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Pylon80

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About Pylon80

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  1. Qatmix thanks for checking this. My ball nuts come from either a type S carbon sock tower or are the 53640. All brand new stuff. I can’t imagine how the adjusters could be bad, they all come from the same mold I suppose.
  2. Had a go at it (well 4 rounds actually) in the morning cool (37deg 😅). Car handles wonderful in RWD on this tight track but the driver needs to get more consistent! Excuse the beat up body!
  3. I did a bit of compatibility testing to see which ones work best. So far one is so loose it is unusable, some are ok (slight slop) and one is actually binding.
  4. I am in Phoenix, AZ, with a nice 45deg forecast all week long. I will gear the Porsche a bit shorter than usual in hopes of avoiding burning anything! Giving it a go this Thursday Marc
  5. Hey Qatmix yes I did, inserted from the side with the marking. I went in and read the instruction manual of the 420. So it does use the exact same combination of parts that I used but only on the steering link (between the servo saver and the steering bridge namely 54869 mated to 53869. I can't see how this would not have a huge amount of play. And I mean, visible rattle kind of play. You feedback on this would be appreciated! The rest of the 420 uses different ball studs that may measure slightly different. So I measured a few Tamiya ball nuts and ball studs and found some difference: aluminium ball nuts measure around 4.74 (out of the 5mm advertised...) and the steel ball studs (the one the TT-02 Type S uses as the top kingpin) measures right at 4.8. On the other hand, the short adjusters (50797) seem very tight. I use them on the steering turnbuckles and steering link. Finally, my F104 ver.II has yet another combination of adjusters and ball studs and is virtually play free. I suppose it will take some experimenting. The car I am building right now is a TT-02 tinker project that is not using kit parts so I can't just follow the instructions, there are none PS: I also tried the CVA o-ring trick (red o-ring) and it came out way too tight, almost locked up Marc
  6. Thanks for your answer. Tamiya makes these: https://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-dust-cover-for-adjuster-53980-00028003 They are to keep the dust out as you said; the XV-01 comes with them for example. I could try them to see if they help with slop. So...am I the only one who finds it a wee bit strange that Tamiya call their ball nuts 5mm but everyone knows they measure at 4.8mm, then the adjusters are sometimes snug (for example the old short adjusters 54489) sometimes crazy loose like the ones I just tried?
  7. So last night I started making turnbuckles to retrofit my car with the "all new", so TRF grade, "5mm reinforced adjusters 54869", the spiffy ones that are open ended etc. I used brand new coated 5mm balls (53869 etc) while I was at it. Well the connections have virtually no friction, which is wonderful but they also have a ridiculous amount of free play. You can push and pull on the parts with your fingers and feel and hear the ball clicking back and forth inside the adjusters! I used them for camber links so now my camber will measure whichever it wants depending on what the ball connection wants to do that day. I am disappointed in these, does anyone has any tips or advice or perhaps a different experience? Marc
  8. I don't use plugs anymore, motor soldered directly to the ESC and low profile 4mm bullet connectors directly into the battery back (yes, lipo...). https://www.apexrc.com/collections/connectors/products/tq-4mm-low-profile-bullet Only problem is my ESC's have wires custom trimmed to the each chassis and can't really be swapped from car to car.
  9. Hi, since nobody replied I thought I’d chime in. When I too ran out of Tamiya AW grease I was unwilling to pay 10$ for a new 3g tube and I started using bicycle grease from Shimano that I had in my shop and is about a hundred times cheaper ;) For example: https://www.google.com/search?q=shimano+grease&tbm=isch&hl=en-US&prmd=sinv&rlz=1CDGOYI_enUS767US786&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjbitq7u43xAhWYADQIHXn3Cj0QrNwCKAF6BQgBELgC&biw=320&bih=450#imgrc=bZ2-zre6wyGmyM I have used it for lower arms and the such, for about a year now and it appear to be about the right viscosity and perfectly compatible with the plastic used by Tamiya. I have not tried it in the diff as I am using a ball diff.
  10. Tips that might help: - use the low friction balls as mentioned above - get fresh lower arms (buy a new plastic sprue...) - insert the balls with the slot horizontal - try both sides of the arm with light pressure and insert from the easiest side (arms are identical not symmetrical ie there’s no left and right) - do not use any grease (attracts grit and accelerates wear) - there’s a component of “luck” involved unfortunately, due to molding and manufacturing tolerance sometimes one side is looser than the other :(
  11. I would love to see the finished product! The modern F1 wheels with lower profile tires look amazing and come in realistically wide size for something like a Le Mans car.
  12. Gazzalene you are mentioning the width so you are probably after standard (for 1/10) 12mm hex but in different width than the kit hexes? In any case as mentioned above make sure you go with clamp type ones. There are tons of chinese made options all over feebay. Quality can be hit and miss (for example you tighten the little clamp bolt and the hex still slips off the axle...). Tamiya has a few size, perfect quality of course and expensive. Square/Integy have some beautiful ones at a totally unreasonable price in my opinion In terms of width, the limit will be having enough thread remaining for you to tighten you wheel nut. You can then do 2 things: - get low profile flanged nuts which will buy you 1.5mm more or so if I recall correctly - get longer wheel axles (and that, is totally chassis dependent... a bit more info would help). I went through this recently to get proper wheel fitment on a TT-02 Porsche body.
  13. Thanks JF for organizing all of this. Been watching from the bench but this time I will give it a try! I needed to scratch my RWD itch while waiting for the M06 and F104 to be completed so I setup a RWD iteration of my (ever-changing) TT-02 Porsche
  14. Getting the lateral CG is critical for anything other than bashing. Doing it without adding weight i.e. by relocating electronics is really nice when possible. On a TT-02 we can run a shorty pack with the ESC and Rx on the same side as the battery; depending on which servo you use you can get it balanced just right. Hopefully the TT-01 is similar. Moogabib I see you are going the multiple electronic scale route but I thought I would mention that a simpler alternative that has been used forever in 1/10 TC is to use 2 balancing "spikes" and balance the car on them down the centerline. Hudy makes a nice/expensive set but I made one with 2 steel rods, about 50mm long that I ground to a sharp point and press fitted into 2 blocks of wood. I then imprinted 2 small dimples with a punch under the chassis exactly down the center line (the higher end chassis already have little holes for this purpose, like for example a F104 ver.II): one at the front one at the back. I can then balance the car in ready to run condition using that very simple setup. Also I should probably mention that shock "preload" has nothing to do with weight balancing and only achieves a horizontal chassis (not leaning to one side). That still must be done in addition to having the lateral CG centered and it is not a fix for an unbalanced lateral CG. Hope this helps.
  15. That is a lot of interesting info from everyone! Martin I had never even heard of a thread former. I also wanted to mention that I use machine thread a screw is the kingpin; the finer pitch (compared to tapping) allows for a nice "micro adjustment" of the friction, for that perfect no free play & no friction setup. I was also tempted to use grease when forming a hole in hard plastic for the first time with machine screws. Sometimes the screw becomes extremely hot as you thread it in and the plastic starts making a squeaky sound. I guess that is the hot screw method unintentionally.
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