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Balgaroth

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  1. @Kevin_Mc I first chopped the ledge on which the esc was sitting to lower CoG and this was next step. I think the ultimate version would be doing a ledge out of aluminium corner this way you could lower your esc another 5/6mm I will have a look into it. Like Cy recommended M03 seem good I will probably order a set. What lipos are you using in your TL01s ? This afternoon I was at the track, aside from breaking my Stadium Thunder once again, the TL01 was hard to drive. After many days of rain the track was still wet and the overcast 10deg we had all day didn't help to dry up. Once you got a bit a heat into the tires it was better but if you get into the grass it became donuts' city until they got back up to temp and dried. It was fun nonetheless.
  2. So today the Stadium Thunder came back to life, very much so ! Exit the brushed setup it is now on a 4370kv brushless setup. While I was at it I installed the universal props at the back, re-opened the diff, put the low profile servo and setup my battery lenghtways. I also replaced the original shocks by alu ones which I rebuilt with proper oil and hard springs at the back. I swaped the Proline Wedge to the front and while I am waiting for new proper back tires I will finish up the originals that have near 0 grip. Quite some change done which I hope will make a big difference on the track. So far I tried it on the street with a 13T pinion and this motor is violent. Since it is a cheap GoolRc I wasn't expecting too much but I am not sure I will keep it on the truck as it may be too much for it. I need to sort out the battery holder better, it is solid but not neat.
  3. @ThunderDragonCy thanks for the tips for tue M03 axles I will look it up ! As for tires I am using cheap Aliexpress tires, the rubber is soft enough but not slow rebound/resin style of rubber. To get a good balance I am using a Tamiya medium closed cell insert in the front while I run the very soft open cell foam that was provided with the tires. I can touch the rim while pressing on my back tires, it would be an effort to do the same at the front. I am actually somewhat worried by getting race tires as they are already glued on and I am not sure that compound alone would be enough to keep the balance. I read your topic with the TA06 which I found interesting, maybe the fact that I am running an fully open diff helps too ? Keep in mind that I am running a 15t brushed too which is not massively powerful I guess. I also read a lot of pages around that topic on another forum where most of the guys were saying it is impossible to make a 1/10th rwd and arguing about putting front brake of reverse one way. One thing is true in all this, braking need to be very gentle but my track is very open so I don't really need to brake hard or accelerate hard it is more about throttle modulation.
  4. @Kevin_Mc Yes I removed the propshaft, emptied the front GB and removed the driveshafts. Nothing irreversible as I wasn't sure what would happen. The last thing I'd like to do it so cut the driveshaft cups on the front hubs to save some rotational weight on the front wheels but that would make those axles completely useless if I wanted to reverse the process, tho that's probably not gonna happen. For the scale I am using the old trick of kitchen scale and a book of equivalent height. It is not perfectly accurate but considering I am playing with a 15 years old cracked TL01 chassis I consider it good enough 😂 I have a very limited experience on a track and limited skills so I learn as I modify the car too. It is probably not fast by any standards but I have fun with it and I can manage several laps without crashing and some flow so it's not that bad I guess. First try I had with the car in rwd mode was with cooked original tires, friction shocks on a Sport Tuned can and you couldn't drive it without spinning it, tires makes for a good 6/70% of the viability of the project. Even simply putting the Aliexpress tires at the back and keeping the front with the old ones made night and day, I read many threads with people saying you can't make a rwd 1/10th and I think it is only because they get the tire setup wrong. In biking it is the same, if your rubber is rubbish and/or you run bad pressure you will never go fast even with the best setup and gear in the world.
  5. So I finally got my hands on a scale to see where my chassis balance is at. And it is a rather good surprise. No battery, with shell: Front: 43% Back: 57% Left: 49% Right: 51% Battery and shell: Front: 45% Back: 55% Left: 50% Right: 50% These results are with the low profile servo, the ESC outside the tub and the lipo alarm and battery cable on the left. For the sake of experimenting I tried to put the lipo alarm and battery cable on the other side and it gave me a 47/53. Conclusion: - I was thinking of playing with the dremel to tuck in the ESC better but I won't touch it since I have a good left/right balance as is. - I was considering buying some shorty in the hope to help reduce the weight up front (TL01 battery placement is somewhat at the front) but at best I will modify the balance by maybe 1% which is not worth it considering I would have to dremel quite a bit my chassis. So I will most likely buy another Bashing 4000 stick to get a bit more play time unless I find a better option but 5000mAh sticks don't seem to exist. - I think I have done all that was possible in terms of none specific upgrades to my RWD TL01, I will swap front and rear shocks as they have very slightly different settings to experiment and see if it helps with bit and corner behaviour. After that I will finish off these tires and reflect on what should happen next other than new tires. GF01 LA kit ? Speed Tuned gears ? Rear Diff ? Turnbuckle set ? Any suggestions ?
  6. @lowspot that's a really nice looking TL01 you have there ! As for lipo I am using the only stick shape I have and first lipo I bought since getting back into RC few months ago after 15years hiatus. Which is ... a Bashing 4000 from Gens ACE. It is only a 50c but I doubt it is a limitation for my 15T brushed motor. Gives a good run time and it is cheap enough. I don't think you can find stick shaped lipos above 4000 from what I researched so far. What lipo are you running ? I still had to enlarge a little bit the stick cavity I guess you jad to do the same as it must be the same hardshell for both sticks. Once I will have a decent scale to see where my weight is spread on the chassis I will either get another stick lipo or get some shorty lipos to reduce the weight and keep it more centered. Otherwise I had 2 more sessions with the TL01, one stock, one with the ESC outside. The car still has a very responsive turn-in which I'd like to tame down a bit. Overall I have some good fun and it seems that with tire setup alone you can easily make a TL01 drivable in a rwd configuration. Keep in mind I run exclusively on an Outdoor 1/5th track. My cheap Aliexpress tires start to show signs of wear (probably 6/7 packs) so I swapped the outsides to the inside to finish it off evenly with the next packs. Yesterday I installed a low profile servo (bought 2 from Ali to try a modification with my Stadium Thunder) despite being smaller it is heavier as it is metal but CoG should be slightly better I guess and it is 9kg instead of 3kg so it should be more precise somehow. I am toying with the idea of getting some proper racewheels/tires or keep running Ali tires especially if I go with Speed gears which should make it even easier to put power down. If anyone has some input about this I am all ears.
  7. That's going to be a nice TL01 ! I will keep an eye on this maybe some extra inspiration for my undead rwd TL01 😂
  8. So I was bored today which got me thinking about ways to improve my undead TL01. Having my (heavy) ESC sitting at the bottom of the tub was good for CoG but not great for ventilation. Another thing that was bothering me since the start was that all the weight on the TL01 is either centered or on the left. So I pulled my 2 screws all the way out, put a counted nut to secure them, and put my esc outside the tub. I don't have a scale to proper check weight balance but sure it can't be more biased than it was. With the lipo alarm and cables it should be fairly balanced hopefully I can confirm that soon. That is easier than going short lipo which was my initial thought.
  9. Next step is probably going to be the addition of Toe-in rear hubs to help with on power traction and maybe all around turnbuckles to fine tine camber and front Toe to reduce turn in and maybe increase general corner traction (the wear patern in the rear is a bit toward the outside edge so it may benefit from a bit more camber).
  10. So yesterday evening I went quickly at the track to test my latest modifications (lowering, different rear spring). With all the rain we got recently and yesterday the track had 70% of its surface dry, the rest was humid. Cold weather is good for rubber grip but wet isn't and rwd on top of it made it for some challenging conditions which was fun. First few laps were a bit complicated, the turn in became very sharp since the last time which has to be the different modifications I made to the car. It lead me to reduce the steering rate on my transmitter which helped to keep the car in control. Aside from the turn-in that was quite sharp the rest of the turn was good. I noticed that the car now also dribbled on some high-speed turns which never happened before. Once I started to get consistent with this setup I brought the car to the pits and put the TA05 springs back at the rear and back on track. This helped to reduce a little bit the sharpness of the turn-in and the dribbling on the high-speed turns. I am not sure how or why tho. On the motor side all was fine, I replaced the tamiya plug from my ESC for a Deans which saves me from the stupid adaptor, no increase in performance it is just neater. At the end of my 4000mAh 2s pack the motor was hot but you could still hold it for 2/3sec before it became uncomfortable. ESC was warm at touch too but to be fair it doesn't get much air where it is at the moment. Nothing dramatic anyway. Which leads me to wonder it I should go with lower ratio, especially considering I reach motor speed limit half way down the straights (outdoor 1/5th track). At the moment I run the 23t pinion with standard gear. 19t pinon with speed tuned gear might be good for my track but I don't want to burn my motor/esc. Another option might be to play with timing. Not having any motor specs provided by Etronix doesn't help in choice. And just for the craic I stuck a hardcase 2s 5200mAh on top of my TL01 as I only have the 4000mAh lipo stick that fit it right. This was basically undrivable with more weight and placed higher which resultat in traction roll everywhere. That was fun to watch. I also crashed into a pipe mid session which resulted in a massive crack in the shell bonnet and a dent that I managed to push out. I am glad I haven't invested in a nice new shell for this chassis lol. I will repair this one with fabric and Silnet so it doesn't get worse.
  11. You can have a look a Robbe Rookie escs I have a Sport version which is happily driving a 15t on 2s lipo. You need a lipo alarm as cut off is too high but other than that it's all good. Mine was purchased around 2001-2, has been stored for 15years and is all good. And I think they still sell some of the Rookie models nowadays so you could get an old esc but brand new lol
  12. So these arms are not compatible with either my TL01 or my TA05 as it was stating in the ad so I asked for refund. While I was at it I also checked if TA05 arms are compatible with TL01 fitment and it isn't so I am back at square one. Considering that my main handling issues were due to the servo saver I may just pass on this mod. Instead maybe going with toe-in rear hubs and turnbuckle set all around to play with geo. While I was on the car I took the time to reduce the shocks' travel to lower the car. From a 12mm ground clearance (not sure about the right term) I am now at 5mm which hopefully will be enough for my outdoor track. I put some softer springs in the rear too and thinned a bit the front oil. We will see how this goes. And while doing all this I noticed that my shell was now hitting the front tires at full travel. I didn't notice before as the full travel was really hard to reach, now the car feels softer as the travel range is reduced. I put my shell on the next pin up at the 4 corners. This combined with the chassis lowering still allows the shell to be closer to the ground and technically yield more aero grip. This might also allow me to run the NSX shell. Many ´new things to test at the track later this week
  13. @lowspot Thanks for the tips, in fairness I am not sure I want to reduce the action of my rear diff as this can introduce oversteer which for the moment is not what I am looking for. I think the biggest let down is the original servo saver, the 3Racing saver completely solved my issue with everything else stock and worn-out. When comparing to the TA05 I have at home you can feel the difference in terms of chassis stiffness and torsional rigidity, surprisingly the TL01 does better ! This probably also explains why my chassis has several cracks lol. Today I received some TB evo arms, carbon reinforced in order to emulate a long-arm kit. I may need to switch to racing 0mm offset wheels to fit in my shell. I also took the hubs tho I am not sure I can use them for the moment as I don't have turnbuckles. Those were cheap 8€ delivered for front and rear, arms+hubs. So if it doesn't work I still can keep them as spare for something else (if I keep that TA05 for exemple).
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