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DeadMeat666

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Everything posted by DeadMeat666

  1. I've been toying around with adding yet another buggy to my already ridiculously large (to me) collection, but I'm faced with a dilemma. I can either get an Avante 2011, or a VQS with a bunch of hopups (Aluminum shock mounts, hubs, high capacity shock set, etc), and these two options come to around USD 15 of each other in cost, so very much similar. If I intend to actually use it, is that Avante really that pants to drive? Shall I just bite the bullet and get a VQS? I know it's my choice/my money/etc, but I would like feedback from members who have one or both of these to help me get as much info as possible before making my decision. Also yes, I will eventually buy both (as we all do), but which one should take priority? Edit: I already have an Egress that I haven't built yet, and I enjoy building a little more than I enjoy driving. Is the Egress more similar to the Avante in the build process or the VQS?
  2. I had a similar problem with my rere Fire Dragon, and apparently it's common. It seems that the bevel gear moulds are not as good as they used to be, and the rere bevel gears are not shaped correctly or have bumps/burrs on the teeth. I fixed it by sourcing vintage bevel gears (not the most economical or creative solution I know); resolved the issue entirely.
  3. Welcome to the (literal) club! We're very glad to have you with us. What's a "Blazing Blazer"? Never heard of it.
  4. Indeed. Mainly, the blue set is made for building RC's There's really no point in getting the red set if RC is what you'll be using it for. Edit: In an effort to stay on topic for the original poster, I would strongly recommend you research the steering through-bolt mod for the TT02B chassis. The steering cranks have a habit of wobbling loose after a while, and this completely eliminates the problem. In a nutshell, you put 2 long screws through the chassis fastened with a 3mm locknut at the other end so that the steering arms stay put. This works best if your steering is ball-raced.
  5. Just weighing in from my research and experience on the topic: 4WD cars/trucks/buggies must have the same rolling radius on all tires. Most of them do not have a center diff and running different diameters will eventually break the drivetrain. Most 4WD buggies have more weight bias to the rear, and hence need more grip in the rear to have balanced handling (no oversteer). This is why you see narrower fronts on modern 4WD buggies. For example, the Avante was first released with equal width tires front and back, which gave it too much grip in the front and resulted in oversteer from losing the rear end on turns. The Egress and Vanquish later improved upon this by having narrower tires in the front, leading to more neutral handling.
  6. I'd recommend you store your RCs in a cigar humidor for optimum results. If by the off-chance that you don't have one, or it's not big enough, at least keep the kits indoors when it gets too cold. I don't think 35C heat will affect the plastics much if at all. That's like our springtime over here lol. As long as they're not being exposed to UV rays from direct sunlight that is. Personally I keep all my kits behind closed cupboards in the guest room, which is air-conditioned year-round. Not great as a display, but probably the best climate for preservation. Unless you have mouldy cupboards. Does that answer your question? I jumped around so much I lost track
  7. For bashing duty, the MST TCR (for touring cars) and TCR-M (for M Chassis) are probably your best bet. They have multiple drives and motor placements, and aren't very expensive. Complaints I've heard from other forums on these chassis (plural?) are that they tend to flex a bit, and also that the suspension is more Formula-like than touring car-like. They have little kingpin springs and non-moving suspension arms. That won't matter if you'll be bashing I guess.
  8. Work continues on the TB Evo 7. I'm taking it real slow, mostly because I'm so busy with RL these days, but the reason I give myself is that I want to enjoy it as much as possible lol. I'm undecided on the body for this; it's either going to be the Carisma Audi R8 LM body, the vintage Tamiya Porche GT1 LeMans body I recently acquired (but that is supposed to go on an F103LM chassis AFAIK, so I don't know if it'll drop in), or a Tamiya Nissan GTR R34 body which will have light buckets and a transparent hood.
  9. Fantastic post. I've always defined "good times" to be the following: 1. Having less worries than my mind can handle 2. Earning more money than my lifestyle needs I am very thankful that the above two conditions are currently being met, and every day I remind myself that THESE are good times for me, and that I should cherish each and every second. After all, the only constant in life is change. Thank you, @Saito2, for reminding me once more.
  10. Here's mine, taken at this very moment. Not a great picture but you get the idea. On the far left is the PC, and on the far right is the 'builder's desk'. In between inside the six drawers are literally 100s of hop-ups. If you look really closely @Juhunio's station is featured on my screen lol.
  11. I, for one, welcome our new overlords. Questionable naming aside, it's great to see that Tamiya is willing to break out of its doomed cycle of re-re-releases and start the creative juices going with all-new models, and ones that don't look like the competition to boot. More variety is always good, and as usual, customers will ultimately vote with their wallets. One day we will no longer be here, and the rereleases will lose a lot of their attractiveness to buyers without the nostalgia factor. They need new stuff to sell.
  12. Afternoon Tom. From my (really long ago) experience with Tamiya static model paints (for which TS was designed for), I'd venture to say that TS-30 Silver Leaf would be the closest possible match to PS-41 Bright Silver. That being said, My recommendation would be to use PS paint on the parts you want to match, as it is flexible and resists chipping better than TS paint. TS as mentioned before is designed for smaller static models, and is quite thin/brittle, with more of a focus on preserving fine detail and achieving a smoother finish, rather than durability.
  13. I know exactly what you mean. I often look at these brushless motors that have "C" shaped solder tabs and wonder what is the proper way to solder wires to them. Would you mind sharing a pic and/or description of how you redid them to ensure a strong joint?
  14. The Hotshot looks a lot better in white than I had imagined. Good job!
  15. Something I keep telling the wife: Buying something on discount that we didn't need to begin with is not "saving money". It's most definitely not "making money" either I justify my hobby by constantly reminding myself that I spend less than she does. That way she's happy, I'm happy, although my bank balance is crying LOL.
  16. Please, let's not The majority of my Tamiya builds are hopped up to the bunny ears. And by "most hopped up", do you mean in absolute terms, or compared to the price of the kit? Because say USD300 on hopups for a 500 dollar kit isn't really much compared to a much cheaper kit having the same cost in hopups, or at least that's what I tell myself.
  17. @speedy_w_beans what, no Dynas? Pshhhhhhh Jokes aside, that list is very impressive. Is the DB01RR NIB? Asking for a friend lol.
  18. Perfect, just what I was looking for. LRP 19 turn double ordered. Now we wait...
  19. Tamiyabase lists this motor as "fixed timing" though. I'm looking for a motor that has variable timing.
  20. Totally not what I meant but thanks for the heads up! I guess Reedy isn't as up-market as I'd assumed.
  21. Thanks for the tip @TurnipJF, it turns out I'd already ordered one of those and it's in the mail. Good to know I didn't waste money on it. That's assuming that this whole hobby isn't a giant waste of money of course . Honestly, I was hoping that I could stick to well-known name brand (Tamiya, Kyosho, Reedy, LRP, etc) since my M02 is somewhat special (to me anyway). Are there no affordable and available Tamiya motors that have adjustable timing?
  22. I have an M02, and unbeknowest to me, since the M02 is simply an M01 that runs backwards more or less, this means that pretty much anything past a silver can will have its timing reversed compared to the forward direction of the car, since the motor essentially runs backwards. I'd like to know what adjustable timing motors would be suitable for an M02. I currently have a sport-tuned in there that makes it run better backwards than forwards lol. I'd like a motor that is: 1. Pretty nice looking if possible 2. Not overly bonkers powerwise (it's just an M02 after all!) 3. Available online these days (no rocking horse poo or hen's teeth please ) 4. Not ridiculously priced 5. Brushed and most importantly: 6. Can have its timing turned backwards without having to mod it, or break off tabs or whatever Any suggestions?
  23. To stay on topic, I'll give my 3 first. I'm assuming the question is "what 3 Tamiyas must every Tamiya die-hard own": 4wd buggy: Egress OR Top Force 2wd buggy: SRB chassis car (they're just so iconic "Tamiya") Monster Truck: Bruiser/Moutaineer Edit: It really seems like I need to get me a Bruiser already. Several members here have put it on the list, including me lol. Now on to another thing: False economy? Please explain.
  24. I intend to run it outside, but I haven't had the chance yet. I've only run it indoors so far.
  25. Your job is the perfect icebreaker at gatherings I bet. If it's the right horse I have in mind lol.
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