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Everything posted by DeadMeat666

  1. These 4 (ok 5, but the 5th one is not out of its box yet) arrived all through last week, and here they are in their most likely build order:
  2. Great post, and very good resto job there! Out of curiosity, since this is an original Vanquish, and it had clearly been used in the past, did you find that the infamous G part was cracked anywhere when you disassembled the buggy? Part B of the question: Did you originally use any locktite around that area when you first built it? Was there any residue when you disassembled it? I'm developing a theory and a real-life case like yours would help me prove or disprove it.
  3. Slightly off-topic, but since this topic is closed for the most part, would you mind showing us your ride @DPR250R? I happen to be a fan of how the Dark Impact looks, so I'd like to see what you did with yours.
  4. Then there MUST be something wrong with the setup. The Top Force can handle a lot more than a Sport Tuned. Getting a steel gearset made without first identifying what's breaking the plastic gears will just transfer the force somewhere else causing breakage there instead. Check your pinion mesh, and check that the rear gearbox cover is not loose and jamming the gears together on acceleration/deceleration.
  5. To my knowledge, motors do not have thermal protection. They'd rather just heatsoak and then burn out lol. What's likely happening is that your HW1060 is going into limp mode, which is apparently quite a common issue. I leave it to others on here with more experience to give you options as to what you can do about it. I believe installing a capacitor is one of the possible solutions, but I'm not speaking from first hand experience.
  6. I had always wondered if it was a good idea to put 'open can' brushless motors in offroad vehicles. Seems like the dust would eat them alive in no time, but I may be wrong. At least in that regard the Tamiya motors are relatively protected against the elements with their fully covered cans. The Surpass Rocket v3 is pretty open from the front, and the v4 is just wide open everywhere (for example). Does that make a difference at all?
  7. https://drivetribe.com/p/rarest-of-the-rarest-the-most-expensive-Qm1UVh7AT76Dmk_tX7V5_Q?iid=QIl1eJqGSTC08RgVgxX-gg ?
  8. Ha ha That is so me right now! For what it's worth, I'm still here, albeit much less active than before. But that's mostly because I'm undergoing a major change in life that's keeping me away from RC entirely. I know this post came out of nowhere, but I figured I'd take this chance to explain what 'happened' to me. I still visit TC daily, but it's mostly as a lurker until I regain stability and get back into the groove. Cheers guys,
  9. How much did you need to lengthen your servo cable?
  10. Seeing an RR legend on an FF03 chassis just blows so many fuses for me.
  11. If mine turns out half as good as yours has, I'd call it a win .
  12. Here's a picture of my current daily driver: ...nothing. I walk to work, I walk to the gym, I walk to nearby restaurants, and I walk to the beach, so I don't need a car.
  13. Welcome to the T club. Literally nobody calls it that, I just came up with it lol. Check out the XV01, it seems to tick all your boxes, so to speak. Great build too!
  14. Yes. Also if you don't mind buying from abroad, RCmart usually carries a range of M-chassis size bodies.
  15. Allow me to save Bugsy from total destruction: It's an aerodynamics problem. If you want Bugsy to go fast without flying, you need to reduce the amount of air going under it and use the air that's going over it to push it down. The video you shared clearly shows that the flying brick has an approximate 'lift-off velocity' when it's going a certain speed, so I put my money on aero.
  16. Thanks for sharing! I'm sure it was definitely fun to try making a speedrun Blackfoot, and you are clearly aware of the humor in the name "flying brick" since bricks don't fly, so arguably you just proved a point that didn't need proving So what's next? Why don't you build a scale pirate ship and see if it can take off? You can call it the "Flying Dutchman"
  17. They come in the kit for the fronts. The idea is to use a second set for the rear instead of the kit-provided half-metal/half-plastic ones.
  18. Given the placement of the motor being RIGHT behind one of the driven wheels, I suspect the endbell will get VERY dirty VERY quickly. Do you have any plans in mind on how to avoid this? Or will this not be a runner? Great thread btw, keep it up!
  19. But but... it has the upgrade kit...! Jokes aside, this seller is most definitely not alone. Prices are going crazy these days as demand skyrockets above supply, specifically for Tamiya kits. There's a seller looking for $5,500 for an NIB Egress. Just sayin...
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