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About foz75

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  1. Thanks for all the info! I think I will get a set of alloy C hubs, and leave all other parts of as original. I only need to replace the C hubs anyway And why is it that the majority of alloy parts are that hideous blue colour?
  2. The general rule is you get what you pay for, I know. With shocks there are moving parts, seals, etc and cheap ones are likely to be worse than the standard Tamiya CVAs. But what about "solid" parts? More specifically in my case, CC-01 C hubs? I need a new set, and can either get an original parts tree, or alloy "upgrades" in either expensive or cheap versions... are the cheap ebay ones to be avoided? or are they good enough? strength, tolerances, size, etc? a quick ebay search has found just the C hubs for about 6 quid, or even a full set of C hubs, lower wishbones, knuckles, drive shafts and hinge pins for less than 20 quid posted. Anyone any experience with these? bargain, or to be avoided?
  3. I like it! Thought about white for mine but wasn't convinced, yours looks great though, matching body and wheels look great!
  4. the only stickers I have for the lights are the BL ones in the kit... would like something different but these are better than nothing for now The only paint on there is the PS41bright silver, everything else is stickers (cheap flag stickers from ebay, nothing special). And yes, I need a steel spur but I won't be running it too much or too hard Silver-can, I'm also NE england - any recommendations for places to drive? outdoor dirt circuits, or even just a good area for bashing about? I'm not interested in carpet tracks - these are meant for proper dirt! thanks!
  5. I started this a year ago, but what with being away, covid, stripping the chassis holes and waiting for a new one, it's taken until now to finish. And I've just realised I've missed the number decals from the wing... I wanted to do something other than box art, but that tied in with the black and red of the chassis to avoid needing to paint the red parts. Only upgrades so far are full ball bearings, the wheels, and the colour. I might look for a different motor on black, which will fit in a bit better. I also need to swap the ESC battery connector for a deans so that I can hide the cable more easily.
  6. I built this last year, have never run it other than around the living room to see if it works (it does!), but time and funds are limited and I'm looking at other projects so it's up for sale. Body is painted in white undercoat then TS-92 metallic orange, wheels were undercoated and painted in TS-40 metallic black. Brand new Futaba servo was installed during build and is included. All bushes were substituted for bearings when I built it. Photos show the battery and receiver, but these are not included in the sale. Original good (not perfect, slight squash on one corner) box, instruction manual, decal sheet, any left over bits I have, etc, all included. I'm not sure on pricing so will say £150 posted but make me a reasonable offer. I will take some better pics in daylight asap! thanks
  7. OK, that's very helpful thanks! there is no mention of the type in the manuals so should be taken that they're 0.8 I guess. That fits with what the RCmart page says. Tamiyabase has the same part number for a 15T pinion as being correct for lots of different models, including the fox. I have no idea where I got the 0.6 idea from
  8. I thought I read that the hotshot uses a 0.6 mod pinion. But then looking on rcmart, under hotshot spares they show 0.8 mod pinions... and I can't find anything definite about the pinion type in a novafox either. is there anywhere that complies all the info on which pinion types are used by which car? I know the sizes of each because it states them in the manual, but it doesn't give part numbers for the sizes not included in the kit, so again it's a bit vague as to which one I actually need. Can anyone confirm the pinion type used in the hotshot and novafox, or point me to somewhere reliable that has the correct info? thanks
  9. Is there any difference between the tamiya thread tap and a generic steel thread tap set? Just wondering if there's anything that makes the cost difference worth it? more accurate? better quality? ease of use?
  10. I had that problem with my hotshot. Am still undecided whether to build the new chassis with self tappers, or tap the thread and use the machine screws... Am starting to lean more towards the second option. Once built I won't be running it loads or racing so shouldn't have the need to open the chassis very often.
  11. thanks for the replies. I already tried the "spot spritz" , but that just left an uneven surface where I didn't want it, and not enough coverage in the hardest to reach corners... I think i will continue with the brush technique, the trick seems to be adding a little bit and then waiting a very long time for it to dry. If I try to add more after only an hour or so, it just seems to "melt" the previous attempt and smear the paint around. If I can get even enough coverage, I will not do a white undercoat and just leave as is. it doesn't look too bad, but there are lots of weak spots seen when holding up to a light source, and I think if I did the white undercoat it would be noticeable and blotchy. The other option would be an aftermarket or other wing with no hidden corners, but I would prefer to keep the correct wing.
  12. Any tips for painting hard to reach places where spray won't reach? Specifically, the side panels on a hotshot wing. There's not enough space to get good coverage with the spray, and while spraying and then spreading with a brush is helping, it's not great. I wouldn't be too worried but I want to back the colour coat with white, and don't want the body and wing to have a different shade. Is my only option to persevere with the spray and brush method?
  13. Ok, so a new chassis and self tapping screws it is then! Tapping then machine screws might be ok, I think a self tap is likely to bite a bit better and leave more material between threads... Thanks for the help!
  14. Thanks, that explanation sounds logical. Strange though, that they would design it like that, on the very to screws that are most likely to be used... So, how to remove the ones that are stuck? And is there an alternative that will avoid this happening again?
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