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Pylon80

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  1. Your outdoor track would be absolutely perfect for it. The pod and bathtub are adjustable and can be set as high as 10mm ride height (which is ridiculously high) while the front frp chassis part starts at 10mm (new tires) and melts down gradually to around 6mm as the tires wear out. In comparison, a standard TC or M chassis outdoor setup is 6mm.
  2. The "can" motors like the TT do make an annoying noise very early on but that's not from the bushings in my experience, that's the brushes rubbing on a dirty and damaged comm.
  3. Mini update, live from the dunny. Roll Damper Part One After running the car in stock form i.e. without the roll dampers I found that the adjustment of the t-bar screw (aka the o-ring squashing screw) has to be a compromise, as usual: too tight and the car under steers (boring!) but too loose and the car becomes unstable and the rear can be knocked loose if you're not really gentle with your steering inputs (annoying!). The roll dampers help in that respect, allowing a somewhat looser setting of the infamous screw for sharper cornering without loosing the rear. The first step was to choose some dampers. I wanted them simple, light and black 😬 so I bought the same ones I used to have on my Roche F1 Evo: These are friction dampers and commonplace in F1 and pan car racing. I use Tamiya friction damper grease in these. You have to wipe them clean very often as they obviously attract dirt but they work extremely well for their simplicity and almost negligible weight. The Group C bathtub has some convenient alternate body posts locations that are not used with the Jag body. These have an hex recess shape which happens to match the Square RC body posts that I found in my stash. I started by cutting them to only keep the bases: Then I sanded them flat and neat: Now, the annoying part is that the hex is oriented in such a way that it's an edge rather than a flat that faces aft. If I am to attach a damper to that hex I must drill a hole right on that edge! So I sanded a very subtle flat and then pointed a hole with the point of my dividers: (look closely, there's a hole there!) Then, holding the hex between two pieces of wood I drilled a hole with my trusty drill press: I found a 2.6mm diameter bit that is a great choice for drilling a hole in plastic that is going to be tapped to M3: The next picture has a worn adjuster and ball nut for fitment purposes only: Next up will be the attachment of the inner part of the dampers to the pod.
  4. If these came in your kit they are simply 26mm Racing Slicks or Racing Radials (the harder compound that comes with all TT-02 kits other than rally).
  5. Yes, they do! There is a grey cardboard box for all the kit parts, and another smaller one for tires, etc. It was a nice surprise but then Horizon could not find a suitable box to ship the Tamiya box in and they shoehorned it in a marginally suitable box which buckled the Tamiya box Not a huge deal as I am not a Mercedes fan but still kind of annoying when your things arrive already damaged.
  6. That is interesting, since the C11 kits you can buy today do come in the old school large box.
  7. @SlideWRX what a gorgeous Dakar truck. I didn't know about this one; MST are definitely a surprising brand and perhaps underrated brand. Dakar trucks are not only one of the few forms of trucks that get me excited but the teal Petronas liveries are my absolute favorite. Jealous!
  8. HI @TurnipJF I considered writing this post but was too afraid of stepping on Postal Racing's toes - I am glad you wrote this! In fact, in an attempt to entertain myself I considered appending some "endurance" driving impressions to my build thread. Here are just some thoughts from a very casual driver: Race Length: With lipo technology already decades old and enabling cars to run well above an hour I think 30min race time would be a nice wink at the old days, when race time had to be limited because the poor electric cars just couldn't manage more than a few minutes out of their 1200mah NiCd. On the Group C - for example - the kit-supplied Sport Tuned motor consumes less than 300mah per 5min of Postal style driving. Bashing aimlessly at full throttle would certainly use more, ditto if the track were just made of long straight and giant sweepers rather than technical 'in-field' kind of layout. That means that a 20$ shorty pack would yield at least an hour of runtime. Without getting into the details, I never received the round lipo I ordered over 2 months ago so I have been using my regular 4600mah shorty; it drops directly into the square portion of the battery compartment! A nice surprise, but it requires undoing 4 screws. Not a huge deal, and thumb nuts are on the way. So I just want to make sure we are not refraining from doing a 30min race length if everybody is on-board with lipo's. Also we could always have that mandatory 2min stop suggested by @skom25, I would say "to be chosen at any time during the 30min race" which would add to the fun. Pit Stops: While we are talking about stops, I was initially going to propose a stop not for battery change (which didn't even occur to me :D) but to rotate tires as that would greatly extend the life and improve the wear pattern of foam tires, while at the same time conveying the spirit of 1:1 pit stops which is super fun. We can make it a fixed mandatory time as well if we want to make things easier and take out the competitive aspect of rushing through pit stops. Either way seems fun. Classes: Perhaps we could start off with a single class for the first round and later on further diversify depending on how many people manage to enter? Track: It all comes down to how much room people have and we should be careful not to have people miss out because they do not have enough space. At the same time, when the 5mx8m of Postal Racing suits the M chassis and AWD retro buggies like a glove cars like the Group C, even with the kit motor, do feel like a lion in a (small) cage on Postal Tracks! I am lucky to have access to full size basketball courses so I have little space limitation to complain about - others can voice their space restrictions. If people are able to go bigger, then a simple solution would be to start with the current month's Postal Track and multiply all coordinates by 1.5, making it fit a 7.5mx12m space. Other Rules: As for the other rules such as "enter as many times as you wish", I actually thought that we already have that with Postal Racing, and it doesn't even work too well for Mr. Tired Father of Three but for some reason I got excited about the idea of preparing the car, doing a few test runs to fine tune the setup, measure current consumption, pick the right track location etc and then as a single "happening" for each month, enter the endurance race once. Then it gives something unusual to look forward to every month etc. We cold also increase race time if everybody is on-board. All the above is just some thinking out loud! I am happy with anything the greater number of merry drivers want to do!
  9. I am the same and actually sold the C11 body that came with the kit. The center bathtub chassis has 3 sets of holes, spaced every 10mm. The C11 and Jag use the forward most holes (280), the 787b uses the middle holes (270) and things like the F40 would use the rearmost holes (260).
  10. One motor will run clockwise and the other counter-clockwise. Which motor (s) did you want to use? Edit: I don't really know the BT-01 so that might not even be the case. Interested to find out though
  11. Are you using a spray bottle with lightly soapy water? In my (limited) experience, applying decals "dry" is nearly impossible. There is no way I can place it where I want the first time around. So I always spray a ton of water, slide it where I want, look at the body from every angle for a few minutes and once I am satisfied that it cannot possible be placed better, I commit by pushing gently on the sticker which squeezes the water out. Then it is on and impossible to remove without stretching and tearing. If applied without tension and over a reasonably flat surface it will stay on for years to come. However, things like headlights or certain trims that must curve around sharp edges are a pain. Applying heat with a hair dryer helps but it's still hit and miss and might lift after a few weeks.
  12. Applying stickers properly takes me an insane amount of time (15h+) but they really do bring the car to life so to speak. The stunning work from @GermanTA03Guy might not have a lot of 'sticker' but there is extensive and rather exceptional work on the lights and window trim etc without which a body is just a blob. I too think that for all the effort it takes the stickers will ultimately lift or perhaps they still won't be perfect which is annoying. But I try to remind myself that these are RC cars, not static models and so they are supposed to look good while you drive them and look more or less approximative when you behold them. My very first Porsche body does not have a single sticker on it, it's heavily damaged from hitting curbs but when it's in motion it doesn't bother me nearly as much... It sure looks like a Porsche. If you are not enjoying putting the stickers on then don't worry about it. Once you step into your RC shop you are the one in charge!
  13. It can be made to ride as high as 10mm so it's really not any different than a touring car in that respect. However the body is rare enough that indeed I wouldn't run it anywhere close to curbs or obstacles!
  14. Thank you Ferruz, I really enjoy documenting my tinkering so that I may have something to look back to. If this thread has entertainment value for my fellow TC members then it's simply awesome 😎
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