Cynan

Second delivery! Going to try strap this on top the Monster Beetle. Took this photo with my phone oriented in all four directions to get the photo to show up right! I waited for the controls to rotate but for whatever reason I’m doing it wrong haha.

More fun from down under!

Yeah so I clicked on the button by accident and entered the wrong photo And the album has multiple photos in so who knows what's going to happen there. BUT! Know for next time. Good luck all.

I use a 4PV for mine. I set up the analog dial to work as a 3 position switch. If I was going stick then I’d go for the 4VWD.

Build it!

The what now? I’m sorry I really don’t know what you’re taking about.

Well said. Same. Personally I don't like the name as I fall into the nostalgic camp. Even to me it's a silly reason, but it is what it is. I'll still get one and at least they didn't mess with my beloved HS name My heart sadderened when I read this. I noticed in the video they were using a TRF hex driver, yet they no longer sell them? I wonder if they are going to re-release tools as well? Seems odd.. why not just keep them for sale. I hope they release TRF ******s as well. Now those that have them probably won't want that, but I'd personally love to be able to get a TRF503 NIB to build and use, and, again for silly reasons really, a set of blue TRF tools. I really hate the 'collector' in me sometimes.

Hey I'm not balding and I don't have THAT many toys (yet) thank you very much

I was a bit shocked at the lack of ESC and motor as it’s something they have always supplied. But then I got to thinking that this is the first new chassis in a while and these days a lot of people seem to put their own ESC and higher powered motor in anyway. So with a new, modern, chases, this is probably a good call. I’ll now be looking to fit a modern ESC and brushless system for the first time. Quite excited.

I see you’re in West Yorkshire - same. If anything I’d just like a get together for some fun. Not to interested in serious racing but yeah there is nothing that close unless you’re prepared to drive an hour or so.. and being a one car family it isn’t always practical. Wonder how many folks live in a reasonable radius to make something happen ?!

I don’t think this was a technical question, more on what individuals prefer.

Yeah... depends on the kit for me too. Whilst I prefer machine screws, I stick to what the kits are supplied with just because I like my kits built 'stock'. If I was running a kit seriously though, then I would swtich them all.

No motor or ESC included you say? Finally time to get me a brushless and Lipo setup then and see what all you young kids are on about then

If you’re going to buy one let’s not mess about… Tech Angle Electronic Torque screwdriver

Just be gentle and turn until the screw stops.. there’s no reason to keep going until the driver cams out or you strip the head. That said if you really wanted to you can already buy torque drivers and you could set it really low but it’s really unnecessary for RC.

Hop Ups shown on the TamiyaBlog: 22028 TD4 Assembly Universal Shafts ( 2) $29 22029 TD4 Differential Nut and Screw Set $9.50 22030 TD4 Aluminum Servo Stays $17 22031 TD4 Slipper Clutch Set $40 47464 TD4 Titanium Screw Set $59 51674 TD4 C-Parts (Uprights) (2) $8.75 51675 TD4 D-Parts (Suspension Arms) (2) $11

The battery doors are in the wrong position, as the battery sits lengthwise and not across. Perhaps the battery was originally designed with the doors and what you see not a final body design where these “doors” are not required anymore.

I’d be surprised if Tamiya released any kit with JIS now - except for ReRe’s.

I like using the space provided for the switch and operating it as it was intended. I don’t run my cars in the rain or through water. But yeah, obviously if you wanted to keep it waterproof you wouldn’t want to change it. So I either use the kit supplied ESC if it comes with one of if I need something better I tend to get the 1060 and swap the switch. I did buy one 1080 for a Mountain Rider and I did secure the existing switch just under the mounting of where the traditional switch would go, and you can press it just fine with the rubber cover in place. Would have preferred a normal switch but hey ho.. the 1080 seemed the best ESC for the job. But you’re right. The 1080 is much better than the 1060 and changing the switch is perhaps silly but it’s still what I like to do 😂

Yeah I’ve only recently been made aware that JIS existed and then had to wait ages for stock to get a set. Always used PH and PZ bits. Hex or Torq headed screws are my preference. Especially if you’re having to take them in/out all the time to replace a battery. They’re just better. So why not use them - given a similar price point. Use them all the time now for everything, not just in RC.

One less person in the queue 🤣😉

£325 at ModelSport

Out of interest I checked the price of models back in 1998 using the vintage media resources on this site, and it listed a HS2 at £108, a Bigwig at £149 and an Avante at £195. Google days inflation to present day is 80.51%. So in today’s money those kits would cost £195, £269 and £352 respectively. Based on that, £305 isn’t that high really for a new, up to date kit.

The only thing I don’t like about the 1080 I’d the power switch. I swap all the 1060s I have to a traditional Tamiya switch so I can mount them to the chassis as per the instructions. I don’t think you can replace the 1080s switch so easily.

Cheers. Don’t use FB so would have never of found that!