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About Fruitfly01

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  • Location
    Barnet, North London
  • Interests
    Current cars:

    58035 Wild Willy LWB 1982 x1 shelfer
    58045 Hornet 1984 x1 runner
    58054 Super Shot 1986 x1 shelfer
    58055 Boomerang 1986 x2 shelfer/runner
    58056 Falcon 1986 x1 shelfer
    58061 Striker 1987 x1 NB
    58066 Super Sabre 1987 x1 project
    58067 Thunder Shot 1987 x1 shelfer
    58070 Midnight Pumpkin 1987 x1 Shelfer
    58071 Sonic Fighter 1988 x1 project
    58075 Terra Scorcher 1988 x2 shelfer/runner
    58076 Vanquish 1988 x1 project
    58081 King Cab 1989 x1 project
    58082 Madcap 1989 x5 runner/shelfer/shelfer/shelfer/donor
    58087 Manta Ray 1990 x1 project
    58096 TA01 chassis 1991 x1 project?
    58116 Dyna Storm 1992 x1 shelfer
    58161 Ta02 Ford F-150 Truck 1995 x1 runner
    58210 Ta03F Subaru Impreza WRC97 1998 x1 project
    58221 Baja Champ TL01B 1998 x1 project
    58245 FF02 Alpha Romeo 156 Racing 1999 x1 runner
    58256 Juggernaut 2 2000 x1 project
    58262 TB01 Raybrig NSX 2000 2000 x1 NB unfinished
    58275 Mad Fighter 2001 x1 runner
    58334 DF02 Rising Storm 2004 x1 NB unfinished
    58370 DF03 Dark Impact 2006 x1 runner
    58404 DB01 Baldre 2008 x1 project
    58489 Avante 2011 NB
    58583 Egress 2013 x2 NIB/NB Runner
    58587 DT03 Neo Fighter 2014 x1 Runner.
    58618 Monster Beetle 2015 x 1 NB

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  1. I ordered a couple of servos from HobbyKing yestersday. One arrived just now - A Blue Bird BMS 621 DMG. I have these fitted to most of my runners and they seem to work well. No failures yet. But they are getting a bit pricey nowadays, so I also ordered a Turnigy of a similar spec but lower price - TGY-4409MD. Unfortunately that's coming from the EU warehouse so I don't expect to see that for a few weeks. I've no experience with Turnigy servos, so I hope it's a good one. 700th post
  2. Counting teeth! I've often come across threads that deal with the Madcap/Astute ball differentials and their differences to those found in the Egress, Avante and Vanquish. I've even chimed in on these threads, but haven't had any exact figures to work on. I've just learned through talking with others that the Madcap diff gear is bigger than the Egress/Avante gear. To that end, I purchased some NIP gear sets - Avante unitised differential gear set and the Egress plastic gear set, as well as the gears from the rereleased cars. I just need to see it for myself and know the numbers. Madcap/Astute Ball diff gear - 31 teeth Egress ball diff gear - 30 teeth Rere egress ball diff gear - 30 teeth Avante geared diff gear - 30 teeth Rere Avante geared diff gear - 30 teeth I could have counted the teeth on the Super Astute geared diff, but it's of a different module anyway with finer teeth, so is a moot point. The next job is to see if it is at all possible to fit a geared diff into a Madcap and make it work, despite the 1 tooth difference. And if it does work, is it possible to fit the re re Egress ball diff and other components to a Madcap/Astute gearbox?
  3. Always go for a kit if you have the choice. It is fun to build them, and it is rewarding when you've completed it. Instant gratification is fine and overbearingly commonplace now, but there's something special about building a kit, watching it come together, and being able to give yourself a pat on the back and say, 'I did that'. Also, you get to learn about the car as you're building it, so should something go wrong - electrics, gearbox, you prang it and break it, you will have an idea of what has gone wrong and will have a bit of knowledge in the bank that will allow you to sort out the little problems you might be faced with. I dare say a lot of ready to run models end up tucked away or discarded because of one tiny little issue that would have been simple to fix if the owner actually knew a little about the car and it's components, and what to do with it in any circumstance. Rome wasn't built in a day, but a Hornet can be.
  4. Look at the DT03 turnbuckle set. It should contain most of what you require. However the Steering rods on that set are very long with 50mm of shaft between the adjusters. The set contains: 2 x 65mm shafts 2 x 38mm shafts 2 x 32mm shafts. The other alternative is to look for the turnbuckles for the Dyna Storm. It's a descendant of the Astute so some of it's generic parts are more of a direct fit. I'm pretty sure I'm using Dyna Storm turnbuckles on my Madcap, although I fitted them a long time ago, so the old memory is a bit fuzzy. Dyna Storm contains: 1 x 32mm 2 x 38mm 2 x 42mm 2 x 50mm
  5. A bit more shimming on the DT03 rear end. This time I removed it from the chassis and removed all the arms, hubs and driveshafts. I rebuilt it using pins and e clips instead of the screw pins and shimmed where I could to remove unwanted movement. It's better, but it's not curable. I think it's as good as it can be, unless I can find another solution.
  6. A used DT01 Mad Fighter body. It's an unusual body moulded in a weird colour, but it was cheap and I've got an idea for a paint job for it.
  7. I have the same thoughts about the build differences, although it still doesn't make sense. Adding more shims to a new diff will only add more pressure to the components and make them wear quicker. That might not be an big issue with the Astute, but I can see the extra weight and driving potential of the King Cab causing premature failures. I'm surprised that no one has shown interest in buying your Madcap or spares. Recently I've seen these cars promote frenzied bidding wars and attain good, even ridiculous prices on Ebay.
  8. There were never many upgrades available for this car. The items Snappy has listed is pretty much complete. A word of note about fitting the CVA dampers, or any dampers, you'll need to use the Sonic Fighter front shock tower to fit dampers up front. It's taller than the Strikers part. The Sonic Fighter came equipped with CVA dampers in the kit , sort of a hopped up version of the Striker. Some say it's even uglier, but I think both cars are fantastic. Enjoy the build.
  9. I found the diff in the Madcap to be tight enough without the use of additional shims. I only added them once I noticed the diff starting to slip, affecting acceleration of the car. I wonder why the assembly instructions for the same diff is different between the Astute and Madcap.
  10. Shimming! Mostly. Every time I pick up and look at one of my cars I find something on them that wobbles just a bit too much for my liking. But, that's Tamiya for you. I don't have the latest and greatest on road TRF machines, so I don't expect 100% precision, zero play and tolerances so tight as to be almost unattainable, but I like like to tinker and improve things if I can. My DT03 was the first to be attacked. There;s a lot of slop in the suspension and anywhere a pin rotates. Shimming works to prevent an A arm or a hub sliding back and forth, but doesn't prevent them wobbling. I tried to fit bushings a la the Dyna Storm and TA03 cars, but the nothing fitted. I also removed a few step screws and replaced them with ball studs on the damper mounts. About time I did that. I added another shim to the Madcap runner. The left rear hub wasn't as tight in it's place as the right one so that needed balancing out. My DT01 also had a good shimmimg and tightening up around the front. I put shims above the knuckles because they travelled a lot inside the hubs. I put a shim at the front of each of the inside pin of the swing arms to stop fore and aft movement. They already have heatshrink fitted to reduce play. Fitted ball studs to the top damper mounts and changed the servo saver to something more conventional. The stock one is a weird design and very loose. Now everything is a lot tighter. I don't expect much from this chassis (it's a DT01 for crying out loud) but hopefully it'll look a little less wobbly and be a bit more stable to drive. My runner Terra Scorcher had a very wobbly front end because of a loose servo saver which caused a lot of wobble, so that got tightened up properly so now it only wobbles as much as it's supposed too.
  11. That's the one. I think mine was white. My friend had the metallic red one that's in the picture above.
  12. It's best to build the diff as shown in the manual as a starting point. If parts BH3 and BH4 are worn on both sides, it's probably best to discard them and get some new ones. If only one side of the rings have a groove worn into them you can flip them over to use the other side. Part BH7 is a super thin shim that you really only need to use if or when the diff starts to slip excessively. I'd say that if you need to use more than one on each side, it's probably time to install new components throughout. For sanding diff plates, I'd use finer grits or wet/dry. Start with an 800 or 1000 grit and go up from there until you're satisfied that the surface you're sanding is as smooth as possible. Sanding on a very flat surface such as a sheet of glass would also help you get good results.
  13. I had a bump and go Lamborghini Miura in the 70's. Not quite what you're on about, but it sprang to memory. One of my first RC's was a Ferrari Testerossa which I used to slide all over the kitchen floor tiles. Just like Crockett and Tubbs used to do.
  14. I got another magazine from the past. I always preferred RRCi over RCMC but I did have a copy of this back in the day. August 1989. This edition had reviews of the Tamiya Mud Blaster, an article on how to soup up the Grasshopper 2, and a full 5 pages dedicated to a Kyosho RTR. Atypically, the reviews in this issue seem a lot less lazy than what I came to expect from RCMC, which is the reason I preferred RRCi. Off Road racing really was off road racing back then - yes, I know I whine on about it. Worcester Model Car Club Typical British summer, and probably the main reason tracks have changed over the years. All part of the fun back then, and dialling a car to the track as it changed throughout the day was how the top guys learned all they know. Speaking of top guys... All together now... Awwww. Such baby faces. Some of the results As you can see, TamiyaClubs favourite driver, Jamie Booth won all three legs driving Schumacher before he signed up with Tamiya. And Craig Drescher, also with Schumacher before going on to drive for Team Associated and Yokomo. The Medway track. And better weather. The track seems a lot more purpose built and permanent compared to Worcester. But no less fun to drive, I'm sure. The winners collecting their trophies. Phil Davies always seemed like the old guy at the tracks. Maybe it's that perma moustache. An ad for Otley Modelsport, who I believe are still going online as Modelsport.co.uk Some of their mouthwatering prices for Tamiya kits And to finish off, the cost of an average motor and bearings.
  15. Built and fitted a pair of UJs to the DB01 Slowly removing a thick layer of paint from a polycarbonate bodyshell.
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