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Wooster

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About Wooster

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  1. Has anyone used an Absima CR2S controller (2000001HS) with an Etronix Pulse receiver (ET1060)? Theoretically this should work as the Absima receiver is identical to the Etronix receiver - other than the sticker - and both are Flysky radios rebranded...
  2. Hi all. I’m going to put a Super Stock TZ motor in my Re Re Blitzer Beetle (thinking it’ll be slightly more torquey than the RZ and basically the same as the BZ - less a tenner for a dust sponge!). I’ve got an Mtroniks autosport 20 ESC in there and will be sticking with a Nimh battery for now. My question is - will the stock 13 tooth pinion be ok? Would it be wise to get a steel one? I don’t think you can fit a pinion with less than 13t on the Blitzer but, if I can, should I? Also - I heard you can swap out the bushings in the motor for bearings. Is this worth doing and, if so - any ideas what size and where you can get said bearings? Thanks in advance 🙂
  3. Thanks for the feedback @DeadMeat666 - I’ll put the glue away 😀
  4. Hi all. I’m replacing the plastic wheel hexes in my Blitzer with the Tamiya metal ones. The plastic ones were a very snug fit whereas the metal ones - although definitely the right size - fall out if I tip the wheel. Is it worth glueing the metal hexes in or will the - threadlocked - wheel nuts hold everything together? Downsides of glueing seem to me to be having to buy new hexes if I need to replace the wheels and the possibility of getting glue where it’s not wanted. Downside of not glueing seems to be the possibility of losing the hex if the wheel does comes off...
  5. Rather than shortening the pivot pins, I just unscrewed them a bit - until they are flush with the arms. No Ill effects so far (apart from needing to clean out the dirt that collects under the screw heads from time to time) Regarding the horn. I had the same problem because the screw had threaded. A longer screw soon fixed it. Hope this helps 😊
  6. I glued my front axles back in to the uprights with Araldite and they have stayed in there ever since. I think 2 part epoxy resin is a bit more ‘rubbery’ than superglue/ loctite so can absorb impacts better. My problem is the rear dog bone axles keep popping out. Would be very interested to know if anyone has got a fix for this....
  7. @Collin - meant to post this here a while ago. Here’s what those measurements were for. Thank you! Thanks to @mhbmxr for the nose cone inspiration
  8. Thought you guys might like to see the latest support vehicle to join Team Frog! Always there to help when that rear drive shaft pops out - again! P.S - thanks @Grotty Otty and @wolfdogstinkus for the toe in tips. I adjusted after this pic was taken and the wheelie steer is better (especially on smooth surfaces)
  9. Thanks ever so much Collin! I’m ordering the decals now. Will post a picture of the finished product when it’s all done 😀
  10. I’ve fitted the upper arm connectors but I’m still not able to steer whilst popping a wheelie! I suspect it’s because I need to reduce the toe settings as mentioned above but - as a newbie - I’m not really sure what this means! I’ve got the tie rods set up as detailed in the hop up instructions - 4mm gap front and 2.2mm rear. Should I try narrowing or widening the gap? The tie rods are a pain to remove so don’t want to mess with them too much
  11. Hi Blitzer Beetle Owners! Could you do me a favour and tell me the size of square A (so roughly the length of the Contagious sticker square) and the size of square B? I’m getting some custom stickers made and my shell hasn’t arrived yet! I want to get the ball rolling so, hopefully, everything arrives at the same time and I can get on with my latest ‘great idea’. You know what it’s like 😀
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