers and time. Oh well, all part of the process.
The good news is that as suggested I have managed to get what I needed at Time tunnel models: primer, mica blue and sticker sheet. While they're on their way, I can see how well the paint will come off and prep the surface properly. I also have an idea as to how I can cover the body while the paint is drying to protect it from dust and hair settling.
Thank you all.
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Ok, here's the thing. I came to paint the shell for my clod build. So I did several coats of the mica blue, allowing them to dry between each coat. When that was done I cut out and fixed the masking stickers and a couple of plastic bags to protect the main section of the body from over spray. Then I did a couple of coats of the gun metal grey for the rear section. The bags, sticker on the tailgate and stickers on one side all came away ok. but peeling away the masking stickers on the left side they took away large sections of the mica blue paint with them, leaving nothing but the bare plastic shell behind and a few patches of blue where the masking clearly hadn't stuck quite as well.
Clearly I need to start from scratch all down the left side now. This leaves me with some questions, so some advice would be appreciated. Where the heck did I go wrong to start with? Do I need to remove the patches of paint that are left to start with a clean slate? If so, what's the best technique to get back to a decent surface? Would it have been worth starting with a primer before the blue? Where is the best place to source a replacement sticker sheet? I've find it listed in modelsport.com for about £16, but it's out of stock and I don't fancy waiting eons for them to get it to me.
Uprated ESC for Clod
in Monster Trucks, 4x4, Wheelie Rigs and Crawlers
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Before anyone says anything, I will admit that in hindsight this wasn't the smartest of moves. But the thing is that in a fit of youthful exuberance (doesn't happen often) I decided to get the fastest brushed Tamiya motors I could find. So I ordered two Super Stock BZs. Stupidly I didn't check against the spec of the ESC first. Now that one has arrived (two different suppliers as they were low on stock), I see it is 23T. The standard ESC that came with the Clod is rated for motors over 25T. Other than uprated bearings, the Clod is currently as standard. This leaves me with two fundamental questions:
1. How serious a problem is this? (i.e. how much damage would it do to the ESC? Is this far too much motor for the Clod?)
2. What are my options?