Andy Stewart1
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Posts posted by Andy Stewart1
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Head was down yesterday.
Not giving up.
Bought some pull start cord off eBay. Going to strip carb again check for blockages. Realized also I hadn’t cleaned out the feed port thingy in the manifold. I don’t understand what this does. It’s connected to the number 2 prime pump. The plunger one. If I bought a new generic tank it will have the right holes in the right places?
Something of note was that the glow plug was only glowing at the top, not at the ‘tip’. Normal? Probably worth buying a proper glow plug starter.
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Tried everything and then... game over :-(
will maybe try to source a new engine for it or just buy a second hand car
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hi So the bearing arrived this morning put it straight in and it works lovely.
engines not starting though. Removed glow plug. It’s bone dry.
When im priming using the fuel tank pumps, the 1 pump to the carb doesn’t seem to be pumping fuel as far as the carb itself
the 2 pump Into the manifold just forces the tube off
have I got the tubes hooked up the wrong way around , is the manifold one blocked or have I missed anything obvious
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4 hours ago, WillyChang said:
Seen a lot similar. Did a few myself.
Wouldn't be prepainted as they'd have gotten the Marlboro colours right way round
kiddies today wouldn't recognise what's Marlboro, Lucky Strike, 555 B&H nor JPS eh? So sad...!
lol Hahaha! True what has the world come to.
You know what I only just realised about the Marlboro colours being back to front. But yeh that was supppsed to be a Marlboro job of course.
Shame, I absolutely loved this body. So cool. So I will go for something new, see what I can find. I never really cared for the RS200 in metallic blue. The 405 in the OP’s picture looks more my cup of tea. Or a cosworth.
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2 hours ago, WillyChang said:
Did u paint it yourself? Looks handbrushed.
Yeh it was me, how can you tell!?
yeh not the best job. Definitely hand brushed, and probably almost certainly with Tamiya paint.
Next job will be all white. Back then it was the masking that let me down. Not sure if there was a paint on mask available but I used masking tape as this was all funds would allow, but it ruined the job. Other than that even today I’m impressed how I got the lines so symmetrical.
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What is your best tip for paint removal ?
is acetone too aggressive?
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20 minutes ago, WillyChang said:
yep I'm a perfectionist I'm afraid, and nothing's more perfect than pure vector artwork. Even the simplest sponsor logo could take an hour or three, each!
Kewl. For lights and so on, I think just taking photographic images and manipulating them to suit might be a decent option.
I might just have a crack at it. I’ve got a couple of weeks to wait for my bearing. I figured what the heck.
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1 hour ago, WillyChang said:
Do you know what's it painted with? Some paints ain't gunna come off without a fight.
Frewer offloaded their old molds to someone else overseas a few years ago afaik.
Many of the old bodies didn't come with photorealistic light stickers, that's only a recent development last 10-15yrs only. The gun painters would airbrush their own headlight designs; me with no skills just pasted on chrome foil.
Got involved in the vinyl trade 12yrs ago, spent many an hour trying to draw up artwork for decals... then @Incredible_Serious sourced a whole stack of Frewer 6R4 shells so I drew up paintmasks & full decal set for the Computervision scheme.
That sounds hot! I’d love to get my hands on that!
no idea about the paint, whatever they used for Lexan shells 30 yrs ago! I’ll get it off don’t worry!
so who’s the go to guy for decals these days then?
By the way I kinda work in marketing and graphic design so I have the relevant software and contacts to get stuff printed, but how did you go with that did you create stuff from scratch?
I did that for my real toy car (Vauxhall nova) I created some rally decals just from photos and a tape measure. Came out great.
But lights/grills etc , much tougher, but still doable I guess.
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5 hours ago, WillyChang said:
Usually takes a few weeks soaking...
that baked on castor crud is pretty tough. It doesn't dissolve either, acetone (already harshest solvent) only just encourages it to maybe flake off a little easier.
Got a ultrasonic cleaner?
Dont put solvent in the cleaner though. Fill cleaner with water. Put part & solvent into a sealed glass jar and put that in the water. Jar mush be sealed or else the ultrasonic will vaporise the solvent fast, can get explosive.
Thanks, that’s a long time to wait for playtime
i think they have an ultrasonic at work I’ll do a little asking around
Does anyone know where I can get a decal sheet for a BMW E36? I even found the original supplier Frewer international in New Zealand but they are not interested.
I want to repaint white and do the FINA livery but it’s the details I’m looking for such as lights and trim.
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Two days in the acetone. Not doing much. Just standing there staring at the bearing (That rhymes) and I wondered what happens if I pop that centre out?
can they be stripped?
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Thank you again. I guess I could try and get a tank to fit.
Had the bearing in some acetone. I can see the rollers they are silver, I can move them very slightly from side to side with a toothpick. Makes me think they are not stuck but maybe stuck inside yes or just worn. They do not protrude any, at least not to the naked eye.
May have to take the plunge and buy a new one then I’ll know.
Good tip with the oil to seal the engine lol
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Cheers man! all really good info !
It sounds like you have a ton of experience. I did race my electric buggies. I’ll do a post on these when I get to them (my first buggy was a brand new vanquish then I acquired a second hand optima mid and then a yokomo dogfighter) but one of the things I do remember was always the **** screws no matter where, coming loose! Well that and a host of other ‘problems’ ! lol
that box hasn’t been opened in a good while. It was quite amusing seeing the bits in there, each one would remind me of the journey. Such a great sport that I’m so glad I was part of.
Anyway, I’ve used some red hermaseta (spell?) on the engine. That stuff is vintage as well, last used when I did the head gasket on my nova about 20 years ago.
For the tank, I was considering a new one. Anything will work I guess? like: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F303265017584
no idea where I’d get hose
one question why is there a pipe from the exhaust manifold to tank is that for fuel pressure ?
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8 hours ago, WillyChang said:
Thank you so much for all of your guidance on this, absolutely no chance I’d have got this far without it! Exactly right the ‘bearing’ works as you describe.
so... yes it is almost certainly very well gunked and I didn’t soak it in degreaser yet for fear of damaging it. I wonder if some heat would help this one?
back in the day, we were running that gx-16 because the model shop told us what to use, we didn’t know anything about nitro engines, probably the oil content was too high and that’s why the thing seized up. It just got put away because the pull start was jammed.
I got my old model box out and found a snapped end of a pull cord inside. I can not remember that happening or how it got fixed!
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The more I look at this motor or should I say pull start assembly, the more I think this design is absolutely flawed.
Maybe i could chuck a modern engine in it
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I think I see more clearly now.
That bearing rotates at the engine speed over the shaft with the tiny rollers on the inside of the bearing (which I couldn’t see).
it did get a fair bit of use back in the day I can easily see how that would wear out.
so the bearing should not really just slide very easily over the shaft, it should be at least quite a snug fit
decision time, spend 20 quid now on a gamble or spec a new motor
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Hi I didn’t see your reply before I posted that just now.
I still don’t really understand now thing this should work but for sure if I hold the bearing on the pull start it isn’t giving any kind of resistance.
So, would a new bearing cure that or is the problem on the shaft side? I’m wondering if there is a bit missing
The bearing is just being ‘placed’ into the housing I’m locating the pin on the con rod but it’s all just ‘loose’
so I’m carefully introducing the back plate, which straightens the bearing up vertically, and houses to a small indentation on the back plate being held in place by screws, but that’s it there’s nothing else.
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I’ve put the pull start into the bearing, the shaft just spins inside it, it doesn’t grip.
New bearing is about 20 quid, but I bought the fuel now so...
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Well the engine is mainly back together but the pull start will not turn the engine.
I’m wondering if this chap is seized up
the inner part of the bearing should spin, right?
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Got the carb freed up nicely tonight.
Started to assemble the chassis. Could spend hours making everything gleam but I am way too impatient.
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My battery holder came yesterday so I put all the radio gear back together. Handset pushing 10 with new batteries :-)
Well it all works but I remembered how pathetically slow these servos are/were.
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Sorry for the rubbish picture but Is this about TDC?
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Thank you. I’ll just have to keep giving it some persuasion.
Dremelled off the contacts of the Glow plug starter and it’s giving 1.6v
attached it to glow plug but nothing (actually I crock clipped the earth onto the screw thread?) like is it supposed to ‘glow’ or just get hot? Anyway new plug definitely will be ordered.
Daft question time. Does this fuel actually ‘go off’ ? This tub is nearly full! :-) I’ve had petrol in the garage for years for cars and it’s been ok. Can you still buy this stuff or what’s the nearest equivalent ?
A Kyosho RS200 or two...or three...
in All things RC Nitro
Posted
Carb nozzle gunked up like crazy. Trying to degunk with a pin.