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About Fruitfly01

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  • Birthday 11/08/1974

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  • Location
    Barnet, North London. Is there anyone out there?
  • Interests
    Current cars:

    58035 Wild Willy LWB 1982 x1 shelfer
    58041 Frog 1983 x 1 project
    58045 Hornet 1984 x1 runner
    58054 Super Shot 1986 x1 shelfer
    58055 Boomerang 1986 x2 shelfer/runner
    58056 Falcon 1986 x1 shelfer
    58061 Striker 1987 x1 NB
    58062 Hotshot 2 1987 x1 project
    58066 Super Sabre 1987 x1 project
    58067 Thunder Shot 1987 x1 shelfer
    58070 Midnight Pumpkin 1987 x1 Shelfer
    58071 Sonic Fighter 1988 x1 project
    58075 Terra Scorcher 1988 x2 shelfer/runner
    58076 Vanquish 1988 x1 project
    58081 King Cab 1989 x1 project
    58082 Madcap 1989 x5 runner/project/shelfer/shelfer/donor
    58087 Manta Ray 1990 x1 project
    58116 Dyna Storm 1992 x1 shelfer
    58161 Ta02 Ford F-150 Truck 1995 x1 runner
    58210 Ta03F Subaru Impreza WRC97 1998 x1 project
    58221 Baja Champ TL01B 1998 x1 project
    58245 FF02 Alpha Romeo 156 Racing 1999 x1 runner
    58256 Juggernaut 2 2000 x1 project
    58262 TB01 Raybrig NSX 2000 2000 x1 NB unfinished
    58275 Mad Fighter 2001 x1 runner
    58334 DF02 Rising Storm 2004 x1 NB unfinished
    58370 DF03 Dark Impact 2006 x1 runner
    58404 DB01 Baldre 2008 x1 runner
    58489 Avante 2011 NB
    58583 Egress 2013 x2 NIB/Runner
    58587 DT03 Neo Fighter 2014 x1 Runner.
    58618 Monster Beetle 2015 x 1 NB

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  1. Wo WOW! That's excellent information, and straight from the horses mouth, so to speak. I wasn't even the proud owner of hobby grade RC at the time this magazine had it's run. I had a Taiyo Jet Hopper, but I was obsessed with RC cars and used to dream of owning a 'proper' one. I'd still buy the magazines though, and Top Qualifier was one of them. I only had the one copy of one issue, and I guess it got read to death, before ending up in the bin, like so many things from back then. If I only knew then, huh? Thanks for contributing to this thread, and to the forums. If you would be willing to sell one or two mags, I'd be quite interested, especially the copy I originally had, with the 5th scale Nascar.
  2. Hotshot parts, antenna caps and Tamiya synthetic rubber cement. Over thirty years of Tamiya under my belt and I've never seen this stuff or known exactly what it is, despite it being mentioned and recommended in many a Tamiya manual. These tubes were taken from a Road Wizard kit.
  3. The 1060 can take a 12 turn motor, according to it's specs on paper, however you are very over geared for such a powerful motor. The 23t pinion/70t spur as standard on the Madcap is for standard silver can motors the car originally came with. Tamiya's instruction recommend the use of the 77t spur and a 13t or 14t pinion for their Dynatech 02H motor which is a 13 turn motor, revving around 25,000 rpm. I would be inclined to follow Tamiya's recommendation and use their suggested gear ratios. You can always gear up if the motor and ESC remain cool enough. Back in the day, it was often recommended to run milder motors in the Astute and Madcap buggies in order to preserve the drivetrain - specifically the ball differential, which doesn't always hold up to mega powered motors. 17 and 19 turn motors seemed to be the recommendations. A Dynatech 01R at about 22,000 rpm was ideal. A modern Stock RZ/TZ/BZ rev just as high, and have more torque on paper. The ball diff works well, but does require some maintenance and many spares and rebuilds after so many runs. When you notice the diff starting to slip, it's time to rebuild it. The wilder the motor, the quicker the diff will fail and require a service. I've seen a diff melted through, although that was from a King Cab - same gearbox. If you look after it and don't ask it to handle too much power, the diff will work ok, in my experience. Upgrade the internal components to the metal parts used in the Egress, and sold separately as a hop option 53043.
  4. 2 Lipo batteries and DB01 rear Universal joint shafts
  5. Just a heads up, Amazon are striking early with their Black Friday deals. The Gartpot 2S stick pack LiPo battery is currently under £15. These are round packs, similar to Core RC and Yuki, and should fit most vintage Tamiya cars requiring a stick pack. Gartpot Amazon Pete Wylie Rc Video demonstrating battery
  6. My brother bought me one of these lamps for my birthday. It's been very useful. My old peepers aren't the best so it's great for doing fiddly work with small pieces and finding fine cracks in old plastic. And when not being used as a lens, it provides an additional light over the desk.
  7. I did a little more work on my Original Vanquish. Mostly it was just finishing off the rear gear box by fitting a couple of 620 bearings and fitting the infamous G11 part, before attaching the complete assembly to the chassis. But I hit a couple of snags. I've been collecting various parts for this car for a while, and I've been trying to keep it as original as possible. This is a new and original Vanquish chassis. A lucky Ebay find. The rear gearbox assembly didn't fit the chassis. The bottom diff cover wouldn't fit in the hole. I had fitted a rere diff cover and thought this might be the problem, so I reattached the original (broken) part, but still had the same problem. This also explains why the chassis the car came with had cracked from the diff hatch all the way rearwards. The original owner had obviously forced the fitment. Was this a common problem with the original Vanquish? I have a VQS chassis, and there is definitely a difference in the shape of the hole. More space for the diff hatch. The only solution was to gently sand the plastic away until the gearbox could fit. I sanded a small amount at a time and test fitted the gearbox after each sanding. There are a few scratches, but I'll buff these out with a little rubbing compound. Then, disaster. I dropped the gearbox. Of course it landed in just the perfect way and the G11 part broke I was quite annoyed at this, even though I have a spare G parts sprue. I was still gutted at breaking an original part, though. Anyway, the parts now fit and are flush together with no squeezing in or forcing the fitment. the photo shows a work in progress. And after that, I could finally bolt the gearbox to the chassis. I also put the front gearbox on, just as a placeholder fitting. After building an Egress and Avante, it was harder to fit the front Gearbox to the Vanquish chassis, as the chassis wanted to eject the gearbox at every opportunity. How it looks at the moment. Kind of skinny looking without it's arms.
  8. The car seems like a slightly tweaked version of the TD4. The transversely mounted battery explains the side pods on the TD4 chassis. Of course the TD2 has no prop shaft or front gearbox, but still uses 4WD components at the front end, including caster blocks and live axles. A new 2WD "wide" front Star Dish wheel has been designed, using hex hubs, fitted with the last iteration of ribbed tire. If I'm right, the new Star Dish front wheel is a true 2.2" wheel and can be fitted with DB01/DF03 front mini pin tires or dual block tires, and others from other manufacturers. Edit: As an after thought, was any hoping to see a true 2.2" version of the lightweight wheel? 2nd edit: I never expected a TD2 as Tamiya's next 2WD chassis, but I was waiting for Tamiya to release a mid engine 2WD buggy of sorts at some time. I was expecting something more like a TT02B, sans prop and front gearbox, or a more traditional 2WD buggy with a reversed gearbox and transverse motor which is probably what the TD2 is closest to in design. - a mid engine 4WD, sans prop and front gearbox.
  9. Some running footage here, and a look under the hood. Start at 51.34
  10. I'm sure the new model will outperform the old one in many ways. I saw in the video how the original sagged and dug it's rear in under power. The new Astute certainly seemed to corner very well, even with those ribbed front tires. Being mid engine, with the bulk of it's weight directly over the chassis, it will probably be better balanced with far fewer extreme driving characteristics found in 2WD models with their motors slung out beyond the rear wheels.
  11. I quite liked the video, although I'm anxious to see under the bodyshell. It is nice to see the old Astute running too, something I don't see much of. It was hard to tell, but it looked more like a Super Astute dressed up to look like the original buggy. Still good though. I'm not sure how I feel about the styling of the new car. The bubble cockpit reminds of WWII aircraft and the fenders do nothing for me, on this or the new Avante. I'm glad they kept the original paint scheme this time, instead of getting loud and lairy with the dayglo colours. It could be finished off with some yellow CVA dampers and a yellow AWESOME! sticker on the wing. Maybe it''ll be an option in the kit. As for the name, I think Astute 2021 is alluded to in the video.
  12. I've no experience with the cleaning brushes either, although I'm thinking of buying and trying some on my non rebuildable Tamiya motors. The Stock TZ motor is rebuildable and it's quite easy to disassemble, clean and rebuild, as long as you're careful. The trick is to remember where the washers go and to not scratch the stack across the magnets, or break the soft fibre washer. The armature and inner can and endbell can be flushed with motor spray (don't forget to remove the brushes and re-oil the oolite bearings) The commutator can be rubbed down with a pencil eraser, although to remove any heavy scoring it will have to be trued on a lathe. If you want to improve the longevity of the motor a little, you can replace the bronze bearings with ball bearings.
  13. Hello again folks, hope everyone is ok during these hard times. A little help please. I bought this Frog from Ebay the other day, and it wasn't listed with much information so I wasn't sure what I was getting into. It's fairly good condition, overall with one or two small problems. It's an original, as far as I know, since it has hex ended drive shafts, and one those is worn. Anyway, my query is about the dampers. They're a smooth metal cylinder like those found on the Wild One. All pictures of the Frog that I've seen show it with ribbed dampers. Was there ever an earlier edition of the Frog - a MK1 - that had a different damper, or has the previous owner just swapped out the dampers for whatever reason? Any answers appreciated. Thanks
  14. You need to remove the motor adapter/spacer - part D2. This will allow the motor to butt up to the gearbox and mesh the gears correctly. You might also need to use slightly shorter motor mounting screws, a la The Hornet - 27mm instead of 30mm screws found on the Pumpkin. Or just use a couple of 3mm spacers. Be aware of over gearing and over heating issues. Although based on Hornet running gear, the Pumpkin is heavier with larger tires, hence the use of a 10 tooth pinion gear. Using a larger pinion gear may give you a more top end, but it might take a while to get there, whilst putting strain on the motor, possibly causing it to burn out prematurely. It might even cause the ESC to shut down. Good luck with it. Pumpkins are fun cars, but are really not designed to go too fast.
  15. I'm going to do the same thing on my TL01B. I'm going to try the DT03 turnbuckle set 54572 as I think this might have all I need for steering and upper arms.
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