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About FoxShot

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  • Birthday November 27

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    Croydon, Surrey, UK

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  1. Today, I watched this: Total legend, and probably why I got into mountainbiking. At 30+ And have been for 20+ years. I've been to Morzine/Les Gets many times, ridden those places. And Switzerland, Wales etc. When all this is over, if I am OK, I can't wait to get back on it.
  2. Actually not true. The Top Force manual says use Threadlock in the lower chassis plate bolts. Then, later says remove 4 of them to fit the under tray. Good luck with that. They are aluminium screws.
  3. Didnt know the original release had solid axle with no proper dif in it. And are the chassis rails solid bar? I am currently building my ReRe Bruiser. My axle's would go straight on that. The gear'd diff is such a work of art in it
  4. That is the Servo Saver, and designed to flex/break on impact to protect the servo. Some people direct fit the hirn without a saver for more precise handling. However, as you strengthen and reinforce parts, the weakest link is the next in line, so it may be that next time, the servo itself breaks. or the steering parts on the kit. Servo saver kits are pretty common, and universal (if i am correct) and can be ordered from various store in the Servo pack. Check Frog/Hotshot etc. I may be corrected though
  5. Many thanks. Now I have to reset the password thingy again. Can never remember that one!
  6. OOH, yeah. Avante. That was a good build. Although I have to say getting the rear trailing arms right on the Egress was more complicated than the Avante. Overall though, the Avante was more technical.
  7. Sent you a message with my email address on. You could scan the template. If you cant do that, there is a postal address too
  8. Does anyone have a template for the shift gate? I would like to make one out of Carbon Fibre. Looked here: no avail; https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1297614/Futaba-4ywd.html#manual And here; http://manuals.hobbico.com/fut/4yf-2_4ghz-manual.pdf plus a few other places. Also, my Trannie is the 4Yf, and is basically the same as the 4wyd, but with a ratchet. Easy to convert I guess. Was going to just get stuck in by opening it up, and swapping the left to right relvant bits over. Any tips for the open surgery?
  9. Gotta be either the Bruiser/Mountain Rider Chassis, at around £650, or a tank, at around £K's. Building a Bruiser at the moment, and its fantastic build. The 3 Speed box a fantastic piece of engineering, and the diff's are awesome. You can really take your time over the body too. Check my thread on here. (About to be updated too )
  10. No further progress with the stickers. No time in my life to concentrate on that However, I hade a little progress with the head. Stock Tamiya head, sides of hair trimmed with a scalpel, and ears profiled. Top 'Mohawk' sanded smooth. Then Revell Plasto applied. Allowed to start to dry, then stippled to create spikey hair (Like mine). Still got to profile the nose. Rear View. Nice tapered style. Excuse my terrible nails!!! Couldn't get the ears level properly Had to work with what I had. At least he doenst look 1970's any more!! I've had Vinne Jones and Julius Caesar on facebook!! Now to prime and paint him. Eyes could be a problem. Also, never attempted anything like this before. Not even in my Yoooof when i did static models too
  11. Think my FoxShot ESC is a 101 or 104. That would explain the glitchign I get. Cheers Muchly
  12. Ok, another update time. This time not ALL good news I assembled the body parts, and got the lines and panel gaps 100% perfect, using a Tamiya Allen drive as a spacer: Very effective method. Took a little giggling to get both sides matching, but was well worth it. Then I started the decals. 1st I split the backing in the middle. Then I tape the whole thing down, getting the position perfect. Once happy, i take half the retaining tape off, and apply dry from the middle. Then i repeat the process in the other direction. You get a very small, almost impercetable line where the two halves meet sometimes. I then proceeded to cut out the side panel stickers. Due to the sheer complexity of the cut out, I decided to have a practice using the wet method on some of my other bodies, still having a few stickers to put on the Top Force. I had also been saving all my clear off cuts for just such a practice session as I envisiged having to tackle the side stickers wet. All my trial applications went well. Not a problem...... I started the sides by cutting out the holes needed for the raised details... I then did exactly as I had with the trial stickers, dipping them without their backing into water with a small drop of washing up liquid (Fairy) and it all went horribly Pete Tong. The sickers didn't stick at all. I tried squeezing out the water, and it twisted the sticker. I tried maing it follow the lines of the twim waistine, and it pointblank refused to follow, leaving it all kinda smoothed out I tried using a cotton bud to force the gap, and the sticker twisted again. I got EXCEEDINGLY *******ed off, and and wish I had tried my way. Two days later, its dry, and has 2 horrid air bubbles I can't get rid of. Even by pricking them. I guess an MCI order is on the books. Unless someone has unused front passenger side, which i very much doubt. What did I do wrong? Any ideas or tips. I was so hoping for the ultimate, perfect build.
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