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About Pylon80

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  1. If you ever want to enter the "in-one" challenge, you are going to have to score and fold
  2. Me too! There's a questionable Yeah Racing part that enables shortening the M-07 to 210mm, but then the rear of the chassis would poke out of the body, at least on a Golf. I suspect an Alpine body would be fine though. Then there's the body post holes that might not fit anymore with the M-07 if your body is pre drilled but I'm not 100% positive on that.
  3. Anyone who has entered Postal knows the meaning of just "1 more lap", so 4 extra laps is incredible! There is something about the M-05 in 210mm for postal. Very agile and yet being FWD you can push it so hard once you figure out the tires. "When properly used... swish swish... it's almost invincible" (voice of the Wu Tang talking about swords at the beginning of the 36 Chambers album )
  4. I am running a 17.5 in my M-05 which is still a lot of power for 2 tiny front wheels, but necessary due to gearing limitations. I did procure the 3Racing high speed gear set (that I think @Tamiyastef is using already) so that I can use my 21.5 in the M-05 at some point. I think the power will be perfect. Just some thoughts!
  5. Rear uprights and Universals The kit comes with 2 options for the rear uprights, regular ones and HRC, which does not stand for Honda Racing Corporation but rather High Roll Center. For starters I will use the normal ones as usual. They are designed along the same principle as the front ones in terms of having the suspension shafts slightly tight fit inside the knuckles so that the rotation is entirely done by the shaft inside the arms; this reduces play to the absolute minimum since the arms are wider than the knuckles. There are also 4 options of inserts that go inside the knuckles and I followed the instructions and used the starting point which is labeled as '+1'. The insert is held by 2 grub screws and you need to be careful not to poke through the insert! I used my reamer as a gauge to tighten the grub screws until I obtained the desired fit: A blue aluminum insert is then attached to the knuckles and the ball stud screws over the insert with a shim that allows fine tuning roll center. Then we move onto what is perhaps my favorite part of this superb chassis: the universals. The axle is machined accurately to act as a bearing journal and it fits inside a very wide bearing: this is how the cross pin of the universal is held! Genius! This way there is no need for pesky springs or the dreaded grub screws of doom (that always come loose). This will make maintenance extremely easy and fast. All you have to do is unscrew the turnbuckle and extract the universal parts, dunk in alcohol and re-grease. On the topic of grease I also went against my usual habit and heeded the manual's advice to use grease rather than oil. I don't think I should second guess Associated on this There is a lot of debate on how grease will attract dust and damage the universal etc but I think that only applies to models that will not see much maintenance. I do use oil on my Tamiya postal racers and it is working ok. I just don't have the time to open and clean the universals and double joint cardans after every evening of Postal Racing. A racing buggy is meant to be raced, disassembled, cleaned and raced again. The supplied "black grease" seems very similar in thickness to Tamiya AW grease. I am wondering if it is a grease substrate with graphite powder inside? In any case the result is super smooth. Needless to say, the hexes are blue aluminum clamp type. It never ends does it Associated are obviously not using hop-ups as part of their strategy; or perhaps the competition with TLR and others is so fierce that they all need to supply "full blown" race kits as standard. Who knows. Turnbuckles I was looking forward to this part and I gleefully got my usual left hand and right hand rolling taps ready, only to realize that racing buggy turnbuckles are 3.5mm thread! Again this is all so foreign to me. My trusty Hudy tool does fit though; however I ended up saving it for Tamiya blue turnbuckles that require a very accurate tool to avoid getting marred. The Associated turnbuckles are stainless steel and as such have no coating what so ever that you could scratch and are very strong. They get my other steel/stamped Hudy turnbuckle tool that I use on steel turnbuckles instead. Unable to use a rolling tap I resorted to holding a turnbuckle in a small vice and using plenty of grease I was able to get 6 left handed threaded adjusters and 6 right handed ones. I always identify the left handed ones with a dot for future reference if I ever dismantle the links: And now, it looks like a car: My friend El Chupacabra (Race #5) is happy!
  6. Yes, the + and - of the Batt slot are connected to the same "bus" as the black and red of channels 1 and 2. It's the same thing as if you were using channel 3.
  7. I think 'bonkers' is the word that best describes everything I'm seeing so far. When I saw the B6's at the track fly off the triple jumps I think I paused with open jaws for a few seconds 😉
  8. Gear Box The box is using a series of small idler gears, an even number for the motor pinion, spur, idlers and diff to make the car move forward as the motor turn counter clockwise. Using many smaller idlers makes for a very low CG gear box. More nice bearings with one side metal shielded and the other rubber shielded. The diff goes in: I heeded the manual's advice and applied a tiny amount of ball diff grease to the gear train instead of leaving it dry. A first for me, but I don't want to second guess Associated at this particular game The buggy will only be run on the indoor manicured off road track that didn't seem to have much dust at all when I went there; so it should all be fine. The aluminum part that hold the ball studs for the rear camber link is another superb piece of CNC work and blue anodizing. All closed: There is something ever so slightly notchy in one of the idlers... I will have to keep an eye on that. It's possible that it will break in by itself as I run the car. The motor mount, which will do the talking for me: Slipper Clutch This is a first for me and a feature that is standard on all modern buggies, since the point is to fly high and land without the wheel speed matching the speed of the car; and repeat the abuse all day long. The kit came with 2 spurs, including a larger one for 21.5 and 17.5 which is the one I am using It's very easy to put together and I followed the manual for the initial adjustment. I will have to learn how to set it correctly which I have been reading on a bit lately. Installation on the Chassis and Rear Arms And the entire gear box and slipper go onto the chassis along with the rear arms. The gear box is used structurally to hold many things (rear arms, camber links, differential, motor...) and so it is attached with an impressive 8 screws total. It is definitely starting to look like a buggy. So much that I could not resist putting the body on just to see what it looks like: One not about the rear arms, unlike everything else so far I have not tapped any threads into the arms before installing the long grub screws that will be holding the dampers. I even cleaned the threads with alcohol. The manual mentions that CA glue might be required to secure these so I wanted to have the best friction possible between the screws and the arms. It felt very secure when I was done screwing them in the arms. Next up will be a part I really enjoy in any build: the turnbuckles.
  9. Hello sir, yes the type S steering is plug and play although you will need shorter turnbuckles. For a standard TT-02 the 32mm turnbuckles will fit fine. Edit: my inbox says it is full... thanks for pointing out that I can no longer receive messages! I will have to do some cleanup.
  10. Not a Ford guy, but that's another amazing masking job @Re-Bugged 😍
  11. Using ball nuts and adjusters prevents any bending moment from being applied to the shock bottom; that's the benefit compared to step screws. That also reduces wear inside the shock. And it makes everything smoother. I use regular adjusters on all my shocks, this way I do not have to buy the entire V part sprue and simply replace the adjuster whenever I feel like there's a bit of wear (which happens often in high dust environment). The added benefit is that they are NOT pre threaded which allows tuning the length of the shock by screwing/unscrewing. Doing that with a regular shock bottom from the V parts sprue causes the bottom to come loose, since it's molded with threads already.
  12. That TA-02 Porsche seems to me like it would match the spirit of Endurance racing by post quite well! I hope you manage to enter 😀
  13. I actually had quite a lot of braking available without upsetting the car (that's the magic of foam tires 😎), but since that track doesn't have a straight I wasn't really generating enough speed to need the brakes. I do use 10% dragging brakes on the ESC and the Formula Tuned motor does have naturally quite a lot of magnetic drag. So I think simply lifting the throttle was enough to hit the right speed by the apex of each corner. When trying a few "hotter" laps I did need to tap the brakes but it was just too demanding for me over more than a lap or two 😅 So much fun.
  14. Last night the stars aligned miraculously. I had pre-installed the wheels on the Group C (they normally live in a ziplock bag inside a sealed tub). I was at the local tennis courts by quarter to 9. I ignored the scowling of two "competitive" middle age men playing tennis for keeps - you know, when they grunt as they hit the ball, like "hhhan!" - on the tennis court next to mine. I laid out the track and then did a 5 min warm up stint to learn the rhythm and check the car's set-up one last time. There was just a tad of under steer but I left the pod screw alone and carried on. The car otherwise felt extremely nice and in particular easy to drive which was the whole point for an endurance racer. The dust was even more present than usual so it still demanded sensible driving, but the car felt totally drivable. Any rear skidding was easily controllable by simply lifting the throttle slightly. It actually felt and looked quite realistic! I'm amazed at how much the Group C has to offer for it's current price (it's often on sale for 135$ in the US). I am pretty sure it's a flop commercially as they are still in stock today. I can't really explain why. I had to adjust my driving to the fact that my focus has to last 28 min 😅 so I ended up driving much slower on average than what I could do on a really fast lap. Also I found that not using the brakes at all and making smooth and wide turns around the makers yielded the best results. I stopped at 14 min for a 2 min pause and found the motor barely warm thanks to the big 40mm fan. Also, tire wear was almost non-existent; so I left the tires alone. On the second half of the race the track had clearly improved and I noticed my own grove of cleaner concrete where the car has removed some of the dust. Again I felt like driving faster but found it too demanding over such a "long" time. So it was a very interesting test of the driver's focus and I would love to try something like a 2h race! That would be even harder to do with my current family life so I'm only dreaming... As far as the battery and motor are concerned, the fan kept the motor lukewarm over that half hour, while I only used 1750 mah total for about 35min driving. I wonder how much of that was used by the fan 😏 So basically the endurance aspect of things was a non event for the car itself. I hope to enter again this month!
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