carparkthrasher

Thanks to you all for your good advie and experience, it's amazing how much choice one gets when dealing with RC! I guess that's what keeps us all hooked and constantly out of pocket!

Thanks for those thoughts, especially about making the cut in the Y lead, very logical! FYI - the twin ESC set up is for my clod running 540 cans. The TXT when it arrives will get the 550's along with a Kyosho twin batt/motor ESC designed for 550's. Should end up with a couple of fun trucks! Did you go for the 4 wheel steer on the TXT? Any opinion on that? Cheers!

Apologies to all, I have just spent some more time on Mtroniks t'inter web site and have answered my own question, yes one of the ESC's needs the red wire disconnected. My fault for letting work stop my research!!!!!!

Hi all! So, my TXT-1 is on it's way from Hong Kong and I am all set for it with 550 size motors, Kyosho ESC etc but the waoit has left me with tinkering time on my Clodbuster. As a result, I now have 2 21t motors, 2 MTroniks RV15's, a servo y lead and a battery 2 to 1 connector (for single battery running). Now the logistics of this seem failry srtaight forward but I am a little unsure about the RX side of things. Firstly, with 2 ESC's via the y lead, will they be sending too much power to the RX at all? I have read somewhere about the BEC side of things and the need to remove a wire from one of the ESC's. Secondly and slightly linked to the first question, when using an ESC and BEC radio, would any advantage be gained by using seperate power for the RX, in terms of power sent out to the steering servo for example? Cheers all.

Sold! A whole day with a track and Tamiyaclub members, what a belting prospect! Let's get that Conga Longa! (sorry...........) Fair trek from wet and cold Wycombe so will probably look into overnighter on the Sunday. Will be great to see real humans not just user names

And the grin factor is what it is all about! Nice looking truck by the way............. The Novak is another one of these dual motor ESC's that features the phrase '550 size only' in all it's lierature. The Superstocks are what, 23 turn? Do you think my 19t's would be too much? How was it dealing with Junfac? Did you order from them direct? Delivery to UK ok?

Hi All, Right, further to my Kyosho KA 6 experiment (overheating when used with 540 sized cans), I now find myself at a crossroads. I jsut want to get some crazy speed out of the truck and I am not a crawler by any means, so my choices seem as follows - A) Try a different ready made twin motor & twin battery ESC (must like 540 sized motors and walks on the beach) Take an esc that can work with twin motors and do some wiring (assume that still using single battery = much shorter runtime) C) Go for an ESC for each motor, creative wiring and a Y lead D) Stick with current ESC and use 550 motors - sadly they do not fit in stock clod chassis so current ESC looks bit of a dead donkey So, with that in mind could anyone who also drives their clod 'like they stole it' suggest any kind of best course of action? Should I be concentrting on the single battery, single ESC with motors wired in parallel route? What are my options chassis wise for being able to utilise 550 sized motors yet still have a chassis that doesn't ost me the earth and isn't meant for crawling etc. Any and all help gratefully recieved. I am so close to getting the beast how I want it yet seem to be thwarted so the time has come for some more advice. Please and thank you!

I see a lot of mention of North West Nutters, Kent Bashes and so on with the photos and videos produced as a result, epitomising what TC is all about. Anyone out there come under the BBO? Berks, Bucks, Oxford or Middlesex? I live in High Wycombe Bucks but have lived in Rickmansworth, Herts and Uxbridge in Middlesex so know the areas failry well. Shirley there must be other TC members out there from the rollig hills of the chilterns? Driving their high lifts as Red Kites swoop above? Anybody??????????????????

Hi Folks! Can anyone who owns the recently released Super Clod Chrome, let me know the part number for the F parts? I just quite fancy the black bumpers etc. I have tried the usual suspets, Tamiya USA has not got the listing or on line manual yet and searches of the bay haven't come up with anything yet. Thanks Simon

So would 550's be the way to go? I read on here someone who has recently installed 550's in his Clod, a tight fit but it works apparently! Thanks for your thoughts!

Hi all! First post of 2009 for mew so belated Happy New Year and all that jazz, hoping January has been kind thus far! Right, down to business. Last year I was lucky enough to get my hands on a BNIB 20 year old ClodBuster that I built up with blue parts and paint to give it a Super Clod feel. Now as with all my Tamiya's the build is half the fun and driving the thing is the other. To that end I wanted more oomph from my clod and I got hold of 2 21T fireballs and a Kyosho Perfex KA-6 ESC. Now by all accounts, this technically works. With 2 batteries installed, as per photos below, everything seems failry merry and I get sphincter tightening speed. However, as in so many cases, it just doesn't last. I get maybe a couple of minutes of controllable, good speed and response before the beast winds itself in and power falls off. It seems to be entering shutdown after detecting overheating etc like may ESC's do or that mode many enter when battery life is getting near end. My questions/request for opinions are 1) Should this combination of ESC and motors work successfully? 2) Is any kind of fan cooling worth considering? I have seen split ideas as to how much they actually help. FYI - I have tried running the truck without the windscreen etc to see if that would help and the result was about the same. 3) Should I go back a stage and reinstall the original motors and see what happens? 4) If this ESC really isn't right, what are the current favourites? Bearing in mind I am a speed, not a crawler man!

Thanks for all the thoughts folks, I reckon it was probably done with Tamiya PS Smoke so it does looklike either nitro fuel or sanding are my options! I don't have any nitro so I will try a bit of gentle sanding first and see how I get on. The obvious answer is to start fomsratch with a new shell but it is a Scooby and the rally declas drive me mental when applying so I would prefer to use this one!

Thanks chaps, FYIit is a poly bodyshell so pinted from the inside etc. My only concern leaving anything 'soaking' for a while is geting run off into areas that I want to keep painted. Deliate operation methinks!

Hi all, Yes, this be this years post from me! I have searched for the answer but not really come across it yet. I have just aquired a used bodyshell that has had the windows smoked, i.e. given that tinted look. As I have just spent some time painting a driver set for the car, I would like to remove the smoke paint from the windows. Any suggestions on the best product to use? Obvioulsy whatever I do needs to be done with care but I wouldn't know where to start in terms of chemicals and so on. Many thanks Simon

Thanks for that Mark, yeah I guess you makes your choice and takes your chance etc. I will give them a go for now as I am only a garden/park driver anyway and see how they do. Mind you, I wasn't filled with confidence when the back of the packet says things contrary to what you actually get!

Hi all. You may well have seen miy pictorial quiz from the main site regarding the recent purchase of 2 Venom Fireball 21x2. These are for my Clod project and I got them because a) They are sensibly priced and b ) They came with pre installed caps and connectors. Sadly, whilst a) is still correct b ) is not so as when they arrived they were the bare motor with no cabling. I have managed to make the bullet ends up thanks to a Tamiya Snap Connector set but before I set to a frenzied soldering session (far from being any good at said soldering but have som every useful tips from 'tinterweb), I thought I would ask if anyone knew if the slide/clip on connectors that connector the motor wire, are availble seperately or what they might even be called so I can search for them? i.e. you have a pre made wire come with the motor normally, one end has bullet style for ESC conenction and the other is a connector that slots into place on the fitting that forms part of the eyelt fitting (a big U shaped bit of metal!). I know I can solder direct to the motor but in the interest of science I am keen to find out if those parts are available. I have tried Venom's website and Googleised most things I can think of, any thoughts?

Hi folks, I posted this in the wanted section but thought I would mention it here as well to increase any chance of success. Currently my HL is out of action and my options do seem quite limited. One ad, in the wanted section, is enough thanks

Hi all, as a famous lady once said 'You are my only hope'. Due to some rather, ahem, robust driving I have managed to break part of the chassis components of my F350 HL. The part in question is the B Part (plastic) - the two halves that come together to form the axle etc. Internally everything is fine, it is just the B part I am after. The mighty Time Tunnel Models are looking into ordering it for me but Tamiya can't give them an ETA. A complete set of 2 axle have just gone on the bay for nearly 50 which was way to dear for me especially as the mechanical bits are fine. Also to hot for me would be the all metal options I have also seen on the bay. Anyone have a spare B part knocking around? Anyone out their upgraded to the all metal option and need to get rid of the originals? Thanks

heck, now that I think about it...........I managed to drive my newly built mini cooper (BMW flavour) straight into a garden chair, cracking my freshly painted bodyshell seconds after putting the bodyclips on for the first time. Man, my garden was filled with a few choice words after that one!

Ouch! I thought it was bad enough taking myself back off to the model shop. Getting something back to HK is probably a world of pain and expense!

Hi all, A couple of weeks back I secured a BNIB 1987 Clodbuster which I have now built up. Seeing as I prefered the Blue look, I found some F parts on the EBay credit card killer site and built it with those. This left me with the original Red F parts which I didn't need so I promoptly auctioned them on. Imagine my horror when the winning bidder, contacted me on receipt of the good to say that the molding was faulty and one of the bumpers was incomplete. I checked out the photos I took for the listing and blow me, the mold was in error and the bumper part stopped 2 thirds of the way along. I appreciate this serves me right for not checking the part thoroughly before lsiting but I have never had this before and took the parts (still wrapped) out of the box, took some pictures then put them in an envelope for dispatch. It didn't occur to me to check it that much! Thinking about it now, when I got my TL01-RA kit home, I realised I had 2 A parts but no B parts tree (or that sort of thing) and the result was a 2 hr round trip back to Time Tunnel Models. What are you experiences with dodgy kit moments? Parts been missing or incomplete? Was this molding issue well know back in the day? Just a nerdy question for a Tuesday afternoon...................

Hi Mountain, the ones included in my Ebay purchase are from Crawford Performance Engineering. They seem to sell a vast range of the many options parts available for the clod! Almost too many as it is hard to know where to start I think ESP also make one, just Google both and your wallet will never look back!

Thanks for the great input folks. This type of mount seems the one for me assuming I find a suitable bumper - as my driving style is (ahem) 'robust' to say the least! The work on the chassis to solve the clearance issue is a top tip. One question about the lift set as the kit I bought came with one but I haven't installed it yet. Daft question coming up but in adding the lift, do you still use the original length screw inside the friction shock? Or do you need to find longer ones? I just figured the lift would ask the shock to stretch more than it can? Thanks again peeps!

Hi folks. I have had a search of this forum regarding the matter of twin servo set ups but am still not entirely sure of my best solution. I have an original Clod, newly built with no changes except an ESC and ball races. Whilst down the line I plan to slowly add to my credit card bill with chassis mods', 4 link etc, I would like to start by getting the steering up to scratch. I have 2 hefty servos ready for this job (one already in place of course). I see that some of the servo mount options are only really applicable if you have the 4 link, after market chassis's'ssssss (whats the plural of chassis?). I would like a solution that allows me to leave the stock suspension for the time being. http://www.clodparts.com/products/steering/26.html Just for clarification, I take it these mount in front of the gearbox, thus not impeeding on the stock suspension and chassis set up in any way. Firstly, has anyone used this system and what are your views are and secondly, the drawback with this mount seems to me a possible impact on how the bumper mounts, if it still can. Am I right on this? Would I need an aftermarket bumper to offer some kind of protection for thsi newly located servo? Sorry to go over some old ground and I know that the Clodbuster is often seen as the 'Marmite' of Tamiya RC (love it or hate it) but I would like to be sure before I ook at importing bits from the States!

Man, I'd hate to have been the guy whose job it was to check that sort of thing