Mozzie

If you wouldn't mind checking that would be awesome

Hi, does anyone have a spare Avante 2011 Cockpit and Driver they are willing to sell? Thanks

The Egress one fits the thread and just requires some slight filing on the wings and it's done up nice and tight now with no slipping. Not ideal but I've got the other ordered from Sweden so this will do in the meantime.

Legend, I've been traveling the web trying find one hadn't come across this site! Thanks mate

Hi @Manix92 been doing a bit more research. The thrust bearing washers on the DN01 are identical to the TRF417 This means the shaft should be the right thickness Given that the dog bones and UJs seem to be pretty standard across the Tamiya range I assume the nut lugs that fit into the out drives should be fine too. The lugs do look a little thicker on the picture but pretty confident they could be filled down a bit if that's the case. I can't find the length but from the pictures they look broadly the same. They seem to be in plentiful supply and I've just picked one up from Tony's Tamiya parts link below. I'll let you know if it works! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/383481749905

You can get reverse decals from MCI you stick on the inside. I tried them on my bigwig but the paint from the inside showed through, I think if you backed them in white before you applied them it could fix it. In the end I decided it was too much hassle!

Cheers for letting me know. I've just found this https://www.eurorc.com/product/21715/xray-alu-ball-diff-25mm-nut---swiss-7075-t6, have ordered and will report back, will also try the trf415 one which I ordered too.

@Manix92 did you find a nut to fit by any chance?

That looks awesome, coincidentally I've just finished a mystery machine build with my wife, thought it was a nice introduction to the hobby, she did all but the paint job. Added a couple of mods too, a brace across front suspension mounts, metal body posts, CVA short shocks, aircraft wheels for wheelie bar, foam in tyres (not sure if this will help or not), 13.5t brushless motor (feel this maybe too much but can always swap out) and lights to make it look cool! We've been waiting for the paint to harden so taking it out for a spin tonight! Here she is

@DeadMeat666 i used this, cheap from Amazon but does really well. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00178J9E2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ikgaFbGMCE95Q

Thanks for the comments @DeadMeat666, I really disliked the box art, reminds me of a hot wheels car so went for something a bit more classic. As @Jontea said I would go velcro, wish I had done that in hindsight. I ended up doing it as well as useful for keeping dust and grass out too if you're running it 😄

Thank you @Fruitfly01 I did come across that post but wondered if it might bow as well and does limit my spur options. I'm using the 78t spur currently so I'll see if I can get one ordered

Hi 😄 I wondered if anyone knows of an alternate DF03 gear box covers or how to adapt the stock one in any way. I noticed when I built it that overtightening creates a gap to the motor plate and the seal isn't quite right if you slacken it off to allow for that Mine has let a bit of dust in after running it and have had to clean it. I can see there's a limited edition clear blue tree of parts, that looks potentially like it's made of more sturdy plastic, but hard to tell, hoping one of you has used this and can confirm. Was also wondering about trying to seal it somehow too but guessing heat from the motor plate might be an issue so have no idea what material I might be able to use, or maybe anti wear grease might be my only option. Any help would be greatly appreciated. @Juhunio just tagging you in case you already solved this on your build 👍

Thanks for the replies, will take a look. Durga seems difficult to get hold of from what I can tell, do you know if it's still being made?

Hi all, Looking for a bit of advice please 😁 I've recently built a Grasshopper, Bigwig and a bigger DF03 project which I hopped up a fair bit. I really, really enjoyed the builds, but what has come apparent to me is how fragile the Tamiya kits are, even the slightly more modern DF03 with the various things I did to strengthen and improve it, is weak. I've been on the lookout for something a bit more robust I can have a good offroad bash with, been to a local BMX pump track so ideally something that should work well there. I want something I can put brushless power into, around 10.5T, I don't want to have to repair something every time I take it out and it has to be a kit! Am I destined to move away from Tamiya to find this? I get that most of the Tamiya kits are rere and based on old tech, but what's the general consensus on the most robust kit currently available? I really don't want to move away from Tamiya, a lot of my research has pointed me towards the likes of Traxxas and Arma kits but those are ugly as sin! As one of the more modern of the rere kits I was looking at a Top Force which is available in tamico at the moment, but being unable to fit a slipper clutch has sort of put me off a bit especially as I want to go brushless. TRF kits seem like the best Tamiya option but are too expensive as can only really get second hand. I'd prefer to stay old school and I've also been looking at the Schumacher CAT XLS and Kyoshos which look robust but hard to tell and not Tamiya either 😭😭 Any advice would be gratefully received 😄

Hi, I've just ordered some original Bigwig decals for my rere build I'm about to start from MCI. I noticed the option for reverse decals to stick on the underside of the body which I presume is to protect and keep a smooth look which I like the sound of. Have found limited information on them or how to guides so just wondered what experiences people have of them, are they any good? Are there any pitfalls to watch out for? Any prep work required? Thanks in advance 🙂

It was all from the same sheet from RC decals on eBay. It's a tribute to this 😄

Sold now

That's well impressive, didn't think it would be possible to fit. Great paint job too!

Don't think it will be possible, is pretty tight in there! Might have a look at some tyre decals but as this will be used a lot, not sure it's worth it, as they rub off I imagine. Anyway, I've finished apart from a pair of universal shafts, have them on the rear but waiting for the front ones that haven't turned up yet and also some alloy knuckles. Then just various bits I'm still on the hunt for. I also have a turnbuckle adjuster coming too so I can set up the wheel geometry properly, my fingers were killing doing it with pliers cushioned with tissue and putting the ends on by hand so haven't even attempted to set it up! Spent most of the afternoon breaking in the diffs and then setting the slipper clutch up. Took a lot of time and care over this so hopefully will give it some longevity. I then took it out for a spin, I'm really happy with the feel of it, running a 13.5T brushless and just a NiMh at the moment. I'm a complete amateur so didn't know what to expect, but it feels like a Rolls Royce compared to my Grasshopper, properly smooth and quick enough for my liking. When I get a Lipo that fits I think it will be a really nice drive. I then did this on a kerb, fortunately this is one of the alloy parts that is arriving in the next few days from Hong Kong. I've also ordered the C parts off eBay coming from the UK as a backup. That got me thinking, this idea of the car is just for messing about with, so breakages are likely to happen. Can anyone share their experiences around common breakages so I can get a few spares in advance?

Hi all, I have these which I bought by mistake. They are both unopened in original packaging. Looking for £20 pound a piece or will do both for £35 including postage if in UK Cheers 👍

Hi all I recently cut my (37 year old) teeth and built a lockdown treat Grasshopper re-release, a Tamiya was the car I never had as a kid! A Nikko sound ripper was as good as I got, although have to say I did love that car! I got the bug to build something a bit more complex and decided on buying a Dark Impact with various hop ups. I didn't realise the scarcity of them and also the drive train issues, but I have set off on the course and decided to stick with it. Special thanks to @Juhunio whose project I found whilst researching hop ups, he has helped me with some sage advice along the way 👍 The slipper clutch is out for delivery today which is the last bit I really need so should be able to get on with it in the next couple of days. Have a bunch of hop-ups mainly to strengthen rather than bling, as well as a hardened steel pinion to go on the slipper shaft. In the meantime I thought I'd share where I was up to. First was to try my hand at soldering the wires to the ESC and motor. I've gone for a modest cheap Turnigy setup initially with a 13.5T brushless. I might have to rethink the bullet connectors due to limited space, may have to flip them or have to solder the wires directly to the terminals. Will have to see though. Have some XT60 plugs to go on as I will be using a 2S Lipo eventually so will put those on next. The only other thing I could feasibly do without the slipper clutch was the shell. My first go at spray painting and masking and think I was particularly ambitious with three colours on the shell but think it has come out ok. I went for my favourite livery of the 7up Jordan which were around when I was first getting into F1 as a kid. Have fond memories of them. I have also ordered some white pin stripes to go between green and blue which is true to the original and should also hide the minor paint bleeds I experienced. Anyway, thats where I'm at for now, to I'll post some more in the coming days Peace out

Thanks all, sounds promising 👍

Hi, Just wondered what people's experience has been since Coronavirus, particularly with RCJAZ, I'm awaiting a slipper clutch from them which I need really before I can begin my DF-03 build, proper desperate to get started! They sent me a Hermes link on Friday which just says awaiting item, guess that will only show once in UK maybe? Cheers Tom

Looks like from the diagram @catman79 is right. The pressure plates are identical from looking at the hop up pack so the one closest to the gearbox would have a raised section, it's just flipped around on the diagram.