Wetman
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Posts posted by Wetman
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A Monkey Bike. Had my first ever fall off one of those!! The model looks fantastic as well
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If I think of anymore manufacturers i`ll givew you a shout
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2 minutes ago, DayRider said:
Yeah, I did give 210mm a go for a bit and had a Phat body on it. It looked really nice too, but it was just a bit too edgy on the striates.
What chassis you using?
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Just now, DayRider said:
L and L, I remember looking on their site a while back and most of the ones I liked had sold out, but I will have a look on Kamtec. I don't mind choosing all the other bits and bobs. It just seems like all the 225mm wheel base sets have sold out. 210mm is just a bit too twitchy for me. Thanks
Is it 225mm your after?
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L and L models do some decent ones. Kamtec are decent but you`d need to organise you own add ons, mirrors spoilers etc
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30 minutes ago, Mechanic AH said:
I found these cheap red LEDs with Futaba/servo connectors and just took a gamble (see photo). The LED came with a plastic cup/housing below the LED light and it fits almost perfectly into the rear light bank/tray of the TC-01 (see diagram highlighted in magenta). The LED size and length fits well inside too. I had to cut one LED out and shorten/rewire it. The LED is connected to the battery channel/port of the receiver. I still haven't had the time to figure out a clean way to conceal the wire from the back to the front so I just looped it around the frame for now, and it's tucked underneath one of the rear dampers so it doesn't get tangled with moving parts. So far after a few runs the wire stayed in place.
I really am liking that. For a compact narrow chassis it looks very tidy and uncluttered, if that makes sense
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I haven`t had time to blink lately much less do anything hobby related. Had to clear my area ( or the corner of the dining room as its better known) ready for the carpet fitters tomorrow so gave my shelves a bit of a clear up. Sat and looked at the Gwagon Snotmobile and it really isnt doing much for me looking at it and I don`t have time to run it, hence the post on the for sale add, looked at what i had to start messing with the defender and an interior etc but not a hope of starting on it so all in all a pretty slack time of it at the moment. So hows everyone else doing, either Tamiya wise, RC wise or just in general?
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4 hours ago, CoolHands said:
Received some cheap servos so now can I can take out the expensive corally servo from my konghead which I was using temporarily.
before
side by side
fitting
it really needs a clean but can’t be bothered! It’s a general fun runner not a show queen
A silly question but is that not a bit heavy for "cheap" servos?
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That is one good looking car mind
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Anyone interested in the MF-01x Merc cabrio? As it stands, ballraced, esc, servo and motor in it, no radio gear. £100 posted UK. Give TC members first dibs before I advertise it else where
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Has anyone else had a problem with a very soft front suspension with no rebound? The front of the Land rover goes down under virtually no pressure then stays down and doesnt rebound back to normal ride height, almost as if theres no spring assistance. The rears are fine. Is this a common fault and is there a fix for it. I havent checked the fluid levels in the dampers yet but theres no signs of leakage and I know they were filled to the brim when I assembled it.
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Was it tamiya paint you used to back the body? I have had the same issue with Core rc paints where the nozzle requires regular cleaning IE after every coat or you get the same flakes and lumpiness but, touch wood, never had the same problem with Tamiya
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1 minute ago, Saito2 said:
Fender Champion 50XL. I love fender amps (I don't typically do the Marshall stack thing) It seems pretty well received but some of them evidently get noisy or problematic on the effects side. Must be a random flaw. In these times, I'm mail order only, so its a gamble.
Agreed. I made a post many years back about Tamiya refusing the "admit" their mistakes. The Juggernaut was a rare case. Whether its an outright flaw like the re-re Blackfoot/Monster Beetle driveshaft issues of just a subtle upgrade like the Clod you spoke of, it doesn't happen.
I do feel safe with Kyosho and probably would with Schumacher. I don't feel Associated is as good as they once were. The fact they axed all the RC10 parts left a bitter taste in my mouth too I guess.
Never had one so can`t comment. I actually had the champion 30 a few years ago and never had a bit bother with it. Never had an amp with the built in effects though, I`ve always prefered amp and stand alone pedals set up
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8 hours ago, Saito2 said:
I'm in the market for a Fender guitar amp. Like any purchase (for me, anyway), you go down a long rabbit hole of research and review-reading. Most people like the amp I'm considering but then you look at the negative reviews. There's a small group with a consistent complaint that gives me pause. The consistent part bothers me. Will I be one of those few who suffer noise on the effects side of the amp? Roll the dice? I generally overthink it and lock up with indecision.
Tamiya is not like that in my case. I know what to expect from Tamiya (aside from the Juggernaut fiasco) and that's comforting. I love the looks of the MST CFX Jimny kit. But who is MST? For that matter, who is Arrma? who is CEN? How long are they going to be around? I'm so stodgy, I'm just coming around to thinking Axial might be here to stay and that my '88 Mustang 5.0 isn't exactly a "late model" car anymore, lol. So, despite not liking the body, I'll probably being getting a CC02 (shockingly my first non-rerelease purchase in years) because its safe. It might not be the "best" for the money, but its safe. Tamiya will be here down the road. Anyone else feel this way?
Yep. Bought an Annsman mad rat years ago, wasnt too bad for the money couple of niggles with it`s quality but hit a kerb and smashed an arm a couple of years ago and now its knackered, spares are rarer than hens teeth. Tamiya though aside from the intial good quality theres still bits kicking about off 20 year old kits.
What amp you after? and is there a LMS that would let you use your own guitar to test an amp with? Mine does in Huddersfield if I ask nicely and drop in a packet of choccy biccies when I go
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26 minutes ago, speedy_w_beans said:
Beware, all ye who enter: Tamiya Motor Specs
Torque-tuned should be 25 turns (second from the bottom). Should work fine with the TBLE02.
Wow. I honestly hadnt realised Tamiya do that many motors
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14 minutes ago, DeadMeat666 said:
Both would work on a TBLE02S.
Compared to the approx. 15k rpm (27t) of the standard silver can, the torque tuned has a max rpm of 16k with more torque than a silver can, and is a 25t, while the dirt tuned has even more torque, a max rpm of 17k, and is rebuildable. Funny enough the dirt tuned is 27t, which I found unusual.
so the torque tuned would be more suitable for a cc-01 and give more grunt rather than top speed than a standard silvercan?
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On 9/10/2020 at 8:11 AM, Jonathon Gillham said:
In my experience a Pug won't have back seats, they will be removed to fit all the tools and spares you need to keep going...
in my experience the pug had very adequate back seats
but the 306 maxi was always a very good looking motor and Tamiya had the chassis right with the FF.
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As per the thread title what's the difference please? As far as I rember 27 turns is about right for the silver an but what is the torque tuned or even dirt tuned and would either work on the TBLE02?
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Different classes for those of us without lipo driven rockets?
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Not much of a collection to remember at the moment. Basically the 4 4x4's and a Lunchbox and a handful of left over sprue parts. Slowly building back up though and a tractor unit of some description is next on the cards hopefully although may be a while before funds allow.
Anyway any excuse for a piccy
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29 minutes ago, Juggular said:
Mad Ax has already mentioned it. I would like to add a couple of photos.
CC01 has a flaw. But it's quite easily fixed. The 2 gears you see below have a lot of room to play. It shouldn't.
So, add a couple of copper bushings (two 850s) you will not use (because you ordered bearings) and move the differential gear to the direction of the arrow. This ensured that the gears mesh properly.
(below photo shows one 1150 bushing and one 850 bushing, this way, you don't need shims)
My CC01 is a used one. The previous owner didn't know about this problem.
If you look at the teeth, you can see how the teeth on both gears are not quite pristine. They were starting to be destroyed.
Below is from Jugg 1, but you can see what would happen if you leave it like that. Since you asked about CC01, you now know how to prevent this from happening!
Wow. Didn't know that one. Easy enough to strip and add the bushings?
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Oh goody. 'Erbert's twin brother and something else to sneak past the missus
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It does thanks. At the moment I have done a mock up with wiring to the sides under window level but that left the control unit in no man's land. Looks like the interior is the way to go
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How has everyone mounted theirs? And how have you run the wires to keep them out of view? Is it best to mount the control unit to the body or the chassis?
Top 3: your most reliable + durable Tamiya off-road buggy chassis? And least (to avoid)?
in General discussions
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Is the rising fighter a continuation of the fighter buggy RX or a completely new model?