carparkthrasher

Thanks for confirming! CPT

Morning all, Later in February the current Mrs Carparkthrasher is spending a long weekend at a Twilight Convention (don't ask) and to make the most of 3 days on my own (again, no comments please) I have bought the re re Hosthot as I fancied a build weekend and this looked suitable mental as builds go. Now being a sucker for doing what Tamiya tell me, I have acquired a set of the mini pin/spike tyres and wheel set (combination of Europro on the Bay and Modelsport) as shown in the Hop Up section of the box. However, my brain is just a wee bit confused by the box telling me that I need item 53569 to fit the tyres - this is a Clamp Type Aluminium wheel hub 6mm. Now, am I being daft but the clamp type is just a different way of it fitting, more secure I guess? I found a regular plastic hub from my 'spare plastic' drawer and with callipers it measures nearer 6mm than 5 so does this mean a regular set of hubs that would come with any other kit are OK for the job with these wheels? Or the metal versions, model number has escaped me that are identical to the plastic ones only in metal! Can anyone out there running the option wheels just confirm for me what they have done, wheel hub wise? Ta much and happy Monday. CPT

I don't doubt it! IIRC Tamiya made a promotional video for the 3 speeds first time round showing a gang of them towing a 1:1 hilux or similar. It crossed my mind breiefly but didnt want my precious clod getting run over, especially by a hairdressers car! Her situation was solved by brute force, grit and a snow shovel. Oh and some very manly frowning that she tried to take on the snow rally that was our road in an upholstered roller skate.

Ah of course! I did dabble with a modded Clod a while back but couldn't give it the love it needed so it went on the bay. I do like the stock look and the 'whacky' handling characteristics!

Sorry to be daft but I get 2 wheel steering but what is BTA steering? Is that a brand or a method? And bounding like a puppy is a perfect description! The front going up and down like mad!

Yes it was only when I looked out the upstairs window that I realised how awesome the tracks looked! Mind you, the same friend who spun around, walked into our house past the drip drying clod yet later asked who had been driving round our garden to make those tracks! Well, you are either RC or not I suppose!

As many of you will know I am not the most ardent of posters but felt compelled to share the following - 'when you absolutely, 100%, have to get out and play in the snow with RC, then accept no substitute and fire up the Clod' My Summit VXL kept shutting down (or getting turned off by weight of snow building up under body), the E Maxx just dug itself in, the snow was too deep for the rally cars and then it hit me, get the beasty out! Because of its size it normally lives in parts in a crate - putting it all back together made me remember what an ace truck it really is! I run mine with 21d motors and 2 ESC's from 2 4500NiMh packs, E Maxx shocks and apart form ball bearings that is about it. For a model that came out in 1987 and spent 20 years unbuilt in a NIB collection by its previous owner, it really did put a smile on my face which is what it is all about! It just kept going, I now have some lovely tracks all over the snow on our front garden and the road as runtime was over 15 minutes! No pictures sadly as that plan was scuppered by a friend of ours spinning her Mazda MX5 (1:1) around the top of our road and needing rescue! Just thought I would share a Clod moment! CPT

As is my wardrobe (according to my fashion concious work mates), honestly whats wrong with courdroy and elbow pads anyway?

Cheers Twinset, I hadn't seen that option - I was looking here http://www.tamiyaclub.com/cars.asp where the colour coding showing manual etc is no longer showing. HAVE ANSWERED OWN QUESTION - I see that the models page no longer mentions manuals. Shall punish myself severely for not looking harder. Ta!

Hi all, Sorry to the mods if this has already been covered or if its me doing something but have the manuals disappeared from the main site? Ta CPT

Have just found the Traxxas own 1/16 wheelie bar so will see how I get on with that!

Thanks Talesin! Great to learn from someone elses endevours! Am thinking of starting off by moving the shocks as you say! I don't want to do anything that may lead to more expense down the line, other than driving it like I stole it, naturally. With the E Revo, which make wheelie bar do you use? Thanks for your time!

Cheers Kaiser, I have looked at those big bores but to me it seems they are not threaded top allow spring adjustment. I have a set of the refular E Maxx shocks on my Clod and I think a lot of people do. They have a nice action!

Hi all, Many apologies for the non Tamiya post but I feel somewhat inadequate on the Traxxas monster forum. As I am not experimenting with twin motors, warp speed batteries or adding enough bling to make Ali G say 'whoa, dats enough', I feel a bit daft asking noob questions! I also find that being in the UK and without a bottomless pot of cash isn't helping. I have an E Maxx and 1/16 E Revo. The E Maxx is stock and with 2 8.4v 4500 batts, more than fast enough for me. My question is with regard to the shocks. I have searched Google as one would expect and find so many different thoughts and opinions. In short I want to try and minimise the squat that the rear of the beast has under acceleration. I appreciate that different shock mounting positions, thicker oil and stiffer springs are all called for but I am not exactly sure in which flavours and combinations! I am just a blat it round the field kind of guy so am not after race winning tech but would like to stop the back end mowing the grass as I tear around! What are you TC E Maxx owners running shock wise? Your opinions on best options etc? The E Revo is the brushless model and out of the box is quite fast and a good crack. Thanks to having several batteries, a series connector and high speed pinion, I would like to run the twin battery option. I am expecting the added weight to have an impact on handling and ability to take jumps etc. Once again, the manual talks about upgrading the shocks and springs but looking into it I find a confusing array of options. Any MERV owners out there who have upgraded their shocks? What are people suggesting? Some help narrowing down my options would be appreciated! Lastly, the colour coding of springs. I take it this is not an industry standard thing? Would green springs made by two different companies have the same rating or not? Cheers all CPT

Hi all, After recently splurging on a Kyosho Ultima DB, I thought I would run the 2 8.4 4500 NiMh stick packs I had lying around (purchased for use in Clod, TXT1 etc). now I am sure I have used theses packs already but when I came to charge them my charger (prolux Digi Charge 104) comes up with an Open Circuit error. All connections are correct and other packs behave OK both using the standard Tamiya connector and a Tamiya to TRX adaptor for charging TRX packs. So in short, all my other packs are fine be they Tamiya or Traxxas connectors, I can choose to ignore the error it would appear by hitting the enter or start button and it seems to go on and charge but I then lose my nerve and turn off in case it is doing something very bad! The only difference I can see is that when I look into the end of the connector on the battery, the pins seem very loose - moving the battery wire makes them move around wildly. My other Tamiya connect batteries are not this loose. Could it be this movement between the male and female pins that is throwing the charger off? Should I look at remaking the connectors? Am I safe to ignore the error? Thanks all CPT

Hi all, My Ultima DB turned up yesterday but thanks to a 2hr long journey home thanks to a seriously messed up A40 at Northolt, I have yet to try the beast out. First impressions is that it looks good, is very light and can't wait to blat it around on the somewhat scorched field outside my house. The kicker is the bodyshell! I appreciate it is tight to try and keep out as much dirt/stones etc as possible but blimey it is a right faff to get off and back on! Has anyone else who has one feel the same or is it just me? 4 clips and a push pull and bend affir.......... To top it off, the ESC switch is deep within the chassis so I know for a fact I will go through all the swearing involved in taking the shell off, putting a battery in, re mounting the shell to then realise I ain't switched her on! Anyway, I will drive her for sure this weekend and actually see it in action rather than just wrestle with it to get the shell off! 'Fingers' CPT

Hi all, Apologies for not offering them here first but I find it so much easier to set up and have more experience using EBay. Item No's 200492561577 & 200492558460 http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...%3D1&_rdc=1 http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...%3D1&_rdc=1 Cheers CPT

Great story, I too am a fan of Modelsport - my very first TL01 some 10 years ago came from them. I like the fact that no matter the size of your order the customer support is always there. In fact, between Modelsport and Time Tunnel (Goldstartsockists) I have not a bad word to say. Whilst I miss the LHS we had in Wycombe, I have to take my hat off to those stores that grabbed the internet in both hands and thrive off of it especiall when they offer such good customer servcie.

Ah thanks for that, good points regarding getting good glue friendly surface. I figured I was on the right track but hadn't quite been as logical as that. Love the King Tiger BTW, nice work. FYI - this tank feels like a static kit that has had a RC upgrade so will be for gentle running only for sure! Cheers

Hi all, Potentially daft question but.................. After fancying a different kind of build I bought the 1/25 Chieftain which is all well and good. What I am finding is, as you might expect, the parts are very wee indeed! What I am pondering is what order to paint things in. Obviously the bottom and upper hull are large enough to do on their own but other components, nearly all of which will need gluing to at least one other part, have got me thinking. Is it best to paint everything on the sprues (hang up in garage for example) and tidy up any flashings etc when assembling, hoping that my gluing is steady and I don't end up removing the paint in the process. Or, do I assemble as many of the components together (glued) and then paint as complete items before bringing all together as the build progresses? I used the first option when building the regular size Pershing but wondered if the second approach was more akin to the static kits which might suit this model better? Just wondered what people thought! Either way I shall have very gluey and green fingers.......... CPT

Thank you both for your thoughts! TamiyaDan, hair dryer, top idea there! I will just have to promise the wife not to get paint on it Willy, thanks for the info and photo, I always know I am going to get great help from TC! I take it the pic is from a trade show of full size cars, is that actually the Tamiya model next to it or someone else's?

Hi All, Have bought myself the Nissan GT-R on the TT01-D type E chassis to have a bit of a crack at drifting now that we have moved somewhere with a nice and quiet and fairly smooth road outside. NOTE - drift tyres supplied aren't the ones mentioned in the specs or on the box - Type D not Driftech but no problem for a starting point, anywho, I digress! My query relates to the paint job! I am going for my usual metallic blue backed with silver but the car has a front grill, rear and side skirt detailing that is black. Now the side skirts can be done through decals supplied but not the front grill and rear part. So, assuming I mask up ok I can do all this through paint. What I would like some opinions on is whether I should mask all the car, leaving exposed the areas to be black, paint those first, then go onto the main body colour before backing it all off with silver or, do the main body colours first after masking off the areas to be black and then back the whole thing with black which will also paint the then exposed areas? Am I making sense? Would backing with black help reduce spill from the lighting I will be installing? If i was to go with option A, before putting any colours on after the black, would you mask it up so as to not be painting the blue over the black in case it has an impact on the colour too much? Would you believe with all the cars I have built, I have never really had one that had such a key are of the finish not done through decals! The decal sheet is packed full of everything else so I am sure one for the front grill wouldn't have been impossible! Thanks CPT

Morning, have uploaded a movie this morning along with the usual 100 pixel thumbnail and this has not gone up and none of my previous efforts are showing yet they have done in the past. Is this something I have done wrong? I see othe rmembers having issues as well where there clearly should be a thumbnail but it hasn't made it up all the way. Thanks CPT

You see, this is why I love this forum. From a simple question you get to pick up so many tips and ideas and share in the experience of others, ace! I too have tried the soap and water trick with some modest success. However, I have found lately that the pre cut decals, on my Fiat 500 for example, seem to have the most evil adhesive ever that once it gets a hint of a solid surface then that's it! Chemically bonded for life! (or you utter some of the worst swear words known to man and rip it off, say 'stupid hobby' and go an make a brew). One then calms down and tries again! I may be imagining it but I am sure that the adhesive used by Tamiya on their decals does vary................

Will give him a go, thanks for the heads up. I will report back how I get on!