c64orinoco

I have a TT02B and it gets full of grit and sticks and leaves. I mitigated it somewhat by using some self-adhesive velcro around the sides of the body. This keeps the bigger bits out, but I still get all sorts of junk in the most unlikely places, like under the motor (?!), stuck around the driveshaft, under the steering servo, in the fins on the ESC. Nothing has been broken or damaged, but it needs a good clean every time I run it. I guess I could drive it somewhere less full of nature, but the park a mate and I frequently drive at is always full of nature, so the cars get full of it too!

I really enjoy the painting part, I find it quite relaxing. Maybe it's the fumes?

I'm utterly thrilled! Two hours of Photoshop were well worth it. @Badcrumble Your entry got one of my votes.

Saving pocket money for 12 months to buy a Super Champ. Trying to make sure 50cm aerial doesn't tangle in your wheels. Using a multimeter to do your peak detection charging for NiCds because you can't afford a decent charger. Swapping radio gear / servos from cars to planes to boats because you can only afford one set of radio gear.

I said that too, late in 2019 when I got back into the hobby. Just one new car, the restored Sand Rover and the Mini-Z I bought in the early 00's. I now have 10 cars (8 not built yet) and one truck-thing (a GF6-01).

I have an original 1983 SR, in 'original' condition - the body still has 1983-era dirt on it! I completely stripped it down and cleaned the chassis. It has broken front uprights, which I replaced with aluminium plate, and it (tragically) has missing teeth on one of the gears (unobtainium) so I really can't run it. It has had one run, just to see it going again and the noise the gearbox made wasn't nice; I'm too scared to run it again in case I strip more gear teeth. I hoping to get some 3d-printed gears to replace the originals for running it. Full strip down and rebuild diaries are here: Part 1 Part 2 Part 3

I have expereience with the PS40 translucent Pink - be very carefull to do very light coats, and let the coats dry. I was trying to do pink with bright silver backing, but I got too heavy with the coat and ended up with a deeper burgundy colour. Still looked ok paired with dark metallic blue, it just wasn't the bright pink I was aiming for. I've had more luck with the iridescent colours - the trick was LOTS of coats, then the black. I think I did five, maybe six coats (all as light as I could get them) before I put the black on. The result (I was doing the purple-green) looks fantastic, it really comes alive in bright sunlight.

Ok, just to confirm it was Istanbul, not Constantinople?

To do curved score lines on polycarbonate I use a swivel-head blade, like one of these: https://www.hobbyco.com.au/16004-k4-swivel-knife-with-safety-cap I find this works very well, as long as you do multiple light passes rather than try to do one single cut.

I might be daft and missing something completely obvious... but: How do you vote in the competition? I'm using Chrome as my browser in case it's some wierd browser-related glitch. I would be expecting to see a 'Vote' button or some such thing.

Go back 35 years or so and my first run of my brand-new, saved-up-for-12-months Super Champ. Dad drive me up to the local park, lots of wide open space. Off it goes, pretty quick (for the time) and I'm just getting the hang of it when it ... stops. Throttle does nothing, but I can see the front wheels still steer OK. On approaching the car I can smell something burning. The aerial (they used to be about 60cm long back then) had managed to wrap around one of real driveshafts, and jammed it. The smell of burning was the quirky mechanical speed controller the orignal Super Champ had thouroughly cooking itself to death. Run time had been about 1 minute, maybe 2. Lessons learned: spare parts cost more pocket money (although Dad was nice and paid for a new SC); don't leave loose aerial outisde the aerial tube, tape the free end down securely.

How is that filmed? Is it with a drone, or with a camera-on-a-stick? Presumably it needs a seond person?

In the type of ground effect the Lotus cars used, the ground effect is a product of the car's speed, as there were no moving parts apart from the skirts, and in the type 88 the whole chassis moved, but was essentially recreating the effect of a skirt. Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I think the 2022 F1 rules allow ground effect again which should be interesting but I digress. In cars like the Brabham BT46B and the Chapparal the ducted fans produced the suction, which would have been tied to the gearbox, probably the outdrive, so again the suction created is a function of the speed of the car. I don't know if they had a seperate gearbox driving the fan, certainly the BT46B didn't. In the BT46B they used the 'big flat plate' method of sealing under the car, it had big flat areas where the chassis flattened out as much as possible. I think the Chaparral used skirts, I'm not as familiar with it. An idea - could the skirt be a brush rather than a flat plate? It might not seal as well as a plate but might be better than nothing. As for how to control the drone fans - I would think you would want them at full power all the time for the greatest advantage. The time it would take to spool up if based on G loads I think would be too slow for the rapid changes in G-loads an RC car experiences. Consider scale here - the loads an RC car experiences don't scale up to bigger cars, it would be the equivalent of a full size F1 car pulling 20Gs through a corner. In real life they can tip 5Gs laterally. I suspect top-speed RC cars would easily hit 5G, but on such small and light bodies (compared to full size) the effects are not as pronounced. And the driver is not subject to them either. Does anyone have any data for lateral G-force on an RC car? The only data I have is that a lightwieght recevier got ripped off heavy-duty velcro in a buggy by G-force, and that was with a silvercan. I suspect RC cars experience very high G-forces which would also have an influence on ground-effect forces.

Whats the difference in price between the Schumacher and a Tamiya? I know the final driving quality might not compare, but are the prices of the kit equivalent?

Wet season and a La Nina, I don't think I'm going to get a lot of driving or spray-painting in this summer. Thanks for the SuperCheap Auto tip too, there's one just down the road.