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Wooster

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  1. Thanks all. It’s definitely a dodgy ESC. Have now installed a Hobbywing 1060 and the Lunchbox’s rebellious streak has been tamed!
  2. Has anyone experienced an ESC unexpectedly switching between forward and reverse? I’ve got an MTroniks Autosport 20 turn ESC in my Lunchbox (using Absima radio gear) and one minute it’s driving along fine, the next, if I ease off the trigger, it flies off full pelt. The only way to stop it is to hold down the trigger! It’s like I’ve switched the Throttle switch on the controller from Normal to Reverse. I have to switch off the LB (whilst holding down the controller trigger so as not to get snarled up in the wheels), then the controller. I then switch the controller back on (wait a few seconds like I normally do) and then the LB. I then usually have to switch the throttle switch on the controller to the opposite setting to get the wheels spinning in the right direction and I’m good to go. Until it happens again... I don’t drive the LB very far away from me (for fear of it going awol) so I don’t think it’s losing signal from being out of range. Is it simply a faulty ESC?
  3. So I’ve got my Schumacher Vee 4s and some (soft) foam inserts to go in them. I’m new to the foam thing so I’ve got a couple of newbie questions you may be able to answer: Would you recommend trimming the inserts to round them off a bit? Is there any point glueing the inserts to the inside of the tyres before glueing the tyres to the wheel rims? Thanks in advance
  4. Great - thanks Wooders28 and Busdriver - Schumacher V4s it is
  5. Hi Blitzer owners. I’m wanting replacement rear tyres for my Blitzer Beetle. With a Super Stock motor in there i have to go easy on the acceleration or it will spin out. The Super Gripper tyres look cool but soon stop living up to their name. Can anyone suggest some tyres with bigger tread that will fit the Blitzer rear wheels?
  6. Thank you Superluminal! I’ve recently added an RZ to my collection (lined up to go in a Hotshot ReRe) so I will get tinkering with that one too! Thanks for the link to the thread - that Tamiya Legends vid was my inspiration to start pulling my motors to bits! I’m not sure if the bearings will make much difference but I’m of the mind - if you can swap out the bushings, why wouldn’t you? Looking forward to feeling warm and happy inside, if nothing else! 😀
  7. Thanks @Fruitfly01 - I can report back the cleaning brushes do actually work- you just need a freshly charged battery to use them. I think the extra resistance they cause is too much for anything less. I don’t think you’d be able to use them on none re-buildable motors though as you have to have access to one of the brushes to replace it with a cleaning brush. Re: those washers. Do you know if the brass washer goes on top of the fibre washer, then the other (aluminium?) one - or is it the other way round? Not sure how much difference it would make - and the instructions don’t make a point of saying which is which in the exploded diagram - but I would like to know I’m rebuilding the motor correctly. Finally - do you know what size bearings I would need to replace the bronze bushings? Not really sure what the best tool for removing and replacing them would be either.. You can see why Brushless motors are so popular now - just plug em in and go! A lot of fun can be had in the tinkering about with brushed motors though
  8. Anyone? It’s really weird - I haven’t found anyone with experience of using these things but the instructions that come with the SuperStock motor state that they are the recommended way of cleaning the commutator! I picked some up on eBay for a few quid - so no biggy - but just wanted to see how they worked :/
  9. Bitl late to the party - but here’s mine
  10. Hi all! I’m having trouble using a Commutator Cleaning brush (part 53486) on my Super Stock TZ motor (53696). I have tried replacing either the +ve or -ve brush with either of the 2 cleaning brushes in the pack - but when I connect up the motor (having removed it from the chassis and taken off the spur gear), it won’t rotate. I just get that high pitched electrical noise you get when there’s something wrong. The instructions tell you to run the motor for 2 or 3 mins at full speed. When I put the original brush back in, the motor works just fine. I know the cleaning brushes and motor are supposed to be compatible. Am I missing something obvious?
  11. Has anyone used an Absima CR2S controller (2000001HS) with an Etronix Pulse receiver (ET1060)? Theoretically this should work as the Absima receiver is identical to the Etronix receiver - other than the sticker - and both are Flysky radios rebranded...
  12. Hi all. I’m going to put a Super Stock TZ motor in my Re Re Blitzer Beetle (thinking it’ll be slightly more torquey than the RZ and basically the same as the BZ - less a tenner for a dust sponge!). I’ve got an Mtroniks autosport 20 ESC in there and will be sticking with a Nimh battery for now. My question is - will the stock 13 tooth pinion be ok? Would it be wise to get a steel one? I don’t think you can fit a pinion with less than 13t on the Blitzer but, if I can, should I? Also - I heard you can swap out the bushings in the motor for bearings. Is this worth doing and, if so - any ideas what size and where you can get said bearings? Thanks in advance 🙂
  13. Thanks for the feedback @DeadMeat666 - I’ll put the glue away 😀
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