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SimonL

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About SimonL

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  1. Thanks for the tip, I‘l give that a try. They were bought as 55mm shocks - presumably I would have to shorten the springs a bit to reduce the eye to eye distance?
  2. Tried it out at the local indoor track and the car finally goes in a straight-ish line, and is easier to handle Need to work out how to get the car a little bit lower though as it rolls too easily
  3. Set up my TT-01E with better turnbuckles, oil shocks, and tightened the slack in the front and rear drive shafts. Would have replaced the stock ones with Tamiya 800600 universal shafts, but turns out the ones for the TT-01 don’t fit the TT-01E (or rather, I need to cut a bit of thread off - sticks out the wheel too much).
  4. Finished the painting last weekend, and over the last week slowly put the decals on the body. Finished this evening, fairly happy with the results
  5. How about here? https://www.tamiyaclub.com/manuals.asp?cm=456
  6. PS34 - Bright Red. At the moment it’s still got the outer film coating on the shell, so I expect it will brighten up a bit when I remove that - will post another picture tomorrow (assuming the perpetual rain stops and I can get outside to complete the black trims and smoke windows)
  7. Masked and painted a Ferrari F12 TDF shell. Red (because Ferraris shouldn’t be yellow!) backed with white - over the weekend I’ll finish off with the black front/back/skirts and the smoked windows
  8. Second time you’ve used it now, so I’m going to have to ask - what does WTD stand for?
  9. Came up with what will hopefully be a suitable workaround, and also a faster way of changing batteries when necessary. A length of bicycle inner tube stretched across the battery posts and held in place with the clips, and a bit of extra tubing to fill in the gap between the battery and the chassis - battery isn’t going anywhere and the rubber just wraps around the battery wires
  10. Thanks, I read that earlier. His battery, at least in the photos, doesn’t have any cables coming out of it. My issue is the cables leave the battery in the middle at one end so it interferes with the clamp (I see they appear to have fixed this problem with the TT02 by making the clamp go diagonally across the battery from corner to corner). Maybe I can get away without the clamp at all though if I use foam tape....
  11. Upgraded to aluminium steering arms and adjustable turnbuckles on the TT01E. They’re pretty stiff though, so I’m not sure exactly how ‘adjustable’ they are going to be - turning the adjustable nut seems to just unclip the arms, rather than make any adjustment...
  12. Currently struggling with a Corally 2S Lipo and a TT01E - have used the Dremel to open out the chassis, sanded down the battery clamp, and loosened the screws on the battery posts, but not having any joy getting the battery to fit. Doesn’t help that the battery wires leave the battery right at the point where the clamp wants to clamp.... anyone any suggestions? Are there taller battery posts available, or alternative clamps?
  13. Nope, that’s exactly what I wanted to hear, thanks
  14. Thanks, that’s the sort of feedback I was looking for. Certainly if you go for a TT02 standard kit with body shell etc it would be cheaper to buy the kit and upgrade separately. But I wonder if the same holds true for the TT02RR, which is a more expensive chassis only option and no wheels/motor/shell etc, and whether a kit built up with the Yeah racing kit is better or worse (or just different) compared to a TT02RR....
  15. I’ve come across the Yeah Racing Aluminium Conversion kit, which seems to contain the majority of the parts to build a TT-02, with the exception of the bottom plate, the gearing, and some other random parts and screws. I understand that the usual approach is to buy (or use an existing) TT-02, and then use the Yeah kit to convert it to a stronger model, but has anyone done it the other way round? Bought the kit, and then bought the appropriate spare parts from Tamiya in order to complete the car? Is this practical, or too much hassle?
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