Andy Stewart1
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Posts posted by Andy Stewart1
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I dug out my old RC stuff. This has not been touched in 30 years.
The yokomo is exactly as it was from its last race so all that needs is a battery pack to get going. (I threw all the batteries away when I was storing this lot). I am trying to get a saddle pack for it, I can’t see how a stick pack would fit in either the yoko or optima.
The vanquish was my first ‘serious’ car. I’d had remote control cars from very young the nikko type deal ...in fact I have those in the loft still.
But i remember it being slow and quite weak so I entered the world of racing and it all kind of went crazy.
Then the optima bought 2nd hand followed by the yoko which was the only one which was competitive against the myriad of super modified Schumacher cats.
Not sure what parts can still be got for any of these, I’m sure I’ll be scratching around somewhat. But would like to see them all at least running before possibly putting for sale who knows...
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I’ve found some Tamiya one’s on eBay thank you for that.
Out of interest, other than eBay, gumtree and the like are there any good places to look for 2nd hand or model spares ?
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Hi can anyone help with this - I want to create a spring loaded set up for the brake lever exactly like in the photo...
does anyone please know what this small cylinder with the grub screw is called or where I could get one?
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Following! :-)
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Pull start cover was hanging off, me rushing not tightening screws properly
- sale cancelled!!
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It was because id taken the front drive shafts out LoL !
Actually it was because of this thread I’d read about the Centre diff that I figured it out.
So I took it out for a run but it was either flying fast as I remember it or it was bogging down and going slow with no acceleration. I suspect fuel or air leaks.
Great fun sliding it about. I can’t figure out why the erratic running but there was fuel all over the place.
I’ve kinda lost patience chasing the gremlins.
I’ve had a great time but I’ve taken some pictures of it and I think it’s going to the eBay. I’ll take a few days to chew it over.
Anyone want an RS200 ?
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So I did this today. It’s going to take me a while to get that throttle and brake setting sorted out.
Took its time starting. Threw some penetrating oil down the barrel then it started whether or not that was a coincidence..
I think it’s running rich because i took it outside and it was REALLY REALLY SLOW even at full throttle hardly moving with loads of blue smoke, and when I pull back on the stick to engage the brake it just stalls.
Turn the carb screw anti clockwise a quarter turn? Or something more sinister is afoot?
Pull cord got snagged (the plastic runner hole at the top keeps coming off) and needs resetting so abandoned play for today as spent no time with family all day. Might get a short play tomorrow.
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13 hours ago, KEV THE REV said:
Pretty sure there is still a lot Stock Car racing around . I hope you get on ok with it , keep us posted .
Thanks will do. I’m going to go to the next meet at one of the local clubs and see how it all works. Would love to get back into it.
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I’ve found what I’m looking for on BRCA website. Super!! seems there is quite a lot going on. :-)
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I was just browsing the Internet looking at clubs and so on and wondered are there any clubs that actually currently race nitro cars “off road” in the UK either 1/10 or 1/8?
If so what would be the best scale / starter model of car to use?
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Thanks Junkmunki , I was very close to giving up I have to say, I was absolutely stoked when it fired up.
Now the fun part, hopefully. Getting the mixture right will be the next challenge.
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SHE’S ALIVE!!!!
1. Removed and blocked up the second prime pump as advised
2. Tightened on the fuel line to the tank
3. Found some old ear defenders in the garage attached to what looked like the correct diameter cord. Used it as a pull cord. Worked a treat and I think was the clincher. Could now ‘pull’ with a good stroke and a degree of confidence.
4. Blew through the fuel, tinkered with the carb settings, unscrewed the idle screw fully.
She ran off at first and then I messed around a bit and could get it idling. I couldn’t understand why the gear was running round then stupidly realised that if i just lightly sat a screw driver on the pinion gear it would stop it and the clutch would do its work. I do remember it would never just idle without moving slightly, clutch likely needs slight adjustment.
I also remember the black drops that used to drip out from the bottom of the pull start case lol.
If I figure out how to post a video I’ll do one of it running.
Thanks for your advices I couldn’t have done it without you guys help - mainly you WillyChang!
I have been barred from playing with it for the rest of the day but can’t wait to get it built now!!
Will post more pics once I get it fully going.
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Well, it’s definitely not ‘spraying’ out of anywhere when I blow.
I can see fuel there though when I pump the primer.
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2 hours ago, WillyChang said:
Yeah on a 'good' engine it's possible to suck in enough fuel into the combustion chamber to cause hydraulic lock... you'll need to remove the plug, flip engine over and pour the liquid out.
I suspect there's no fuel getting thru... did you test if the carb is really unclogged?
Try blowing into the pressure hose (remove it from exhaust) and blow fuel from tank into carb inlet... it should spray out thru the Venturi at the throat.
Thanks good idea! You are my guide!
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New glow plug starter, still zilch.
So disappointed.
New hoses check
oil down the cylinder head check
new fuel check
engine is pulsing air check
I would even settle for a little start and stop lol
Should I be getting some fuel on my finger holding it over the manifold ? Cos it is dry
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1 hour ago, WillyChang said:
You are using a fresh brandnew plug, aren't you...
Yes brand new , the one you recommended , fits perfectly.
One thing I forgot - the carb screw I wound all the way in then 1 &1/2 turns out
BUT the idle screw - I have no clue if this affects anything for starting
When throttle is shut I have just a small crack showing in the inlet - exactly as is required in the manual.
Is there a way to ‘set’ the idle screw?
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22 hours ago, WillyChang said:
yeah air filter not required until there's risk of grit getting in
Have you checked if the engine is actually PUMPING AIR?
When you turn it over, it should create an air pulse out the exhaust port.
Should be vacuum at the carb throat too, after taking off the carb.
Pumping air is one sign of healthy compression.
Did you slather it (piston, sleeve, all moving parts) with oil when rebuilding?
Drip 4-5 drops of oil thru glowplug hole onto top of piston. It should help improve compression, temporarily.
Hmm I made a reply but it isn’t showing up
I’m pretty sure there is compression I can feel it though the manifold and I did try with the oil as well.
I really think it’s the glow plug starter this old thing is not really making the plug glow all the way through and that together with the fact that some of the surface has dulled on the cylinder head through cleaning and it probably isn’t generating enough heat.
The new plug starter will be the last throw of the dice :-)
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21 hours ago, WillyChang said:
yeah air filter not required until there's risk of grit getting in
Have you checked if the engine is actually PUMPING AIR?
When you turn it over, it should create an air pulse out the exhaust port.
Should be vacuum at the carb throat too, after taking off the carb.
Pumping air is one sign of healthy compression.
Did you slather it (piston, sleeve, all moving parts) with oil when rebuilding?
Drip 4-5 drops of oil thru glowplug hole onto top of piston. It should help improve compression, temporarily.
Hi yes I am pretty sure there is at least some compression there, if I hold my finger over the manifold I can feel air being expelled. I did do the oil method as well.
So now onto the plug, when testing the plug out of the car it is not glowing hot all the way through and add to that the fact that the cylinder head has lost a bit of its coating in the cleaning process I think it could be retarding the current. These connections and croc clips are too old and corroded up and this is 30 year old tech.
So I’m going to try the new glow starter when that arrives and then I am out of ideas.
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Still won’t start. :-(
next I’m ordering a proper glow plug starter and today I’m putting on some new fuel pipe that arrived yesterday and doesn’t look the right size.
I’m not using an air filter I don’t think that should be a problem.
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1 hour ago, WillyChang said:
To stop a nitro engine... depends what you've got on you
- if you've got plug wrench, loosen the plug... possibly "kindest" way
- plug the exhaust... back pressure will choke the engine. It might also pump in too much fuel, hard to restart. Or you discover your exhaust leaks, doesn't keep enough or pressure to stop engine
- pinch the fuel line or upend the car/tank, starves the engine. But that also cuts the oil, so it might be running too lean for a short time.
- mechanically brake the flywheel. Preferably use your shoe leather not your finger.
Umm carbie jets are usually soft brass, don't be clearing them with anything harder than brass. Steel definitely harder than brass. Compressed air or aerosol WD40 or brake cleaner or contact cleaner is handy; might even need carby cleaner or aggressive MAF cleaner spray.
Thanks man, it’s currently sitting in an eggcup of acetone , is that a no-no?
New hoses and pull start start cord should arrive next week. No excuses then.
There is a black ‘sheet’ is the only thing I can describe it as, in the fuel tank. Not sure if attached to anything. Is this to prevent fuel splashing about?
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How do you stop the engine once it’s running?
What should I do with these?
in General discussions
Posted
Cannot find a nimh saddle pack anywhere!! what happened !?
Would these be any good?
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F163915373625
Might well just be just giving them to you
or is it possible / easy to cut up a stick pack and solder them? I do have the means to do so.