Mrowka

My six year old begs to differ. I have to tell him to quit "working" on his Sand Dragon and not to "fix" my buggies, either. Then again, my wife runs our home as if she were the Komendant of a maximum security children's prison. No TV, no computers, smartphones, consoles, electronics, etc.. Loads of books. No candy, no fast food, chips, salt, sugar,.etc.. Health food only. Lots of outdoor "Family 'Fun'" activities that mean the kids spend more time outdoors than Tarzan. A family friend says she would put my wife up against any Palo Alto tiger mommy. The friend is an Indian doctor who lived in Palo and knows whereof she speaks.

I guess the simple answer is to ask what is faster on tarmac, 2WD or 4WD?

I have a Hobbywing 1060 in mine. It does foxy-type things.

I can see why 4WD would be faster on low grip surfaces, but would 2WD be faster on high grip? All other things equal, a 2WD car weighs less and has fewer drivetrain losses.

I bought some kind of paint eraser from Hobbyking and it worked as advertised.

Well, I didn't get stitches, LOL.

Testing a fairly powerful helicopter with a brushless motor, had a weird accident on takeoff, hit my left hand, tore my hand up pretty good and didn't do the helicopter any favors either. Oh, well, back to the old drawing board.

A helicopter attacked my hand last night and caused significant injuries. Ouch.

I built a re re Kyosho Ultima. All well and good and built according to instructions, but there is a lot of side-to-side play, an un-Kyosholike amount of play in both front and rear A-arms and bearing hubs. Definitely more play than either in of my re re Javelins or my OG Javelin. Dunno what is up with that, but the question remains, whether to do anything about it? If this were an on-road car, I'd break out the shims, but it isn't. So how tight does everything have to be for an offroad buggy?

FWIW, my reamer doesn't look much like that. Mine is stepped. I have ordered a different one.

Drill holes, not still holes.

About to finish a Kyosho Ultima and there are seven holes to be drilled in the body for the cage to mount to. How do you drill clean holes? I have a reamer, but testing it on scrap Lexan gives awful results. I've had my best luck using a fresh sharp Xacto knife as a reamer, but even that isn't quite perfect. I have tried using a cone-shaped grinder on a Dremel and the results are clean but hard to control. Also, do you drill before or after painting?

Also, a sanding block is helpful to make sure straight lines are in fact straight.

Don't use thread locker on anything with ABS plastic. Someone here mentioned candle wax. You can also use white glue on the threads, or a tiny dot of superglue (which is chemically quite similar to some threadlock compounds but won't harm plastic.)

Got a photo?