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DeadMeat666

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About DeadMeat666

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  • Birthday 08/17/1977

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  1. Start by clipping an e-ring to the second groove on a shaft. Place the piston (round disc with multiple holes in it) through the shaft and so that it rests on the e-ring. Clip the second e-ring on top to trap the piston between the two e-rings. Place the shaft inside the cylinder and out the hole in the bottom. Lubricate the shaft and an o-ring with some silicone shock fluid (provided). Slide the o-ring up the shaft from the bottom where it pokes out from the cylinder. Slide the spacer up the shaft after the o-ring. Slide the rod guide piece after that, making sure the stepped lip is facing down (not up towards the o-ring and rod guide). Slide the bottom shock cap and screw it in, trapping all those other pieces you put in. Grab the shock shaft with shock pliers (or a napkin to prevent scratches, and normal pliers), and screw in the ball-end. That takes care of the picture you've shown and then some. Let me know if you need any more guidance.
  2. Ok I looked at the manual for the 4YWD, and I see the shift gate attachment. I understand the the horizontal axis of the left stick would be used to shift gears (CH3), and the horizontal axis for the right stick would be for steering (CH1). Question is, where would one assign the throttle (CH2)? To the left stick or the right stick, typically? Both options seem rather awkward in theory.
  3. What I assume is a pretty straightforward question, but I am struggling to find any information on the net. Forgive my ignorance if this topic had already been covered and I simply didn't find it. I have a Futaba 3PV, which I assume is a 3-channel transmitter. Is it possible to operate the transmission of a Tamiya 3-speed with that 3rd channel? If not, can anyone recommend a "cost effective" but decent transmitter/receiver I could get in case I end up buying a 3-speed?
  4. Great detail in this thread! I have been putting off posting my M06 build for .... a year now? I have all the pictures ready, but I somehow never got around to it. Perhaps following along with your build thread will motivate me
  5. I don't get it either. It looks like you're right; the bearing can't spin since the countergear shaft has a keyed slot, so they'd always rotate together. I put a bearing there anyway, but I do recall wondering what the point of it would be. Big T are committed enough to even give you a bearing for that spot on the Terra Scorcher! But they skimped out on giving you the 2 thrust bearings for the bevel gears LOL SMH....
  6. Congrats on the purchase! Truth be told, universals are usually only needed for the front, since it's expected to drive, bounce and steer, turning the dogbones in strange directions sometimes that makes them likely to pop out. That would reduce the amount of funds needed by 50% for the time being. Good luck with the build.
  7. Welcome to TC @WideOpen, great to have you. Your post seems pretty RC-related... not sure why you decided to put it in the "Anything not RC related goes here" section
  8. Only one RC club in my vicinity, and they exclusively run 6s or 8s Traxxas bash-monsters, so my comparatively delicate kits don't exactly fit in. And that's why I'm not a member of an rc club.
  9. And here I am still installing 'fancy' servos (!!) for each of my builds! The lowest-spec servo I have is a PowerHD 15kg metal-geared jobby (1501MG); the rest are all better than that. Somehow I can't justify putting a cheapo generic servo in a build, especially since most of my builds are admittedly pretty blingy.
  10. THAT is a whole lot more organized than I could ever hope to be. Of the 22 kits that I have, I'd say 4 are ready to run, and all the rest are in various states of completion. Even funnier is the fact that for those 4 RTR's I have 20 or so futaba receivers (ouch$$) and a transmitter that can only store 10 I need to plan better...
  11. You have to love how monstrous the rear tires are depicted in the box art; you can't help but be a little disappointed when you open the box
  12. Which came first, this or the Hotshot? Because one DEFINITELY copied the other lol.
  13. I take it you also assumed that heat is not a factor. Very interesting study. The SuperStock is quite a jump up from the Torque Tuned, and I suppose the Sport Tuned would be somewhere in between the Torque Tuned and the SS. Probably a good idea would be to multiply the m/s figures by 3.6 so that the speeds are displayed in km/h, which we can all relate to. Great work!
  14. I have the 120 amp version and very happy with it. It's also not so big, and that's always a plus in my book. You will need a program module or a link to change its settings if you don't want it to be on its default setting, which I believe is blinky.
  15. Yes the aluminum chassis plate is still in the box. I'm using PSM's carbon chassis for the TB Evo 7. Honestly it's just because it looks better 🤷
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