Cynan
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Posts posted by Cynan
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Loving all the different colour schemes!
2 hours ago, joeling said:Well, I am mistaken. Paranoid Perry's body does fit
What’s that in his head? Have I missed a step?
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9 hours ago, rwordenjr said:
do you have to install those 2 exhaust pipes or can you skip them? not sure if it holds something else together
You don’t have to fit them.
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I’ve popped in a 16T pinion with a 5.5T motor. Thought I’d start low and work my way up.
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It’s not the mounts that flex but the chassis where they are screwed too. I’m using the Alu hop up mounts and turning the wheels by hand I can see the servo move.
Other than using custom made mounts (thanks again for the STLs) the other option I guess is to pad the bottom of the servo so it sits flush on the chassis floor.
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4 minutes ago, Howards said:
Interesting servo placement here around 20 minuets in.
Yeah.. I never really thought about this though their are hopes predrilled. I would have had to make the servo and ESC wires shorter though doing it this way
I do like how it’s done away with all the linkage that you have to remove when taking the battery in/out. I wonder why Tamiya didn’t do this layout ?
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8 hours ago, Killajb said:
@Cynan I had the same issues attempting to use dual-lock tape, as I have an identical layout with the receiver placement. Ended up using double-sided tape to clear everything, as well.. I used a shorty lipo in order to route the servo wire in the position advised by the manual. Can remove/install the shorter battery without issue.
**side note** the first time I ran with the shorty lipo, there was a lot of understeer. I ended up adding stick-on weights one-by-one and testing until the car seemed balanced again.
I’ve left the DualLock in but the receiver is now sitting face up. It just fit!
1 hour ago, BloodClod said:.One thing I noted is how severely limited the stock steering setup is with all the steering limiters on the front hubs. I took all the spacers off and currently am running just a screw in there as a limiter. I'm inclined to even remove the screw but I think that would potentially cause problems with the driveshaft popping out.
Yeah I’ve done the same.
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Finished my electric install today. Routed the ESC to receiver wire down and round the steering servo mount, across the bottom of the chassis to the receiver and stuck it down with some tape like you do for the steering receiver.
Popped in a battery and found that the wires just get in the way if they are at the front, so routed them to the back. Will be shortening the ESC battery wire soon.
I also used 3M Dual Lock for the receiver but it’s too thick and the steering catches on the top. I might switch the receiver round to clear it or swap the 3M Dual Lock for tape.
Oh and the steering servo still moves even with the hop up mounts. Those 3D printer ones sound the way to go.
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The SA has these spacers in the hubs between the bearings too.
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Finished wiring up the ESC to the motor in my SA, calibrated the ESC and ran it on the bench. It scared me lol (first brushless set up I’ve done). Can’t wait to run it outside.
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Nice job @Mtbikewv! Making the STLs available?
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Two motor wires to solder and then waiting on parts!
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20 hours ago, Darby Bash said:
Yeah shims are in. It's the weirdest thing. There's not much to that step so really scratching my head. Once the diff is together it's just the bearing and two shims on each side that locate the diff in the housing.
Hi sorry, to clarify I fitted extra shims - part 53588. There is play otherwise. Though I assume you do need some to allow loosening the diff. in situ.
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I only had to remove the two screws and sort of manoeuvre the great cover a certain way, but it does come out. I found there is room for motor tabs in one position so the motor needs some jiggling to get in. Best done before the bottom blade is fitted but it can be done after.
My rear diff did move a bit before the bottom plate went on but now it’s fine. Did you out the shins in?
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For info. purposes, the Tamiya brushless motors fit and Hobbywing V10s fit that I’ve seen so far.
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12 minutes ago, BloodClod said:
Recently finished my build... And what a fun build it was. Unlike typical competition buggies you never really know how it goes together so each step feels like a small reveal.
Everything goes together really well. Some thoughts:
- I had issues with some brushless motors fitting, so choose a suitable motor.
- plastics are nice. I think it will hold up well.
- I think working on this car isn't going to be the easiest thing... For example, I've found it a bit complex just to get the great cover off to adjust the pinion mesh.
- ball diffs are quality!
- battery access isn't that bad. Getting the body clip on the link that goes to the bellcranks is probably the most fiddly part. I used a paint marker to mark the direction of the hole to make it easier.
- shock setup is surprisingly decent out of the box. I think a slightly heavier oil would be nice for the track though.
Sharing some pics of my boring boxart paint...
Nice. Looks really good!
I took the gear cover off and the motor out earlier to solder up the wires and then put it back in. I didn’t find it that tricky? The motor coming out and in just required it to be inserted in a particular angle so the connection tabs did catch.
Which motors did you have trouble fitting?
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Being in the UK I can agree that Hermes (and Yodel!) are the worst. I’m surprised at FedEx though… I though they were supposed to be like the pinnacle in the US?
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11 hours ago, BelknapCrater said:
I’ve heard of this “Hermes.” It sounds like it makes FedEx look like bespoke concierge service. So I could have it a lot worse. In fact, I was at the FedEx hub trying to get them to at least drop my parcel off at a retail store when the delivery confirmation came through. So I raced home to get it before the porch pirates did. Now, working on electrics layout:
Looking at wiring options myself. Need to build more of the front end for me to get it fully figured out. The prop shaft looks like it’ll just kiss the ESC in this location but without the front finished I can’t be sure.
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Just some hop ups I’m missing and realised I need to cut, tin and solder wires for the brushless set up! Which also means I need to buy some connectors and suitable battery. Oh and the servo I bought divest fit.. mount holes are wrong. Argh! Started and now having to stop whilst I wait for parts
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For those wondering if motors with tabs on will fit, yes they will! But looks like you need to solder up before the motor goes in.
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Happy TD4 day!
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29 minutes ago, Busdriver said:
Yes but I only ordered one. Should I get another?
Made that mistake myself! I ordered another. Don’t know if you’ll need it… but I figured it’s be nice to have them match
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25 minutes ago, Badcrumble said:
Hopefully you'll have a dispatch email now
I’ve just got mine! Arrives tomorrow! Yay!
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Nice. I’ve an old shell that I acquired with a bad paint job so I might give this a go to. Looking forward to see yours painted.
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55 minutes ago, Busdriver said:
All we all really need now is a TD4!!!!!!
Better to get the hop ups first though I reckon, then having the kit without. I'd have been so tempted to build it only to take it apart a few weeks after!
The Tamiya Super Avante #58696 Information and Pictures
in General discussions
Posted
Ah good. Was just about to suggest to check the foam.