Cynan

Drill slowly reducing heat and also on a spare gear casing so you keep the original. I think there is a video or blog they did explaining why they didn’t it this way somewhere. I’ve had no problems on my runner.

Don’t forget this type too

The MIP diffs come with a drill bit. It works fine. Zero problems when I did mine.

I have the MIP hex set, they’re good but the handles aren’t that friendly to your hands. If I was starting again I’d buy the speed bits and use an alternative handle or perhaps buy Hudy. I use the Tamiya red set for the JIS screws. I also really like Wera and have a few of those. Heard good things about PB Swiss but never tried them.

Here goes… *deep breath* 😂 When you have a thread about stating what you think is unpopular (without repercussion right?) and then others state you’re wrong. (I had expected to read this thread and see what people thought was unpopular, not then see disagreements and arguments against proving the point entirely) I also hate the BigWig. Looks cheap and plastic to me. Yeah they’re all plastic but I dunno… the BigWig just looks and feels (without ever seeing on in person) horrendous.

I think we can or I can’t see anything in the rules saying we can’t… so here it is @ChrisRx718 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16873

Yes you need the STL.

Are we allowed to post links?

I’m sure I’ve seen some already printed on that auction site we all know and love too. The Thingiverse ones work fine. There are sites you can use to ask other people who live near you to print things as well, which is much cheaper than using Shapeways.

Yep. You can use the top chassis and cage form the rere HS and SHS. I believe @Kpowell911 means that a rere HSII will likely use the BH HSII top chassis.

Hi all, does anyone have an STL for a Lunchbox GoPro mount? I've seen one was available at one time on the net but it's since been removed. I've not interested in selling it, just wanted to print one for my own personal use.

Hey. For those that are interested in the differences between the Hotshot II and the Blockhead rere of the Hotshot II I thought I'd compile a list, which would be helpful for those that want to try and convert one to it's original form. As a starting point there is an excellent article about the differences between the HS, SS, HSII and rere HS here: https://tamiyabase.com/articles/46-technical/176-distinguishing-the-hotshot-supershot-and-hotshot-ii Now onto the HSII vs the BH HSII rere: - The original uses a one piece ball cup with integrated shaft, and was held in with C clips where as the reres all use a separate shaft and E clips. The E clips are thicker and to accomodate this the gear casings are slightly different. The original had a three piece thrust bearing, the rere has a singular thrust bearing. The original front gear box uses a brass numper stay. The rere uses aluminium. The original front numper does not have a recycling logo in the centre. The rere does. The original used plastic washers to hold the gear box together. The rere uses metal washers. The original used red parts, and not silver. The rear uprights are different to the HS and SS. HS and SS parts are not interchangable. Super Sabre parts will fit howveer I heard someone say once that the Super Sabre red parts are a different shade of red. I've never had a Super Sabre so I cannot verify this.. but it's something that you may want to look out for. The original wheel triangle mounts are different to the HS and SS. The HS & SHS rere parts in red will work, but they are different. The original red shocks use brass inserts, the rere yellow shocks use ball colars and are of a newer CVA damper design. The original prop shart was of the coat hanger design with corresponding cups. The rere uses a more modern design. All the drive cups on the rere now have urethane bushings inserted. The original had nothing or you could fit your own o ring. The rere body has an extra cut out for the metal plate up top and dimples for the number plate screw holes. The original top chassis and roll cage is different. The original wheels were white, the reres are silver. The original battary retainer is more round, the rere is squarer in design. The original had an MSC, the rere comes with an ESC. Note the wire colours of the original MSC are different to the one supplied in other kits of that era. The rear shock tower and battery plate is the same. The original drive shafts were thinner. All the reres use beefed up versions. Reproduction decals in my experience all have issues and are not perfect and are not 100% accurate. The original came with a silver can motor, with a white or black plastic end bell. I've seen both. The rest I believe is the same. Now depending on how purist you want to be you either will or won't be able to convert one. To get a 100% original car it's going to take a lot of time hunting around and a lot of money and for some of the red parts the best chance you have is to buy a vintage car when wone comes up... sometimes even more than one in order to secure all the correct parts that are in good working order. I'm hoping for a rere of the HSII in it's original form, but if they do release one I'm pretty certain we will still be missing the original gear cassngs, C clips, original drive shafts and dampers. Still we should gain the original body, semi-complete original decals, and barring the dampers, the rest of the red parts so that'll still be pretty good. --Cynan

I had this problem recently too. The spare tips out of stock everywhere.. but then I saw an STL on Thingverse so all was good.

As a kid money was tight and second hand was the only way I could get my hands on a Tamiya, and I count myself fortune it was a HS2. It came with a Futaba Magnum Junior, a spare crystal and a tub of spares. The gentleman who sold it me also gave me a copy of a guide book with the Avante on the front. I still have that now though sadly not the car. Many a night I drooled over that guide book reading it cover to cover, desperately wishing that someday I’d be able to get a Technigold and another Futaba transmitter with more dials - because more meant better right 😂 Something I’d either forgotten or only just noticed but on the back of the guide book it it’s written “Hobbin, Model, Portland St”. Anyhow when I got back into the hobby the choice was clear to me - an Avenue re-release. My first kit build from new.

I got my first Tamiya after seeing another kid with one at school and thinking it was the best thing since sliced bread. Before that I’d only ever seen indoor RC cars. I was luckily enough to get my own second hand which I enjoyed thoroughly and bashed around with a neighbour who also gad a Tamiya. Meanwhile at school a kid in my class learnt I had an RC and quizzed me about it. I knew nothing outside of Tamiya and the stock kit specs. After lots of questions he worked out I had a stock motor and I learnt there were rebuilding modified motors. He seemed very disinterested when he learnt it was stock and that it was Tamiya. I asked him what he had and he said with a smug grin he raced Losi modified. So even bank then I think there were those thinking why would you have a Tamiya. For me it because it was all I knew. We didn’t have a lot of money, never went to a club, didn’t really know they existed at that time either and never had exposure to anything else. Roll on to today and for me Tamiya is very much nostalgia and wanting to impart my cherished memories with the next generation. I love the fact some of you guys get together to share this love and bash and race your Tamiya models. Honestly can’t see Tamiya surviving after our generation unless they restart the racing team. They are expensive for what they are compared to what else is out there and there is no reason to buy one without that nostalgia in my opinion.

Wow lucky. I dropped a spacer a few days ago. Searched around the desk, my clothes and pockets, carpet etc multiple times. Couldn’t find it. Luckily you can still buy them so I ordered a spare. Annoying though. Yesterday I decided to vac the carpet. We have a Dyson handheld so you can see what’s picked up. I rotated the vac slowly and there it was. Then the post arrived with the spare. 🤦‍♂️ In the past I lost a C clip but luckily found that the same night. Was in a room with hard flooring so it was easier to see. I tell you carpet is the worst for hiding parts.

This arrived whilst I was away on Monday but only isn’t had chance to open the box. I know it’s not a Tamiya, but I’m really looking forward to seeing what a modern race car is like compared to Tamiya’s last.

Carry mine by the bumper too. Usually only have one with me at any one time.

I have them in my HS2 shelf queen, which I tested when I restored her. Other than that nope… don’t think you’re legally allowed to run them anymore anyway?

Wondering if anyone from the Holmfirth area attends these events, and if so, anyone willing to car share?

In additional to what @Willy iine has said, some more expensive transmitters let you reduce how much the wheel turns even more. The idea there is that you can get full lock faster. Though of course you’ll lose some ability to fine tune how much steering you want. The amount of travel you have on yours will be fine and is pretty standard.

Like some I store spare parts in the kit boxes. I also have a container storage box for larger parts I use more often and for oils, some tools, electrics etc. However for small bits like screws, washers, clips etc I found that even with smaller container boxes the different parts would ‘jump’ sometimes form one container to another so now for small bits I use storage boxes meant for bracelet beads. They are small sealable containers that themselves are stored in a bigger container for carrying.

When I was at primary school all I knew of RC cars were the typical toy cars you got that all worked on the same frequency and you couldn't race with your mates. Then one day I saw another kid with a Grasshopper zooming across the school playground and from that moment I knew I had to have one. We didn't have much money in our household back then but my mum found a guy selling a Hotshot 2, as his girlfriend at the time had brought him a newer car for his birthday. I don't remember what that was, but it might have been a Mantra Ray. Anyhow the HS2 was enough for me and I loved it. With it came a Tamiya catalogue and I would drool over the Avante. It was not until high school that I learnt of Losi and modified motors and felt like I knew nothing again with a toy car. Still, the HS2 was enough for me. Later on I had a Mardave Cobra where I dipped back into the hobby again for a short time. It's only recently when I've got back Into the hobby and fore filled those childhood dreams of having an Avante and all the other cars I'd dream about that I've tried out a Kyosho and a Schumacher.

I used the Detolf but as said above they won't fit most cars length wise. I didn't want to take the glass sides out so instead I put blocks under them to raise the backend up higher than the front. I've been contenplating getting some U bracket shelfs and mount them to the wall that way.. of course you lose the 'sealed' case then... but the detolfs aren't really sealed anyway.