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Toolmaker72

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  1. As the man above said, but put plainly if you fit speakers in a parcel shelf then no boot mounted sub as when the sub moves it’s affecting the air in the boot which in turn is moving the parcel shelf mounted speakers. Generally speaking you with have a fabulous sounding system using just the front speakers and boot mounted sub. If you still wanted parcel shelf speakers and a boot mounted sub then you need to box the shelf speakers so they have there own enclosure space unaffected by the subwoofer.
  2. The sub enclosure I’ll be using has the speaker hidden inside with the port letting the sound out. Perfect to vent via the rear metal shelf. The enclosure in the boot then allows the amplifiers to be bolted to it and out the way. Fingers crossed I’ll still have easy access to a full size spare wheel and usable luggage space. That car is still a way off being complete......only just got the bottom painted 😳
  3. Thank you. Just low end stuff but packs a decent punch for me
  4. Gave my little Ford Fiesta boot a clean today and then a photo.
  5. I thought metal to metal pivot was a better option than printed plastic to moulded plastic. It never cost me anything and works a treat on a hopper chassis 🙂
  6. Those look good 👍, what sort of enclosure are you thinking of? I had a pair of sealed enclosure Sony 12s in the back of a 2002 focus estate and they were loud! I think 200w rms per speaker from a kenwood mono amp. At Leman 24hr for a couple of years that car was the sound system for the group I was with. Then married and divorced within 6 years put paid to nice things until recently. Big power amps have moved on a lot since the early 2000’s 🙂
  7. I wondered what truck the speakers were being fitted to. As you say if it comes with two batteries already it must have a split charge circuit there already and a good alternator to do that. your infinity midranges, is it possible to fit them at the base of the a pillar but firing towards the driver position? Speaker reflection hmmm......it’s like the big no no in car audio but it’s what happens inside a vehicle anyway. Years ago I had a car with stock dash position speakers shooting straight at the windscreen, I was advised to fit door mounted speakers high up instead with a tilt towards the driver. I did that and maybe a little more clarity but not much to be honest, probably due to a 2 way speaker than the stock dual cone. Then eventually bought a pair of tweeters fitted those in the stock dash position together with the full range door mounted speakers and that made a huge improvement! So for me reflection off the windscreen worked in that car. It’s something I’m going to do again with a slight difference. Use 4 tweeters up front via a 4 channel amplifier. So 2 or 3 way door components as per normal then gradually bring in the dash tweeters so they fill in the stereo sound without pin pointing where they are if that makes sense? I’ll use the amplifier gain for that and in theory the gain will be less than the door mounted tweeters due to sound reflection making them appear brighter.
  8. That’s certainly a lot of amps in those cables. Do you use additional charging on a second battery or a bigger alternator? Just wondering do those massive capacitors do anything for the subwoofer amplifiers or are they just for show? ive got some old skool kicker gear, mostly still boxed but not as heavy duty as yours. It’s original kicker impulse 5 or 6 channel amplifier. Kicker resolution 8” subs, 4” components kit, 51/4” component kit and a 12” impulse subwoofer. That’s the only American stuff I have. I have an old Alpine headunit (pull out) but no internal amp along with a 6 way alpine active xover. It came fitted to an old jag I bought years ago with 4 Harman Kardon amplifiers. I was thinking of fitting it to a 91 Range Rover I currently have that needs restoration lol. All my stuff is old and/or needs restoration. All looks good on paper though 😉
  9. Simply made my own version, can be done even simpler with a L shaped bracket filed to size 😉
  10. You only need a couple of tweeks regarding wiring. The over sized positive power cable ideally is terminated at another fuse block with separate fused feeds per amplifier. The earth cable should be equal in size (gauge wise) but only short is needed. Again use a terminal feed per amplifier with one common Earth point. It helps stop ground loop feedback although all amplifiers dating back 30 years have circuits to stop that. Just good practice to use a single earth point. Power output wise on the amplifier. A 4x40-50w rms on the full range speakers and a 100-150w rms on a single 10” or 12” appropriate subwoofer will give you a massive improvement over factory standard fit. There is something called headroom where as your amplifier gives more power than needed for its speakers. You never crank up the gains to make louder but it allows signals to never be deformed when a lower power amp could be reaching its amplification limit. Also rough rule of thumb for balanced sound when using component speakers is double up each time from tweeter power. So say 2x20rms for tweeters, 2x40rms for mids, 2x80rms for woofers and 2x160rms for subwoofers.
  11. 1 amplifier is cheaper and less wiring. You can get 5 channel amps within a single heatsink also so again just one set of power cables. With regards to setup using a single 4 channel amplifier, use a pair of stereo channels for the front door/dash speakers and as you say bridge the other two channels for a single 4 ohm subwoofer. I think you will need a bit of a funky design sub enclosure to make the most of the power available from the bridged channels. Set the head unit or amplifier high pass filters to on for the front speakers and play with the low pass filter for the subwoofer. Match the amplifier gains to your head unit preout voltage and you should have a lovely sounding full frequency range between the front speakers and subwoofer. Use the headunit front and rear fader to adjust between subwoofer and front speakers
  12. I was restoring some car parts and dug out this amplifier that had seen better days. So striped the heat sink back to metal and re-painted it. There are two I did. Old Kenwood. Kac 846 and kac 816. They are wrapped up again, more carefully this time though 🙂
  13. Well I’m not 72 years old but I am a toolmaker. Car audio I’ve been tinkering since I started driving. Each system a little better than the last. The amplifiers I use are old now, but they still work well. Picture below shows boot install I built about 16 years ago. Looked lovely but had to crank up the sub to hear within the cabin and then it just rattled the boot lid. As that car is being rebuilt the system build will be as well. The slightly different sub box design to vent the generated sub frequencies straight into the cabin. I’ve managed to get hold of a vintage kenwood 6 way active crossover. 3 way components up front and possibly 2 way are the rear. The rear shelf I’m actually thinking just mid/bass with no tweeters. The front is another dilemma. Bass and mids in the door with tweeter on the A post? Or bass in door with mids in dash top and tweeters in A post? Or bass, mids and tweeters in door but another set of tweeters in dashtop or A post? 🧐
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