Toolmaker72

Good time to possibly upgrade to a 4.6 from a p38 Range Rover.

So many issues with ethanol and classic car fuel systems. The best idea I came up with was deleting the in tank fuel pumps and going a little older with boot mounted fuel pumps. That allows myself to fully drain the fuel system if the car goes into prolonged storage. The SU carbs are very simple devices so not difficult to repair. Had its first start up this week after the rebuild. Amazingly good for a first start up on carbs. Next stage is finalise all mechanicals. Gearbox needs a running flush, then the concoction of oil and additives, fill the diff as well before the running gearbox flush. I’ll be doing the interior soon so probably ready autumn but then it’s tracking time. Lots of shims involved if things need adjustment 🙄. So plenty of work yet

Dash fitted, screens front and rear fitted, expensive coated exhaust manifolds fitted. Not far from first start up in 9 years 😳

Don’t forget to measure the diameter of the wire used. Just counting turns isn’t the only measurable 😉

Built a few of the scorcher on frog chassis. I found the front sits a little too high unless you shape it around the radius arms on the front suspension.

Give it to you for making your own lights. Far more knowledge than I have. I thought I did well with a green bulb lol. 😲 I’ve been having fun sorting out correct length bolts etc whilst putting it back together. I had painstakingly cleaned up most of the fixings and then re-plated them. Hidden stuff in stainless especially in difficult to access areas. Just burns hours doing details a bit like the wiring and wrapping and cutting then crimping etc etc. sometimes I wish my hobby was just the model cars 😕

Oh just looking at my pictures, if you still have the all red American spec tail lights you can fit a green bulb to flash as an indicator to glow orange through a red lense. I tried it out on my Jag American spec all red lenses and it works well

I know exactly how you feel regarding the weather. We watch the news and the world seems to be on fire or extreme heat. South Wales it’s rained non stop for nearly the past 9 weeks. jobs to do outside have waited and waited. Now we seem to be in a rush as it’s not long before the nights draw in 😕. regarding your diff ratio, I think it depends if you just cruise around or want Uber acceleration. Your engine has the torque to pull tall gear ratios. Slightly lower diff ratio would make it feel lighter for acceleration obviously less mpg. Not a direct comparison but I’ve kept my low ratio diff in my 77 Jag xj6 for acceleration but then fitted a 5 speed box to bring the revs down at speed. Best of both worlds then. The original 3 speed auto used to max out the top speed to 120mph. The 5 speed pulled 135mph with no other engine tweeks and didn’t have enough torque to hit the red line flat out. More importantly at 70mph the revs dropped from 3500 to 2800. I’ve had a play with the engine now so I should get it to or very close to 150mph. That’s if I ever get the car finished.

The subwoofer box build has worked well 👍. You could line the inside with Dacron wadding to help stop reflection back to the cone if you haven’t done already. if you find the time to separately box the 6x9 speakers as well then you will have a lovely sounding system when it’s all complete. Just a thought, to gain a little extra volume you could make an angled spacer ring to fit the speakers cabin side. Then when you cover in carpet you get the nice contoured shapes rather than flat with a speaker on top. I know it’s extra work but it’s make something good to something special 😊.

Without seeing the condition of the foam underneath I couldn’t say if it’s good or not. The wrinkles on the top of the bolsters could be because the cover needs to be pulled down the back a little more and at the same time that seam needs pulling down at the front. Problem I’ve found is with ready made covers you don’t know if the pattern has been made smaller to compensate for old original foams. The metal O rings should be closed up when fitting a cover but it’s dependent on the position. So ideally take pictures remove the cover and start again. You need the top fitting snug over the foam. No hollows or saggy wrinkles. Then hog ring either the top of the bolster seams first or possibly the horizontal seam first. Then give the back another pull to keep it all tight and to see if it shows up any wrinkles or hollows, manoeuvre cover all the time to keep it straight and wrinkle free, pulling on the seams and back and watching if creases appear or disappear with each pull. Gradually the cover should be looking better, massage seams to lay the way you want. It’s very hard to give advice without seeing how the cover is originally fitted. Those tans seats I did took roughly 2 1/2hrs to fit the backrest covers per seat. It’s not a quick job. Your seat cushions look ok though 👍😊

Recently finished these seats. Couple of niggles with the patterns but overall a good fit

Sorry for slow reply. The yellow wheels were from a grasshopper 2 super G. I think the gold nova fox wheels would be the way forward. Green and gold is a good combination 👍😊

400-500mm depth is plenty to box in the 6x9 speakers. You need to do this as the subwoofer will move those 6x9’s and it will sound poop. Use a 80hz high pass filter on the 6x9’s to start with and tune until you have a good distortion free sound. Then adjust the subwoofer to suit the 6x9 sound. Box the 6x9’s from the shelf straight down and use the angle of the rear seat backrest for a little more volume. Line the bottom of the boxes with Dacron wadding to adjust the volume within to suit the speakers. Keep the sub unboxed below the shelf to use the remaining boot volume. That should give a nice balanced sound overall. Then adjust the headunit bass and treble afterwards to suit your music.

That looks a big parcel shelf to enable a 10” sub. What is the depth under it? Newer subs tend to work with smaller enclosures but I still stick with 1cubic ft for a 10 to 1.5cubicft for a lower note but it does reduce the power it can take before it flaps around. The other way is just box the 6x9’s and let the sub use the boot space. The rattles and vibrations good luck lol. Keeping things sealed and well constructed is key. Tiny air leaks whistle and very annoying once everything is back together. Regarding the T-tops, why don’t you make something specific to hold the roof parts in the boot rather than a bag that can still move around within the boot space? Just an idea 💡🙂

Just to add my experience. Using a gearbox brace and original hex drive shafts I’ve been running a 3930kv motor with 3s lipo and nothing slips or clicks. I then built another car using a lower powered 2s battery motor combo and the dog bones pop out instantly over bumpy ground. To also note the hex drives are hardened steel and last a very long time if kept clean and well lubricated. Picture of hex drive car below.

Just a little tip for the rear speakers. You need to separate the enclosure space of the 6x9 from the subwoofer. Even better if the subwoofer has its own enclosure also. If left all free air, the subwoofer will be pushing the 6x9 cones and vice versa which starts to cancel out the subwoofer frequencies. The subwoofer if boxed will also give a consistent sound regardless of boot open or shut. It’s yet another job but worth doing. I’m doing something similar on a saloon rear metal shelf but using just 4” rear stereo speakers, smaller sealed enclosures and the subwoofer sound will be via a bandpass enclosure port into the cabin.

Don’t envy you with all those wires. As you say, a little warmer in the garage helps. I’ve been sorting wires also the past couple of weeks. Key is take your time. The TVR loom is too long as standard with it being tied and curled up to all sorts to reduce its length, so thought tidy it up, shorten it, move stuff to better location for future maintenance etc etc. So fuse box is now in the glovebox, the ecu and it’s relays now sit where the fuse box was. The battery now clear of excess wiring curled up on top of it, which just had a flap of carpet between to stop it all shorting out. Currently waiting for new connections to solder in the fuse box when I shorten that main wiring loom. All fun and games lol. 🙄

Well that actually cheered me up 😊

Sent this away last summer for a bit of work, ended up with a new chassis and fresh coat of paint. Has a few wiring issues currently which I’m working through while it has no interior. Sometimes I wonder why I give myself expensive grief 😕

Try using plumbing flux as that cleans up copper pipe lovely before soldering. I had a call earlier today the bonnet won’t shut as the upgrade carburettor is touching the inside of the outer skin. so now the bonnet will need a bubble blister to get the required clearance which is a pain as the bonnet is looking perfect at the mo 🙄

Looking good 👍 my own car has now had the engine fitted so the door shuts can now be painted ready for the outside. I’m waiting for a few start up issues once the engine is full of coolant. Takes ages getting old stuff right