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About carparkthrasher

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  • Birthday 04/18/1977

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    High Wycombe, Bucks. UK

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  1. Skottoman, I should just give you my bank details and credit card as your builds always encourage me to spend money way better than any Tamiya advert ever could! Great work and to repeat others, that is a TOP paint job, your patience must go hand in hand with your attention to detail. Keep on trucking!
  2. Problem solved. Fitting Carson steering arm and flipping the uprights not only gave better steering but also cleared the issue I was having. Why Tamiya dont include that in the box............... Simon
  3. Hi all, Playing the long time lurker and no such thing as a silly question card............... Having finally finished the killer of painting and wire work that goes in to an 1850l, the first test drive presented something that I believe to be a know issue but I wondered if there was a solution that didn't involve relocating the steering servo. The issue is that when on the ground (doesn't do it wheels off) and when applying full steer, testing the indicators for example, the wheels turn as far as they can physically but the servo goes a bit further and then locks itself out in a tricky spot past the midway point and unable to return to centre. With forward momentum this isn't an issue so I am guessing that with the weight on the front wheels there is no give from the wheels themselves yet the play in the steering rig allows the servo to keep turning. A quick search here has shown the solution as relocating the steering servo next to the gear shift one like on the US trucks (my other truck is an Aeromax). Whilst I might do this eventually, I just want to be able to run the thing at the remaining shows this year so wonder what my options are - simply to never put on full lock when stationary? Modify the servo with some end stops to prevent it going past the half way mark whilst allowing for the travel that matches the wheels turning? BTW - being a tight old bag of sick I have a basic radio that doesn't allow me to modify end positions.......... In my heart I know that the full solution is to relocate the servo - read some interesting things on here about Ackerman steering but for now, how might I get round this so as to not look like a berk at Wings and Wheels as my lorry gets stuck on full lock and careers through the fences or worst still, Ant's traffic lights! Thanks Simon
  4. Cheers for thoughts all. Skottoman, great piece of work there as always. Gozone, yes measuring the output and matching up LEDs seems sound as well. I figured I would need to do something like that as whatever I do I don't want it to hinder the regular lights in any way.
  5. Hi folks! On the basis of 'no such thing as a silly question'...... What might be the easiest (and cheapest) way of me adding a light to my cab to show the driver? After 3 shows now I have come to realise that when people get interested I tend to pick up the truck to show them and for the kids I like pointing out that I have a Dr Who figure driving - helps break the ice! Problem is that the 'glass' component is heavily tinted on the Aeromax (and my new, in progress second ever truck build) and I wonder if a cheeky light is needed? I HAVEN'T got the MFU, just the lighting kit and I was wondering if I could get a couple of LED or bulb's and wire them up from the existing unit? Like an extra couple of roof spots as it were just inside? So no extra power supplier, switches etc? Maybe have them in the roof above the driver or at dashboard level pointing up? (Like Simon Cowell has on his X factor desk!) I figure like everything it will be a compromise between lighting up everything and showing the wires etc. or just the man but I would like to have a go. Simon (dupe post from Tamiyatruckin so apologies to anyone reading thsi twice!)
  6. Proper job there sir! Very nice indeed and great to work from such a 1:1 source as that!
  7. Beautiful piece of work and thank you so much for sharing the build. I agree with your comment about how enjoyable the build was, even more so when I finished the tanker trailer recently - opening up an 'A' screw bag that has more components in the some builds all together shows how involved these trailers are. Can almost explain why they cost so much. Almost....................... Keep up he great work!
  8. Hi all, Doing my usual long time lerker, occasional poster thing! Having been itching for a new build for a while and seeing some trucks recently at St Albans model engineering show (and many times on line and TC!) I really fancy one of them as my next 'treat myself because work sucks and you cant take your money with you' moment and I feel like buying something. Well, myself and MBNA anyway........... Having been used to this being an expensive hobby I was still a little shocked by how much it costs to get into tractor trucks and trailers! My current thinking is something like 56318 - Scania R470 - yes I know some will think it is missing an axle............ Whilst I know I need 4 ch radio and at least 2 servos and I will ball race from the outset, my attention then focused on the MFC unit which cost so much that I can only assume it has been assembled on the thighs of virgins and flown to modelshops via Pegasus. Whilst this unit adds great realism for running at shows etc. my truck will get occasional outings and as such I was drawn to the light kit - 56501. My questions is - can the light kit be installed in the R470 without losing the interior? I understand the full multi function job does mean sacrificing the interior? Oh and one other question then - motor - was looking at the LRP truck puller or Carson equivalent, mainly to drop the speed down so I don't ding the thing at silly speed. Can these high turn motors run on a basic ESC like the Tamiya ones? Thanks all and with any luck I will post updates and photos as and when I have added to my debt - whilst doing my bit to boost our flagging economy by spending money I don't have just yet. Cheers CPT
  9. Hey! Sorry for delay, I used a CVA short shock but with the spring as supplied with the Hotshot. This combined with the better mouting position of the B parts maeks all the difference.
  10. Hi all! Finally an update on this! As suggested, using the Boomerang B parts works a treat! So the front end now has a CVA shock with B11 and B10 to bring the movement to the more usual - from the out in not halfway along the shock! With the original spring back on it this shock works really well and the nose diving has gone! CPT
  11. Hi all, quick update! A good few weeks ago now (sorry for rubbish updating!) i fitted the 3rd shock mod thanks to some creative dremmeling and guides from this site and I rebuilt the front shock (CVA,oil) to include all the spacers to get rid of the toe in/funny hang from the front. With stiff springs all round and shocks well topped up and re built she goes very well as a recent beach run proved. Have also braced the chassis at front and rear, again folllowing the guides from TC users! Only the hard stuff do I really see any awkward wobble or diving but even then it is all manageable. All just goes to show that searching on here for tips and answers really does pay off. That and actually using the Dremel in action made it all an enjoyable continuation of the build!
  12. UPDATE! Have now got a multimeter and tested at the battery connector and on 2 of them I get around 8.10 and the other 2 both around 3.63. So I am guessing that means the meter just picking up from the cells that work where as the charger reads the whole pack, finds a fault with some and then says NO!
  13. Thanks Backlash, re multimeter, for my sins I dont have one. Am looking at a Draper unit on Amazon to fill that gap in my hardware cupboard! So I guess I am using the meter to pass voltage into and through the pack which will then show if the cells are taking current? Sorry, am very good at some tech but flounder a bit with the basics!
  14. To be honest I probably dishcarged them to around 6.3 (as they are 7 cell packs, 8.4 volts) so 0.9 per cell, on the basis that I would be using them within a couple of weeks! Well, you know how plans change! So could it be that I have wickered them up somehow? Forgive my ignorance but what is the best way to leave them charged to 40%? Run them down then charge them a 1C as normal but stop it at 30 minutes or so? Thanks for speedy reply BTW!
  15. Hi all, Further to recent build weekend, thought I would dust off the EMaxx for some bonkers bashing while letting the paint dry on Blitzer Beetle. So I gather up my chargers and my 4 x 4500 NiMh Orion Rocket Packs with TRX connectors and set about charging them up. Now, these batteries are under a year old and have sat unused for about 3-4 months but have worked well in the past. Setting them up this time however, results almost immediately in an 'Open Circuit' error and the charger then standing down. Chargers all work well, Pro Lux 104 and this error is the same you would get if nothing plugged in, battery wise. I use a TRX to Tamiya adaptor so I tested all of these out with the dinky 1200 stick packs you get with Traxxas 1/16 cars and they work well so it has to be the batteries themselves. However, to have all 4 go has confused me! My best guess is something wrong with the connector or wiring - ends look OK with minimal or no corrosion as these have never been through deep water like some of my packs. Wires seem OK and haven't got obvious breaks in them and through the clear shrink wrap, I can't see anything to horrendous. Any thoughts folks? The batteries came from Modelsport and they also did the install of the TRX ends and these have performed beautifully. What could have gone wrong internally to effectively sever all connections coming out of the stick pack? Your time starts...............now! Thanks! CPT
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