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About bork_

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    Birmingham, UK

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  1. Thanks Mark, wish I'd have got a bit further with it but life and bad weather has got in the way since all those months ago I posted this thread.. Anyways, to answer your question the carbon shorty lipo mount was made by a chap on the TopForce Facebook group who does them to order. Unfortunately I don't have his details to hand, and not sure if he's still active either, but I hope that at least helps a little?
  2. So a quick update on the Tamiya 54505 Big Bore Rear Aeration damper rebuild for use as front Top Force dampers; measuring them as built out of the packet they are 92mm eye-to-eye, and as we need 87mm I went on a hunt for a 5mm spacer. Just so happens as I hadn't used my 'D' sprues up building the standard kit shocks, part D2 is the perfect solution! Measuring the Big Bore shocks now they are bang-on 87mm eye-to-eye. Though I'd add this up for other Top Force owners looking to use these dampers.
  3. @Falcon#5 Amazing resources thank you! First thing for me is to get the base setup correct, and that means building the shocks to the correct length. For my own an any other Top Force owners reference the shock lengths are: Front: 87mm Back: 94mm Well that's what is recommended on the back of the 50520 SHORT CVA SHOCK UNIT II INSTRUCTION CARD.. I'll be rebuilding my shocks this weekend and mounting them as per the Top Force Evo manual; after that i'll do a first set of as-built setup measurements and see where we are.
  4. @Juggular thanks for the advice; I'll un-snug the hex adapters a little. Also agree on the aluminium shock tower nuts, the reason they are there is the bolts I used to mount the shocks didn't leave enough thread to get a proper steel nyloc on so used one of the fancy blue ones I have which are much slimmer. It'll be best if I source some longer bolts and get the steel nuts on with a decent washer.
  5. @topforcein I'm living in Shirley, Solihull. That actually leads onto where I plan to run it which is not sure actually! Got a local grass park that has some good open spaces and rolling hills and also has a skate park that I think will get all the bashing (not sure how this thing will survive over the box but I'll soon find out), but looking to find somewhere a bit more dedicated for off-road running, and also wouldn't mind finding an indoor space as the weather is turning a bit... In the longer term I do want to find a club so I can learn from others and get hands on running advice. Thanks for the video link too; that perfectly answers the aftermarket steering problem as they are made for the plastic tub DF01 (I think?) anyways the issue was the cross-brace was waaay to short in both cases and completely removed all of the lock. I did actually try to build a turnbuckle like the chap in the video but that too offered reduced steering and was a bit close to the gearbox for comfort. Think i'll stick with the plastic parts for now.
  6. Hi all! Another long-time lurker, first-time poster here and I'd like to share my 'Toppest Force' project that I've been veeery slowly cobbling together over the last 6 months or so. I've never actually owned an RC car, and as a kid drove my friends Hornet & Boomer and pored endlessly over Tamiya RC catalogues. So with no prior experience and nothing but faded memories from decades ago I though why not go all in and build a car with enough scope to: learn how to build & hop-up everything learn how to set one up learn how to charge lipos safely learn how to drive one (!) join a local RC club and learn how to race (!!) repeat when it falls to pieces... Anyways, long story short here's where I am: - got chassis built with every shiny thing that caught my eye - bought transmitter, receiver, esc, battery packs, charger etc. - not gone anywhere near prepping & painting the shell So as I am firmly in the build & setup part of the plan I have the following questions: I blindly built the shocks with no thought on length etc. just to get experience. I'm going to go back and build again, what length should the front & rear shock be? Any suggestion on starting shock positions/hole choices? I'm going to swap the Fibre Lyte custom front tower out for the Top Force Evo styled version as with these shocks none of the tower mounting holes actually make sense and just appear to be for show When I have sorted the shocks out what ride height should I be looking for? And that's adjusted by shock spring preload right? When assembled the UJs have about 3-4mm of float between the outside hub bearing and the hex adapter. I've put nylon shims in to remove all slop (look at last 2 photos) and everything seems fine; is that expected? The front hub has 4mm or so float up/down in the carrier; is that expected? I shimmed it out with nylon spacers again and its smooth with no play (you can see the chunk of white under the kingpins on the underside shot) but that seems really excessive to me. The carriers are Tamiya 53226 with Yeah Racing hubs. I tried the same setup with GPM hubs and even the red plastic ones from the kit with the same result. I bought both the Yeah Racing & GPM alloy steering sets but cannot for the life of me get either of them to fit. Has anybody worked it out and have a reference image for me to take reference from?
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