Cynan

Item 47470 - Top Force Evo 2021 is missing from the list.

If you have the connector connected to the other side (a spare that isn't wired to anything) when you solder it'll help keep the pins straight if the plastic gets too hot.

Just checked. Sorry I don’t. I thought I would have as I have vintage HS2 parts but didn’t realise at the time that the HS2 parts didn’t have this triangle on at all. Sorry.

Great work. Where did you buy the steel pipe from?

I think I’d do what was suggested in the other thread. Crimp and then add solder if you wanted it. However I bet as the solder makes the wire solid that it would make weak point?

I might - will have a look later.

How secure is the battery? Might have to pick one of these chassis kits up if I can find one. Nice work, looks fab!

Receiver, servo and motor for my TF Evo and finally CVAs to upgrade the Lunchbox. Looks like parts are finally coming through !

Built my TF Evo. I’ve decided not to use the window stickers and instead spray the inside using smoke. I think that’ll look better than using the stickers and hey if it looks rubbish can always put the stickers on after ? Got to say I actually like the preprinted body. I don’t really enjoy painting and always worry I’ll mess it up and this allowed me to finish up today rather than waiting for better weather (except for the windows I plan on doing). I do wish Tamiya supplied an unpainted body as well though - so you end up with a nice professionally painted body for the shelf and one to paint as you see fit for running. Perhaps they should sell preprinted shells separately and then the LHS can swap in/out/add depending on customer preference.

Got this, cleaner, thinner and about a gazillion pipettes (cheaper in bulk lol). Now I can continue painting Willy.

I was undecided if I’d build this or not but it doesn’t have blister packaging like I expected so build it is.

On the 1/1 in the garage the leaf springs have rubber pieces that match where the Bruiser manual indicates to use the rubber cement so I used silicone sealant to replicate the effect. They should have just included actual rubber pieces IMO.

Can’t see that this has been posted yet but looks like a new release on the Wild One Off Roader is coming too. Mentioned under the TamTech Grass Hopper post on the TamiyaBlog. 58695 1/10 R/C Wild One Off-Roader Blockhead Motors Livery [unique sticker design]

I use 3M Dual Lock. It’s thick though but it allows me to move things around if I want and as both sides are “hooks” it doesn’t end up getting all messy like normal Velcro. As others have said the main thing is to get both services clean.

I’ve used a nylon lock nut in that part on my HS2 runner. I’ve seen the chassis crack when over tightened and this seemed a better solution to me.

We need a synchro mesh hop up

Nothing fancy today.. just a Sports Tuned to complete my WW2.

You know I never thought about how the drag brake would affect shifting. I shift whilst moving so it’s ok… but shifting stationary is a no go. I just assumed that’s how it was but I can see now that if the wheels were not locked then it would be possible. Hmm.. will have to try will drag brake off

TS28 as per the manual. It’s almost early the same colour as the plastic. Made it hard to tell if I’d covered it properly I would have liked something lighter to be honest but the first build has to be box art! Second shell for running I’ll go for something lighter. Just wondering what to do about the Jerry can now.. why they supply it without a back I’ll never know. Might 3D print al alternative one or try fill it with something..

Got the WW2 build done and took advantage of the nice weather and painted the part assembled shell.

Steel pinion and oil shocks for the WW2.

Replaced the bearings in the WW2 gearbox today. Also cleaned up the burrs where it’d been cut from a parts tree. It was nice to see how much grease they had put on too. I definitely put on too much.

Attached a few bits to the main body on my WW today and glued up some or Willy himself ready for painting.

Bearings!

Perhaps a bit late but I opted for a HW 1080 for mine so I could use the drag brake. If you’re not wanting that option then the 1060 will be fine!