Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

About Boomerang_didnt_come_back

  • Rank

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Thank you again. Currently marvelling at Tamiya 2mm "bendable" masking tape for window surrounds / rear light trim + number plate. Great product! Wondered about oven~worried about residual grease and fumes.... hairdryer~worried about dust (again!) Airing cupboard, on lint free (air permeable) cloth, under a plastic container over the weekend sounds like a good compromise. Quick blow with (oil free) air gun before clear coat to remove dust. Another concern is the reviews I've now read on using SprayCraft SP10 airbrush with propellant cans. Apparently, they clog (cold air freeze) if spraying anything more than detailing, i.e. spraying large surfaces with clear coat might cause problems.
  2. OK Thanks.... yeah will probably get a second body. Back to the question however. If I use soapy water method to adjust decals BEFORE clear coat, how do I ensure everything is totally dry and free from residual detergent before applying clear coat?
  3. Have I missed something here? Surely static versus RC is an irrelevant comparison, unless you're suggesting all this extra effort with clear coat is irrelevant when the kids crash it into the wall? The reality is that as a professional engineer, anything which looks less than perfect amongst friends, family and colleagues will receive the obligatory "call yourself an engineer... look at that painted thumbprint!" type comment. Secret confession - I now own 3000, 5000 and 7000 grit wet and dry, but refuse to buy three ply toilet roll.
  4. Johnson’s own the Pledge brand... I found a YouTube vLog which extols its virtues. Will probably buy a spare “runner” body, which I intend to spray gloss white, then Hydrodip with an obscure stars n’ stripes flag / skin.
  5. A household name online auction site. It’s got a new name (Pledge Revive It Floor Gloss) but I am reliably informed it’s the same stuff?
  6. Thanks for all your help on my "Dust and Static" post. In the end, I found that by washing in detergent, THOROUGHLY drying with an (oil free) air gun at work and spraying paint 2 foot in front of the dust extractor chamber (as opposed to in it with all the other undried pain dust), the dust problems mostly went away. The rest of my techniques were copied from an excellent blog on another site. Next step is detailing black window rubber, chrome details (door handles etc.) with a cheap (Spraycraft SP10) airbrush and Tamiya XF paints. BUT... Once that's done, my next dilemma arrives ---> Adhesive backed Tamiya decals will go accurately in place using soapy water method, so how do I ensure all decals are totally dry topside and underside such that no residual detergent (or water) can react with my clear coat, which is going over all pint and decals? If it helps, I am using Future Floor (Pledge floor gloss) as a clear coat through the same spray gun outlined above. Thank you fellow numpties!
  7. Thank you both for taking time to reply. Damping down the workshop spray booth (I'm an engineer, we have an extraction chamber) is a really good idea as the general area is quite dusty. Good idea about tack rags too..... I remember these from a while back whilst chatting to a former neighbour who happened to be an auto shop spray technician. My only concern is finding some which have solvents that won't react with Tamiya paint or the plastic body work.
  8. Anybody got any tips for stopping static from attracting dust to my paint job? Plastic bodied Tamiya Lunch Box. Spraying with fine primer at the moment. Primer goes on well (warming paint and body first etc.), then rubs back nicely with 3M scotchbrite pads (grey and white), and using lint free clutch to remove dust, but the cloth generates static, thus dust clings to the model at next spray. HELP! Thanks.
  • Create New...