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About Fruitfly01

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  • Birthday 11/08/1974

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  • Location
    Barnet, North London
  • Interests
    Current cars:

    58035 Wild Willy LWB 1982 x1 shelfer
    58045 Hornet 1984 x1 runner
    58054 Super Shot 1986 x1 shelfer
    58055 Boomerang 1986 x2 shelfer/runner
    58056 Falcon 1986 x1 shelfer
    58061 Striker 1987 x1 NB
    58066 Super Sabre 1987 x1 project
    58067 Thunder Shot 1987 x1 shelfer
    58070 Midnight Pumpkin 1987 x1 Shelfer
    58071 Sonic Fighter 1988 x1 project
    58075 Terra Scorcher 1988 x2 shelfer/runner
    58076 Vanquish 1988 x1 project
    58081 King Cab 1989 x1 project
    58082 Madcap 1989 x5 runner/shelfer/shelfer/shelfer/donor
    58087 Manta Ray 1990 x1 project
    58096 TA01 chassis 1991 x1 project?
    58116 Dyna Storm 1992 x1 shelfer
    58161 Ta02 Ford F-150 Truck 1995 x1 runner
    58210 Ta03F Subaru Impreza WRC97 1998 x1 runner
    58221 Baja Champ TL01B 1998 x1 project
    58245 FF02 Alpha Romeo 156 Racing 1999 x1 runner
    58256 Juggernaut 2 2000 x1 project
    58262 TB01 Raybrig NSX 2000 2000 x1 NB unfinished
    58275 Mad Fighter 2001 x1 runner
    58334 DF02 Rising Storm 2004 x1 NB unfinished
    58370 DF03 Dark Impact 2006 x1 runner
    58404 DB01 Baldre 2008 x1 project
    58583 Egress 2013 2013 x2 NIB/NB Runner
    58587 DT03 Neo Fighter 2014 x1 Runner.

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. There's a new LiPo battery available from GForce. No word on availability outside of Japan, but the design might be adopted by other companies in the future. http://www.gforce-hobby.jp/products/GFG015.html https://www.redrc.net/2020/01/gforce-classic-pack-7-4v-2100mah-lipo-battery/
  2. I might do that for my runner vintage Terra Scorcher, although if sitting on a shelf forever can't prevent A5 from disintegrating, I'm not entirely convinced that an E clip will save the day.
  3. Dare we hope that Tamiya have fixed or improved known weak spots, such as A5? I have an original Thundershot that has never been run and has sat on a shelf forever. The A5 part still broke. It literally grew old and then died. It just broke apart without provocation. I've had more stable girlfriends.
  4. It was more of a prototype TRF machine for the 1992/93 season and wasn't released commercially. It used an MDC slipper, or something very similar to that used in a Dyna Storm. It was quite a formulaic design, in order to keep up with the Joneses, and almost looks like a Kyosho Lazer under the shell. That makes sense, since it shared its hereditary with the Dyna Storm, which had many similarities to the Kyosho Triumph. I believe Ellis Stafford, among few others, drove the car for that season. In depth build thread by @pUs
  5. Urethane damper bushings and a 37t ball diff pulley for a DB01 that I'm rebuilding and a sprue of E parts for a Manta Ray that is also getting a new lease of life, slowly but surely.
  6. My Boomerang back windows are clear with a black roll bar.
  7. I rebuilt the rear differential in my DF03, using the all metal diff housings that are normally found on the front diff only. Hopefully it's not too loose although it feels nice in the hand. I also started work on a DB01 chassis that I've had kicking around in pieces since I bought it years ago from Ebay. This is a totally different build experience for me - race proven, belt driven, traditional layout, not very Tamiya at all. All I've done is stripped, cleaned and rebuilt one diff so far. I started the other one but thin strips of material came away from the pulley, like layers of cheese strings. I figure I need a new pulley. Looking on Ebay there's a ball diff pulley (53988) and a one way pulley (54023) . They look the same to me, but what do I know? Is there a difference between the two? Actually, I think I've just spotted it! The hole in the middle, right?
  8. Tamiyabase.com have an article about the Dynastorm differences and the 3 variants of the pink motor https://tamiyabase.com/articles/52-things-to-know/218-the-dyna-storm
  9. There were some earlier models which, as mentioned already by Gizard, did not operate on FHSS. It might have been DSSS. These earlier models had grey receivers out of the box, whereas the updated FHSS models had blue ones. Then the micro receivers appeared, and these were grey, but operated on the FHSS signal.
  10. The type of transmitter doesn't matter. The old Etronix Pulse EX3GPro was available as both stick and wheel type transmitters and used the same Rx as Tamco and Core RC. They were all the same on the inside, regardless of outward appearance. It was a good time, if you were out for a cheap, but reliable and versatile radio system. What I need to know is if anyone truly knows if Etronix have replaced the ET1151 with either the ET1152 or ET1153 and of their compatibility with other radios. I'm hoping someone knows and can help, before curiosity gets the better of me and I take a chance on buying one. Thanks
  11. I have a Core RC Code Tx CR151 and have the same issue as others, now that Etronix have the rights to this particular piece of technology. Etronix have two identical looking Rx available; the ET1152 and ET1153. It appears that the ET1151 is no longer available. Does anyone know if either of these Rx are compatible with the Core Code Tx? I still have five available slots and I would like to fill them before compatible Rx become unavailable forever. Many thanks.
  12. +1 for he Hobbywing 1060. It's probably the most popular brushed ESC on the forum. According to it's specs it's rated at 60 amps, can handle down to 12 turns or upto 30,000 rpm motors on a 2 cell LiPo. It'll take a 3 cell LiPo too, but with less powerful motors. There's also it's big brother; the 1080. It's mostly aimed at the crawler market, but is rated at 80 amps, has adjustable BEC for different servos, and comes with a programming card, so is very adjustable.
  13. The Bear Hawk and Madcap hubs are different. Speaking from experience, I ran BH hubs on a Madcap with hop up UJ drive shafts. Imagine my surprise when one of the driveshafts popped out of the diff joint under operation. On closer inspection, the driveshaft travelled through the bearings in the hub far too much when compared to the Madcap items. This allowed the drive shaft to move away from the diff joint when running. Since then, I only ever use genuine Madcap parts or the hubs from the Super Astute/Dynastorm. As for the diff being a different size; This is in regards to the original Egress ball diff gear being one tooth larger than the Astute/Madcap item. At the time some people were trying to adapt a ball differential to the original TTC gearbox, with limited success, possibly using the counter gear from the Manta ray one way gear set. Until now, as far as I can tell, no one has tried to put a geared diff into an original Astute/Madcap transmission. Why there seems to be a different tooth count between Egress ball diff and Avante gear diff, i have no idea.
  14. Proper off road dirt track. I don't like all this astro turf and carpet, etc. People always used to complain about racing on grass or dirt because the track would change through the day and the cars would require constant tweaking to keep up. To me, that is part of off road racing, with the skill being in setting up a car properly and driving it to the best of your ability on a track that poses a challenge. Now off road has become more like Formula 1. Practice, tweak, set, forget, then just drive. At least that's what it seems like. just seems watered down.
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