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Toolmaker72

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  1. So gave the body a couple of coats of white plastic primer, rubbing down between them then a top coat yesterday and most of the scratches and digs had vanished. So another wet rub down and pictures below show the second top coat. I’m pleased with the finish. Not too immaculate but much much better. I’ll leave the paint to harden for a couple more days before applying grasshopper 2 decals. A top clear coat to seal them onto the body and stops the annoying corners lifting when dusted. Last picture I’ve tried to show the slightly creamy colour of white used
  2. Body clean and keyed ready for first primer coat. It usually highlights digs and marks. Then a fine body filler can be used with more rubbing down. Takes a few days to do for paint and filler to cure properly before a nice gloss coat is applied
  3. Recently bought this as an original runner. The wheels were kurbed super grasshopper versions with a set of front black cva damper and red rear pogo sticks on the rear. Granted it did run but poorly. Pictures below are with its triggers broom parts fitted. Namely a new chassis and front wishbones. Replaced the front black cva dampers with yellow and a cobbled set of rear yellow cva dampers in conjunction with super hornet fittings. Rear axle I’ve fitted my own design of bracket to stop axle tramp when powered forwards and enables the rear axle to roll properly. Body is good original, obviously needs to be restored. Wheels are good originals I’ve had for an age. Notice the same shade of off white matching the body. That will be a problem if I spray paint the body in glacier white. Might do it old English white so as to keep the wheels paint free. I’ll update as and when if anybody is interested 🙂👍
  4. Looks alright 🙂👍. Black body blends nicely into the chassis.
  5. Technigold motor sang when powered with a 7 cell 8.4v battery. The old plastic end standard motors used to just get hot and melt with heat from the bearing. So compared to those it was a good motor. I had a Parma k stock running 8.4v in a grasshopper that was quicker in a straight line than a friends technigold powered boomerang
  6. A little bridge I made so as to stick the receiver or speed control to but still allow its removal by unbolting the bridge. Also bolted the driver figure on for same easy removal reason if I need to strip the chassis again.
  7. So here is the front of my frog at the moment. I like the possibility of just fitting a pair of those sand scorcher dampers. Keeping the original frog springs
  8. Get it sitting lower perhaps with damped front suspension
  9. Dark green is a good contrast to the red chassis 👍
  10. Thanks for the pictures and info 👍. The front upgrade kit I have absolutely no idea what it’s worth. Looks good though 🙂
  11. Thanks for the pictures 👍, I’m using the monster beetle uprights at the moment in conjunction with frog original front suspension springs. I’ll have a look later after work and try to minds eye what I need to do.
  12. Just wondering if there is solution of fitting dampers on the front of a frog but keeping the radius arms fitted?
  13. If you apply heat to those steering arms from say a hot air paint stripper you can gently bend those arms in to give the clearance required. Put under a cold running tap to quickly cure the plastic. As above you will need to shorten the steering arms
  14. Thanks for the pictures. Doesn’t seem to be a popular model. The body I notice does sit quite high. Just wondering if the mount points could be altered?
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