DeadMeat666

2.5mm is the most common size for an M3 tap.

I just took a peak at the aforementioned post (July 2020), and I'm the only one who replied to the OP on that thread. Was my reply offensive? I certainly didn't mean it to be.

As fas as I recall, the TT02B comes with plastic drive cups that are bigger, and suited to run with the plastic dogbones. Your TT02B seems to have metal drive cups; perhaps you could just upgrade to metal CVDs and that would fix your issue?

I would imagine this would be somewhat pointless for those of us who live in places where the ambient temperature far exceeds 38 degrees to begin with lol. Besides, how much amperage would such a fan draw anyway? I can't imagine it will add any appreciable amount to the runtime. Also, for motors that do get quite hot, I suppose the cooler they are to start with, the longer they'd run at efficiency, so having a fan stop cooling because the motor is 'cool enough' would be counterintuitive no? I'd want the motor to be as cool as possible at all times, the cooler the better.

While both Deans and XT60 would work fine (to answer the OP's original question), XT60s are probably going to be better than the Deans in all aspects except connector size. Speaking as a person who has Deans connectors on all my cars.

That looks to be a sledge hammer, and it's made for demolition, and breaking rocks.

I want to thank everyone for their responses/takes on the matter, it's really appreciated. It's also good to know that this kind of thing is not so uncommon. To answer some of the questions that were asked (in no particular order because I'm not that organized): 1. I'm not intending on selling anything at the moment. Half because I'm blessed enough to be financially stable right now, and half because shipping from where I am would make it both impractical and expensive to sell things, so as long as I have room for it, it's staying. 2. I don't THINK I'm having a mid-life crisis, but I could be wrong. Nothing else has changed in my life: still go to work, regularly go to the gym, etc. 3. I got back into the hobby around Dec 2019, before the 'Rona was even a thing, but I don't doubt that the pandemic gave me a lot more free time trapped at home, and fueled my resurgence through online purchases. For a while I was literally making an online order EVERY DAY. I've ordered nothing in the past 3 months; haven't even e-window shopped. 4. I guesstimate that around USD 30k have been spent since Dec 2019, so not a little (for 2 years), but not a mortgage either. But I'm sure you can see what I mean when I say to myself "did I really need to?" 5. Burn-out is probably what happened, so I'll just ride it out for now, and see how I feel as the months drag on. Any advice on how to store 20 mostly-built kits in such a way so as they don't deteriorate? I've already taken all their wheels off so they don't develop flat spots.

Hey all, Over the past 2 months, something very strange (to me) has happened: I've completely lost all interest in RC as a hobby, and it's frustrating me to no end. The feeling first started the moment I received the 934 45th edition; I just put it away in my closet and went on with life. Now, every time I find some free time, I stay away from the hobby like it's the plague. Reasons I find this frustrating: 1. I really like the community here, and I like contributing, but without actively engaging in the hobby, there will gradually be less and less reason to check up on this forum. 2. I have amassed a collection of (in my opinion) very nice RCs, some of which remain NIB even though I was very excited to build them before, but not so anymore. (Egress, TF Evo, Dynablaster, 934, etc) 3. I now feel like this whole exercise was a collosal waste of funds that I could've used elsewhere. I now look at my "closet of adventures" (with all the kits in it) with total confusion and regret. I'm not necessarily looking for validation, but it would be nice to know if something like this has happened to any of you before, and how did you handle it?

I read that in a Sean Connery accent . Go over it again carefully and you'll know why lol. Back on topic though, I also use a cheap-n-cheerful 60w iron and it serves me just fine, even for soldering wires onto motor tabs.

13awg is probably the optimum wire for 1/10 scale rc, pretty much able to handle 99% of situations up to 3S. For the rest of us civilians, 14awg is perfectly fine for 95% of applications. 12awg is slight overkill in my humble opinion, unless it's a 10,000+kv motor and a monster amp to match. Short answer: yes, 14awg is enough.

My OCD sense tingles every time you call that RZ motor "BZ" The Hotshot seems like a great kit to build, and I almost feel like I missed out on some of the magic by building a Super Hotshot instead. The beauty of this forum is that now I can enjoy a Hotshot build vicariously by reading this thread Very clean job so far!

Actually I do, I just forgot that I did lol. I bought one used from eBay a couple months ago, but I haven't gotten around to using it yet.

Prepare to be disappointed. The TT02 chassis is not designed to be run in RWD only, so you'll mostly be doing donuts*. In fact it's quite difficult to drive any 1/10 RC road car in RWD, but those that are designed to do so have more weight on the driven wheels. Even the M08 is quite a handful unless you're a. really good, and b. on a high-traction surface like carpet. The instant torque that electric motors have combined with the loss of braking in the front wheels conspire to make RWD road cars very frustrating to keep on track.** * Source: personal experience from trying it myself. ** I have an M02, and M06, and an M08, which are all RWD platforms.

Wouldn't that only be true if the driveshaft was in full contact with both drive-cups at all times? As far as I'm aware, driveshafts in the TT01, TT02, or any shaft-driven RC should have some (axial) play in them, to account for chassis flex, which is why there are little foam pieces, or springs, or even just a small space between the driveshaft and each of the front and rear drive cups. So in practice, there is similar axial force on the driveshaft in 2WD than there naturally is in 4WD 'mode'.

1000% And I can understand the confusion; I initially thought that the esc, which powers the receiver, would naturally belong on channel 1, but it doesn't. Channel 1 in most (if not all) ground receivers is meant for steering, and channel 2 is meant for the speed control unit.