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Everything posted by Mrowka

  1. Hey, my kidlet insists on "helping" me fix my copters and buggies.
  2. I just tested with a re re Turbo Optima converted to a Javelin. The Turbo Optima body does not clear the Javelin roll bar.
  3. Took one of my Javelins out, together with my little man. Said child managed to crash the Javelin and broke a front hub.
  4. I was an teenager in the mid-1980s, but I didn't have a Tamiya or any other kind of buggy then. I suppose, looking back, that it wasn't so much Tamiya's peak years as much as it was for r/c cars in general. Revolutionary changes were coming every few months; companies (not just Tamiya) were trying new things and nobody really knew what would work or when, so experimentation and improvisation wwre the key. New companies came and went, and all had radically ways of making a buggy. Probably something similar was happening with drivers at that time as well. By contrast, from what I can tell, today's r/c buggy scene is more corporate, more professional, more homogeneous. Everyone involved knows everyone else and what they are up to, and most of the companies' products are fairly similar to their competitors. Radical changes are rare, and evolution, not revolution drives those changes. We can argue later whether these things are good or bad.
  5. I did 15K in the rear differential, 10K in the front. This gets a result prone to tail-sliding, which is a good or bad thing, depending on what you like. With alignment at factory specs, it had power oversteer well nigh undrivable. With a bit more front toe-out, it is fun and easily controlled. Others have reported good results with 10K in front and 7K in the rear.
  6. After trying softer front springs on on of my Javelins last week and deciding that I didn't like it, I tried stiffer rear springs. That and a click more motor timing made life real interesting on gravel. Wheelie city. Then my son tore a tire off the wheel. We took the Javelin home and installed a different set of wheels and bashed around the backyard. By that time, the battery was ready on my Fox. Soon after starting out, I noticed a clicking sound, every time I put it into reverse. Looks like I'll be opening up the transmission on the Fox....
  7. I have a Turbo Optima re re (converted to a Javelin) with a powerful ARRMA ESC and a hot Fuze brushless motor. Probably about a 7T. Fast and reliable on 2S. I don't know that I'd try it on an OG Kyosho, however. Mainly because parts are harder to come by and more expensive.
  8. Kyosho makes aluminum rear bearing carriers for the Optima/Javelin re re. OTW117GM. I'd like to get my hot little hands on a set, but more than that I would want OTW125 universal joint swing arm shafts. (Hint hint please please!)
  9. Start by seeing whether you get a weird sound or resistance when you roll the buggy on the carpet with with everything turned off. If you get a noise or unexpected rolling resistance, disconnect the motor and see what, if anything, changes. Keep working backwards through the drivetrain until you isolate the problem. Do not drive it until you fix whatever is wrong. I don't know anything about this particular Tamiya model, but I had something similar in a Kyosho Javelin last week. Turned out to be a motor pinion. Go figure. Also, cheaper motors are typically not rebuildable. That doesn't mean that they are necessarily bad, just sorta disposable.
  10. Your guess is as good as mine, although this particular pinion seemed to be working just dandy, until it wasn't. So I am not sure what could turn a circular pinion eccentric as part of normal operation. For that matter, it doesn't explain how a grub screw could suddenly get wobbly, either.
  11. Took one of my Javelins out yesterday for a bit of light bashing. All went according to plan, when I started getting a whining noise.The drivetrain was sticking whenever the pinion was at a particular spot, but when I disconnected the motor, everything was smooth again. I took off the pinion gear (30T 45p Robinson) and saw no obvious damage or wear. The motor worked fine with the pinion gear off. Nor could I find anything wrong with the spur or counter gears. But the noise quickly started up again when I put everything back together. Having no good ideas, I took the car home and installed another Robinson pinion (29T) and everything worked fine again. Go figure. Looking at the original Robinson gear, I noticed that the grub screw is *really* loose and wobbly in the hole (no matter how far down it is) and the hex in the grub is a bit stripped. I compared with another pinion to see if it was just my imagination. The only thing I can think of is that maybe the grub screw was so wobbly that it allowed the pinion to move, relative to the flat spot on the motor shaft, with the result that the pinion was no longer centered, relative to the motor shaft. But not so wobbly that it would spin on the shaft. Does this make any sense? Or does anyone have a better explanation?
  12. Odd. Lunsford titanium turnbuckles aren't that much more dough on US eBay, and I recently bought Kyosho titanium turnbuckles for about $5.00 a pair.
  13. Stupit question, but what's wrong with titanium turnbuckles?
  14. 3.175mm and 5mm are standard motor shaft sizes. Often 5mm pinions are sold with an adapter so they can be used on a 3.175mm shaft.
  15. Reason No. 10964 why I don't do YouTube build videos. Just me, dropping parts, dropping tools, looking on the floor for parts and tools, over and over again. Only a diehard lover of pain and punishment could watch that, and I don't think they allow such non-family friendly fare on YouTube.
  16. Discovered that the front wheel camber in one of my Javelins was a bit goofy. Not only was it off relative to factory settings, the left and right wheels were off relative to one another. Odd, because that buggy always drove fairly well. Since I would have to take the camber rods out, I replaced the non-adjustable rods with a handy dandy Kyosho titanium rod, which will have the side benefit of making alignment adjustment much easier.
  17. Really not a big deal to drive a brushless car. My six-year old manages. Even I can drive a brushless car, sort of, and if I can do it, then anyone can.
  18. Almost all parts are interchangeable except the driveshafts, indrives and outdrives on a Novafox are dogbones and hex drives on a Fox. The Fox can be upgraded to dogbones using Novafox parts. Otherwise, they are pretty much the same car.
  19. For what it's worth, for all the reasons you guys have give, I am not sold on the idea of trying 3S on any of my buggies. My re re Javelins are supposedly designed to handle big power, their ESCs are up to the task, but I have had these batteries for a long time and there's a reason that I have resisted going down that road so far. Also, speed is addictive and all that, but there isn't really all that much art or finesse required to put a lot of voltage through a high-revving BL motor. Mostly, I wanted to know what I would be getting into if I tried, rather than finding out the hard way.
  20. Really stupit questions on going from 2S to 3S. I was given some 3S airplane batteries. Like most airplane batteries, these do not have a not very high "C" rating, somewhere around 20-30C. 1. If I were to use one of these batteries in a car that had been set up for 2S LiPo, do I correctly assume that I'll have to gear down my motor to take the higher motor speed into account and prevent overheating? 2. The cars I have have fairly robust ESCs, designed to take 3S LiPo. So far, so good. But will the relatively low "C" rating on the batteries give me any problems, fire hazards, etc.?
  21. The re re gold TO shocks will fit in place of the red ones. In fact, they are almost identical, other than the gold have screw-threaded limiters and the red use band clamps. And the color, of course. There was a recent thread discussing this, FWIW.
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