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About EvilSpike

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  • Birthday 09/27/1978

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  • Location
    Truro, UK
  • Interests
    Motorbikes & surfing

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  1. Correctamundo! The 2020 Terra Scorcher does not have a slipper clutch or ball diffs. My guess is that you've tightened the grub screw up but not on the flat of the motor shaft. When you take the aluminium gear off the motor you should see the shaft has a flat part and a rounded part, the grub screw should be pushing against the flat part. I'd suggest thread-locking the grub screw in place too or else you'll be tigtening it up again soon. If it's not that then I suspect it'll be you've mounted the motor in the wrong pair of holes on the aluminium motor mount and the motor gear and gearbox gear are only just meshing by the tiniest fraction. Check which holes it should be mounted in. Good luck!
  2. I haven't but I will do, @TurnipJF you Sir are a genius! The car is currently in 2WD mode and on the original wheels, but should I run it like that, or put the driveshaft back in and put it back on the tarmac tyres? I'll certainly get more laps in if it's not trying to swap ends every time I hit the power. Hmmm... Yesterday when it was dry I decided to put the original tyres on it because every time I went over the grass half of where I run it would often spin, the tarmac tyres obviously being a bit useless on damp, longish grass. Whilst putting the original wheels and tyres on was much fun, and I was getting reasonably competent at holding it straight when oversteering, the twenty minutes I got out of the battery was enough to crucify the spikes on the rear tyre. Fun though @NicadrausI had a few beers last night and bought those shocks. I'm not sure why to be honest as they're too long for the car, although my CVA's do leek oil a wee bit and if the new ones sit in the middle of their travel when at rest it's not the end of the world. I could always cut down the centre shaft and put another thread on if needs be. If they don't work is either a waste of £14 or I'll have to find something to put them on.
  3. Thanks for the replies! Ah, I wondered if it was just me but I guess not. It seemed to overheat less when I had the ESC mounted vertically in the middle bulkhead, I'll put it back there next time I open it up for the servo arm. I am still waiting for my friend to paint the drivers head, he's astoundingly good with the airbrushes, not so great at remembering to get around to unimportant stuff... That's exactly what I found too, knock off 25% throttle, give it a quarter of a second then turn and it's really compliant. I use the CVA's it came with and have the largest preload spacers on the rear shocks, the thinnest in the front and it's lovely and direct. I'd love to find somewhere to race it one day, I'm between Truro and Falmouth and the only club near me races GT12's indoors during the winter or big things like Associated B6.1's over jumps that would kill my car. Ah well, it's fun here anyway.
  4. I'm 99% certain I've got the correct steering parts to fit the MG996R Servo that I've got in there. The inner plate slides on with little resistance but has no rotational slop. The slop comes from the middle C piece. As a halfway measure I could put a small tie wrap around the part to reduce that amount it can spread. We'll see on how much time I get in the next few days and how long it takes for the new arms to arrive. As a random experiment today, because the car mainly runs on tarmac out the front of the house and I'm semi housebound a the moment (two fractures in the scapula and bruised hip due to a mountain bike crash) I decided to take the centre propshaft out and see what it was like in RWD. I'm hesitant to report it was actually quite a lot of fun! It's on road wheels at the mo, and so long as you're gentle with your inputs even at full speed it's stable, will understeer and then gently oversteer and it's often catchable too. Over the cut grass you have to knock off the power a bit or else it'll swap ends, and when coming back onto the tarmac it'll try doing it too. So yeah, I enjoyed that! Another benefit it had was that I was using full throttle less, I had to build up to that, and so I had to wait less time for the ESC to cool down. I usually have to pause the fun to go and make a cup of tea once or twice as the ESC overheats and the car shuts off. When it did overheat this time I removed the inner dust-cover/driver and drove around until the battery ran flat. In 4WD it just understeers everywhere and as soon as you reduce the throttle it just points where you want it to; power to the front wheels can get you out of trouble every time. In 2WD it's much more of a challenge when just bashing about on your own. I won't leave it like this, but it is fun! When that new servo arm arrives I'll redo the electrics and try and put the ESC further aft in the chassis then cut a small vent in the dust-cover to give it some airflow. I might try and use some filter material to stop too much dirt getting in. I'm only running a Sport Tuned motor and the TBLE-02s with a 7.2v NiCad . Right now the ESC is mounted on the servo as directed to in the instruction, but I have had it mounted further aft on the bulkhead before. When I take the R-clip off the main body I can feel the heat coming out of the cooling fins sometimes, there's no airflow up there at all really.
  5. Thing is, it's an almost brand new car, I can't really have used it for more than a couple of hours all up since buying it in May? It's never been raced, just taken out about a dozen times either in front of the house where we live now, the carpark of the flat we were temporarily in over lockdown whilst waiting to move in here and twice to the old astroturf pitch in town. It's not been jumped at a skate or bmx track and hasn't really had any cartwheeling accidents. I can certainly understand why you'd want a weak or sacrificial link between the wheels and servo, but the Tamiya one seems for too flexible for the purpose. I'll run with the alu arm when they arrive and if I find I trash a servo in short order then I'll go back to the plastic, three piece setup and just accept that it'll have some play in it.
  6. Thank you very much for your advice sir After taking it for a spin up and down the drive this morning in the damp (big skids on the wet tarmac!) I decided I had better clean and dry it off then change the tie rod lengths to Mr 4fun's suggested lengths. As soon as I started drying the chassis I could see what was obviously wrong, the steering horn had come a bit lose from the servo. Yeah, that'll do it... So I removed the bumper, popped the steering arm off the servo connection rod then out came the ESC and Servo. I tightened the servo bolt up as much as I could with a dab of threadlock, but even still there was some rotational play between the servo and the output arm in the three bits of Tamiya plastic. No matter how stiff the linkages are and how well the rest of the chassis is adjusted, I'll always have a five or ten degrees of steering slop when using that three part steering horn. I could wedge a bit of plastic into the inner cup, but instead I had a nose on fleabay and found a couple of Chinese vendors offering alu steering arms for relatively pennies. I know they'll take between a week and two months to arrive, but for less than two quid each I thought they'd be worth a punt. And Hopefully my 2.2" tyres will turn up in the next couple of days and I can mount them to the pepperpots.
  7. I've got some new 2.2" wheels and tyres for it, I've gone for JC Racing Pepperpots and schumacher mini spike 2's with inserts like you linked to in the other thread. Essentially from your measurements (thank you very much for those), you run the TS with a lot more toe out than the manual suggests. Have you played with the camber by altering the top arm lengths at all?
  8. Would you mind me asking what length you set them to please? I'd like it to be much less skittish than it is now. I've read your thread about the Vanquish/Avante/Egress and had seen that you'd said before how stable your daughters TS is.
  9. It was the rereleased Terra Scorcher during lockdown that got me interested in RC again after almost thirty years of them not being on my radar. I had a Super Sabre QD when I was about ten and would love for Tamiya to rerelease one of those. It seems strange that they are rereleasing a kit that they've already put to market in relatively recent times, I guess it's very cost efficient to do so as all the injection dies have been machined, but it's a shame they don't mix it up a bit more, I'd guess 90% of the components are shared.
  10. Well the new motor certainly gives it a bit more thrust. It's like someone's popped a bit of ginger up a racehorses bottom! Not sure how people manage to accurately control these things with lithium batteries and brushless motors, but I guess there's only one way to find out. But that'll be for another day. Whilst I was away I bought some shock absorbers in 65/85mm lengths from t' bay o' ghey d'rekly from China. The supplier was surpriseonline022 and indeed it was a surprise. For £10 I got four shocks which actually measured 58/85mm in length. The bodies don't look too bad and are indeed spun on a lathe out of (the cheapest possible) alu. None of the shocks came filled with oil, the rear springs seem about right and the rear piston has two oil flow damping holes. The front springs are stupidly rock hard and yet the piston has no damping holes although the bore clearance is massive. To be honest I might actually fill up the rears with oil and see what they are like, but I want a set of four for obvious reasons. The front shocks aren't even worth considering really. I could cut down the spring to reduce the overstressed spring, but the incorrect length would have the car on its nose whilst still being over sprung and over damped. It'll oversteer everywhere! So yeah, that was a waste of a tenner...
  11. Well it's been a while! Anyway, after another hour or so of run time mainly on the asphalt of the road outside the house the next thing to come loose was the motor mount. It was the two short bolts that hold the motor to the aluminium mount rather than the longer two which couple the mount to the gearbox. Neither of these I tread-locked first time around, not a mistake I have made now. And since I was opening it up I might as well fit the Sport Tuned motor I'd bought a long time ago. I do find it a bit odd that Tamiya have an an almost entirely different colour system for the wires on both motors (green/yellow and red/black) compared to their ESC (yellow/blue). Is this a legacy thing or is Stevie Wonder moonlighting as an electronics guy?
  12. That paint job is really rather good indeed
  13. I think much of it is my inexperience in how tight I ought to do up bolts, nuts and screws into the plastics. When working on motorbikes every part pretty much has a torque value ascribed to it in the manual which means I'm sure I'm doing it right. Here I'm a little lost! When I've managed to dig the toolbox out of the garage I'll get the Vernier calipers onto the shocks, I'm guessing it's eye to eye length I need to measure? I did wonder if there was a go to set of shocks that everyone puts on this chassis family. I've no idea about which brands to search for or avoid as I'm so new to this game.
  14. It seems that every time I take the car out something ends up falling off or breaking. I'd understand if I was flinging it off jumps and down steps but it's mainly just zipping around which is a little frustrating. Last week the car decided to start losing contact with the transmitter. As I'd not painted the inner tray you could see the Futuba radio receiver blinking it's LED light. It had been working perfectly fine for three weeks and it took stripping out all the electronics, re-pairing the system a couple of times and reinstalling everything before it began behaving properly. Yesterday whilst moving house we took a little break and I took the car for a spin on the driveway. Suddenly there was the sound of plastic scraping across asphalt and the car was dragging it's nose on the floor. One of the front suspension units has failed. The piston rod has come unscrewed from the lower mount, and the yellow spring retainer and spring made a bid for freedom. They were easily found, but my tools are packed so I can't undo the lower mount and screw it back in easily. I'm hoping it's not stripped the yellow plastic thread out of the shock base but I won't know until I try. I did have a look last night to try and find a set of aluminium shocks for it, but even though I know the part numbers of the sprues, I can't find the length of the shocks quoted anywhere. Would anyone know what they are and have a suggestion of a decent set of shocks to buy please? Thank you!
  15. I've got a 2007 Citroen Dispatch van. I can fit two mo'sickles inside for racing weekends, and I've spent a month kipping inside it whilst surfing the north coast of Spain, south west coast of France. It's just a van with a nice floor and carpeted/insulated walls and ceiling, but it's grand for me
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