Jontea

Stripped the motor/esc out of DT02, put it in DT02+, shimmed front wheels (0.4mm per side), no annoying play in the wheels now. Ready for a play, as long as the sky stops crying.

Servo installed, Kimbrough Racing servo saver fitted, had to chop the top off it so that the front top deck would go on. Due to the way the servo saver is made it centres better than the bog standard savers, will use these from now on.

Final (for now) parts have arrived for DN(F)01 and DT02+. DN01 gets: 54285 yellow front wheels 54287 yellow rear wheels 54260 slipper clutch DT02+ gets: Schumacher black rear wheels 54397 servo mounts Core 9008 digital servo Schumacher stagger rib wide fronts, and mini spike rears for whichever buggy I feel like taking out. 51283 reinforced adjusters, just because I was ordering and spares come in handy.

Do you have another esc/motor to try each with? Preferably ones you know work.

They are a simple, quick build, even with tapping all the threads on mine (Sand Viper), and installing several hop ups, took about 4hrs actually building. One of my favourite chassis to work on and run.

I haven't run the new threaded build yet (DT02), so won't comment on that, but having run my DN01 through about 20 packs, on mixed terrain, no problems so far, none of the machine screws have loosened (I check after each run). I've had a couple work loose on my original self tapper DT02, and one that will not tighten at all, ended up taking the screw out, running a thin layer of super glue down the hole, let it set, then put the screw back in, very tentatively, didn't do it up too tight. I don't mind screws coming loose over time, the vibrations a buggy undergoes while being thrashed means you've gotta expect summat to come loose eventually. I guess the only cure is to "cement" them in, but then if you break a part, good luck getting the screw out.

I ordered in bags of 50-80 depending on screw size, so I'll never go short. I just looked at the kit instruction manuals I have and bought the length of screws that were commonly used, 10mm is most popular so bought more of them, 18mm not so common so bought fewer of them (well actually 20mm as WF didn't do 18mm).

For screws I used Westfield Fasteners, they have most the common sizes, where a kit required 15mm, they did 16mm which is ok, and for 18mm I ordered 20mm. As for taps I just ordered off eBay, didn't pay much, and they do the job perfectly well.

Just a general tip ,(most of you probably do already), tap threads in Tamiya kits, use machine screws rather than self tappers. I've built two DT02 Sand Vipers this year, the first was my first build after a 30 year break from the hobby, so just followed the instruction manual, the second was finished today, never touched a self tapper, in fact that screw bag wasn't even opened. I've used a M3 0.5 thread tap and A2 stainless M3 0.5 hex head screws, the fit and security of the screws is far superior to self tappers, no more of that "ooh, just one more turn, ah ****, too much".

For those of you who are into this kind of thing (the geeks), a parts list! 58374 Sand Viper 53587 5mm shim set 53585 3mm shim set 53791 DF02 universal shaft kit 54028 Aeration damper set 51283 5mm reinforced adjusters 53942 42mm hard turnbuckles 53943 46mm hard turnbuckles 54395 3x22mm low friction suspension shaft 51414 TRF201/DN01 front wheels U4365 Schumacher 12mm hex rear wheels Westfield Fasteners supplied the A2 stainless M3 0.5 hex screws, used 10/12/16/20mm button head, and 12mm countersunk head. Think that's everything.

And the "standard" DT02, with it's new bouncy bits.

As DT02+ will look when it's ready for the outdoors.

Well, that's it built.

Just that middle bit to go now.

Erm, not having used them both yet, not sure, in hand the Aerations feel smoother, more shims and spacers inside them, and the piston rods are treated with summat. They are both obviously a step up from kit shocks, if I was to buy more, I'd probably go for the Aerations, nicer to build, and feel better in hand. Being honest though, for a basher, both are probably a bit ott, but I think if you like the look of a buggy, you probably get greater enjoyment out of driving it.

Back end bolted to gearbox. Will leave shock towers as a post breakfast treat, then it's just screwing it all to the bathtub and hanging the shocks on it. Stay tuned for more exciting updates in the BDAD adventures.

Front end, front axles shimmed, lower mounts using stainless pins and e clips rather than screw pins, turnbuckles from tother DT02.

All threads are being tapped, so slow progress, using stainless, hex, M3 machine screws, very agreeable. Gearbox done.

Pizza was good. A balless diff is a happy diff.

While pizza's in the oven, prep the work desk.

Time for pizza.

Tonight's first job, finish last night's jobs, build the DF03 shocks, these will go on the DT02 I have been thrashing around since February, the Aerations will go on DT02+ (the build for which will also start this evening, love a build evening!).

No not yet, don't know whether to, gonna run em as is for now, see how they perform. I found the lack of instruction on that part bewildering, it'll be online somewhere, will look when I decide to (or not). They feel very good though, and sit nicely on the DT02. As far as I know, loosen the screw, compress the shocks til all the air is out, do up the screw, I may be missing summat though, but that's basically how I understood the process.

Aeration shocks up first. Many parts = plush feeling shocks.

Tonight's tasks will be building a couple of sets of shocks. Delivery date was way off, 2 weeks early for the Aerations, and 3 weeks early for the DF03. Not complaining, obviously.