Mrowka

If you are willing to pay shipping from the US, I think AMain has all of the above.

I never do box art. I remember that moment when I was a kid, eyeing some plastic model car and thinking "neat car, but the decals look.dumb..." and then it dawned on me "if the decals look dumb, you don't have to put them on..." *💡*

Took little man to the buggy track. At least he actually got to race this time.

Interesting point, but I am not sure if there is a "chicken and egg" problem here. Racers looking for a scale-type racing class don't race because current classes aren't geared to them. Hardcore racers don't pay attention to what would win in a class that doesn't exist. As an aside, one reason certain 1:1 racing organizations have so many mid-season rule changes is to keep the racing competitive. Similarly, in 1:1 racing, some of the rules that are intended to prevent "buying" wins have the opposite effect. For example, it costs a lot more, in terms of time, effort, specialized expertise, and cash, to modify a set of junkyard small block chevy cylinder heads for dirt track racing, than it does to buy and rework a set of 23° aftermarket heads to get comparable flow numbers.

Thought of that but the angle of the drive axles didn't seem to make a difference.

That's why I did it.

My experience is limited, but get the puppy used to spending the night in his or her crate. Do not come get the puppy when it cries. It will otherwise learn that crying will get it out of the crate. Training is easiest and most effective in a low-distraction environment. Usually that means home. Once the dog has mastered a command at home, move to a slightly more distracting environment, such as the yard. Also, I taught my dog (a very large and dominant male pit bull terrier) that nothing is free. He'd have a nice meal, but he'd only get to eat after I said he could eat, and he'd have to sit and wait first. It got to the point where I could leave a raw beef liver in his bowl and I'd tell him to sit, right in front of it, I'd walk out of the room, and he knew not to touch it until I came back and told him he could eat. As someone said, first people eat, then dogs eat. Find out what motivates your dog (food, praise, toys, bones, whatever) and use that as a training reward.

For those keeping score at home (meaning - nobody) the problem is fixed, with a fresh set of side gears, along with some shims.

I might have. Let me know if you still need. I am based in the US, FWIW.

Does the fact that there is no clicking when I rotate the wheels by hand mean anything here? Not trying to sound snarky.

About a 21 turn. I tried the stock silvercan. It was better but the problem was still there.

I can look.

I own only one Tamiya, a Fox. I like the car, but I hate having to constantly fool with the gearbox/transaxle/whatever you want to call it). Recently, I bought a complete Novafox kit, just so that I could finally have a reliable transmission that didn't need attention all the time. Built the transmission with Kyosho 15K diff grease (not fluid), all seemed to go together smoothly, all new parts from the kit. I followed the manual, although Lord knows I have rebuilt Fox transmissions often enough. Well, this transmission also clicks on hard acceleration. I tried everything I could think of, tightened and loosened wheel nuts, tried a smaller pinion gear, adjusted the play between pinion and spur gears, tried the stock silvercan motor, tried everything short of tearing down the brand new transaxle. Some things mitigate the noise, but it is still there. Motor is a Traxxas Titan brushed, esc a HW 1060, so nothing crazy here. Pinion gear is usually 18T. With that setup, the car is a wheelieing fool. Can anyone tell me what I might be doing wrong here?!?! I've built other Tamiya and lots of Kyosho trannies and I don't have this problem. Just on the Fox.

Thanks. If you were outside the US, I was going to get you some US contacts to see what they could scare up, but if you're in the US you already probably have better sources for parts than I do.

Saito: where are you located? FWIW, for years, I have run a pertronix unit in my '69 Vette. It has worked well, but it needs to be wired in a specific way and only likes pertronix coil units, which aren't very reliable, in my experience.