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About Dr_GN

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  1. Still works smoothly, but can't be cammed apart. When the thread retainer is set it should be sorted.
  2. Finally got around to finishing a driver for it. Never bothered when I built it, but thought I’d paint the one I got on the servo saver sprue kit: If things get muddy, obviously he can ask for the visor to be lowered
  3. Bear in mind that some paint fumes and dried overspray dust can be explosive under certain conditions/concentrations. If you have an incorrectly sealed and/or rated fan motor within the extraction system, an electrical spark could spell disaster. IMO just buy the correct tool for the job and be safe.
  4. Actually, I think I'll use the countersunk screw method on the original diff, and save myself £100.
  5. Thanks, I can get those gears I guess, but the driveshafts are different. I think I'll need some of these: https://www.timetunnelmodels.com/live/catalog/tamiya-19808038-9808038-drive-shaft-2pcs-58354-frog-p-16256.html and these: https://www.timetunnelmodels.com/live/catalog/tamiya-19808039-9808039-wheel-axle-2pcsfor-58354-frog-p-16257.html Do the original rubber bellows boots fit over these I wonder?
  6. All, I'm going to treat my old '84 Frog (re-furbed) to a ball diff for Christmas. Modelsport do them, but list them only for Blackfoot and Monster Beetle. I've asked the question to Modelsport about if it's compatible with the original Frog, or if not, what parts I need to make it right (got no reply as yet). From the CAD image, it seems like the diff output shaft stubs are not the hex drive versons I've got: I've no problem in swapping them for other types, or swapping the driveshafts and outer cups, so long as they're Frog compatible. Has anyone fitted a MIP ball diff to a Frog, and if so, what parts do I need? Any other options? Thanks!
  7. I'd have welcomed any communication to be honest...
  8. OK great. I am using an ESC. Do I also need to change from the hexagonal dog-bones to the newer pin driveshafts With that diff? Thanks.
  9. OK thanks. Where’s the best place to get a ball diff? And what type of grease is anti-wear? cheers.
  10. No, nothing. I ordered a Tamiya re-re set and got the generic decals from that to make one good set. Applied using some heat from a hairdryer. Bit disappointed that I had to buy another set, and didn't get a response, but I'm happy with the results all things considered. My pal wants some decals for his Hummer, I actually suggested MCI becasue they don't seem to be available anywhere else, so we will see what they are like. I have warned him that they might not be great though. Re. originality - it's an occasional runner and a display model. I've kept the all-original body with orginal decals for posterity - it's hanging on my office wall (and the original wheels and tyres). It's also got the original speed controller and ceramic resistors, but runs with a pretty much invisile ESC above the battery. It's just nice to have something on display that's to my current standard of finish rather than the 13 year old me...
  11. All, I've recently rebuilt and started running my 1984 Frog. It still has all its original gears. When I stripped it, the gears looked in very good condition, with the exception of the motor pinion which was slightly worn in terms of tooth thinning. Since I've rebuilt it, I've had issues with the gears randomly locking when I turn the back wheels. It's like there's debris in there, but when stripped down, there's nothing solid and large enough to cause an issue that washes out. There is a sound like gears skipping when I run it. I also noticed when dismantling, that the 18T original brass gear is now very worn, in terms of tooth thinning. There's a thin coating of brass contaminated grease spray in the vicinity as well. I've never noticed this before. I suppose the grease/brass particle mix has made an effective grinding paste. I get the impression that the gearbox has worn rapidly since I started running the car again (only been run for about 6 times, about 20 mins per run). The wear seems totally disproportionate to that from the years I ran it back in the '80's. The only difference is that now I'm using Tamiya ceramic grease. I've ordered a new 18T pinion (no aluminium not brass) and will try again. I'm a bit confused about the best grease to use, the ceramic seems recommended for plastic gears, and I think Lithium for metal, but the Frog gearbox has both plastic and metal gears... Any advice? Thanks.
  12. No response to my email, so I've ended up buying Tamiya re-re stickers from Modelsport to replace the faulty ones. The others on the MCI sheet are OK-ish, but the white shadowing is pretty bad. Lucky they're going on a white base otherwise the whole lot would be in the bin. Not impressed.
  13. Thanks guys. I'll see what they say. I don't think it's an overall scaling issue becasue the NGK sticker appears to be exactly the right diameter.
  14. Anyone had issues with MCI stickers? I've just finished my Frog body, and the black netting stickers have heavy white shadowing, and the side "Frog Racing Team" stickers are way too long. I've contacted them to see what they'll do, but I wondered if anyone else had similar issues? Cheers.
  15. All standard in the gerbox. Had it from new - the car was well looked after - especially judging by some of the road kill I've seen on EBay.
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