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Pylon80

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About Pylon80

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  1. I really like how you managed to make the rear hub "flip flop"/symmetrical. Nicely done again.
  2. And that number seems right around 1/12 pan car front wheel diameter!
  3. It looks nice and it is true that the F103's old school fiberglass parts look a bit scruffy. It begs for redrawing the part in CAD and getting it cut out of proper carbon fiber. And I don't like driver figures either it feels like playing with dolls rather than RC cars! Nothing wrong with an empty cockpit either. @svenb would you happen to know the outside diameter of the front wheels? I like the Tyrrell and this year's re-re is tempting but without a source for replacement wheels it's just a bit ridiculous on Tamiya's part. It's more of a collector's item for the shelf. I am hoping wheels from the new-ish GT12 1/12 pan classes might work...
  4. Then does it really matter? Just paint it lime green. That's PS-8.
  5. Are you talking ride height or down stops? 😐 20mm ride height seems like there would not be a whole lot of drop remaining.
  6. I would recommend keeping the plastic stock ones if you can stand the sight of them since they hold up so well in the gritty stuff the car will be exposed to when running off-road. Universals will not provide much improvement in down travel (none at all in my case actually... I installed universals in the front - Yeah Racing ones). But not to worry, your setup should provide about 19mm of down stop with the kit tires which is plenty to make the car enjoyable. I use 13mm of ride height.
  7. 60mm eye to eye is what I used but I had to use the lower mounting point on the arms which required it's own tricks to make sure the springs and retainers don't interfere with the arms. If you limit the stroke with internal spacers you could use the normal (upper) mounting position. The limiting factor on a TT-02 (once you have trimmed the limiting tabs on the arms and knuckles) is in the drive shafts. But writing this almost requires a spoiler alert! Enjoy the build 😊 Making a rally car with the TT-02 is a huge amount of fun.
  8. Following with interest, which shocks will you be using?
  9. I stumbled upon these and I must say I find it really smart. In this hobby as well as in my other hobbies or at work I appreciate a simple idea that makes something really slick and efficient. I really like the idea of securing 2 body posts in one swift motion and while I don't think I will be paying 7$ of shipping for them (and I certainly don't like the color) I want to source some material to make my own (perhaps some music wire?). Material suggestions welcomed! So far I have been using either 1) nothing or the kit included black clips when the car is on the shelf or 2) some old clips secured to each other by a tiny cable inside a clear tube, crimped on either ends. I bought these in Japan years ago and havent' really seen anyone using them. I have only one set so I take it with me when I take a touring style car out for a run as it makes removing the clips so much faster for setup tweaks or to access the battery etc. They look like these below:
  10. Interesting that only one person suggested looking into tyres. Any RWD car will "randomly" veer off it's path when grip is less than perfect. I observed that first hand on all my RWD chassis from the F1's to the M-06 to the TT conversions. When you mentioned that partial throttle was fine I thought there was probably a grip issue here. I would hold the car off the ground and try going full throttle a second or so (don't unglued you're tires of the rims 😅) and watch the steering servo for random glitches. You'll know immediately if there's something wrong with the ESC and servo. Again looks like a grip issue. These threads usually diverge into "it's the diff" "it's the servo" "it's the tyres" "did you check your bearings" kind of cacophony so I will stop there and not add any more!
  11. Looking good so far! For the wheels I thought immediately of the 5 spoke 2 piece ones 50672. Offset can be adjusted, I think 2 or 4mm or 0 or 4 (I can check if you need). However they might rub on TRF lower arms. They fit on a TA-02 or a TT-02 (non type S) for example. On the XV-02 I'm not sure.
  12. I think you really need to get the batteries back to storage unfortunately. My old B6 was terrible because it would take so long to discharge (no cooling fan...). The new one has a fan and good discharge power. One tip for you if you notice the charger being limited by temperature during discharge (sometime indicated by a T in the display) is to use a separate fan to blow on the charger case, this way you will at least meet the claimed discharge power. Best of luck
  13. Do you know if your charger has a storage function? If not I would suggest getting one that does. Even the most basic B6 has it 👍 My new Hitec uses 3.8v per cell. I'm always impressed how the voltage remains stable for months on end. Back in my helicopter days (2005) the lipos were new, extremely expensive and would puff every winter as we didn't really know how to store them. Now I have one normal pack 6000mah) from 2019 and still good as new and one shorty from 2021 still perfect too. Then my micro 1/27 GLA has a tiny lipo in it and been in storage for months as well. I try to own the absolute minimum number of batteries and take care of them. I charge right before running the car then put the battery back in storage voltage within hours of coming back home. I think it would be a huge waste to not use a storage function in this day and age as the lipos are just not stable (meaning they will puff) when charged or partially charged.
  14. I like that submarine model. An RC conversion would justify working in it... So your could run it. Right?
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