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About Fruitfly01

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  • Birthday 11/08/1974

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  • Location
    Barnet, North London
  • Interests
    Current cars:

    58035 Wild Willy LWB 1982 x1 shelfer
    58045 Hornet 1984 x1 runner
    58054 Super Shot 1986 x1 shelfer
    58055 Boomerang 1986 x2 shelfer/runner
    58056 Falcon 1986 x1 shelfer
    58061 Striker 1987 x1 NB
    58062 Hotshot 2 1987 x1 project
    58066 Super Sabre 1987 x1 project
    58067 Thunder Shot 1987 x1 shelfer
    58070 Midnight Pumpkin 1987 x1 Shelfer
    58071 Sonic Fighter 1988 x1 project
    58075 Terra Scorcher 1988 x2 shelfer/runner
    58076 Vanquish 1988 x1 project
    58081 King Cab 1989 x1 project
    58082 Madcap 1989 x5 runner/shelfer/shelfer/shelfer/donor
    58087 Manta Ray 1990 x1 project
    58096 TA01 chassis 1991 x1 project?
    58116 Dyna Storm 1992 x1 shelfer
    58161 Ta02 Ford F-150 Truck 1995 x1 runner
    58210 Ta03F Subaru Impreza WRC97 1998 x1 project
    58221 Baja Champ TL01B 1998 x1 project
    58245 FF02 Alpha Romeo 156 Racing 1999 x1 runner
    58256 Juggernaut 2 2000 x1 project
    58262 TB01 Raybrig NSX 2000 2000 x1 NB unfinished
    58275 Mad Fighter 2001 x1 runner
    58334 DF02 Rising Storm 2004 x1 NB unfinished
    58370 DF03 Dark Impact 2006 x1 runner
    58404 DB01 Baldre 2008 x1 project
    58489 Avante 2011 NB
    58583 Egress 2013 x2 NIB/NB Runner
    58587 DT03 Neo Fighter 2014 x1 Runner.
    58618 Monster Beetle 2015 x 1 NB

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  1. I've no experience with the cleaning brushes either, although I'm thinking of buying and trying some on my non rebuildable Tamiya motors. The Stock TZ motor is rebuildable and it's quite easy to disassemble, clean and rebuild, as long as you're careful. The trick is to remember where the washers go and to not scratch the stack across the magnets, or break the soft fibre washer. The armature and inner can and endbell can be flushed with motor spray (don't forget to remove the brushes and re-oil the oolite bearings) The commutator can be rubbed down with a pencil eraser, although to remove any heavy scoring it will have to be trued on a lathe. If you want to improve the longevity of the motor a little, you can replace the bronze bearings with ball bearings.
  2. Hello again folks, hope everyone is ok during these hard times. A little help please. I bought this Frog from Ebay the other day, and it wasn't listed with much information so I wasn't sure what I was getting into. It's fairly good condition, overall with one or two small problems. It's an original, as far as I know, since it has hex ended drive shafts, and one those is worn. Anyway, my query is about the dampers. They're a smooth metal cylinder like those found on the Wild One. All pictures of the Frog that I've seen show it with ribbed dampers. Was there ever an earlier edition of the Frog - a MK1 - that had a different damper, or has the previous owner just swapped out the dampers for whatever reason? Any answers appreciated. Thanks
  3. You need to remove the motor adapter/spacer - part D2. This will allow the motor to butt up to the gearbox and mesh the gears correctly. You might also need to use slightly shorter motor mounting screws, a la The Hornet - 27mm instead of 30mm screws found on the Pumpkin. Or just use a couple of 3mm spacers. Be aware of over gearing and over heating issues. Although based on Hornet running gear, the Pumpkin is heavier with larger tires, hence the use of a 10 tooth pinion gear. Using a larger pinion gear may give you a more top end, but it might take a while to get there, whilst putting strain on the motor, possibly causing it to burn out prematurely. It might even cause the ESC to shut down. Good luck with it. Pumpkins are fun cars, but are really not designed to go too fast.
  4. I'm going to do the same thing on my TL01B. I'm going to try the DT03 turnbuckle set 54572 as I think this might have all I need for steering and upper arms.
  5. If you've never had a car from the Thunder Shot family, I say go for it. The Fire Dragon is as close as you'll get to a Terra Scorcher in terms of extra components - four dampers instead of three when compared to the Thunder Shot/Dragon. But if you want a more 'complete' buggy out of the box, I say try to find a Terra Scorcher. I'm surprised the Terra Scorcher has become unavailable so quickly. If the Fire Dragon is rereleased as an exact copy of the original it won't have any bearings, so that will need to be addressed. The Terra Scorcher is fully ballraced out of the box. That was/is a big thing for Tamiya to do back in the eighties, and even today. The Terra Scorcher has front and rear sway bars, whereas the Fire Dragon only has one fitted up front. The other big difference between the Terra Scorcher and the other cars on the chassis is the inclusion of adjustable upper arms on all four corners. To accommodate these, the front and rear hubs (C1 and C3) were also different on the original models, but maybe the same on the rereleases. The Terra Scorcher also has universal joint drive shafts, front and rear on the rerelease. The Fire Dragon had standard dog bone shafts all round, and probably will on the rerelease. Other differences are the obvious cosmetics - body shell and wheel colour.
  6. The Technigold is a 21x1 motor, fully ballraced, with 413g of torque at it's best efficiency and 19,000 rpm The GT Tuned motor is probably the closest equivalent from Tamiya's brushed motor range, also revving to 19,000 rpm. It has more windings - 25x1, so technically slower - but has more torque at 500g and stronger magnets which gives it back it's speed. But the Technigold is a modified motor and is rebuildable with adjustable timing. The GT Tuned is a stock motor which cannot be opened or rebuilt, or tuned up in any way, and it has bronze bushes instead of bearings, but it is of a modern (normal) design. Properly set up and geared, both motors are capable of giving any car a lot more zing up against a car fitted with a silver can and may well be very comparable to each other in certain conditions. The go to page for Tamiya motor info https://www.zaonce.com/stuff/tamiya-motors.shtml
  7. The Thundershot range of buggies are based on quite a capable chassis. Unfortunately released at a time when racers were droppping their Hotshots and Bigwigs in favour of belt driven, fibre glass buggies from other companies. If the racing charts of the day are anything to go by Hotshots and Bigwigs were often making A finals and taking first place. If the Thundershot buggies were released a year sooner, I think they would have been a force to be reckoned with out on track. People often cite the Manta Ray chassis as development of the changes made to the Egress in its racing life. That maybe true, But if you look at the changes made to the Egress, specifically Jamie Booth's car, you can see how many of the unique features of that chassis were replaced with many standard components - a traditional suspension set up with normal wishbones and damper mounting points, as well as a little kick up at the front to help it ride the bumps a bit better. The steering knuckle was also replaced with a Hotshot item, helping to reduce scrub radius and improve steering and ease pressure on the front drive train through its suspension travel. All of these changes made the Egress much more like the Thundershot, which then lead to the development of the Manta Ray. if you look at a Manta Ray and a Thundershot side by side, they are practically identical at first glance. - Transverse motors, shaft driven with bevel gears either end and no slipper clutch, twin bellcrank steering, geared differentials front and rear of the same design internally, traditional double wishbone suspension all round, as well as yellow CVA dampers. If anything, Tamiya scrapped the Egress design altogether, went back to the Thundershot, evolving the chassis with many subtle changes learned in the field, a produced the new plastic fantastic, which became the basis of a new all out racing machine. With a few tweaks, the Terra Scorcher is, or would have been quite the performer on the track, as is evident by what came before it, and what it ultimately became in the Top Force.
  8. This is definately going to be a Vanquish and not a Vanquish rip off on a TT02B chassis?
  9. At least I'll be able to get an affordable chassis for my original - currently in pieces, awaiting restoration.
  10. For a few weeks I've been trying to strip the paint from an old, used, beaten Baja Champ shell. It has been painted in a less than pleasant orange by the previous owner and it needs to go. It's less important now that I have a brand new shell, but still it's an excuse to experiment with paint removal from polycarbonate. What has worked for me on certain paints, is Rustins Surface Cleaner. It seems to work on brushed paints and hasn't damaged any plastic I've applied it to. However it hasn't shifted the orange paint or even made a dent. No product has. Today I got some Tamiya paint remover and thought I'd give it a go. I tried it on an old King Cab shell and it worked. The paint just came away with some gentle rubbing. Excellent. It's time to try it on the Baja Champ shell. Using a cotton bud, I applied the paint remover to the shell and spread it around, expecting to see instant results. Nothing happened. No lifting or peeling. Nothing! That orange must be some sort of super paint to resist various spirits and compounds flung at it. I was stumped so I left the product on to soak. A few hours should do it. Nope! Does the military know about this paint? Despite the colour, I'm sure it will be useful in extreme circumstances - bomb proofing, anti radiation suits, Knight Rider - that sort of thing. When I came back to it i found that some of the paint remover had manged to work its way through the cracks in the body to outside which had become sticky to the touch. As I was prodding away at it, my finger started to turn orange, and small clear areas started to appear on the polycarbonate. It turns out that the previous owner of the car had painted the shell on the outside.
  11. Chances are, after the time and effort I put in to this shell, it will not be a runner - unless I nause it right up! I'll get another body for running. and just keep it basic and usable.
  12. Thanks for the tip. The putty guidelines suggest using a spatula to spread and move the putty where needed and build up thin layers. That didn't quite work out for me. I might use a toothpick for such small areas next time.
  13. A bit more work on the Monster Beetle body. I got some putty in the post today and set about filling in the gap between the beetle's nose and main body. I never have liked the gap and the step down from the body to nose. The putty is really messy stuff and it spread out all over the place. I thought I'd ruined everything before I'd even started. A lot of sanding later with grits from 240 to 800, and the front end is now smooth and one piece. There's still a little bit to be done at the front, gaps to be filled between the fenders and the nose and deciding what to do about the BIG mould lines above the front fenders.
  14. These Gartpots are also available on Amazon for £25, which isn't bad if they're a good battery. I've been tempted to get one or two myself, but I have five other LiPo batteries in the same size hard cases already. I'm still tempted though. Please let us know how you get on with them and perhaps put your findings in this thread. Very interested.
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