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About EvilSpike

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  1. That paint job is really rather good indeed
  2. I think much of it is my inexperience in how tight I ought to do up bolts, nuts and screws into the plastics. When working on motorbikes every part pretty much has a torque value ascribed to it in the manual which means I'm sure I'm doing it right. Here I'm a little lost! When I've managed to dig the toolbox out of the garage I'll get the Vernier calipers onto the shocks, I'm guessing it's eye to eye length I need to measure? I did wonder if there was a go to set of shocks that everyone puts on this chassis family. I've no idea about which brands to search for or avoid as I'm so new to this game.
  3. It seems that every time I take the car out something ends up falling off or breaking. I'd understand if I was flinging it off jumps and down steps but it's mainly just zipping around which is a little frustrating. Last week the car decided to start losing contact with the transmitter. As I'd not painted the inner tray you could see the Futuba radio receiver blinking it's LED light. It had been working perfectly fine for three weeks and it took stripping out all the electronics, re-pairing the system a couple of times and reinstalling everything before it began behaving properly. Yesterday whilst moving house we took a little break and I took the car for a spin on the driveway. Suddenly there was the sound of plastic scraping across asphalt and the car was dragging it's nose on the floor. One of the front suspension units has failed. The piston rod has come unscrewed from the lower mount, and the yellow spring retainer and spring made a bid for freedom. They were easily found, but my tools are packed so I can't undo the lower mount and screw it back in easily. I'm hoping it's not stripped the yellow plastic thread out of the shock base but I won't know until I try. I did have a look last night to try and find a set of aluminium shocks for it, but even though I know the part numbers of the sprues, I can't find the length of the shocks quoted anywhere. Would anyone know what they are and have a suggestion of a decent set of shocks to buy please? Thank you!
  4. I've got a 2007 Citroen Dispatch van. I can fit two mo'sickles inside for racing weekends, and I've spent a month kipping inside it whilst surfing the north coast of Spain, south west coast of France. It's just a van with a nice floor and carpeted/insulated walls and ceiling, but it's grand for me
  5. I use brake cleaner on literally everything. Need to clean the brakes on my motorbike? Brake cleaner. Suspension linkages got grit and old grease in? Brake cleaner. Flies, dirt and road grim on my helmet visor... You get the picture. It is the only thing that has gotten the biro off the painted doors in the holiday flat when my two year old decided he wanted to draw on them :/ It's such a high flash solvent that it disappears in seconds supposedly leaving nothing of itself behind to contaminate brake discs or pads with. It can cause surface discoloration of plastics as it removes the very top layer of oils from them, but a squirt of gt85 on plastic part puts back the sheene. I've not done exhaustive testing over years on RC car parts, but it's been fine on my five different motorbikes, one I've had since 2007... If you do use it, a500ml aerosol is about £4 a can, but a five litre bottle plus a hand operated pump sprayer from a local motor factors will be about £10. Useful if you have children who like to draw on things they shouldn't, or clean your windscreen wipers, or get rubber marks off plastics or...
  6. And also new bits have arrived... The Absima wheels are just cheap ones with onroad tyres, but the JC Racing Pepper Pots are going to look soooooo Ossum™. The hex's turned up today and I've fitted them. I bought 5, 6 and 7mm width ones as I didn't know which I'd need and the postage for one set was more expensive than the alu parts themselves. Doing up the tiny alen head bolt as tight as possible didn't actually lead to them clamping onto the driveshaft, but once the wheel is in place it holds the hex and the locking pin captive. I can't say the Absima wheels look any good whatsoever, but I'm hoping it'll drive far better on tarmac with them. I think it's raining tomorrow but I'm rather keen to see how it goes. When the local model shop opens whenever that may be I'll take the pepper pots in and get some good, suitable tyres for the astroturf/hardpack/gravel. Thanks for the help and encouragement everyone
  7. Despite thread locking all the accessible nuts onto the bolts, I found that the right rear shock top mount bolt had come loose after fifteen minutes of razzing around on the Astroturf. I was very lucky that the nut hadn't entirely come off, however there were only a few threads left to go. I'd have lost the brass bushing with absolutely no chance of locating it at all had it completely unwound. When cleaning the car off at home (just giving it a hoovering) I noticed that a lot of dirt had stuck to the top of the right rear shock too, it had obviously been leaking a little through the top diaphragm seal. Taking it off and after a good spray down with brake cleaner it seems I must have cross threaded it when I originally installed the cap and diaphragm, or the shock and vibration of running and crashing a fair few times meant it's been jolted off. The former is more likely but I'll keep an eye on it. Either way, I removed the cap and diaphragm, refilled it with oil as it had lost about a fifth of it's capacity and reassembled it. The two bolts got anther lick of threadlock and the car is on the side awaiting another day. I'm still waiting for the hex adaptors to arrive despite ordering them over a week ago. It'll be interesting seeing how it goes on tarmac with road tyres on. Hopefully my friend will be waving his airbrushes at the drivers head in short order and I'll be able to pop him/her into the car. I'm also wondering if I made the right choice with the 23T Sport Tuned motor, should I have gone for a different one with more power? Possibly even a brushless?
  8. Now it was looking all nice and shiny, so I might as well as go and use it... Whilst doing deliveries around town I had heard about a park with an astro turf pitch and a BMX track. It's tucked away on an estate on the edge of town so after doing the weekly shop I took a wonder over there. I was rather pleased I did as the astro turf was great for whizzing around. It's subsided a lot so is undulating in a few places which have collected dirt and rainwater over the years and now has grass growing in it, so perfect for small jumps. Filming and driving accurately isn't the easiest thing to do. I managed to hit one of the jumps quite consistently and get some decent air. About a third of the time the car would end up flipping one way or the other though, so the shiny body is now a bit dented and scratched. I was driving round at mostly full throttle for a good fifteen minutes and didn't notice any slowing down from the motor, so the 5000mAh battery has enough juice to last me for my entire attention span/available time. The car understeers everywhere which is something I might be able to dial out with different tyres and changing the setup, more camber on the front maybe, possibly retuning to the shorter preload collars. It might also just be something that 4WD cars do, more research needed I guess. I've gone a bit mad with buying wheels for it, some Fire Dragon wheels arrived today, they're exactly the same as these but black which I found going cheap on fleabay. I've also bought some Kyosho pepper pot wheels which are 2.2" diameter and seems to be the standard size for cars these days. The rears are wider than the fronts too, whereas the standard wheels are the same front and rear. It won't help the understeer problem but they look as cool as penguin widdle. Thirdly I've bought a cheap Absima wheel set with onroad tyres, they'll be better on the paddock asphalt for wherever the PB rc race takes place. And because everyone else has, I've bought a faster motor. Only a Tamiya Sport Tuned (23T) motor, but I don't want to kill the 'boxes so it'll do for now...
  9. So I managed to get some time in the evenings when I wasn't out delivering pizzas to do attach the stickers to the body. I genuinely found this be to be by far the hardest part of the build. Between cutting the things out and aligning them (despite using the cut a small bit of the backing paper off and then aligning method) it still seemed to take ages to get right, and I managed to mess up the two big decals. I didn't leave myself enough room for the "Pro-Cup Racing Team" stickers. Either way, I have used most of the decals to make it look somewhat like it ought to do. As standard it comes with the number "7" and I race as 728 so I've emailed a vinyl cut company to make me three 728's in the same colour and font so I've left a space for that. Also, I've not managed to paint the dust cover/driver plastics. The arms, hands and steering wheel need a few colours and only tiny amounts, so I'll wait until the shops open and buy paint pots from my local model shop so I can do those with a brush. The drivers helmet is made of more usual ABS plastic instead of lexan though, so I've sent it to a friend to airbrush it, he's someone who does commissioned pieces on Warhammer figures so is really, really good. I've sent him a design, we'll see how good it comes back but I suspect it'll be amazing. Anyway, this is how it looked this morning:
  10. I'll photograph everything I've got left over and pop it up for grabs, there's no point in me hoarding it. One thing I want to do is bop some different wheels on it. On the bike forum that prompted me to get the Terra we've decided next time we're together for a bike trackday we'll all bring the RC cars and have a race one lunchtime. The trash talk has started and gauntlets have been thrown left, right and centre. It'll be in a carpark so I'll need to get some tyres that'll work on asphalt. I've found these Fastrax Arrow wheel and tyres which I guess will be much better than the OEM pin-spike tyres on a hard surface. What I really want though is the JC Racing Pepper Pots... Apparently they are 2.2" diameter wheels, so I should be able to get a wide range of tyres to fit. Ah, we'll see, it'll be a while until we can sort out a trackday. Anyway, for now in order to stop so much damage happening to the underside of the body and the battery I've put in the larger preload spacers into the shocks, the car now sits much further up on it's travel, it was before using about 50% of it's travel as sag. If it handles like **** and oversteers everywhere I'll put it back, they only clip in and out. These are the collars for the rear, it's quite a difference!
  11. That's grand, thank you and really good advice, I'd much rather buy stuff off a a forumite rather than fleabay and the speculators+ebay fees... I have quite a few bits that came n the sprues from the TS build that I obviously have no need for. Is there a way I can give them to to the owners of other models that would benefit from them?
  12. That's an exceptionally good idea, rather than searching for individual bits continually, thank you! That's what I lost indeed, thank you! Hopefuly I won't lose any more but I'm aware of what may inevitably happen...
  13. Also, the wheels have taken a bit of a beating, they're stone chipped in quite a few places. Nothing structural, but at this rate they'll look pretty scrappy soon. If I want a larger option of wheels to buy people have mentions 12mm hex adaptor kits. Do these change the pin and three lug hub plates to something that will do for most aftermarket wheels? How wide should i get the adapters please, they seem to come in varied lengths? Is there much variation between wheels, tread patters and tyre compounds as to what to go for and to avoid? I'm not racing (yet) just need something to knock around with. Althpugh anything that look like Ronal Turbo or OZ Rally Comp wheels will get bought instantly... Thanks in advance for any advice or links (as that's what i'm fishing for )...
  14. So lookng at the damage from rolling it, I've scratched the wing and put a wee gouge in it. I tried a bit of G4 rubbing compiund which has made it better but the rest of the lexan a bit cloudy. Not much I can do about it, plus it'll get worse as it ends up in various hedges, drains etc... However, the wing seems to be rubbing on the body itself and scratching it through vibration. It's almost like the wing could do with some spacers to lift it a few mill. I've had a look through the manual and no spacers are shown when installing it. The support for the wing is only ABS plastic, would warming it gently with a hair dryer and lifting it upwards be the way forwards, or knock up a couple of spacers out of a left over sprue piece be a better idea?
  15. I will be from now on. I spent an age staring at gravel in the carpark on Saturday looking for the lower shock mount bushing after taking my Terra Scorcher out for its first run. Just a tiny amount of 242 on the threads of bolts before they go into flange nuts.
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