carparkthrasher

Hi all! Have now added some lights to my High Lift and thanks to a lot of balloon action waterproofed the units as best I can. Now, what I have found is that all Tamiya lights as wired as pairs which is fine for headlight and tail light use bit their are 5 spots on the roof bar. Currently I have the two outer lights wired from seperate pairs with the other taped up and covered underneath the body - I couldn't bring myself to not have the centre light going! So, my best option with the lights to get all wired would mean getting another set of yellow lights and wiring up the 5 and leaving the 6th covered up. Am I right in thinking that the lights do only come in pairs? Anyone out there with high lift illuminations that can shed som, ehem, light on the subject? Ta much!

Jst to chip in another vote for both Tank's and 3 speeds. I thoroughly enjoyed the build of my Pershing and F350. Oh and yes to the TXT, another good build!

Now that is my kind of driving! Lights to be put in 350 this weekend methinks! Thanks for sharing!

Thanks for your thoughts! Do you mean there might be a danger of shorting? Ta

Hi all, Thanks to an over enthusiastic 'add to basket button' I know have a spare TLU 1 LED set. Back story is I have bought the TT01 Countach which came with a TLU 1 and have since ordered more LEDs and TLU 2 for it to go whole hog. I also bought a second TLU 1 while at it as thought, hey, sure I can use another one somewhere.............. My question is, just how waterproof/resistant are the LED's themselves? Only I would like to use this unit in my high lift as I think it is long over due some lights. However, I only have the one body and do take it swimming quite regularly. I figured I can house the unit itself in a box or go for the balloon approach but with regard to the lights themselves, do you think they can withstand being submerged? Anything I could do to help them out? Cheers all! BTW - this will make you laugh, over weekend I took the 350 out in the garden in the snow and would you believe it, snow managed to get in and burn the unit out! I have driven it through deep water countless times with no problem and the white cold stuff manages to kill it! The servo itself was coated in plasti dip just leaving the very top gear opening itself. I guess a bit of grease would have helped but there we go!

Hi all, After making a complete horlicks with the windscreen decal on my second (shelfer) Fiat 500 bodyshell I am on the look out for a replacement. Yes I could buy a whole other body set but I really do only need the decals. I was just wondering if there was anyone out there who had the car but masked the windows themselves over using the stickers to get the window look. Will gladly exchange liver, first born, man hugs etc if someone can help.................. Simon

Just to chip in at this stage, of course Time Tunnel/Goldstar are actually closing their Stevenage shop come February thanks in large to current economic climate and competition from overseas, let alone Tamiya's own price increase. Shame as I always felt the 2 hour round trip to pop in and see a real person in a real store was well worth it! That same weekend, I headed into DMS Racing in Watford (very UK centric this reply sorry!) and the chap there was telling me that they have pulled back from dealing with Tamiya due to issues with the supply and availability of spares, kind of its alright getting the kits out there but if the support is lacking? Almost seems that Tamiya are making things quite bad on themselves............... Right, now to pack bag for the dreaded return to work tomorrow. Happy 2010 folks.

Hey Willy, yes indeed - I also managed to answer this myself by a case of RTFM. To be fair I had read it but just missed the classsic side box with use XXX when short wheelbase etc! Have built the chassis up today, my the TT01 feels more plasticy than most (almost cheap!) but wont be driven much so not such a problem. Cheers

Firstly, Happy New Year to all! Secondly, a Countach question! After a visit to Time Tunnel today I came away with a Countach TT01E - childhood fantasy being lived out plus I need a build for this long weekend! I know I need to build it in short wheel base spec but can anyone confirm whether I need to build it using the long wheel axle option as per step 8 of the manual? Is this longer unit what gives the impression of the larger wheel at the back and fills the arches out more? Cheers all and enjoy the rest of the holidays! Simon

Well, being a devout coward (and brushless virgin) I have stuck with brushed but gone down the 550's route - I was running 2 HPI GT's and then Traxxas Titan's. I had been using a Kyosho Perfex ESC and that worked fine but wasn't waterproof so I went for a Traxxas EVX-2 and now the thing has a mind of it's own and is the subject of a forum post of its own! Bottom line IMHO, 2 motors but run 550's at 16.8 - a good place to start for sure! CPT

Anybody have any thoughts? Ta much

Hi all! Right, it's Sunday morning so the law says that we go to the park, drive RC cars until batteries run out then go get bacon sandwich at the café, feed the ducks then go home. Job done. However, today was the first outing for my newly tweaked TXT-1 and sadly I encountered some oddities! Info - TXT-1 2 x Traxxas Titans 550 (newly installed) (formerly HPI GT) Traxxas EVX-2 ESC (newly installed) (formerly Kyosho Perfex) - wanted waterproof ESC 2 x 3300 NiMh Acoms RX Standard Acoms servo Now, it had moments of driving perfectly but most of the time it was twitching like a good un and at worst driving itself. What I discovered was that moving the throttle stick would engage drive as expected, however, when steering (tended to be when full lock applied) forward drive would also be engaged - i.e. both sticks were having an effect on the motors! Now the install is good as far as I can see, all connections are in the right place, no exposed wires etc and it is not a range issue. The only thing different, electrics wise, between this and my EMaxx is the radio gear so I'm thinking - Is the Traxxas EVX only happy with a Traxxas radio? Would giving the RX it's own power supply help? What could be causing my steering servo to interfere with the ESC? Thanks in advance for thoughts! Simon

Thanks Terry, that's exactly what I wanted - an assurance I wasn't going mad and a bit of clear advice. So, do you think my EMaxx was built with slightly the wrong parts or would it be that the speed difference is not large enoguh for the bloke who built it to worry about using reverse motors? Have they made reverse ones just to fit the E Revo? Simon

Anybody out there got a thought? Really value some second opinions! Ta Simon

Hi all! Thanks to a pleasant pay rise and an itchy buy it now finger, I now have 2 Traxxas EVX-2 ESC's for my Tamiya twin motor/batt trucks. So far so good. My question relates to reverse rotation motors. Now one of the ESC's I bought was out of an ERevo and came with 2 motors, one normal and one reverse as the set up of he E Revo dictates that it has to be this way as motors run opposite. My Emaxx however, came with reverse rotation motors - 3975r yet in the manual it is only listed as 3975 and no mention of reverse rotation. My head hurts a bit so bear with me but.............if I have got 2 motors that have been reversed so the advance timing is now in relation to revers and these are installed into an EMaxx, am I technically running motors that are now faster in reverse than forwards? If I was to put in non reverse rotation 550s would I see a speed increase when blatting along forwards? For me the EMaxx is quick enough but I have replaced my Kyosho ESC in my TXT-1 and have put in the EVX and was planning to replace my HPI GT550's with Traxxas units. When run with the HPI's in place, directions were backwards leading me to think that the EVX ESC has been designed to expect reverse rotation motors? Am I making any sense? Ok short bullet points! 1) Is it normal for an EMaxx to have reverse rotation motors? 2) Is the EVX wired specially for reverse rotation motors - when first running in TXT with HPI GT550's forwards and brake/reverse were in the wrong place despite setting up the ESC as instructed. Reversing motor wire made the change but this seems odd. 3) The stock TXT-1 motors are standard timing 540's so I now that both motors run the same way - seeing as how I have 1 reverse and 1 standard Traxxas 550, which one should I get another of to install in the TXT? I hope this is enough for someone to understand as I am hoping someone out there might have dabbled in the same thing! Cheers CPT

Hi all! Very interesting thread as a man who has recently taken delivery of a 'loved once' TA01/02 chassis that I have now done up as a classic Escort Cosworth Rally Car (boy hood dream time again as usual!). As per some of the earlier posts in this thread, both my diffs are bevel gear type and not ball diffs as I was expecting from the manuals I saw on TC. Does this point to it being a particular release or slightly older or newer than some TA's? Whilst my hop up plans fall way short of BritCrawler's (a quicker motor and decent esc do me), I would like to sort out the centre prop shaft as the one I have has seen a lot of action and may not be up to much more. Sorry if I haven't read this all right but can I just ask someone to confirm what I need to be looking for in terms of a hop up drive shaft for the TA01/2 that I have and where I might be best of sourcing one - I have looked on the bay but not quite getting there yet! Thanks all

Got home todaay to find my Micron tape has arrived and I have started on the Fiat 500. Man, it does make all the difference! A real decent prodcut from Kyosho that does exactly what it says on the tin and is easy to work with etc. A big shout to Neil at Time Tunnel/Goldstar for A) having such specific stuff listed and B ) being able to order it in in good time and at a good price. Photos will follow - once everything I own has got shut lines!

I for one don't think you should be allowed holiday! Now where am I going to find that awkward/rare/special part I need! Hope you feel refreshed upon your return!

Folks, Whilst wasting brain cells on the bay I have seen a couple of TA02 chassis, either as rollers or ready to go minus bodyshell etc. On the bodyshell front, can any TA02 owners or those enlightened, please confirm for me that standard wheelbase 190mm bodies should fit ok? I appreciate bodypost positions may well have changed over years and models but the shell itself should fit ok yes? Just fancied something a little bit more 'projecty' but don't want to look like an idiot and get a shell that will be a waste if it doesn't fit right! Thanks

Folks! Thanks to the good people of Tamiya, Modelsport and City Link Express, my Buggy Champ is now sat on the sofa in my office teasing me with it's 'open the box and smell me' eyes! Simple question, brought on by my (and many other peoples) obsession with 'making things faster'. What motors and ESC's etc will people be putting in their BC's? Are you going for stock all the way or anything hotter? TTFN

Thanks all for your thoughts - Terry, I have 4 3300 which I use exclusively for the E-Maxx (TRX connectors). In my mind, I found them to behave better after charging them on a 'proper' charger at 3.3A than when charged on my fire and forget 5A chargers. I was getting lots of false peaks etc so my 'fast' charging was often a game to be sure whether it had charged or was false and therefore not going to last long in the truck! What do you think I could charge these cells at? 4A? Ta Simon

Interesting, I just felt that a lot of the advice, on this forum and others is to charge at 1C. Fair enough my exploding battery incident was an extreme case but everything I have read says follow the 1C rule for NiMh. When charging at 6A, the pack must get rather hot!

Folks! http://modelsport.co.uk/?CallFunction=Show...mp;ItemID=32524 Now the above charger sounds really tempting for my twin battery trucks but I am concerned that it is fixed at 5A charge rate. To quote the blurb - 'With its twin 5A outputs this 240v mains powered charger can charge two packs of 7.2v 3000mAh NiMh batteries in approximately 40 minutes'. Surely this goes against all recommendations to only charge at 1C. So those batteries (to be safe) should only be charged at 3A. Am I right to think this would not be the best thing for preserving battery life and safety? Thanks all and happy Sunday BTW - the day of bashers...............

As Hannibal used to say (and lets hope it doesn't get ruined by the planned Movie) 'I love it when a plan comes together'

http://goldstarstockists.net/live/catalog/kyosho.php Thanks to Neil at Time Tunnel, brill as always - Ctrl F Micron and you will see a few there. I should think a few people will be putting orders in now! Simon