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Howards

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  1. Had the same thing. Ordered two things. One thing turned up. The other didn't. Got on to them and they said they'd post another thing. They did not. I got on to them again and they said they would definitely post the thing. Later I asked them again where the thing was, and they replied telling me to be patient in a kind of 'yes yes we are writing it all down' kind of way. The thing never arrived. So that's an 'avoid' from me.
  2. Maybe with smaller pinions and hot motors (!) it's less of an issue as the motor is positioned further inboard. If I had mine with me at the moment I might try to drop a Tamiya brushless in it and see if it fits.
  3. Sure? The top deck assumes the barrel of the motor is tapered - with a straight barrel the control arm mount looks like it will foul the motor.
  4. These can take quite hot motors if built right. I’ve got a 10.5 sensored in mine but it can go much quicker. Just make sure the diffs are tighter than the slipper
  5. yes - the use of tape makes it all the more impressive
  6. Remember watching this and thinking OMG HE USES TAPE Whats that all about then?
  7. A good illustration of value being entirely contextual.
  8. Yeah. Clean up the threads. Clean up the inside of the knuckle. Drop of thread lock in the thread in knuckle itself. Re-grease the barrel of the screw - but not the thread. Then try to get it all together without getting grease mixed with thread lock. Good luck, it's a huge ball ache.
  9. I think the issue here is that an airbrush isn't designed for consistent coverage over large areas. 0.3 is for detail work. You might do better with a wide spray pattern brush tip - even a cheapo single action bottom fed thing will do a fair job at larger coverage. Or even something like an LPHV gun. Also...primer. Are you using primer at all? With acrylic paints applied with an airbrush I've always applied primer from a can first. I see that the TS paints don't seem to need a primer though. Hmmm. Have you tried the acrylic paints rather than TS? X paints for example. I paint lexan bodies with a combination of airbrush and backing with PS paint. Without the backing (and with hard plastic you have no equivalent of this other than primer or a base coat from a can) the finish is very weak.
  10. Howards

    VQS .....

    Worth direct soldering the speedo motor wires to the motor plugs. Those Tamiya inline plugs can get hot and melt - probably more likely if you are going to use a punchy lipo.
  11. I cut and painted a set of shells for someone on here. Somewhat stressful...to say the least. Then you have to ship them...
  12. ( as a side point, you can get fixated on the quality of you cut job if you cut then paint. If you are brave and paint then cut you get a better feel for the level of quality required for a 'good enough' cut job. )
  13. For long straight lines I've found scoring then snapping then sanding flat with sandpaper around a wooden block (for the straightness) is effective. It's hard to get a straight finish with a Dremel - with a sanding wheel it tends to bounce and is very sensitive to variances in pressure and resistance. Still the forward and rear edges of wings especially Tamiya period ReRe wings are absolute sods to get right.
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