•Axle
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Posts posted by •Axle
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Also posts on chassis WR-02, not everyone loves willy though...
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2 hours ago, Dakratfink said:
If you wanted to revert to plastic , you could put on Comical Buggy arms with your longer shocks. I believe they are longer and should give more travel with 80mm shocks
Thanks for this, will have a look and add it to my RcMart order before I commit.
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Thanks for the info chaps, I’m planning on buying another motor and esc combo and most likely 4000kv+ range for a new build, before that I’m going to buy my second lipo, a 3s with my current 60A esc 3300kv setup.
I look at all RCs around and probably my ideal setup would be a Traxxas STC type thing, but then I want it to be a Tamiya and I want it to look comical, and I can make this thing the way I want it. Without the huge jumping ability, it can currently do things that I’m not used to – speed on long grass and hill climbing, I’m after that extra ounce of top end and more instant on.
Either way I’m going to stick a 120A esc and motor combo in!
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43 minutes ago, KEV THE REV said:
Awesome !! . Could end up like this though
I’m thinking less burnt rubber and more flying debris, the kv of the motor I’m presuming is going to play a big role too, 3300kv is really nice, just stops short on the range, seems to be good for jumping instantly over things.
Also thinking of Proline Badlands tires with the rims.
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Hi all,
I currently have a HW Max10 60A esc with a 3300kv brushless fitted in my Tamiya, has anyone got an idea of how the Max10 SCT 120A would differ in performance?
Ideally I would like it so powerful at the wheels that it would just spin on all 4 before getting grip on tarmac, cutting out the wheelie, I'm thinking of going to 4000kv also, 2s & 3s.
It's on lunchbox wheels and tires, your knowledge is greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Axle
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White with the outer edge painted orange.
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52 minutes ago, J@mes said:
I figure the way things are going I’ll be there soon enough. shelfer runner NiB & I haven’t worked out what the 4th ones for, spares is my best guess.
Shelfer / standard runner / hop-up runner / NIB?
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First trip to the beach today (pebbles). The front bumper has been definitely seen some action now and the rear alloy arms have been kissed by a few stones. Fantastic bobbing action, really need a Go Pro or something, the GF01 kitted out has become a very good everyday runner. 👍
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I’m planning to get some custom shock towers from these guys, not too sure of their prices;
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New to the gif game.
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I have no idea what one of these looks like steering setup wise, but I can tell you what I did with mine to stop steering issues. I kept waggling the wheels back and forth by hand and isolated where the play was coming from, for me it was a ‘steering arm’ that sat between the servo turnbuckle and the steering turnbuckle themselves, managed to get in a few 0.2 shims in there and reduced the play considerably, and removed the servo saver!
I haven’t had the servo go on me yet.
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When you’ve committed yourself to replace everything you can 😂.
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Not too sure about pro tips, thought about it over PG Tips – polishing shock springs is a pain in the bottom...
Must have been done before!
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I wanted a nice looking stick transmitter a while ago, had money before the Fine Spec was announced. Got a Tamiya Attack 4YWD, not necessarily great but looked good to me. Presuming it was a rebranded Futaba 4YWD Attack, only 4 channels.
Probably do a lot less than others for the money...
Some like them and some absolutely hate them, very big in the hands.
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Ultrasonic cleaning everything Clod...
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Looking really smart! Definitely something I’d like to do – my wife says it’s creepy 🤣, I like the idea seeing where I’m going from a far.
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33 minutes ago, Finnsllc said:
well if u left it in the loft, u gotta expect to have some damage. hot and cold humidity, freezing extreme summer heat....
Very true! 👍
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6 hours ago, Tamiyabigstuff said:
How bad are they ?
If it is just looks you are concerned about and the tyres have not been glued on to the rims maybe swap them round if the inner sidewalls are not so perished so the better loking sidewall is then on the outside.
Have heard that silicone spray can improve the look and restore some flexibility to the rubber.
Also consider making some thicker foam inserts to help the tyre maintain profile when running it.
Got a feeling replacements are gonna lighten your wallet by north of £60 for a set of 4.
Thanks for this, yes they’re pretty bad and you can feel where they fold easier and ready to go, I’ll just bin the two that are gone and I’ll replace them with Prolines for now.
Very true on the silicone spray, I’ve used silicone oil on tacky speaker cones to bring them back and works a treat.
I’m going to get it running with the electrics I put in there from 20 years ago, I’m not worried about speed, it’s going to poodle around in the park, a bit of fun for the kids.
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After retrieving a Clodbuster from the loft I have noticed that two of the four tires have perished sidewalls, is there any way to save the tires or do I just chuck them and move on?
If I’m chucking them has anyone got a link for reasonably priced tires and foam inserts?
Thanks,
Ax
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Started cleaning up the Clod Buster, it’s looking much happier and have fallen in love with it again, looking for x4 new tires, doesn’t look like it’s leaving... 🤷🏻♂️
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Found my Clodbuster in the loft, it’s about time she went, how do people like them, cleaned up or left with the dirt on?
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I have little knowledge of servos, I’m slightly concerned why no one has mentioned them. A couple of years ago I bought X4 DS3218 off of AliExpress for £34, they say they’re waterproof metal geared 20kg digital servos, only used two so far and I’ve had no issues and do not use a servo saver.
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Hi Hallamnet,
Welcome to the forum, the FPV camera sounds very interesting indeed, I’d be interested to see more of this as I’ve had a little look myself. The GF-01 seems to be a very sturdy platform, if you want more from it I would personally start with adding bearings throughout with a small children’s brush ‘paint’ a thin coating of Tamiya ceramic grease to all plastic gears, double check diffs are working nicely, add a steel pinion instead of the butter soft standard 18t one, you can go 18t or 20t and metal wheel hex adapters for wheels.
After that you could go further with steering, it’s up to you...
Here is a good thread to follow as I’ve just added a Hobbywing Max10 3300kv combo and very please with it and others are taking things further with the WR-02, the rear wheeled version.
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@Saito2 – There no need for an apology, I didn’t know what I was asking, I’ve seen them called crush sleeve somewhere but know I now they’re also called crush tubes... I’ve enjoyed the discussion and the outcome was I managed to achieve what I set out and not accept the wheel wobble, not destroy another 8 bearings instantly and not put the shims away in a place where I cannot see them.
Now I need to somehow shim a new gearbox / chassis that’s screwed all round, how am I going to check play in that?! I’m thinking a long piece of bent wire through the motor hole pushing a pulling, checking each gear individually...
Thank you @Saito2 , @Lee76 & @Matty36 for your time and effort 👍
Lapping gears advice please...
in Build Tips and Techniques
Posted
@nowinaminute
Fantastic advice, thank you for sharing that.