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About bugster_man

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  1. Hi, thanks. I didn't check / change the sensor cable in-deed. I just used the one, that came with the motor though. The postman just brought another one, I had ordered anyhow, I plugged that in and what should I say: it works. Sometimes life can be easy :-) T
  2. Hi, this is out of curiosity to understand whats going on. No solution needed, just general education for me. I have in most of my cars the standard brushed Mabuchi motor combined to TBLE-02s. Now I bought myself a Hobbywing Xerun V10 G2 17.5 T. If I do the setup at the TBLE correctly (brushless, high-point, reverse, etc.) and connect the brushless motor, the whole combo gets very hot even if the motor isn't turning at all. So after about 30 seconds, the TBLE cooling fins are hot you can't touch them anymore, teh Tamiya connector to the battery is close to melting and the motor also very, very hot. Further the motor doens't turn, except for a timing set to ~60 degrees. And if it turns, it gets hotter even more. If I go back to brusehed mode with the TBLE and standard motor, they just work fine. So I assume the TBLE isn't broken. If I connect the Xerun to an el-cheapo GoolRC ESC (non-sensored), the motor just works fine and stays completely cool. So I assume the motor is ok too. So I assume the individual components work fine, but the TBLE combined with the Xerun simply doesn't work. And now my question is: why is that? I have a hard time to see, what could cause this big heat generation (visible some sort of short cut) but the Xerun is well within the spec of the TBLE. Again, this is just to understand the effect. The TBLEs will have to go anyway and will be replaced by a Xerun ESC Ah, I forgot: I have blue = A, yellow = B, orange = C ESC to Motor connection Thanks guys
  3. Hi, thanks so far. But that is exactly the things that confuse me: it is 2.2" but somewhat not really, so will not fit. What does the 3.0 mean?
  4. Hi folks, I hope you can help me out, as I start to think, I'm too dumb for this. Can anyone guide me to general tire sizes and measurements? I seem to be unable to make the correct measurements and select tyres accordingly. One example: I bought a Blitzer Beetle used which is running Proline Caliber Tyres on stock rims. Rears: https://www.prolineracing.com/tires/caliber-t-2.2-m3-soft-off-road-truck-rear-tires.asp. So as I will need some new tyres soon (I love driving the BB), I was searching for tyres, I like. And just out of curiosity, I measured the rim and tyre. And noew here is what I struggle with: none of my measurements on the car do fit any spec of tyres I find on the web. The calibers for instance: my measurement: outer diameter: 100mm, width: 50 mm from proline webpage specs: outer: 102 mm, width 53 mm One could argue new tyres would have the 102 mm. The rims: my measurement: diameter: 61,5 mm, width 50mm being a 2,2" wheel, the diameter should be 55,8 mm (2,2 inch * 25,4 mm/inch) And now I struggle: the rim says it s 2,2" but effectifely has 61,5 mm. How should I now search for new tyres and find some that fit? Same somewhat applies to my other cars hence I'd like to understand the general concept behind RC car tyres (I have completely understood the concept for 1:1 cars btw) Note: backgroud is, I have gotten 2 sets of rims with the car and recently aquired a 3rd set from a BB chrome edition. Hence the plan is to equip each set with different tyres good for tarmac, off-road, beach usage.
  5. Hi folks, I have it under control and it works now. So thank you all for the valuable tips and even more giving me th emotivation to keep hanging in there. Reason for the strange behavior: all of the above and more. Really. (1) diff seemed to lock up (2) left wheel left ground (table) much earlier than right wheel (3) Yeah Racing studs for the ball head are too long and start scratching the outer drives leading to uneven torque distribution left/right (4) 2 akku packs of adjusting front axle settings for toe-in and camber (5) Steering servo did seemingly have a problem. Installed a Futaba 3010 now (6) fiddling around with the settings on my remote (FS-it4s clone), as it allows me to have softer torque build-up of the motor And while test driving, I did hear a knackering sound from the gearbox internals. Not good. Main gear had one tooth heavily damaged so installed new now. And I fancy I'll follow your advices on installing an aftermarket diff. Because now with all the mods, the performance is simply stunning. Even at full speed, you can turn in and it very easily follows. If only I would be a better driver, I'd imagine this to be really good fun when going fast. @Matthias: sounds like a partner in crime :-) What kind of real-deal VW do you have?
  6. Hi, thank you! I'll definitely try the suggestion of disconnecting the servo and trying to see if both wheels lift the ground at the same time. In any case I gave it some hefty toe-in on the front and that does seem to heavily improve things ! i checked of course first if it runs in a straight line. The trim at the remote is set to 0 and it does run in a straight line. With strong toe-in then things improved. This is definitely much more toe in, than it would have being build according to build instructions, but hey, if it does the trick, then I'm all in for it. In terms of wheel travel being free: yes they do travel free. I had to check everything to make the YEAH Racing axles realy travel free. If you mount that kit accoring to instructions, it will touch in many spots; e.g. ball pins on the front will touch at the body mount bracket so I needed to cut some at th ebracket etc. No it moves completely free with the stop / limit of travel being the dampers.
  7. ok, I took it apart, changed the grease from molybdenum to Tamiya ceramic grease, switched the diff left to right, double and triple checked all components, interchanged the bearings, changed damper oil on the rear to Tamiya 200 (softest I have), changed spings to soft, adjusted the chassis best I could. What should I say: spins to the right. I'm close to speechless. Now I changed spings soft on the left sid, hard on the right side. Still same effect. When I toy around with the trim and make it turn left when it's supposed to go straight, it seems easier to handle and seems to do this right spinning much less. But then again, it's not running in a straight line Looks like there is a reason why this vehicle had been a shelf queen all its life. So eventually will end up as shelf queen on my shelf also.
  8. I can't agree more ! Although I have no experience in M-chassis other than the M06. I'm coming from the real beetles (having a bunch of them) so hence I like the really well designed Tamiya Beetle bodied RC cars, as they look really cool. Therefore I like the M06 with th ebeetle body a lot, as it has, like the real car rear engine and RWD. And as this car had been painted in exactly the same colour like one of my real beetles, being cheap, being in my neighbour village and never been driven, I just had to have it. So here I am with the M06 :-) But compared to my Blitzer Beetle running brushless, the M06 feels like a POS (sorry for the wording). The Blitzer has zero problems with all of that once roughly adjusted
  9. good one ! I'm running the standard diff from the kit but have no idea what grease it runs. I'll give it a shot, as this reminds of some other effect, which isn't critical: if I run the car inside on the wooden floor (no tarmac, no carpet) it also turns right. This means under acceleration it transfers most / all torque to the left rear wheel, under braking more torque goes to the right wheel. Sounds like a diff issue. I'll check. All of that still with the standard motor that comes with the kit. But honestly: I'm not too happy to spend more money on more hop-up options on the diff. If I can't solve it on this chassis, it might be better off buying a real race chassis, create some body fixtures for th beetle body and then run brushless. And then invest in a proper ESC.
  10. Hi, thank you so much. I'll definitly will follow your advice especially going hard front and soft rear to keep weight distribution to a minimum. I'll try, but what puzzles me is, it always turns right. If the problem is the wieght distribution and loosing grip on the rear axle under braking, I would have expected it turns sometimes right sometimes left depending on street surface conditions. Adjustiung the steering is a good proposal too. So far I had it setup completely as the build instructions of the M06 suggested. I'll toy around with it altough I have to admit I'm comparibly new to RC cars and have limited to no experience in making sure the measures are correct. We'll see how that works out
  11. Hi guys, I do have a Tamiya beetle with the M06 chassis. I bought that one used and it had been a shelf-queen all of its life. All my cars do run, so I installed all needed to drive it. But it has one issue since the time I had it and I hope you can enlighten me on a solution: whenever I drive higher speeds and do braking, it makes a hefty right turn and completely turns around by 180 degrees. This makes the car uncontrollable and hence it simply is zero fun driving it. What I have done so far: - bought new tyres to avoid they would have a flat sport from standing on the shelf for years - bought new wheels to avoid they are un-balanced - dis-assemlbed and re-assembled the wohl chassis front and rear and carefully re-assembled everything double and triple checking every measurement - installed a bag of M10 nuts on various positions of the car to pack some weight and see if that creates a counter momentum - installed Tamiya aluminum hop-up dampers. - changed damper oil front soft, hard rear and vice versa - toyed around with spring options (hard / soft) - installed YEAH Racing aluminum long wishbone upgrade Zero change. Whatever I do, I get the same effect. It drives me nuts.
  12. Folks, thank you so much. That is the way forward ! Aluminum base plate is the one, as I then also have the possibility to create a fixture for the body. (or doing the base plate from steel and fix the body with neodym magnets). As I also have to cut the rollcage, I'll get myself a spare part rollcage for cutting. Thank you so much! Edit: and the Scorcher body will be used as second body with different paint scheme for my other Scorcher. I anyhow can't decide which paint scheme I like best, so now I don't have to decide and can have two bodies and run the paint scheme according to my mood.
  13. Hi folks, I have been following this site for quite som while already to get inspirations and today I finally registered, as I need your advice. Yesterday a Sand Scorcher appeared in a local trading site, it was located in the village I live, bad pictures, very small description but the price was a steal. So I snapped it up, a I thought this is the perfect base for some projects to come. I was completely surprised when inspecting the car: never driven, just half finished and has obviously been sitting just on the shelf for many years. I compared it to my 2011 Sand Scorcher and found some minor differences which leads me to think it s a 2nd Gen (Re-Scorcher). Given it is such a beautiful state, I'm not sure I want to chop it up. But again, I'm fairly new to this RC world and would need your opinion on things: leave the Scorcher as is because they don't grow on trees or go ahead with modifying it? What my plan is (or was): I have a Sand Rover body shell sitting waiting to be mounted on a chassis. I never liked the look of the DT-02 chassis and got inspired by some really cool mods in this very forum putting Sand-Rover bodies on Sand Scorcher chassis. I also do have a Blitzer Beetle with brushless, that I used to learn driving so you can clearly see the results of my training classes with a body having cracks, dings and dongs all over the place so I thought about putting the Scorcher body on the Blitzer.
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