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Dr_GN

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About Dr_GN

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  1. I'd have welcomed any communication to be honest...
  2. OK great. I am using an ESC. Do I also need to change from the hexagonal dog-bones to the newer pin driveshafts With that diff? Thanks.
  3. OK thanks. Where’s the best place to get a ball diff? And what type of grease is anti-wear? cheers.
  4. No, nothing. I ordered a Tamiya re-re set and got the generic decals from that to make one good set. Applied using some heat from a hairdryer. Bit disappointed that I had to buy another set, and didn't get a response, but I'm happy with the results all things considered. My pal wants some decals for his Hummer, I actually suggested MCI becasue they don't seem to be available anywhere else, so we will see what they are like. I have warned him that they might not be great though. Re. originality - it's an occasional runner and a display model. I've kept the all-original body with orginal decals for posterity - it's hanging on my office wall (and the original wheels and tyres). It's also got the original speed controller and ceramic resistors, but runs with a pretty much invisile ESC above the battery. It's just nice to have something on display that's to my current standard of finish rather than the 13 year old me...
  5. All, I've recently rebuilt and started running my 1984 Frog. It still has all its original gears. When I stripped it, the gears looked in very good condition, with the exception of the motor pinion which was slightly worn in terms of tooth thinning. Since I've rebuilt it, I've had issues with the gears randomly locking when I turn the back wheels. It's like there's debris in there, but when stripped down, there's nothing solid and large enough to cause an issue that washes out. There is a sound like gears skipping when I run it. I also noticed when dismantling, that the 18T original brass gear is now very worn, in terms of tooth thinning. There's a thin coating of brass contaminated grease spray in the vicinity as well. I've never noticed this before. I suppose the grease/brass particle mix has made an effective grinding paste. I get the impression that the gearbox has worn rapidly since I started running the car again (only been run for about 6 times, about 20 mins per run). The wear seems totally disproportionate to that from the years I ran it back in the '80's. The only difference is that now I'm using Tamiya ceramic grease. I've ordered a new 18T pinion (no aluminium not brass) and will try again. I'm a bit confused about the best grease to use, the ceramic seems recommended for plastic gears, and I think Lithium for metal, but the Frog gearbox has both plastic and metal gears... Any advice? Thanks.
  6. No response to my email, so I've ended up buying Tamiya re-re stickers from Modelsport to replace the faulty ones. The others on the MCI sheet are OK-ish, but the white shadowing is pretty bad. Lucky they're going on a white base otherwise the whole lot would be in the bin. Not impressed.
  7. Thanks guys. I'll see what they say. I don't think it's an overall scaling issue becasue the NGK sticker appears to be exactly the right diameter.
  8. Anyone had issues with MCI stickers? I've just finished my Frog body, and the black netting stickers have heavy white shadowing, and the side "Frog Racing Team" stickers are way too long. I've contacted them to see what they'll do, but I wondered if anyone else had similar issues? Cheers.
  9. All standard in the gerbox. Had it from new - the car was well looked after - especially judging by some of the road kill I've seen on EBay.
  10. Yep, new stock spec 540 motor.
  11. Yup. Tamiya ceramic grease, ball raced as per standard. Diff seems fine.
  12. All, I started running my '84 Frog during lockdown, and have upgraded it with a 3300 NiMh battery, ESC and ball races throughout. IIRC I was getting 20 mins run time back in the day from a 1200 mAH NiCd hump pack (others have said that was hugely rose tinted, and it was more like 5-10 mins). I'm absoultely sure it was longer than 5 minutes, but still... I've timed the runs, and I'm getting about 14 minutes tops. Even if I was down at only 10 mins in '84, I should be at 27 minutes just on increased capacity alone, never mind having eliminated the resistors and nylon wheel/drive bushes. The battery has now been charged and run about 5 times. Any ideas? Cheers.
  13. All, I've been running my original Frog recently, and noticed the gearbox is a bit grindy. It also gets pretty hot after 10 minutes. Any upgrades available? Cheers.
  14. Thanks, the main one I need is the original Tamiya pink, but white and black would be good too, although I guess they are more easily available from other sources than Taniya?
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