•Axle
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Posts posted by •Axle
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I do like the idea of shifting everything that can be into click lid tupperware box and mounting that on top of the chassis, enough air could provide buoyancy as well.
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Has anyone ever come across something like this but for a motor? It attaches to the end of a Dremel and allows you to use a thinner grip. I was thinking about something like this to remount the motor to a more desirable location on a chassis.
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Thanks for you insight into crawling, very useful.
I’m unsure of a chassis as of yet, I could make a non conventional crawler / trail runner out of stuff I already I have, I’m not really wanting to drive controlled over large rocks.
It’s got to be able to take a few unplanned large waves, so probably yes be capable of fully going underwater.
Going to do my homework of ladderframe chassis and motors then, thanks!
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I realise that electronics, bearings, certain metals and any kind of water are not the best of friends, but I have had an idea in my head for a very long time as I like amphibious vehicles.
My question to you is what would it take to have a hassle free crawler that could take a carefree dip at my local beach?
I’m thinking;
• Full ceramic bearings, including brushless motor bearings. Should I worry about impacts if the RC is going slowly?
• Titanium screws all round.
• Sealing up the chassis with silicone, all holes including around the motor?
• Marine grease where drive shaft cups come out.
• Some sort of weight attached to the very bottom keeping the vehicle upright in water.
• Are ESCs fully submersible?
• What do people do about batteries?
The rig will obviously not be maintenance free, but there must be a lot of things that can be done to reduce the impact of saltwater.
Cheers,
Al
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I did a little test this evening on some parts that I never use, my usual way is to just screw a machine screw directly in, when screwing and unscrewing I listen out for that audible click, unscrewing before screwing back in. So I’ve tapped which indeed does go in nicely, but I’ve also cracked open the helicoils I bought a while ago and very much like the firm positive feel it has, only thing is I’m finding is keeping them in the same plastic when unwinding, broken off that little tab too when securing them in.
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Apologies to add to this, would anyone know the specific size of a 5x11x4 bearing ball? and has anyone found a supplier of ptfe bearing cages?
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Just now, Carmine A said:
Not to sound simple..... But in that case, GET the Big Bores! 😊 You'll gain a marginal improvement with the BB Shocks, but NO disadvantages. (Unless the actual Body diameter doesn't fit in the location you need it too.) That's nearly unlikely though.
Oh I realise this, I’m just thinking now I should spray them black to de-bling them!
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Also, what if you wanted a certain length and the only shock style they do is ‘big bore’?
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I’ve personally had a few kits from these guys, haven’t had a problem myself with the screws and they even made up a screw kit for me that wasn’t on their system, I just asked.
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@Bwaaatch So I’ve just found out about gyros and I’ve noticed others talking about them in the past on here after searching, it’s basically a little box which sits between your steering servo and receiver and automatically turns your wheels stopping it veering off, here’s Tomley RC’s video;
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Looking awesome! @Bwaaatch Love the stance on yours, I’ve found the Pro-Line tire glue with the nice nozzles pretty good, I haven’t tried much though to be honest and that stuff has got expensive all of a sudden on Amazon.
Concerning the wheels coming off of the axle, are you using alloy 12mm hexes? I found the plastic ones pretty loose, other than that do them up tight, try not to crack the plastic hex if installed. Someone here may have knowledge of shimming on plastic parts, I’m using the Yeah Racing alloy kit.
I’ve just bought £20 gyro, I’m thinking it might help your car become a little more predictable, I’m still trying to get it tuned, it feels like my wheels are over compensating when I get some speed up.
What kv motor did you go with??
Brilliant! 😃
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So it turns out I’m more than happy with the way the 4000kv motor works with the 60A esc, the new tires work great. I’m parking it here. With smaller diameter wheels I could potentially fit a longer more powerful motor without steering problems.
Current setup is a HW Max10 60A esc with a 3652 4000kv motor, 2s lipo.
3300kv – Higher torque with lots of bucking even in sandy situations.
4000kv – Seems to be a nice balance of torque and top end on sand and off road.
Thanks for the help.
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@Why me? yes, that’s the one it looks pretty good from above, just a little intimidating when you’re standing in the middle on your own! 😂
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@Why me? – Walking distance I’m about 10 minutes from Brighton hospital, the bottom of our road is an industrial estate. I’m walking around the race course each day, are you quite near?
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Thanks so much for the informative answers @Simon L & @Mad Ax, initially I looked at the Iconic meets with wide eyes and thought it might just be happening again, more relaxed meets off-road courses looks ace to me, something I wanted to do as a kid. I’m desperate for some bashing with others, and if that means buying a certain chassis I’d do it. I’m in Brighton, so I have Adur Model Car Club indoors and off-road but as with what’s been said they want everyone to buy into Losi etc, which I’m not that interested in, they look great flying around the track but it doesn’t appeal to me.
As you were saying – the Woods, I’ve been doing a daily hours walk with my daughter on and off my shoulders and treating the RC as a dog, this has been fun but looking for more.
Funnily enough while getting bored on my own walking I scouted out the local dodgy areas and found a motocross type track that’s been made up, although being so close to the main road and paths it felt trés dodge as there’s quite high banks for grass anyone could be hiding behind, little nooks that sort of thing.
In general I think I’m wanting a few more RC buggies around for a bash.
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Swapped out the 3300kv for a 4000kv, added some wheel spacers which I’m unsure of but we’ll see what happens when it happens, took it out with the new Prolines on. Got rid of the instant bucking and now has enough momentum with grippy tires to pull out of tricky spots in sandy holes, I like the top end speed and I don’t have to hammer the trigger, it’s got a bit extra when I want it. Overall it’s another step in the right direction, just found out about gyro boxes and ordered one to see what it’s about.
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@moffman – As soon as I see that sort of behaviour I won’t bid, unless I feel it’s still a reasonable price.
I cannot see any point in bidding until the very last moments anyway... I’m watching something at the moment that’s got re-listed several times after a bidding war, very suspicious 🧐
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So if events even take place to the same capacity after this whole debacle, what would you recommend cars and class, how many races do people usually participate in and what things are usually allowed to be done to the kits?
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Fitting some wheel wideners tomorrow, but had a run with these and they’ve got this fantastic gyroscopic effect when spinning at high speed, you can hit a jump at a funny angle fast and car doesn’t move around as much.
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Well I’m taking baby steps to get what I want to achieve, today from Modelsport a 4000kv 3652 motor is turning up which is a direct replacement of what’s already there. Also x4 of those Badlands tires preinstalled on the rims, currently have aluminium replica Lunchbox rims with the V tread tires. I’m hoping the badlands to be lighter and to have less contact with tarmac, the 4000kv acceleration sweet-spot to be a greater range to the 3300kv, after that I’m buying a 3s battery, and then the 120A esc.
I really want to fit a 3660 motor which has better torque and braking power, I just want to see the clearance with the tires first.
Maybe it’s not having all 4 wheels spinning that I’m after, 3300kv is brilliant but far too stable, I’m after a bit of madness and that tipping point of it being uncontrollable at points but not so much that it’s not enjoyable.
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I find it’s the most nostalgic thing about a Nikko RC I find, it’s the kind of smell that instantly takes me back to being 5 years old. Also the sound of the arial, like a wind chime when you’re trying to get the lid of the box back on.
What is that smell?
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1) Buying the kits – Having a child.
2) Building the kits – Covid.
I have throughly enjoyed the learning and the building, and having the time.
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This is now solved. It took around 30mins of internet searching and I found what I was looking for. ☺️
Does anyone in the UK have a WR01 or chassis parts that they would like sell cheapish? I have a long Willy project I would like to fulfil 😅
Not looking for pristine, looking for reasonable.
(It’s not the wrong website).
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21 hours ago, BP2411 said:
WW2 is the only car I ever sold, I never had loads of cars but I sold it (well actually swapped for an N64 😂), it was also only my second brand new car (mad bull was my first, midnight pumpkin metallic special was my third and that was very recently purchased after getting back into the hobby) and I regret it so much, I think my kids would've loved it, they're the reason I got back into the hobby after they found my small collection (mad bull, thunder dragon, TL01, FF02) I ended up buying them a mad bull each on an ebay bargain and added the midnight pumpkin to maybe fill the WW2 shaped hole in my heart 💔, back to the point, I loved it, I'm sure you could back flip it but I just wanted to go fast back then and someone wanted my willy (I had to say it 😂) and I wanted an N64.
I wonder if there’s someone on a Nintendo forum saying the same thing about an N64...
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Saltwater crawler.
in Monster Trucks, 4x4, Wheelie Rigs and Crawlers
Posted
Fantastic idea, thank you! This is it, I know what I would like to do but not mechanically minded enough to get there without making a Homer-mobile.