Andy Stewart1
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Posts posted by Andy Stewart1
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The original car came with a glowplug starter that carried 4 x D cells...
Are these ebay 1.2v starters going to work?
e.g. -
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F324032436871
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Ah thank you. That was a question for later - can I use gasket sealant in places where the gaskets were previously.
Would this be an ok type of glow plug to buy?
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F232489440320
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7 hours ago, WillyChang said:
Fuzzy unfocused pic but piston looks pretty scored.
btw DO NOT EVER clean/polish the piston or its sleeve at its curved cylindrical surfaces. Whatever carbon is built up there helps sealing for compression. Without compression your engine will never start again; if it won't run it can't regenerate carbon coating.
Piston is matched to its sleeve, don't intermix with another pair.
If ever I remove piston from engine for maintenance, I'll slide it back into its sleeve and leave it alone until reassembly. Nothing needs doing there, except preventive changing of the conrod occasionally. When compression is bad, wornout piston & sleeve needs renewing as a matched pair.
Good advice thanks. I did notice the scoring on the piston, this isn’t a reflection.
Should I take the sleeve/piston out of the de-gunking bath then? It’s just that the conrod was very stiff and presumed this would need a degunk.
If this doesn’t run it’s not the end of the world, I’ve learnt how to rebuild a 1/10 IC engine, and I’ll look for another suitable one, but I would be so happy if it did.
This weekend will check the glow plug battery pack holder and see if the glow plug still functions.
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11 minutes ago, junkmunki said:
That body looks very much like a Nissan Sylvia...
Close! It is Japanese.
Toyota corolla ae86
I’ll have to take the front drive shafts out to authenticate the rear wheel drive action!
Just don’t want to have to cut out a ‘sunroof’ lol
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Yay, I’ve got the carb off in one piece. It’s all soaking in a petrol and TFR cocktail.
Ive moved onto the radio gear and the silver contacts in the battery compartment of the handset covered in green oxidisation. Any tips for getting rid of this!? LoL
I might just buy a new set but if I don’t have to I won’t.
Hopefully I can start building it back up soon and I’ll just post a picture of the finished article and stop bothering you kind people. Thanks again for the support so far.
Might stick this bodyshell on it. Can anyone guess what it is?
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48 minutes ago, WillyChang said:
I don't think baking it is going to do much good.
I'd be soaking it in Liquid Wrench or acetone for a few weeks
That piston don't look too healthy.
How's the supply market for a new piston & sleeve?
Er.. non-existent.
Why, do you think this one has bitten the dust?
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Thank you your advice is very much appreciated.
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I just thought it would help loosen the gunk some more.
So would you soak the block and the piston in some motor oil for a bit to get them loosened up?
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Some more
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More photos 1
How’s that on the gunk-ometer?
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Progress...the cotton rag trick worked (thanks for that, I would not have figured that out on my own no way) so now I have a bare crank case... except , that carb screw will not budge.
Am I alright to drill it out?
The plastic lever on the carb.. is it supposed to move the air hole? If I can’t get this freed up are these carbs common across any other engines if I buy a new one? Because it is stuck solid.
Next im going stick it in the oven as advised and just leave it soaking in oil while I work on the rest of the car.
piston con rod also pretty well jammed
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30 minutes ago, WillyChang said:
Are you talking of the "Peugeot 205gti" wheel?
Yeah they can all be painted pretty well. Get paint meant for touching up plastic car bumpers though, they got extra elastoplasticiserwhatevr flex additive.
No they are a flat dish. I know the GTi type they look hot. I have those on my optima
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30 minutes ago, WillyChang said:
Videogames & VCRs killed the RC hobby! Greenies & dirt/oil/muckphobic modern kiddies killed Nitro! Dirty smelly polluting toys spewing noxious gases - HOW DARE YOU!!!
Dream on, there's no standardisation back then (nor now) for nitros. Different companies had different ways of attaching their pullstart to engine - different shaft, different backplate, different sizes & dimensions.
The mounting ears on the side, that's a throwback to airplane application. The actual position of those ears & their holes vs front bearing & crankshaft isn't standardised either. Buy a different engine you usually need different mounting blocks. If you had a common engine then car maker might make suitable mounts; if not they'd give blanks that you have to drill & tap the holes yourself.
Crankshaft output... there's different types too. Aircraft used a propellor so cranks had a thread for screw/nut against a knurled backing plate to drive the prop... car users chopped off the threading to give a blunt knob; clutch would clamp onto the round shaft. Then later clutches got bolted to a coned crankshaft outpost. And even later crankshafts had everything the clutch needed, just an E-clip to hold everything on. Mucho evolution but it really meant you'd be hard pressed to move a used engine to another different car.
Exhaust... there's "side" exhaust, "rear" exhaust... also harking back to airplane terminology.
But I like pullstarts. They're neat to have when the alternative is a Globee handheld electric bumpstarter that needs a car battery lugged along
The 1/10 Kyosho I've still got has the original OS-10; didn't know the GS11 fitted. (The OS has a flap in the exhaust, for back pressure?)
heck I love pullstarts so much I bought Inferno DX when it came out just for the novelty of having a GS21 with a pullstart
it was great for just walking to the park only carrying a fuel bottle! (and glowstarter, and a tuning screwdriver, and...)
Ok when I raced 1/10 with OS12CVX it usually got started on a bumpstarter box, but it still had a pullstart... saved walking back to the pits to restart.
By the time HPI Savage craze arrived... the S25 did come as a pullstart (for the SS pro geeks) but I soon ported & gasflowed that... and bolted on a Rotorstart instead. Ok I will admit... Rotorstart beats pullstart... long as its battery has juice.
Then it was Baja phase... yep the Fuellie 26 has a pullstart. One big mutha of a pullstart, and boy did that cause blisters.
TLDR... there used to be someone making long rods with oneway bearing, you'd stick that into a cordless drill. Take the pullstart off just leaving the backplate & shaft; you'd need a suitable car for that to work though.
Great post thank you! All true
thats a good little idea , cordless drill with a special UJ shaft to bend it 90 degrees hey presto. I’ll give it some thought.
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There is a good you tube video of a guy restoring an RS200. Looked great in the end and I learnt quite a bit about the advanced drive train and braking system.
But one thing annoyed me, after all the hard work cleaning, although he had cleaned up the wheels the best he could they still looked faded and let it down a bit.
I just thought , do you think just a quick coat of primer and a rattle can Matt finish such as you find at Halfords would bring these up and provide a lasting finish?
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1 hour ago, Collin said:
This pull starters cost me some nerves years ago. But once you know the little tricks, its quiet easy to put em together. I cant find it anymore but there was a video on youtube from a young boy explaining how to and it was magic how easy he did it.
Oh boy I wish I could see that video. Definitely had fun trying to get it back together.
Surely this can’t be the only pull start that will fit this engine, isn’t there another type with the same diameter shaft that could be made to fit somehow.
Answers on a postcard!
I have found the local model shops to be particularly unhelpful.
The industry seems to be a shadow of its former self which is a crying shame. This is a great hobby for a kid growing up rather than stuck inside playing play station all day.
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2 hours ago, WillyChang said:
well it's back together!
bad news... looks a bit floppy. Should be a tiny bit of spring tension to hold the T-bar taut against the case when fully retracted. Maybe just give the rope 1 more wind around the reel since you can access it all now. No need to disassemble.
You’re right , and I will get that extra wind but I had destroyed the c clip taking it apart and I don’t have it with me so I was being a bit cautious until I get home and fit a new one.
For sure I remember how weak the pull start seemed and as I wrote earlier this is why it got shelved all those years ago. What had happened is the coil had snapped where it attaches to the dolly.
I also remember this engine seemed to need to be started every 5 minutes for various reasons so im going to be extra careful when putting back together
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Thanks for the advices, I’ll try and get that out tonight.
Look what I did! It was a two-man operation , I got a work friend to help! First attempt!! :-) woo hoo!
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Many thanks I’ll give this a go tomorrow.
The pull start is still alluding me. I wonder if a generic one could be bodged to fit.
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13 hours ago, junkmunki said:
I would definitely take the cylinder head off. Once you've done that, if you turn the engine so that the piston is right at the bottom of the barrel, you can unhook the conrod from the crank pin and slide the piston out
I cannot get the conrod off the crank is there a particular way to do it?. I just tried to literally pull it off, wouldn’t budge.
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1 hour ago, WillyChang said:
In the past I've soaked crusty engine bits in a big can of acetone... the acetone turns orange so it must be dissolving something.
Would caustic oven cleaner spray hurt engine metals? At supermarket I see lots of oven cleaners, including one where you put your oven racks into the supplied plastic bag, spray on the cleaner and your chrome racks come clean of all burnt oil without scrubbing.
Great suggestion thanks! we will have some of that at home so definitely worth a shot!
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May I just say thank you so much for the help and advice, there is no way I would attempt this without your helpful pointers so far.
I’m going to drop it all in a bucket of TFR which I found to be pretty aggressive at removing the dirt on normal car parts.
more updates will follow
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More photos
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I tried to assemble the pull start again, is it best to put the coil in the plastic housing first, then fit the wheel, or wrap it round the wheel. Either way it’s virtually impossible! :-)
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Update.
took the one way bearing out. Gasket is disintegrated. It just fell out but the starter pin is just smooth. It just spins inside the bearing? How can I tell if it’s not working correctly? I’ve seen these are cheaply available so I shall buy a new one anyway.
The engine does turn, when I gripped the flywheel with a strong pair of pliers and turned it very hard. So just need degunking.
Removed exhaust manifold, taken one carb screw out but the other was very very tight and I’ve turned the screw head. I may have to drill it out to get the carb off? Easy to find a replacement screw?
Is it a good idea to take the cylinder head off , I see 4 Allen bolts at the top?
When you say to use penetrating oil do you mean such as WD40 or some 3 in 1 type of oil?
Whats the best way to get the whole thing cleaned up I take it dropping it in the parts washer is not ok? (Or ok If I put it in the oven afterwards?)
A Kyosho RS200 or two...or three...
in All things RC Nitro
Posted
I’ve taken the sleeve and piston out of the cleaning fluid. I tried to insert the piston in the sleeve and it wouldn’t fit. I got a bit of oil and eventually I have got it in and moving freely. But only to the point where the piston is fully into the sleeve, the port almost fully closed just a small gap showing. Is there a maximum point where it will not and should not go past?