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Mrowka

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Everything posted by Mrowka

  1. Parts numbers appear to be different. IIRC, to install MIP ball diffs on a Frog, some other gears from a Blackfoot/Monster Beetle are also required.
  2. Ok, I restored an OG Javelin, but it's probably too nice to be a basher. Looking for another Tamiya or Kyosho buggy that can be driven a bit more without worrying about parts availability. Probably a re-re. As I understand it, in general, Tamiya re-res have more parts commonality with the originals than do Kyosho. Thought about another Javelin. Expensive, and for some $320 here in the states, you don't get a motor or ESC for that money. At least Javelins are somewhat available right now. Due to circumstances, I assume ordering from Asia means waiting forever. On the other hand, a Frog costs $200, if you can find one. And it comes with a serviceable ESC and motor. The Javelin is probably a lot more car. At least it should be, for another $120. BUT - if I buy a Frog, I figure I pretty much gotta buy a front shock kit and that means I gotta buy a set of decent front shocks. Maybe $50, assuming that I won't need rear shocks, too. Plus a ball diff, and that means at least another $60-70, once you throw in the gears that you need as part of the ball diff. At least the re-re Frog doesn't require dogbones. Of course, the Javelin will also require two ball diffs, at around $60 each. They're not technically required, but I might as well install them while I'm building the thing. Yay. At least it comes with the parts for a belt drive. May want different shocks but the factory ones will serve and are easy to replace. This nickel and dime nonsense starts to add up. Then I tell myself that the Frog would be a different driving experience, 2WD compared with 4WD, for one. That could be a good thing, depending. I also thought about a Wild One. Cool car, but I can't find anyone that makes a ball diff kit for it. The Grasshopper/Hornet? Drives lousy but cheap and tough as nails. Kyosho Beetle? I'm a big fan of Beetles. Hard to find right now, though. Hotshot/SuperShot/Whatnot? The SuperShot is supposed to be the much better driving car. Regardless, if I'm going down that road, I might as well spend a few dollars more and buy a re-re Javelin. Associated/Losi/Yokomo? I don't know enough about them. Nobody had them when I was a kid, at least not anybody that I knew. Actually, I don't think I knew many people with Kyoshos, either.
  3. Does anyone make a ball diff.kit for the Wild One/FAV chassis?
  4. Took the Javelin to a nearby baseball diamond for another run, this time with the kids in tow. Cleaned said Javelin after we had our fun while my little man played with his RC28.
  5. Yeah, it's pretty minty, if I may brag a little. So I don't want to drive the snot out of it. It also has what look like Kyosho Gold shocks, belt drive conversion, and appears to have ball diffs fore and aft. So it is hard not to drive the snot out of it.
  6. A prized off-road transmission is the VW Syncro from a German postal van, as these had an extra-low "G" (for Gelande) gear.
  7. Took my Javelin to a nearby baseball diamond for some bashing/shakedown, got it dirty. Seemed to drive ok, tracked straight, held corners well at speed, steering was pretty neutral but could be made to get tail happy when I wanted to. Not overly fast, which surprised me. I've never really driven a hobby grade car, so there was still a bit of a learning curve.
  8. Just how hot a motor might that be? Asking for a friend. Seriously, my OG Javelin with a 240 LeMans, HW 1060 ESC and NiMH battery drives pretty well, but it doesn't seem to be any kind of speed demon, at least not in a straight line. Maybe it is and I'm too inexperienced to know. I don't want to go too crazy, at least not to the point where I start breaking stuff all the time. Thought about a Kyosho G2X, since that's the factory recommended upgrade. Apologies if I am threadjacking.
  9. Yeah, I'm a bit reluctant to bash this car much, because the rere parts don't necessarily always fit the original Javelin, and I don't want to spend $TEXAS on parts when I break.
  10. Saw that, thanks. I would ask whether the OTW101 and a belt drive would be everything, but when my Javelin showed up, it already had the belt drive and ball diffs installed. Thanks once more.
  11. Hi, Newb. I'm not sure if this qualifies as "bragging" or "showing off" or not, but I am probably an even bigger newbie than you.
  12. I luurve the 130X. I am, like, a 130X fanboy.
  13. I learned to fly helis on a Blade MCX 2. I currently mostly fly 130Xs and other small copters. I've never had a simulator. When I was a kid, I hardly knew anyone with an r/c helicopter. They were complicated, fiddly, fragile, and didn't really fly all that well, unless you were some kind of super pilot, someone with nerves of steel, the motor skills of a neurosurgeon and the situational awareness of a top athlete. Even then, crashes were inevitable and often spectacular. Also, the helicopters were expensive. I did some back of the envelope calculations, and I figured that in the mid 1980s it would cost at least $1,500 US to get started with flying helis. And that doesn't include consumables, and further assumes that you didn't crash. If I had told my parents that I was going to spend $1,500 on a toy helicopter, they would have checked me into rehab because I would have just had to be on something. Then I was given that little Blade co-axial as a gift. I am not blessed with good reflexes, hand-eye-coordination or situational awareness, but I became obsessed with that little helicopter, coming home from work, charging the one battery I had as soon as I could so I could fly. And that little helicopter proved that even I could do it, I could learn to fly.
  14. There's quite a few companies that produce scale helis, especially in larger sizes, or conversion kits. These guys have a wide selection of scale offerings: http://www.heli-scale-quality.com/overview-of-all-hulls.html?___store=uk&___from_store=uk Thing is, scale helis tend not to be especially aerobatic, if that's your thing, and they are rather fragile in a crash.
  15. Remembered how much I hate working with Tamiya brush paints. Less coverage than Pamela Anderson's bathing suits.
  16. That is a Blade 70 S. Normally would have a canopy, but the canopy was destroyed. A tough little helicopter, easy and fun to fly, and in the States, available for about $70 RTF.
  17. To give you an idea of what kind of beating the Blade micros and nanos can take, I present you my daughter's little 70 S, missing canopy and all: Still flies well.
  18. Thanks. I'd rather ask dumb questions than jack up an otherwise nice buggy.
  19. I am in the process of restoring an old Kyosho Javelin, the type with an orange nylon(?) "tube frame". Should I clearcoat the frame to protect from dirt and make it easier to clean? Or am I (wait for it!) overthinking again?
  20. For whatever it's worth, the Blade micro and nano copters these days can take some Jackass level crashes and come back for more, and parts are plentiful and easily available. Also, they are so easy to fly and repair, even i can do it.
  21. Thanks for the replies, everyone, all very helpful. The ESC is waterproof, and the manual says to mount the ESC under the right side radio plate, like the Re-Bugged photo shows. I was more concerned with ESC orientation than the actual location on the buggy, since, as Re-Bugged put it, there isn't a lot of room. Sorry if I didn't make myself clear. Anyway, it seems that I am thinking too much.
  22. I have never built an r/c buggy before. As I've been mocking up components for my Javelin, I am wondering how hot will the ESC get and how critical is ESC placement? How important is it for the ESC to get plenty of airflow, versus how important is it to keep the ESC away from dirt kicked up by the tires, etc.? Or am I overthinking all of this? FWIW, ESC is the standard-issue Hobbywing Quicrun 1060, battery a 7.2V NIMH, motor a brushed LeMans 240S.
  23. For whatever it's worth, my eleven year old daughter loves flying her helicopter, and occasionally tries to fly one of mine.
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