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About DeadMeat666

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  • Birthday 08/17/1977

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  1. I want to thank everyone for their responses/takes on the matter, it's really appreciated. It's also good to know that this kind of thing is not so uncommon. To answer some of the questions that were asked (in no particular order because I'm not that organized): 1. I'm not intending on selling anything at the moment. Half because I'm blessed enough to be financially stable right now, and half because shipping from where I am would make it both impractical and expensive to sell things, so as long as I have room for it, it's staying. 2. I don't THINK I'm having a mid-life crisis, but I could be wrong. Nothing else has changed in my life: still go to work, regularly go to the gym, etc. 3. I got back into the hobby around Dec 2019, before the 'Rona was even a thing, but I don't doubt that the pandemic gave me a lot more free time trapped at home, and fueled my resurgence through online purchases. For a while I was literally making an online order EVERY DAY. I've ordered nothing in the past 3 months; haven't even e-window shopped. 4. I guesstimate that around USD 30k have been spent since Dec 2019, so not a little (for 2 years), but not a mortgage either. But I'm sure you can see what I mean when I say to myself "did I really need to?" 5. Burn-out is probably what happened, so I'll just ride it out for now, and see how I feel as the months drag on. Any advice on how to store 20 mostly-built kits in such a way so as they don't deteriorate? I've already taken all their wheels off so they don't develop flat spots.
  2. Hey all, Over the past 2 months, something very strange (to me) has happened: I've completely lost all interest in RC as a hobby, and it's frustrating me to no end. The feeling first started the moment I received the 934 45th edition; I just put it away in my closet and went on with life. Now, every time I find some free time, I stay away from the hobby like it's the plague. Reasons I find this frustrating: 1. I really like the community here, and I like contributing, but without actively engaging in the hobby, there will gradually be less and less reason to check up on this forum. 2. I have amassed a collection of (in my opinion) very nice RCs, some of which remain NIB even though I was very excited to build them before, but not so anymore. (Egress, TF Evo, Dynablaster, 934, etc) 3. I now feel like this whole exercise was a collosal waste of funds that I could've used elsewhere. I now look at my "closet of adventures" (with all the kits in it) with total confusion and regret. I'm not necessarily looking for validation, but it would be nice to know if something like this has happened to any of you before, and how did you handle it?
  3. I read that in a Sean Connery accent . Go over it again carefully and you'll know why lol. Back on topic though, I also use a cheap-n-cheerful 60w iron and it serves me just fine, even for soldering wires onto motor tabs.
  4. 13awg is probably the optimum wire for 1/10 scale rc, pretty much able to handle 99% of situations up to 3S. For the rest of us civilians, 14awg is perfectly fine for 95% of applications. 12awg is slight overkill in my humble opinion, unless it's a 10,000+kv motor and a monster amp to match. Short answer: yes, 14awg is enough.
  5. My OCD sense tingles every time you call that RZ motor "BZ" The Hotshot seems like a great kit to build, and I almost feel like I missed out on some of the magic by building a Super Hotshot instead. The beauty of this forum is that now I can enjoy a Hotshot build vicariously by reading this thread Very clean job so far!
  6. Actually I do, I just forgot that I did lol. I bought one used from eBay a couple months ago, but I haven't gotten around to using it yet.
  7. Prepare to be disappointed. The TT02 chassis is not designed to be run in RWD only, so you'll mostly be doing donuts*. In fact it's quite difficult to drive any 1/10 RC road car in RWD, but those that are designed to do so have more weight on the driven wheels. Even the M08 is quite a handful unless you're a. really good, and b. on a high-traction surface like carpet. The instant torque that electric motors have combined with the loss of braking in the front wheels conspire to make RWD road cars very frustrating to keep on track.** * Source: personal experience from trying it myself. ** I have an M02, and M06, and an M08, which are all RWD platforms.
  8. Wouldn't that only be true if the driveshaft was in full contact with both drive-cups at all times? As far as I'm aware, driveshafts in the TT01, TT02, or any shaft-driven RC should have some (axial) play in them, to account for chassis flex, which is why there are little foam pieces, or springs, or even just a small space between the driveshaft and each of the front and rear drive cups. So in practice, there is similar axial force on the driveshaft in 2WD than there naturally is in 4WD 'mode'.
  9. 1000% And I can understand the confusion; I initially thought that the esc, which powers the receiver, would naturally belong on channel 1, but it doesn't. Channel 1 in most (if not all) ground receivers is meant for steering, and channel 2 is meant for the speed control unit.
  10. ESC: Hobbywing 1060 Motor: keep it stock, or optionally go for a Tamiya Sport Tuned if you want some more 'oomph' Servo: PowerHD 6001MG - 6kg metal geared servo that is priced reasonably and will last Transmitter/Receiver: Flysky or DumboRC of the cheap-and-cheerful sort to start with, and then you can upgrade to something that can handle multiple receivers if your son turns out to like the hobby and wants to go deeper into the rabbit hole.
  11. No need to worry about turns at this stage. Just look up "Tamiya Sport Tuned Motor" and it should turn up. Just be sure you're getting the 540 size and not the 380 size, which is too small for the TL01. Edit: Oh, and make sure it's a genuine article. ebay has a few sellers that are peddling imitation Sport Tuned motors that are barely faster than the standard silvercans.
  12. Welcome to the forum, and to the hobby! I agree with what's been mentioned so far, and also suggest that of the 3 buggies you mentioned, the Terra Scorcher is most likely to fit your requirements. If I may ask, why have you limited your options to those 3 buggies in particular? I know there are others in stock currently.
  13. Working on the TC01. I had to stop at the dampers because I have encountered some hop-up clashing. The YR big-bore dampers only come with 5.8mm ends, and my fancy T-works titanium ball ends are the standard Tamiya 5mm size. I am not removing the Ti balls, so I'll just have to find some nice dampers that fit properly. Also, I got Eagle Racing alu suspension arms and knuckles, which I found completely unusable. First, the lower arms don't hold the droop screws. Second, the upper arms replace the Ti balls I installed with captured balls of their own, so no. Finally, the knuckles rub against the CVD circlip thingies that hold the CVD shafts together, so also no. I just threw the whole Eagle Racing set away. Other than that, pretty nice build so far lol. I've got it set up to accept a touring car body, because I'm not touching the formula E body with a 10-foot pole; too much work and I WILL mess it up.
  14. First of all I appreciate the heads-up. Just a bit of clarification: The poster of the image cleared it with me, so it's used with permission. And also, I already received mine. In fact that picture is my kit on my guest room floor in front of my cupboard lol.
  15. The RZ has laydown brushes, but the specs of all 3 are very close, to the point of being considered similar enough for me. The dust cover is meant to be used with cars that have motors sticking out of the body, much like the Hotshot or the DT03, so there should be enough airflow to negate the effect of the cover while still providing some protection against dust and dirt.
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