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About Balgaroth

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  1. So on the bad news train I discovered while getting the TL01 ready to go to the track that I have a small crack in the main tub between the motor region and the back axle. Worst than that I also discovered that 3 out of the 4 shock towers are quite badly cracked. This means replacing the main tub. Considering the TL01 would need turnbuckles, long arms and different hubs/knuckles not much would remain from the original car so I am not sure if I should spend on it or not. Either way i will drive it to failure hopefully until the Stadium Thunder is back on his wheels.
  2. Well things aren't going too well with the Stadium Thunder, the summum was when I blew my gearbox today ... So let's start by the beginning, the Turnbuckle kit arrived before second last session, I got my geo setup similar than with the original links and then added a fair amount of camber back and front. This ended up causing some grip roll so I backed it up at the front to 1 or 2 deg. Having roughly 5/6 deg of camber in the back now allow the directional front tire pattern I am using at the back to grip while turning which pretty much solved the snap oversteering when letting the throttle go mid corner. While this may seem like a lot of camber, one you take out the slope that I have in my suspension and hubs you probably end up with 1 or 2 deg of actual camber. This really bugs me but until I change hubs that's all I can do. I noticed my turn in to be quite slow tho with the front end pushing quite a bit so I may try to go with less toe-in and maybe a tad more camber once the Stadium Thunder is back running. On the more mechanical side of things I lost a back wheel on each session, losing a pin and a wheel nut. This is quite frustrating so I ordered some alloy hex hopefully this will help, at least I won't loose the pins anymore. I also noticed that my original shocks are leaking quite a bit especially the front ones. In addition to the blow end shaft at the back I ordered some alloy shocks to replace these. Plan is to rebuild them out of the box with a rebound valve and proper oil. On top of being cleaner, dissipating heat faster and look better they should help with the general behavior by being more planted with high compression yet retain some grip with a slightly faster rebound. Now the really bad bit. After finishing my Nimh pack and switching to the Lipo pack I got a bit excited and decided to go full send on the triple instead of going double-simple. Oh boi what did I do ... The ST and the current weird suspension setup took off quite not well, landed kinda at the right distance but not in the ring position and went flipping on 3m. Somhow ended up on the good side but when I pushed the throttle it didn't moved only made some noise. Not good ... got to the ST and saw the dogbone near the crash so I thought it wasn't too bad. Saw the turnbuckle unclipped but when I went to clip it back I realised that it was the support on the gearbox that was nearly torn clean off. And I also noticed that my motor didn't quite like all the flips I do. So that was that for today 😢 Tonight I ordered a new gearbox, considering the Stadium Thunder (red) parts are twice as expensive as the Blitzer version, the new one will be black ... I also took the opportunity to get new "steering wheel" radio, more Lipo packs, steel pinion and few bits and bobs. For now on I will be running the TL01, I transfered my receiver on it and mounted the spare the Rookie Sport esc with the Sport Tuned motor. Got rid of the front running gear and propshaft, will give it a go on the tarmac track tomorrow hopefully. I won't drive the Stadium until all the mods and repairs are done. Îd love to find a good rear hub for it in order to reduce slop and run less static camber but I need to find the right info first or buy the parts with the risk of not being able to use them.
  3. Hey man I love the effort and creativity you put in those it is just amazing. I saw the modification you did to the Blitzer and was wondering how much different it feels with the battery length way. it's something that I thought about as well as it would reduce the weight transfer side to side to help with quick turns transition and also bring more weight at the front to reduce the snap steering inherent with the RWD rear engine configuration. Another thing that got me thinking, where di you find the rod braces ? And what about crossing those braces ? This way it may increase front to back rigidity but also torsional rigidity which is poor on this chassis.
  4. @ThunderDragonCy thanks for your answer that means I can go with either DT or Blitzer knuckles without risking to make them useless the day I find a suitable alloy hub. I checked my C-hub bottom axle and it is roughly 16mm, Arm to chassis is 30mm. Length need to be double checked but considering the DT02 turnbuckles are a direct fit i wouldn't be too worried. As for rear arms it would take a ~23mm hub bottom axle and wishbone need to be around 27mm to fit the Stadium Thunder gearbox. If you find the time to check those dimensions on your DT that'd amazing ! 2. It seems like Tamiya os planning a re-release of the Stadium Thunder which would make my life easy to get new rims and maybe a new shell as mine doesn't like the track abuse (mostly my bad driving). 3. I will have a look at those tires if I decide to change the fronts. Considering the front rims are narrower do you go with a 2.2 Truck tire which will be a little bit too wide or do you go with a 2.2 1/10 buggy tire ? Other than that I received my turnbuckles and started to instal them, other than the screw going to the top of the rear hubs being too short everything seem to be a direct fit. I'll do an update once geo is done 😍
  5. @glob356 you Blitzer is class what did you decide do to motor wise in the end ? Also I am curious, what shock towers are you running ? What is the long alu part running on the length of the tub ?
  6. *** If my thread doesn't belong in the vintage thread can a Moderator transfer it to the appropriate forum ? Thanks :) *** So a few updates after 3 sessions at the local track. First time was with the stock configuration, near dead rear tires, slow enough yet still hard to control. Session 2 was with new Motor/ESC/Rear tires/Lipo and it was a shocking difference ! Acceleration is now quite strong to the point that hitting the double in the track can be done with a flick of throttle right before the kick whereas before I had to go full throttle out of the previous turn. But the Stadium Thunder was very hard to control and it spun at almost every corner. i ended up removing the open cell foam inserts in the new back tires and removed the back spring preload which helped. Because it was hard to control it did many flips which killed one of my rear shocks, pulling the threads out of the foot of the shock. From that session I got thinking and after repairing the rear shock I drilled some hole in my 4 rims, refitted the open cell inserts in the rears, added some closed cell foam in the fronts. I also ordered some Alu shocks front and rear which I will tune and valve, particularly in the back to have hard compression and fast rebound to help again with the grip. Third session was today, the modifications done on the tire side helped massively and made the Stadium Thunder easier to control. I won't change much on this side for now, so next modification will be sorting out the suspension and geo once the turnbuckles arrive, adding some camber at the back will help make the most of the Wedge tire pattern to get more stability of the rear in the corners, traction isn't much an issue on the Astro-turf I find. All in all I made some progress, and I am quite stoked and willing to keep developing this old chassis. i learned few things: - Stadium Thunder is pretty sturdy and the track is very punishing, I think I flipped my poor ST more time in 3 days than I did ever before. - Original front tires are actually quite good, the small diameter is a bit frustrating as i now have proper 2.2 tires at the back but no rush to change them. - I still have the original FM radio stick control, I will quickly move on to a recent "wheel" radio as it seems easier to be precise in your steering imputs. - I need to check my wheel nuts after each battery pack as I nearly lost one after session 2 and I actually lost one rear wheel today. I will also get some alu hexnuts as the original ones don't stay in place anymore. - I think my best Nimh old battery is dead, what I though was water vapour inside the transparent wrap is kinda oily and doesn't dry fast or at all. Any opinion ?
  7. Hi Everyone, I recently stumbled across my old Stadium Thunder and decided I’ll get back into RC Car especially since I now live 10min away from a big RC track. In my memory my ST was in good shape when I stopped using it 10/15 years ago, well I guess it is aside from the massive scratches on the underbelly and the play on pretty much all the suspension parts. Spending most of my time wrenching on my DH and Enduro MTB I became allergic to play, maybe I’ll have to accept that. On the positive note 2 of my Nimh battery packs still work so does my Stadium Thunder J Anyway the plan is to refresh that bad-boy while also bringing back to live a TL01 that was in the same box, 100% stock, slow and neglected back in the days by its original owner. So my Stadium Thunder is/was fairly stock, aside from a few bearings in the box (maybe it was stock actually), and the replacement of the MSC by a Robbe Rookie Sport. Engine was the stock Tamiya Sport Tuned black can, few of the wishbones joints have been fitted with brass tubes to reduce a bit the play. The electronics from my ST will be fitted to the TL01 which will lose its prop-shaft and gain some bearings. For my Stadium Thunder I’ve ordered a Etronix Sport Tuned 15T, Hobbywing WP1060, a LiPo 4000mAh, Proline 2.2 Wedge Medium, full bearing kit, DT02 Turnbuckle set and some small nylon washers to try to reduce the play in the wishbones. As I already fitted the dogbones ends with some foam back in the days I’ll keep it like that for now as I don’t lose the dogbones with that little trick. On a more DIY level I want to make a upper front brace out of a carbon plate and add some valving to the original socks. With my background see “shocks” with the same flowrate for rebound and compression makes me twitch. If I really get back into it I’ll probably put the ST on a Brushless system and gives the Etronix/Hobbywing kit on the TL01. Now here are a few questions and thoughts I had: - Are the Proline Wedge medium any good? My original tires were slick so it can’t be worse anyway but I may also change the fronts. - It seems a bit difficult to find 50mm 2WD front wheels, my rims are a bit faded and I was thinking about going same size front and rear. Any opinion on this? - I found the steering knuckles to be quite flexible, anyone know if the DT03 steering knuckles would fit? I found some nice alloy ones on ebay. - As for the wishbones, C hubs, are the DT03 a straight fit? So what do you think ? Any ideas or recommandations ? I hope I wasn't too long and my questions are not too dumb :D
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