[Advice on charging NiMH battery procedure]

Ok, so I’ll lengthen the cables so I can access the plug without body shell removal. Thanks so much for your help.

[Advice on charging NiMH battery procedure]

On 9/6/2020 at 10:45 PM, Juggular said:

With NiMH, the memory effect is less than NiCd.  But I'd still do full charge/full drain.  Well, not quite 100% drain because that will kill it.  Discharge to about 1v or 0.9volt per cell.  That'd be 6v, or 5.4v.  You'll feel the car driving not as peppy as it was for the past 15 minutes. (definitely not to a crawl) 

Let it cool, and charge fully.  If next run is a month later, I would discharge, cool, and recharge.  

 

Thanks Juggular, so how have you wired it? Do you disconnect the ESC or have you a component between the battery and the ESC? I have it in my mind that I once saw a “kit” to do this on HobbyKing” but can’t find it now of course! I have new NiMH batts.

[Advice on charging NiMH battery procedure]

Thanks everyone, especially Aerobert. I’ve not seen the magnetic connectors before. I’m thinking perhaps I could achieve my wish if I include a cut off switch to the ESC. But can anyone tell me how some manufactures manage to do it?

[Advice on charging NiMH battery procedure]

1 hour ago, BrianWP said:

I’m still a novice so forgive what may seem a daft question! Is it possible to modify the battery connection on my (almost completed) Tamiya Toyota Mountain Rider with an additional connector that’s accessible for charging so I don’t need to unplug the battery from the ESC each time? Thx*

27 minutes ago, Matty36 said:

I would never leave the battery plugged in or even in the car when not in use. I would remove the battery when charging anyway in case it has a fault as it's cheaper to replace the battery rather than replace an esc as well. Now I use lipo, they need to be charged in a safe bag, away from most things.

Many thanks for your advice & I certainly appreciate what your saying. In my case the body shell has a wiring loom for max lighting mods, so there are three additional connectors that require disconnecting to lift the body clear enough for easy battery removal. So I can’t help remaining envious of models that have a charging point which, I image, disconnect the ESC.

[Advice on charging NiMH battery procedure]

I’m still a novice so forgive what may seem a daft question! Is it possible to modify the battery connection on my (almost completed) Tamiya Toyota Mountain Rider with an additional connector that’s accessible for charging so I don’t need to unplug the battery from the ESC each time? Thx

[Tamiya ESC question]

Sorted

[Tamiya ESC question]

Help guys! Solving my forward/back issue by reversing the stick on the TX has created another problem, namely brake lamps - they come on during forward motion. I can’t see how to reverse them easily as that come off the light controller - any ideas guys?

[Tamiya ESC question]

Hi, I realise now with both your help that something is clearly reversed and yes, on testing, reverse is faster I notice. Ok, corrected motor polarity and reversed fwd/bk on TX programming - bingo! Perfection 😊 - thanks so much guys for helping a beginner learn.

[Tamiya ESC question]

Hi, thx for your suggestion, you may be on to something. I had to reverse fwd/bk on the controller and switch the cable round on the motor to avoid up being reverse and down being forward. I didn’t know about brake/double tap function. The 105 has “reverse function off” capability which is disabled. Reading the instructions more carefully it has a set up with max fwd & max reverse. I’ll sit down with all again. Very much appreciate your time.

[Tamiya ESC question]

Hi, I’m fairly new at this having recently retired. I’ve started with the Tamiya 4x4 Mountain Rider. I’ve completed the electrics, adding a custom lighting system. It has the Tamiya ESC TEU-105BK. I’ve have the Carson Reflex Stick Multi Pro LCD 14 Ch (thinking of the future) with matching Carson receiver. All is fine except one issue - To move forward from starting off, I need to flick the control forward once before it begins respond. Reverse and gears respond perfectly, as do all lights etc. The ESC is connected to Ch2. I can’t understand why this happens so any advice would be much appreciated.